*  — 

LEWIS  AND   CLARKE'S 


TO    THE 


ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

In  %  TataxB  1804,-5,~6; 


AS   RELATED   BY 

PATRICK      G  A  SS  , 

ONE   OF   THE   OFFICERS   IN   THE  EXPEDITION. 

New  Edition  with  Numerous  Engravings, 


PUBLISHED  BY  ELLS,  CLAFLIN?  &  CO. 


#«= 


Entered  according  to  act  of  Congress  by 

a««5€c:at^^«k_Jcr'jBL-,-jB:j^Kr9« 
In, the  year    1846,  in  the  District  Court  of  Ohio. 


01 


OF  the  various  publications  which  unite  amusement  and  infor- 
mation, few  can  be  justly  held  in  higher  estimation  than  the 
Journals  and  Narratives  of  Travelers  and  Voyagers;  and  in  our 
highly  favored  country,  the  diffusion  of  general  knowledge,  the 
enterprizing  spirit  of  the  people,  their  commercial  pursuits  and 
habits  of  emigration,  render  such  works  particularly  valuable  and 
interesting;  while  the  vigorous  and  unrestrained  mind  of  the  free 
American,  by  amplifying  and  embellishing  the  scenes  presented 
to  its  view,  enjoys  the  choicest  luxuries  of  the  entertainment  they 
are  calculated  to  afford.  If  it  is  conceded  that  discoveries  made  in 
North  America  are  more  important  to  the  people  of  the  United 
States  than  those  made  elsewhere,  it  will  not  be  difficult  to  shew 
that  none  could  have  been  made  of  so  much  importance  to  them 
in  any  part  of  the  world  as  in  the  large  tracts  of  country  through 
which  the  late  expedition,  under  the  command  of  Captain  Lewis 
and  Captain  Clarke,  passed.  For,  if  we  take  a  view  of  the  different 


discoveries  and  settlements  previously  made,  we  will  find  that 
those  tracts  through  which  the  Missouri  and  Columbia  rivers  and 
their  branches  flow,  commonly  called  unknown  regions,  were  the 
only  parts  remaining  unexplored,  which  could  be  considered  valu- 
able. 

The  first  discovery  of  the  Western  World  by  Europeans  of 
which  we  have  any  authentic  accounts,  being  near  the  southern 
extremity  of  North  America,  drew,  as  might  be  expected,  their 
attention  to  that  quarter;  and  the  range  which  this  grand  discov- 
ery excited  for  other  enterprizes  of  the  same  nature,  the  avidity 
with  which  avarice  was  stimulated  to  seize  the  precious  metals, 
known  to  exist  in  those  parts,  the  means  held  out  for  gratifying 
ambition;  and  the  prospects  of  a  lucrative  commerce,  with  many 
other  objects  and  considerations  tended  largely  to  extend  them, 
while  the  diminution  of  the  Northern  Continent  to  a  narrow 
isthmus,  and  its  large  gulfs,  bays,  and  rivers,  furnished  and 
facilitated  the  means  of  exploring  it.  The  spirit  of  enterprize, 
however,  was  not  confined  to  the  southern  extremity;  but  extend- 
ing itself  to  the  climates  congenial  with  those  which  it  had  left, 
and  connecting  with  its  researches  the  planting  of  colonies,  im- 
portant discoveries  were  made  along  the  Atlantic  coasts.  In  the 
mean  time  the  project  of  discovering  a  north  west  passage  to  the 
East  Indies  led  the  boldest  naval  commanders  of  Europe  through 
the  inland  seas,  bays,  and  straits  of  the  north;  and  at  length  pro- 
duced surveys  of  the  shores  of  the  Pacific.  To  these  discoveries, 
and  those  occasionally  made  during  the  settlement  of  the  country 
within  the  limits  of  the  United  States  and  in  Canada,  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company,  though  not  famed  for  enterprize,  added  something 
to  the  stock  of  general  information,  and  by  their  establishments 
aided  others  in  their  enterprizes.  Mr.  Hearne,  under  the  direction 
of  this  company,  in  an  expedition  which  lasted  from  the  7th  of 
December  1770  to  the  30th  of  June  1772,  proceeded  from  Prince 
of  Wales'  Fort,  on  the  Churchhill  River  in  latitude  58°  47imu 
north,  and  longitude  94°  7£m.  west  of  Greenwich,  or  199  west 
of  Philadelphia,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Coppermine  River,  which, 
according  to  some  accounts,  is  in  latitude  72°  north,  and  longitude 
119°  west  from  Greenwich,  or  44°  west  of  Philadelphia:  but  is 
laid  down  by  others  to  be  in  latitude  about  69°  north,  and  longi- 
tude 112gwest  from  Greenwich  or  379  west  from  Philadelphia. 


vi  PREFACE. 

Whatever  the  confined  views  and  contracted  policy  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company  may,  however,  have  omitted  in  the  way  of  discovery, 
the  enterprize  and  perseverance  of  the  Canadian  traders,  some- 
time since  united  under  the  name  of  the  North  West  Company, 
have  amply  supplied.  Prior  to  the  year  1789,  they  had  extended 
their  discoveries  and  establishments  along  the  numerous  lakes  and 
rivers  situated  north  of  that  high  tract  of  country  which  divides 
the  Missouri  waters  from  those  which  run  towards  the  north  and 
east,  to  within  a  short  distance  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  In  the 
summer  of  this  year  Mr.  M'Kenzie  made  a  voyage  from  Fort 
Chepewyan  on  the  Lake  of  the  Hills  in  latitude  58°  40m.  north, 
and  longitude  1 J  0Q  30m.  west  from  Greenwich  or  35°  22m.  west 
from  Philadelphia,  by  the  way  of  the  Slave  River,  Slave  Lake,  and 
a  river  by  which  this  lake  discharges  its  waters  (since  called 
M'Kenzie's  River)  to  the  mouth  of  that  river  where  it  falls  into  the 
North  Sea,  in  latitude  69°  14m.  north  and  longitude  135°  west 
from  Greenwich,  or  59°  52m.  west  from  Philadelphia.  He  again 
in  the  year  1 783  penetrated  from  an  establishment  on  the  Peace 
River  in  latitude  56°  9m.  north,  and  longitude  117°  35m.  west 
from  Greenwich,  or  41°  27m.  west  from  Philadelpdia,  to  the  Pacif- 
ic ocean  in  latitude  52°  24m.  north,  and  longitude  128e  2m.  west 
from  Greenwich,  or  52Q  54m.  west  from  Philadelphia. 

By  the  discoveries  alluded  to,  and  those  occasionally  made 
during  the  rapid  settlement  of  the  country  and  the  progress  of 
enterprize,  the  principal  divisions  of  this  Northern  Continent  has 
been  explored  and  become  known.  The  line  separating  these  from 
the  parts  which  remained  unexplored  and  unknown,  may  be  con- 
sidered as  commencing  at  the  Pacific  Ocean  in  latitude  about  38S 
north,  and  running  along  the  high-lands  and  mountains  between 
the  waters  which  fall  into  the  gulfs  of  California  and  Mexico  and 
those  which  fall  into  the  Missouri  River,  and  continuing  in  that 
direction  to  the  Mississippi;  thence  up  the  River  to  the  source  of 
its  highest  northwestern  branch;  thence  along  the  high  tract  of 
country  which  divides  the  waters  of  the  Missouri  from  those  which 
fall  into  Hudson's  Bay  and  the  North  Sea;  from  whence  it  will 
continue  across  the  Rocky  Mountains  to  the  Pacific  Ocean  in  lati- 
tude about  52°  north.  To  the  south  of  this  general  division  line, 
the  known  countries  will  be  Old  and  New  Mexico  and  ft  part  of 
Louisiana,  to  the  southeast,  West  and  East  Florida;  to  the  east, 


PREFACE.  vii 

the  United  States;  to  the  northeast,  Canada,  the  Labrador  country, 
part  of  New  South  Wales  and  of  other  countries  round  Hudson's 
Bay:  and  to  the  north,  part  of  New  South  Wales,  New  North 
Wales,  the  Athabasca  and  other  countries  containing  the  establish- 
ments of  the  Hudson's  Bay  and  North  West  Companies,  and  those 
explored  by  Hearne  and  M'Kenzie:  leaving  unknown  and  unex- 
plored (except  so  far  as  the  surveys  made  by  navigators  of  the  coast 
of  the  Pacific,  and  the  imperfect  accounts  of  traders  who  have 
ascended  the  Missouri  have  furnished  information)  all  that  large 
intermediate  tract,  containing  in  breadth  about  1800  miles,  and 
by  the  way  of  the  Missouri  and  Columbia  Rivers  nearly  twice  that 
distance.  This  tract  from  its  situation  may  be  supposed  to  contain 
the  chief  part  of  those  lands  in  the  great  western  division  of  the 
continent  of  North  America  fit  for  tillage;  and  this  circumstance 
will,  therefore,  in  a  special  manner  claim  the  attention  of  an  agri- 
cultural people,  render  more  interesting  a  description  of  them, 
and  attach  additional  value  to  the  history  of  the  country.  It  will 
not  be  forgotten  that  an  immense  sum  of  treasure  has  been  expend- 
ed in  the  purchase  of  this  country,  and  that  it  is  now  considered 
as  belonging  to  the  United  States.  Here,  at  no  distant  period,  settle- 
ments may  be  formed;  and  in  a  much  shorter  term  than  has  elapsed 
eince  the  first  were  made  in  America,  from  which  hath  arisen  a 
great,  powerful,  and  independent  nation,  the  posterity  of  the  pres- 
ent inhabitants  of  the  Union  may  unfurl  the  standard  of  independ- 
ence on  the  plains  of  the  Missouri  and  Columbia. 

With  respect  to  the  accuracy  of  the  relations  given  in  the  follow- 
ing pages,  it  may  be  necessary  to  inform  those  readers  not  acquaint- 
ed with  the  fact,  that  the  principal  object  in  sending  out  the 
expedition  was  to  gain  some  correct  account  of  the  country;  and 
that  this  might  be  done  more  effectually,  and  the  information  col- 
lected, preserved  with  more  certainty,  it  was  enjoined  upon  the 
several  persons  belonging  to  the  corps,  who  were  considered  capable, 
to  keep  journals,  and  every  necessary  information  and  assistance 
given  them  for  that  purpose.  These  journals  were  also  from  time  to 
time  compared,  corrected,  and  any  blanks,  which  had  been  left, 
filled  up,  and  unavoidable  omissions  supplied.  By  thus  multiply- 
ing the  journals  revising  and  correcting  them,  the  chances  of 
securing  to  the  country  a  true  account  of  the  progress  of  the 
discoveries  which  should  be  made,  especially  should  the  party  be 


viU  PREFACE. 

attacked  and  defeated  by  the  savages,  or  meet  with  any  other  disas- 
ters in  their  hazardous  enterprize,  were  also  multiplied. 

The  following  is  an  extract  of  a  certificate  delivered  by  Captain 
Lewis  to  Mr.  Gass,  dated  St.  Louis,  Oct.  10,  1806. 

"  As  a  tribute  justly  due  to  the  merits  of  the  said  Patrick  Gass, 
"  I  with  cheerfulness  declare,  that  the  ample  support,  which  he 
"gave  me  under  every  difficulty,  the  manly  firmness  which  he 
"evinced  on  every  necessary  occasion,  and  the  fortitude  with 
"  which  he  bore  the  fatigues  and  painful  sufferings  incident  to  that 
"long  voyage,  entitles  him  to  my  highest  confidence  and  sincere 
"thanks,  while  it  eminently  recommends  him  to  the  consideration 
"and  respect  of  his  fellow  citizens." 

In  determining  the  form  in  which  the  work  should  appear,  the 
publisher  had  some  difficulty.  Two  plans  presented  themselves. 
The  one  was  to  preserve  the  form  of  a  daily  journal  (in  which  the 
original  had  been  kept)  and  give  a  plain  description  of  the  coun- 
try and  a  simple  relation  of  occurrences  equally  intelligible  to  all 
readers;  leaving  to  every  person  an  opportunity  of  embellishing 
the  scenes  presented  to  him  in  his  own  way.  The  other  plan  was 
to  more  fully  digest  the  subject,  make  the  narrative  more  general* 
and,  assuming  less  of  the  journal  form  and  style,  describe  and  clothe 
the  principal  parts  of  it  as  his  fancy  might  suggest.  However  far 
the  latter  might  have  been  proper  had  a  foreign  country  been  the 
subject,  and  the  principal  object  of  the  publication,  mere  amuse- 
ment, many  objections  occurred  to  it  in  the  present  case,  and 
rendered  the  former  the  most  eligible,  especially  as  by  it  the  climate 
and  face  of  the  country  will  be  more  satisfactorily  described.  And 
Mr.  Gass  having  declared  that  the  beauties  and  deformities  of  its 
grandest  scenes  were  equally  beyond  the  power  of  description,  no 
attempts  have  been  made  either  by  him  or  the  publisher  to  give 
adequate  representations  of  them. 

The  publisher  hopes  that  the  curiosity  of  the  reader  will  be  in 
some  degree  gratified;  that  the  information  furnished  will  not  be 
uninteresting;  and  that  some  aid  will  be  furnished  those  who  wish 
to  acquire  a  geographical  knowledge  of  their  country. 
March  26,  1807. 


JOURNAL 


TO   THE 


ROCKY    MOUNTAINS 


CHAPTER  I. 

ON  Monday,  the  14th,  of  May,  1804,  we  left  our  estab- 
lishment at  the  mouth  of  the  River  du  Bois  or  Wood 
River,  a  small  river  which  falls  into  the  Mississippi,  on 
the  east  side,  a  mile  below  the  Missouri,  and  having 
crossed  the  Mississippi,  proceeded  up  the  Missouri  on 
our  voyage  of  discovery,  under  the  command  of  Capt. 
Clark.  Captain  Lewis  was  to  join  us  in  two  or  three 
days, on  our  passage. 

The  corps  consisted  of  forty-three  men,  (including 
Captain  Lewis  and  Captain  Clark,  who  were  to  command 
the  expedition, )  part  of  the  regular  troops  of  the  United 
States,  and  part  for  this  particular  enterprize.  The 
expedition  was  embarked  on  board  a  batteau  and  two 
periogues.  The  day  was  showery,  and  in  the  evening 
we  encamped  on  the  north  bank  six  miles  up  the  river. 
Here  we  had  leisure  to  reflect  on  our  situation,  ajid  the 
nature  of  our  engagements,  and,  as  we  had  all  entered 
this  service  as  volunteers,  to  consider  how  far  we  stood 
pledged  for  the  success  of  an  expedition  which  the 
government  had  projected,  and  which  had  been  under- 
taken for  the  benefit  and  at  the  expense  of  the  Union, 
of  course  of  much  interest  and  high  expectation. 

The  best  authenticated  accounts  informed  us,  that  we 
were  to  pass  through  the  country  possessed  by  numerous, 
powerful  and  warlike  nations  of  savages,  of  gigantic 
stature,  fierce,  treacherous,  and  cruel;  and  particularly 
hostile  to  white  men.  And  fame  had  united  with  tradi- 
tion in  opposing  mountains  to  our  course,  which  human 
enterprize  and  exertion  would  attempt  in  vain  to  pass. 


14        JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

The  determined  and  resolute  character,  however,  of  the 
corps,  and  the  confidence  which  pervaded  all  ranks 
dispelled  every  emotion  of  fear  and  anxiety  for  the 
present ;  while  a  sense  of  duty,  and  of  the  honour,  which 
would  attend  the  completion  of  the  object  of  the  expe- 
dition, a  wish  to  gratify  the  expectations  of  the  govern- 
ment and  of  our  fellow  citizens,  with  the  feelings  which 
novelty  and  discovery  invariably  inspire,  seemed  to 
insure  to  us  ample  support  in  our  future  toils,  sufferings, 
and  dangers. 

On  the  15.  We  continued  our  voyage.  It  rained  in 
the  morning ;  but  in  the  afternoon  we  had  clear  weather, 
and  encamped  at  night  on  the  north  side  of  the  river. 

Wednesday  16.  We  had  a  fine  pleasant  morning; 
embarked  early,  and  at  2  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  arrived 
at  St.  Charles,  and  fired  a  gun.  A  number  of  inhabi- 
tants came  to  see  us.  This  is  an  old  French  village,  in 
the  country  around  which,  a  number  of  Americans  have 
settled. 

We  remained  at  St.  Charles  until  the  21st,  where 
Captain  Lewis  arrived  from  St.  Louis  and  joined  us. 
At  4  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we  left  this  place  under  a 
salute  of  three  cheers  from  the  inhabitants,  which  we 
returned  with  three  more  and  a  discharge  of  three  guns. 
This  evening  was  showery,  and  we  again  encamped  on 
the  north  side  of  the  river. 

Tuesday  22.  We  continued  our  voyage;  passed  Bon- 
um  Creek  on  the  south  side,  and  having  made  fifteen 
miles,  encamped  at  the  Cliffs  on  the  north  side  of  the 
river.  Here  we  were  visited  by  some  Indians. 

Wednesday  23.  At  6  o'clock  in  the  morning  we  pro- 
ceeded on  our  voyage  with  pleasant  weather.  Passed 
the  mouth  of  the  Osage  River  on  the  south  side,  about 
a  mile  and  a  half  below  the  Tavern  Cove — a  noted  place 
among  the  French  traders.  One  mile  above  this  is  the 
Tavern  Creek.  We  encamped  this  evening  on  the  south 
side  of  the  river,  and  had  our  arms  and  ammunition 
inspected. 

Thursday  24.  We  continued  our  voyage,  and  en- 
camped at  night  on  the  south  side.  This  day  our  boat 
turned  in  a  ripple,  and  nearly  upset. 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATERICK  GASS.  15 

Friday  25.  We  proceeded  three  miles  and  passed  a 
creek  on  the  south  side,  called  Wood  River;  the  banks 
of  the  river  are  here  high  and  the  land  rich.  Arrived  at 
St.  Johns,  a  small  French  village  situated  on  the  north 
side,  and  encamped  a  quarter  of  a  mile  above  it.  This 
is  the  last  settlement  of  white  people  on  the  river. 

Saturday  26.  This  morning  two  of  our  people  set 
out  by  land  with  a  couple  of  horses.  At  seven  we  em- 
barked and  had  loud  thunder  and  heavy  rain;  passed 
Otter  Creek  on  the  north  side,  and  encamped  near  its 
mouth. 

Sunday  27.  We  passed  Ash  Creek  where  there  are 
high  cliffs  on  the  south  side,  and  at  five  in  the  afternoon 
arrived  at  the  mouth  of  Gaskenade  River.  On  the  south 
side  one  of  our  party  killed  a  deer.  We  encamped  for 
the  night  on  an  island  opposite  the  mouth  of  Gaskenade 
River.  This  is  a  very  handsome  place, — a  rich  soil  and 
pleasant  country. 

Monday  28.  Our  provisions  and  stores  were  put  out 
to  air  and  dry,  and  several  of  our  men  sent  out  to  hunt. 
One  of  them  killed  a  deer.  The  mouth  of  the  Gasken- 
ade River  is  157  yards  wide. 

Tuesday  29.  Seven  men  were  sent  out  to  hunt,  six 
of  whom  returned.  We  waited  here  until  5  o'clock 
P.  M.  for  the  man  who  had  not  come  in,  and  then  pro- 
ceeded three  miles,  passing  Deer  Creek  on  the  south  side. 
A  periogue  and  eight  men  had  been  left  for  the  hunter 
who  had  not  returned. 

Wednesday  30.  ^fter  experiencing  a  very  disagreea- 
ble night,  on  account  of  the  rain,  we  continued  our 
voyage  at  seven  o'clock  A.  M.  and  passed  a  cove  where 
there  were  high  cliffs  on  the  north  side  opposite  an 
island,  called  Mombran's  Tavern.  At  twelve  we  had  a 
heavy 'shower  of  rain,  accompanied  with  hail ;  passed  a 
creek  called  Rush  Creek,  on  the  north  side,  and  four 
miles  futher,  Mud  Creek  on  the  same  side.  Here  the 
soil  is  good,  with  cotton  wood,  sycamore,  oak,  hickory, 
and  white  walnut,  with  some  grape  vines  and  an  abund- 
ance of  rushes.  We  halted  and  encamped  at  Grindstone 
Creek  on  the  south  side  of  the  river. 


IS      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

Thursday  31.  We  were  obliged  to  remain  at  this 
encampment  all  day,  on  account  of  a  strong  wind  from 
the  west.  An  Indian  man  and  a  squaw  came  down  the 
river  with  two  canoes,  loaded  with  fur  and  peltry,  and 
remained  with  us  all  night.  Some  of  our  hunters  went 
out  and  killed  a  deer. 

Friday,  June  1,  1804.  Before  daylight  we  embarked 
and  proceeded  on  our  voyage ;  passed  Big  Muddy  Creek 
on  the  north  side,  and  on  the  opposite  side  saw  high 
banks.  Two  and  a  half  miles  higher  up,  we  passed  Bear 
Creek,  and  at  four  o'clock  P.  M.  arrived  at  the  Osage 
River ;  where  we  remained  during  the  evening  and  the 
next  day.  The  Osage  River  is  197  yards  wide  at  its 
confluence  with  the  Missouri,  which,  at  this  place,  is  875 
yards  broad.  The  country  on  the  south  side  is  broken, 
but  rich,  and  the  land  on  the  other  of  a  most  excellent 
quality.  The  two  men  that  went  by  land  with  the  horses 
came  to  us  here:  they  represented  the  land  they  had 
passed  through  as  the  best  they  had  ever  seen,  and  the 
timber  good,  consisting  chiefly  of  oak,  ash,  hickory  and 
black  walnut.  They  killed  in  their  way  five  deer.  The 
periogue  left  at  the  mouth  of  Gaskenade  River,  came  up 
with  the  man  who  had  been  lost.  Here  our  hunters 
went  out  and  killed  three  deer.  The  Osage  nations  of 
Indians  live  about  two  hundred  miles  up  this  river. 
They  are  of  a  large  size  and  well  proportioned,  and  a  very 
warlike  people.  Our  arms  and  ammunition  were  all  in- 
spected here  and  found  in  good  order. 

Sunday  3.  Captain  Lewis,  with  one  of  the  men  went 
out  and  killed  a  deer.  At  five  in  the  afternoon  we  em- 
barked, and,  having  proceeded  six  miles,  encamped  at  the 
mouth  of  Morrow  Creek  on  the  south  side. 

Monday  4.  We  continued  our  voyage,  and  during 
the  day  broke  our  mast  by  steering  too  close  to  the 
shore.  In  the  evening  we  encamped  on  the  south  side, 
near  lead  mines,  when  our  hunters  came  in  with  seven 
deer. 

Tuesday  5.  We  passed  Mine  Creek  on  the  south 
side,  and  Little  Goodwoman  Creek  on  the  north :  also 
the  Creek  of  the  Big  Rock.  We  met  two  Frenchmen 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  17 

in  two  canoes  laden  with  peltry :  passed  a  high  cliff  of 
rocks  on  the  south  side.     The  land  about  this  place  is 
good  and  well  timbered. 

On  the  6.  We  passed  Saline  Creek  on  the  south  side  ; 
and  on  the  7th,  the  river  of  the  Big  Devil  on  the  north  ; 
and  Big  Goodwoman's  Creek  on  the  same  side,  where  we 
encamped. 

Friday  8.  We  embarked  and  proceeded  five  miles, 
when  we  met  four  canoes  loaded  with  fur  and  peltry: 
and  passed  the  Mine  River  on  the  south  side,  which  is 
150  yards  wide.  The  land  here  is  also  good  and  well 
timbered. 

Saturday  9.  We  passed  the  Prairie  of  Arrows  and 
Arrow  Creek  on  the'  south  side.  This  is  a  beautiful 
country  and  the  land  excellent.  The  Missouri  is  here 
only  300  yards  wide,  and  the  current  very  strong.  Three 
miles  further  we  passed  Blackbird  Creek  on  the  north 
side,  and  encamped.  This  day  going  round  some  drift 
wood,  the  stern  of  the  boat  became  fast,  when  she 
immediately  swung  round,  and  was  in  great  danger;  but 
we  got  her  off  without  much  injury. 

Sunday  10.  We  proceeded  five  miles,  passed  Deer-lick 
Creek  on  the  north  side ;  and  three  miles  further  the 
Two  Charlottes  on  the  same  side.  The  mouths  of 
these  two  rivers  are  very  near  each  other:  the  first  70 
and  the  other  100  yards  wide.  We  encamped  on  the 
south  side  of  the  river  at  a  prairie,  and  remained  there 
the  whole  of  the  next  day,  the  wind  blowing  too  violent 
for  us  to  proceed. 

Tuesday  12.  We  set  out  early,  and  proceeded  until 
five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  when  we  met  five  periogues 
loaded  with  fur  and  peltry  from  the  Sioux  nation  of 
Indians.  We  remained  with  the  people  to  whom  these 
periogues  belonged  all  night;  and  got  from  them  an  old 
Frenchman,  who  could  speak  the  languages  of  the  dif- 
ferent nations  of  Indians  up  the  Missouri,  and  who 
agreed  to  go  with  us  as  an  interpreter. 

Wednesday  13.     We  proceeded  early  on  our  voyage; 
passed  a  small  creek  on  the  north  side  in  a  long  bend  of 
the  river,  and  encamped  at  the  mouth  of  Grand  River  on 
2 


18      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

the  North  side.     This  is  as  handsome  a  place  as  I  ever 
saw  in  an  uncultivated  state. 

Thursday  14.  At  five  o'clock  in  the  morning  we  con- 
tinued our  voyage.  The  river  having  risen  during  the 
night  was  difficult  to  ascend.  At  noon  we  passed 
some  Frenchmen  from  the  Poenese  or  Ponis  nation  of 
Indians,  where  they  spent  the  last  winter.  In  the  eve- 
ning we  passed  Snake  Creek  on  the  north  side  and 
encamped  on  the  same. 

Friday  15.  We  renewed  our  voyage  at  five  in  the 
morning,  and  had  very  rapid  water.  There  is  a  beau- 
tiful Prairie  on  the  south  side  and  the  land  high.  Mul- 
berries are  in  great  abundance  almost  all  along  the  river. 
We  encamped  on  the  north  side,  opposite  an  old  Indian 
village. 

Saturday  16.  Three  men  went  out  this  morning  to 
look  for  timber  to  make  oars,  but  could  find  none  suitable. 
On  their  return  we  continued  our  voyage;  had  cloudy 
weather  and  rapid  water  all  day  and  encamped  on  the 
north  side, 

Sunday  17.  This  morning  was  clear  and  at  five  we 
renewed  our  voyage.  Having  proceeded  about  a  mile 
we  halted  to  get  timber  for  oars ;  and  while  we  remained 
here  to  make  them  our  hunters  came  in  and  brought  with 
them  a  handsome  horse,  which  they  had  found  astray. 
They  also  brought  a  bear,  which  they  had  killed. 

Monday  18.  We  remained  here  all  day;  and  our 
hunters  killed  five  deer  and  a  bear.  On  the  south  side 
there  is  high  land  and  a  long  prairie ;  on  the  north  the 
land  is  level  and  well  timbered,  with  ash,  sugar  tree,  black 
walnut,  buck-eye,  cotton  wood  and  some  other  timber. 

Tuesday  19.  We  passed  Tabo  Creek  on  the  south 
side,  and  a  small  creek  on  the  north;  and  encamped  on 
the  south  side  opposite  a  small  lake  about  two  miles 
distant. 

Wednesday  20.  At  five  in  the  morning  we  continued 
our  voyage,  passed  Tiger  Creek,  a  large  creek  that  flows 
in  from  the  north,  and  encamped  on  an  island.  The  land 
along  here  is  good  on  both  sides  of  the  river. 

On  the   21.     We  had  rapid  water,  and  for  about  a 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  19 

mile  had  to  warp  up  our  boat  by  a  rope.  A  creek  called 
Du  Beau  or  Du  Bois,  falls  in  on  the  south  side  behind  an 
island.  We  encamped  in  the  evening  on  the  south  side. 

Friday  22.  It  rained  hard  from  four  to  seven  in  the 
morning,  when  we  continued  our  voyage.  About  twelve 
one  of  our  men  went  out  and  killed  a  large  bear.  We 
encamped  at  a  handsome  prairie  on  the  south  side  oppo- 
site a  large  creek,  called  the  Fire-prairie,  and  which  is  60 
yards  wide. 

Saturday  23.  We  set  out  at  five  in  the  morning;  at 
twelve  the  wind  blew  so  strong  down  the  river  that  we 
were  unable  to  proceed,  and  we  encamped  on  an  island 
and  inspected  the  arms  and  ammunition.  Captain  Clarke 
went  out  with  one  of  the  men  and  did  not  return  this 
evening. 

Sunday  24.  We  had  a  fine  morning,  embarked  at  five 
and  pursued  our  voyage :  at  nine  Captain  Clarke  came  to 
us  and  brought  with  him  two  deer  and  a  bear.  We  passed 
a  creek  on  the  south  side  called  Depie.  At  twelve  we 
stopped  to  jirk*  our  meat,  and  again  proceeded  at  two; 
passed  a  creek  on  the  north  side  and  encamped  on  the 
south  bank  of  the  river. 

Monday  25.  The  morning  was  foggy,  and  at  seven 
o'clock  we  pursued  our  voyage.  The  river  here  is  nar- 
row with  high  land  on  the  south  side.  We  passed  a  creek 
on  the  south  side  called  Labenile,  and  encamped  on  an 
island. 

Tuesday  26.  We  embarked  and  set  out  at  five  o'clock 
in  the  morning;  passed  a  creek  on  the  south  side,  called 
Blue-water.  This  afternoon  we  had  some  difficulty  in 
passing  a  sand-bar,  the  tow-rope  having  broke ;  but  by  the 
exertions  of  those  on  board,  the  boat  was  brought  to  shore 
without  injury.  We  encamped  on  the  south  side  on  a 
point  at  the  confluence  of  the  Canzan,  or  Kanzas  River 
with  the  Missouri.  It  was  agreed  to  remain  here  during 
the  27th  and  28th  where  we  pitched  our  tents  and  built 
bowers  in  front  of  them.  Canzan  or  Kanzas,  is  two  hun- 
dred and  thirty  and  a  quarter  yards  wide,  and  navigable 

*  Jirk  is  meat  cut  into  email  pieces  and  dried  in  the  sun  or  by 
afire.  Tho  Indians  cure  and  preserre  their  meat  in  this  way  with- 
out salt. 


20  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

to  a  great  distance.  Our  hunters  killed  four  deer,  and  a 
young  wolf,  and  caught  another  alive.  In  the  afternoon 
of  the  29th  we  again  proceeded  on  our  voyage,  and 
encamped  on  the  north  side  of  the  river. 

Saturday  30.  The  day  was  clear  and  we  continued 
our  voyage ;  found  high  land  on  both  sides  of  the  river  ; 
and  passed  a  large  creek  on  the  north  side,  called  Platt, 
fifty  yards  wide.  We  broke  our  mast  and  encamped  on 
the  south  side,  where  there  were  the  most  signs  of  game 
I  ever  saw. 

Sunday  July  1 ,  1 804.  We  set  out  at  five  in  the  morn- 
ing, and  having  advanced  twelve  miles,  encamped  on  an 
island  opposite  a  prairie  on  the  south  side  of  the  river. 

Monday  2.  At  sunrise  we  continued  our  voyage,  and 
met  a  quantity  of  drift-wood  which  was  carried  down  the 
stream ;  this  morning  we  passed  a  creek  on  the  south 
side  and  encamped  on  the  north  -opposite  an  old  French 
village  and  fort,  but  all  vacant. 

Tuesday  3.  We  proceeded  again  at  five,  and  continu- 
ed our  voyage  until  twelve,  when  we  .stoped  at  an  old 
trading  place  on  the  south  side  of  the  river.  There  we 
found  a  grey  horse ;  but  saw  no  appearance  of  any  persons 
having  lately  encamped  at  that  place. 

Wednesday  4.  We  fired  a  swivel  at  sunrise  in  honor 
of  the  day,  and  continued  our  voyage;  passed  a  creek  on 
the  north  side,  called  Pond  Creek,  and  at  one  o'clock  stopt 
to  dine.  One  of  our  people  got  snake  bitten,  but  not 
dangerously.  After  dinner  we  renewed  our  voyage, 
passed  a  creek  on  the  north  side,  which  we  called  INDE- 
PENDENCE, encamped  on  the  north  side  at  an  old  Indian 
village  situated  in  a  handsome  prairie,  and  saluted  the 
departing  day  with  another  gun. 

Thursday  5.  We  proceeded  on  our  voyage  at  five  in 
the  morning;  and  found  the  land  high  on  the  south  side. 
We  went  through  a  large  bend  full  of  sand  bars  where 
we  had  some  difficulty  in  passing;  and  encamped  on  the 
south  side  at  high  prairie  land. 

Friday  6.  We  set  out  early  this  morning;  had  a  fine 
day,  and  made  a  good  days  voyage:  and  encamped  on 
the  south  side,  at  Whippowil  Creek. 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  21 

Saturday  7.  At  an  early  hour  we  proceeded  on  our 
voyage,  passed  a  high  handsome  prairie  on  the  north  side, 
and  killed  a  wolf  and  a  large  wood  rat  on  the  bank. 
The  principle  difference  between  it  and  the  common 
rat  is,  its  having  hair  on  its  tail. 

Sunday  8.  We  were  under  way  this  morning  before 
daylight.  The  river  here  is  crooked  and  narrow.  At 
one  we  came  to  a  large  island,  with  only  a  small  stream 
on  the  north  side  which  we  went  up.  A  large  creek 
called  Nadowa  flows  in  from  the  north ;  and  on  this  side 
we  encamped. 

Monday  9.  Early  this  morning  we  continued  our 
voyage.  It  rained  hard  till  twelve  o'clock.  We  passed 
a  creek  on  the  south  side,  called  Wolf  Creek.  The  man 
that  was  snake  bitten  is  become  well.  We  encamped  on 
the  south  side. 

Tuesday  10.  We  set  out  early  this  morning  and  had 
a  fair  day,  and  fair  wind.  There  is  a  handsome  prairie 
on  the  south  side  opposite  an  island.  We  encamped  on 
the  north  side. 

Wednesday  11.  We  also  embarked  early  this  morn- 
ing; passed  a  creek  on  the  north  side,  called  Tarico,  and 
halted  at  an  island,  opposite  a  creek  called  Moha  on  the 
south  side  of  the  river.  Seven  hunters  went  out  to  day 
and  two  of  them  brought  in  five  deer.  Here  we  found 
another  horse  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  supposed  to  have 
been  left  by  a  hunting  party  last  winter.  Two  of 
our  men,  who  had  gone  to  hunt  on  the  south  side  of  the 
river,  did  not  return  at  night. 

Thursday  12.  We  remained  here  this  day,  that  the 
men,  who  were  much  fatigued,  might  take  some  rest. 
The  hunters  who  had  remained  on  the  south  side  of  the 
river  all  night,  came  in,  but  had  killed  nothing.  Two 
more  went  to  hunt  on  the  north  side  and  killed  two  deer. 

Friday  13.  We  were  early  under  way  this  morning 
with  a  fair  wind.  The  day  was  fine.  We  passed  a  creek 
on  the  north  side,  and  having  made  twenty  and  a  half 
miles,  encamped  on  a  large  sand  bar. 

Saturday  14.  At  day  break  it  began  to  rain  and  con- 
tinued until  seven  when  it  abated,  and  we  set  forward : 


22      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

but  in  a  short  time  a  gust  of  wind  and  rain  came  on  so 
violent,  that  all  hands  had  to  leap  into  the  water  to  save 
the  boat.  Fortunately  this  storm  did  not  last  long,  and 
we  went  on  to  a  convenient  place  and  landed.  Here  we 
continued  two  hours  and  then  proceeded.  We  saw  some 
elk,  but  could  not  kill  any  of  them ;  passed  a  river  on  the 
north  side,  called  Wash-ba-to-nan,  and  encamped  on  the 
south  side. 

Sunday  15.  We  got  under  way  at  six  o'clock;  passed 
a  creek  on  the  south  side;  and  gathered  some  ripe  grapes, 
There  is  high  land  and  prairies  on  this  side.  Captain 
Clarke  and  two  men  went  by  land.  At  the  head  of  an 
island,  called  Elk  island,  we  found  some  pummice  stone 
among  the  drift  wood.  We  passed  a  creek  on  the  south 
side,  called  Na-ma-ha,  and  encamped  on  the  same. 

Monday  16.  Early  in  the  morning  we  proceeded  on 
our  voyage  opposite  a  prairie ;  had  a  fine  day  and  fair 
wind,  and  passed  a  long  island,  above  which  is  a  place 
where  the  bank  has  slipped  into  the  river.  There  are 
high  rocky  cliffs  on  the  south  side,  and  hills  and  prairies 
on  the  north :  on  which  side  we  encamped.  The  river 
here  is  two  miles  wide  with  rapid  water.  Two  of  our 
hunters  met  us  here  with  two  deer. 

Tuesday  17.  We  remained  here  all  day;  and  one  of 
our  hunters  killed  three  deer. 

Wednesday  18.  Early  this  morning  we  prosecuted  our 
voyage  with  a  fair  wind  and  pleasant  weather.  This  is 
the  most  open  country  I  ever  beheld,  almost  one 
continued  prairie.  Two  of  our  hunters  went  by  land 
with  the  horses  as  usual.  On  the  south  side  we  passed 
high  handsome  banks  or  bluffs  of  red  and  blue  strata; 
found  some  iron  ore  here,  and  encamped  on  the  south 
side,  where  one  of  our  hunters  brought  us  two  deer. 

Thursday  19.  At  sun  rise  we  renewed  our  voyage,  and 
passed  a  number  of  sand  bars,  and  high  land  on  the  south 
side.  Where  we  halted  for  dinner,  we  found  a  great 
quantity  of  cherries,  called  by  some,  choak  cherries.  We 
encamped  for  the  night  on  an  island  of  Willows. 

Friday  20.  We  embarked  early;  passed  high  yellow 
banks  on  the  south  side  and  a  creek,  called  the  Water- 


24  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE. 

which-cries,  or  the  weeping  stream,  opposite  a  willow 
island,  and  encamped  on  a  prairie  on  the  south  side. 

Saturday  21.  We  set  out  early.  It  rained  this  morn- 
ing but  we  had  a  fine  breeze  of  wind.  There  are  a  great 
many  willow  islands  and  sand-bars  in  this  part  of  the 
river.  At  nine  the  wind  fell,  and  at  one  we  came  to  the 
great  river  Platte,  or  shallow  river,  which  comes  in  on 
the  south  side,  and  at  the  mouth  is  three  quarters  of  a 
mile  broad.  The  land  is  flat  about  the  confluence.  Up 
this  river  live  three  nations  of  Indians,  the  Otos,  Panis 
and  Loos,  or  Wolf  Indians.  On  the  south  side  there  is 
also  a  creek,  called  Butterfly  Creek. 

Sunday  22.  We  left  the  river  Platte  and  proceeded 
early  on  our  voyage,  with  fair  weather.  There  is  high 
prairie  land  on  the  south  side,  with  some  timber  on  the 
northern  parts  of  the  hills.  We  came  nine  miles  from 
the  mouth  of  Platte  Eiver,  and  landed  on  the  willow  bank. 
The  hunters  killed  five  deer  and  caught  two  beaver. 

Monday  23.  Six  men  were  sent  out  to  make  oars; 
and  two  to  a  nation  of  Indians  up  the  Platte  River,  to 
inform  them  of  the  change  of  government  in  this  coun- 
try, and  that  we  were  here  ready  to  treat  with  them.  Wo 
hoisted  a  flag,  and  sent  them  another. 

Our  people  were  all  busily  engaged  in  hunting,  making 
oars,  dressing  skins,  and  airing  our  stores,  provisions 
and  baggage.  We  killed  two  deer  and  caught  two  beaver. 
Beaver  appear  plenty  in  this  part  of  the  country. 

We  continued  here  until  the  27.  On  the  24th- there 
were  some  showers ;  but  during  the  remainder  of  the  time 
there  was  clear  weather.  Our  people  were  generally 
employed  as  before.  The  hunters  killed  five  more  deer; 
and  the  two  men  returned  from  the  Indian  village,  with- 
out finding  any  of  the  natives. 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  25 


CHAPTER  II. 


Friday  27.  This  forenoon  we  were  engaged  in  load- 
ing the  boats  and  preparing  to  start.  At  twelve  we  pro- 
ceeded with  a  fair  wind,  and  pleasant  weather;  went 
twelve  miles,  and  encamped  on  a  handsome  prairie  on  the 
south  side. 

Saturday  28.  We  set  out  early ;  had  a  cloudy  morning ; 
passed  some  beautiful  hills  and  prairies,  and  a  creek 
called  Round- Knob  Creek,  on  the  north  side;  and  high 
bluffs  on  the  south.  We  encamped  on  the  north  side. 
Here  two  of  our  hunters  came  to  us,  accompanied  by 
one  of  the  Oto  Indians. 

Sunday  29.  We  embarked  early,  and  continued  our 
voyage.  One  of  our  Frenchmen  went  with  the  Indian 
to  bring  more  of  them  to  meet  us  at  some  convenient 
landing  place.  At  twelve  one  of  our  hunters  came  in 
with  a  deer  and  some  elk  meat.  We  renewed  our  voy- 
age at  three,  passed  a  bank,  where  there  was  a  quantity 
of  fallen  timber,  and  encamped  on  the  north  side. 

Monday  30.  Our  grey  horse  died  last  night.  We  set 
out  early,  and  the  hunters  met  us  with  a  deer.  At  nine 
we  came  to  some  timber  land  at  the  foot  of  a  high  bluff 
and  encamped  there  in  order  to  wait  for  the  Indians.  At 
the  top  of  the  bluff  is  a  large  handsome  prairie,  and  a 
large  pond,  or  small  lake  about  two  miles  from  camp  on 
the  south  side  of  the  river.  Two  of  our  hunters  went 
out  and  killed  an  animal,  called  a  prarow,  about  the  size 
of  a  groundhog  and  nearly  of  the  same  colour.  It -has 
a  head  similar  to  that  of  a  dog,  short  legs  and  large 
claws  on  its  fore  feet ;  some  of  the  claws  are  an  inch 
and  a  half  long.*  Our  hunters  again  went  out,  but  did  not 
return  this  day. 

Tuesday  31.  One  of  our  men  went  to  visit  •  some 
traps  he  had  set,  and  in  one  found  a  young  beaver,  but 
little  hurt  and  brought  it  in  alive.  In  a  short  time 

*See  Plate. 


26      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

he  went  out  again  and  killed  a  large  buck.  Two  other 
hunters  came  in  about  twelve,  who  had  killed  two  deer; 
but  lost  the  horses.  One  of  them  with  two  other  per- 
sons were  sent  out  to  hunt  them,  who  returned  at  dark 
without  finding  them ;  and  supposed  they  had  been  stolen 
by  the  Indians. 

Wednesday  August  1.  1804.  Three  of  our  men  again 
went  out  to  hunt  the  horses,  but  returned  without  them. 
They  brought  a  deer,  and  two  of  our  other  hunters  killed 
two  more. 

Thursday  2.  Some  hunters  went  out  this  morning; 
and  two  of  them  returned  with  the  horses  and  an  elk  they 
had  killed.  The  others  brought  in  two  large  bucks  and 
a  fawn.  The  Indians  we  expected  came  at  dark;  but 
our  Frenchman  was  not  with  them.  We  supposed  he 
had  been  lost.  This  place  we  named  Council-Bluff, 
and  by  observation  found  to  be  in  latitude  41°  17'  north. 

Friday  3.  Captain  Lewis  and  Captain  Clarke  held 
a  council  with  the  Indians,  who  appeared  well  pleased 
with  the  change  of  government,  and  what  had  been  done 
for  them.  Six  of  them  were  made  chiefs,  three  Otos 
and  three  Missouris. 

We  renewed  our  voyage  at  three  o'clock;  went  six 
miles  and  encamped  on  the  south  side ;  where  we  had  a 
storm  of  wind  and  rain,  which  lasted  two  hours. 

Saturday  4.  We  were  early  under  way  this  morning, 
and  had  a  fair  day.  We  passed  a  creek  on  the  south 
side,  which  came  out  of  ponds.  One  of  our  men  went 
out  this  morning  and  did  not  return :  another  came  to  us 
and  brought  a  deer.  We  encamped  on  the  south  side. 

Sunday  5.  We  set  out  early,  but  a  storm  of  rain  and 
wind  obliged  us  to  stop  two  hours.  It  then  cleared  and 
we  continued  our  voyage ;  passed  prairies  on  both  sides, 
and  encamped  on  the  north  side.  The  river  here  is  very 
crooked  and  winding.  To  arrive  at  a  point  only  three 
hundred  and  seventy  yards  from  this  place,  the  passage 
by  water  is  twelve  miles.  , 

Monday  6.  We  proceeded  at  an  early  hour  this 
morning,  after  a  stormy  night  of  wind  and  rain ;  passed 
a  creek  on  the  north  side,  at  the  back  of  an  island,  called 
Soldiers  Creek;  and  encamped  on  the  south  side. 


28      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

Tuesday  7.  We  set  out  early  this  morning  and  con- 
tinued our  voyage  till  twelve,  when  four  of  our  people  were 
dispatched  to  the  Oto  nation  of  Indians  after  the  man 
who  had  not  returned  on  the  4th,  with  orders  to  take 
him  dead  or  alive,  if  they  could  see  him.  There  is  no 
timber  in  this  country,  except  some  cotton  wood  and 
willows  in  the  bends  of  the  river.  All  the  high  land  is 
a  continued  prairie.  We  encamped  on  the  north  side. 
The  musketoes  here  are  very  numerous  and  trouble- 
some. 

Wednesday  8.  We  embarked  early,  passed  a  small 
river  on  the  north  side,  called  Little  Sioux.  Captain 
Clarke  and  one  of  the  men  went  out  to  hunt  and  killed 
an  elk.  One  of  the  hunters  killed  a  pelican  on  a  sand 
bar,  and  Captain  Lewis  killed  another  very  large.  We 
encamped  on  the  north  bank.  In  the  bag  under  the 
bill  and  neck  of  the  pelican,  which  Captain  Lewis  killed, 
we  put  five  gallons  of  water. 

Thursday  9.  The  fog  was  so  thick  this  morning, 
that  we  could  not  proceed  before  seven,  when  we  went 
on  under  a  gentle  breeze,  and  having  advanced  eleven 
miles,  came  to  a  place  where  the  river  by  cutting  through 
a  narrow  neck  of  land,  reduced  the  distance  fifteen  miles. 
Captain  Clarke  and  one  of  the  men  went  out  to  hunt,  and 
killed  a  small  turkey.  We  encamped  on  the  south  side, 
where  we  found  the  musketoes  very  troublesome. 

Friday  10.  We  embarked  early,  passed  high  yellow 
banks  on  the  south  side,  and  encamped  on  the  north. 

Saturday  11.  A  storm  came  on  at  three  o'clock  this 
morning  and  continued  till  nine;  notwithstanding  which, 
we  kept  under  way  till  ten,  when  we  came  to  a  high 
bluff,  where  an  Indian  Chief  had  been  buried,  and  placed 
a  flag  upon  a  pole,  which  had  been  set  up  at  his  grave. 
His  name  was  Blackbird,  king  of  the  Mahas;  an  absolute 
monarch  while  living,  and  the  Indians  suppose  can  exer- 
cise the  power  of  one  though  dead.  We  encamped  in 
latitude  42°  1 '  3s.  three,  as  ascertained  by  observation. 

Sunday  12.  We  embarked  and  got  under  way  before 
daylight.  The  'musketoes  last  night  were  worse  than 
I  ever  experienced.  We  went  around  a  bend,  of 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  29 

eighteen  miles,  the  neck  of  which  was  only  nine  hundred 
and  seventy  four  yards  across;  passed  high  bluffs  of 
yellow  clay  on  the  south  side  of  the  river  and  low  land 
on  the  north;  and  encamped  on  a  sand  Island. 

Monday  13.  We  proceeded  this  morning  with  a  fair 
wind;  and  at  two  landed  on  a  sandy  beach,  near  the  Maha 
village,  on  the  south  side  of  the  river.  A  sergeant  and 
one  man  were  sent  to  the  village,  who  did  not  return  this 
day. 

Tuesday  14.  The  sergeant  and  man  returned  from 
the  village ;  but  they  had  found  no  Indians  there.  Some 
of  our  hunters  went  out  but  killed  nothing.  Game 
appears  scarce  here.  While  at  this  place  we  provided 
ourselves  with  a  new  mast. 

Wednesday  15.  Captain  Clarke  and  ten  of  the  party 
went  to  the  Maha  Creek  to  fish,  and  caught  three  hundred 
and  eighty  seven  fish  of  different  kinds.  We  discovered 
smoke  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  and  four  men 
crossed  to  see  if  any  of  the  Mahas  or  Sioux  Indians  were 
there ;  but  could  not  discover  any.  There  had  been  fire 
there  some  days,  and  the  wind  lately  blowing  hard 
had  caused  the  fire  to  spread  and  smoke  to  rise.  We 
continued  at  this  place  until  the  20th.  Captain  Lewis 
went  with  a  party  of  twelve  men  to  fish  and  took  seven 
hundred  and  nine  fish,  one  hundred  and  sixty  seven  of 
which  were  large  pike.  The  fish  here  are  generally  pike,  cat, 
.sun,  perch  and  other  common  fish.  What  we  caught 
were  taken  with  trails  or  bush  nets.  On  the  18th,  the 
party  who  had  been  sent  in  pursuit  of  the  man  who  had 
been  absent  since  the  4th,  returned  with  him,  and  eight 
Indians  and  a  Frenchman ;  but  left  our  Frenchman  be- 
hind who  had  gone  out  to  hunt  the  horses.  On  the  19th, 
a  council  was  held  with  these  Indians,  who  appeared 
to  wish  to  make  peace  with  all  nations.  This  day  ser- 
geant Floyd  became  very  sick  and  remained  so  all  night. 
He  was  seized  with  a  complaint  somewhat  like  a  violent 
colic. 

Monday  20.  Sergeant  Floyd  continued  very  ill. 
We  embarked  early,  and  proceeded,  having  a  fair  wind 
and  fine  weather,  till  two  o'clock,  when  we  landed  for 


SO      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

dinner.  Here  sergeant  Floyd  died,  notwithstanding 
every  possible  effort  was  made  by  the  commanding  offi- 
cers, and  other  persons,  to  save  his  life.  We  went  on 
about  a  mile  to  high  prairie  hills  on  the  north  side  of 
the  river,  and  there  interred  his  remains  in  the  most 
decent  manner  our  circumstances  would  admit ;  we  then 
proceeded  a  mile  further  to  a  small  river  on  the  same 
side  and  encamped.  Our  commanding  officers  gave  it 
the  name  of  Floyd's  River;  to  perpetuate  the  memory  of 
the  first  man  who  had  fallen  in  this  important  expedition. 

Tuesday  21.  We  set  out  early ;  passed  handsome  pale 
coloured  bluffs,  Willow  Creek  and  tlie  Sioux  River  on  the 
north  side :  and  having  come  upwards  of  twenty  miles, 
encamped  on  the  south  side. 

Wednesday  22.  We  proceeded  early  upon  our  voyage ; 
passed  bluffs  on  the  south  side,  where  there  is  copperas, 
allum  and  ore  of  some  kind;  also  passed  a  creek.  The 
high  land  on  the  south  side  for  nine  or  ten  miles  runs 
close  to  the  river,  where  there  are  cedar  bluffs  of  various 
colours.  We  encamped  on  the  north  side. 

Thursday  23.  We  proceeded  early  this  morning  with 
a  fair  wind.  The  river  here  becomes  more  straight  than 
we  had  found  it  for  a  great  distance  below.  Captain 
Clarke  and  one  of  the  men  killed  a  deer  and  a  buffalo,  and 
some  of  the  men  were  sent  to  dress  and  bring  the  buffalo 
to  the  boat.  We  stoped  at  a  prairie  on  the  north  side, 
the  largest  and  handsomest,  which  I  had  seen.  Captain 
Clarke  called  it  Buffalo  Prairie.  The  men  having  return- 
ed, we  again  went  on ;  but  the  wind  changed  and  we 
were  obliged  to  halt  for  the  present.  While  we  were 
detained  here,  we  salted  two  barrels  of  buffalo  meat.  At 
five  in  the  evening  we  proceeded  some  distance  and 
encamped  on  the  south  side. 

Friday  24.  This  morning  was"cloudy  with  some  rain. 
Captain  Clarke  went  by  land.  We  passed  cedar  bluffs 
on  the  north  side,  a  part  of  which  were  burning;  and  there 
are  here  to  be  found  mineral  substances  of  various  kinds. 
There  is  also  a  quantity  of  small  red  berries,  the  Indian 
name  for  whiclvm  English  means  rabbit  berries.  They 
are  handsome  small  berries  and  grow  upon  -bushes  about 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GABS.  31 

ten  feet  high.  Captain  Clarke  came  to  us  and  had  killed 
two  elk  and  a  fawn,  we  passed  a  creek  called  White-stone 
Creek ;  landed  and  remained  here  all  night  to  jirk  our 
meat. 

Saturday  25.  Two  of  our  men  last  night  caught  nine 
catfish,  that  would  together  weigh  three  hundred  pounds. 
The  large  catfish  are  caught  in  the  Missouri  with  hook 
and  line.  Captain  Lewis  and  Captain  Clarke  went  to  see 
a  hill  on  the  north  side  of  the  river  where  the  natives  will 
not,  or  pretend  that  they  will  not  venture  to  go,  and  say 
that  a  small  people  live  there,  whom  they  are  afraid  of. 
At  eleven  o'clock,  the  gentlemen  not  having  returned, 
we  set  sail  with  a  gentle  breeze  from  the  S.  E.  passed 
black  bluffs  on  the  south  side,  and  continued  on  nine 
miles  and  encamped.  Two  of  our  hunters  came  in 
who  had  killed  a  large  elk.  Captains  Lewis  and  Clarke 
did  not  return  this  evening. 

Sunday  26.  Some  of  the  men  went  out  to  dress  and 
bring  in  the  elk.  About  ten  o'clock  Captain  Lewis  and 
Captain  Clarke  with  a  party  accompanying  them  came  to 
camp;  but  had  not  been  able  to  discover  any  of  those 
small  people.  The  hill  is  in  a  handsome  prairie:  and  the 
party  saw  a  great  many  buffalo  near  it.  About  eleven 
we  renewed  our  voyage  and  passed  some  timber  land  on 
the  South  side ;  and  black  and  white  bluffs  on  the  same 
side,  we  encamped  on  the  north  side  opposite  a  creek 
called  Pettit-Ark,  or  Little-bow. 

Monday  27.  Got  under  way  at  sunrise,  and  passed 
white  bluffs  on  the  south  side.  At  two  we  stopped  for 
dinner,  and  an  Indian  of  the  Mahas  nation,  who  lives 
with  the  Sioux  came  to  us  here,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Sacque  River;  and  while  we  remained  here  two  more 
came  in.  A  Sergeant  with  our  old  Frenchman  and 
another  man  went  with  two  of  the  Indians  to  their  tamps, 
and  the  other  went  with  us  in  the  boat.  We  encamped 
on  a  sand  beach  on  the  north  side. 

Tuesday  28.  We  set  forward  early.  The  day  was 
pleasant,  and  a  fair  wind  from  S.  E.  At  eight  we  halted 
for  breakfast,  when  our  young  Indian  left  us  to  go  to  his 
oamp  at  a  handsome  prairie,  gently  rising  from  the  river 


32      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

on  the  north  side ;  a  small  distance  above  which  are 
beautiful  groves  of  Cotton  wood  on  both  sides  of  the  river. 
About  twelve  one  of  the  periogues  run  against  a  snag 
which  broke  a  hole  in  it.  We  then  crossed  to  the  south 
side  to  mend  the  periogue,  and  to  wait  to  receive  the 
Indians  we  expected;  and  landed  a  little  below  some  high 
bluffs.  Our  camp  is  in  a  wide  bottom,  in  which  are  large 
elm  and  oak  trees. 

Wednesday  29.  At  eight  o'clock  last  night  a  storm  of 
wind  and  rain  came  on  from  the  north  west,  and  the  rain 
continued  the  greater  part  of  the  night.  The  morning 
was  cloudy  with  some  thunder.  We  are  generally  well 
supplied  with  Catfish,  the  best  I  have  ever  seen.  Some 
large  ones  were  taken  last  night.  In  the  afternoon,  the 
men  who  had  gone  to  the  Indian  camp  returned,  and 
brought  with  them  sixty  Indians  of  the  Sioux  nation. 
They  encamped  for  the  evening  upon  the  opposite  shore, 
and  some  corn  and  tobacco  were  sent  over  to  them.  The 
sergeant  who  had  gone  to  their  camp  informed  me  that 
their  lodges,  forty  in  number,  are  about  nine  miles  from 
the  Missouri  on  the  Sacque  River.  They  are.  made  of 
dressed  buffalo  and  elk  skins,  painted  red  and  white,  and 
are  very  handsome.  He  said  the  women  are  homely 
and  mostly  old;  but  the  young  men  likely  and  active. 
They  killed  a  dog  as  a  token  of  friendship.  One  of  our 
men  killed  a  deer. 

Thursday  30.  A  foggy  morning,  and  heavy  dew. 
At  nine  o'clock  the  Indians  came  over  the  river.  Four 
of  them,  who  were  musicians,  went  backwards  and  for- 
wards, through  and  round  our  camp,  singing  and  making 
a  noise.  After  that  ceremony  was  over  they  all  sat  in 
council.  Captain  Lewis  and  Captain  Clarke  made  five  of 
them  chiefs,  and  gave  them  some  small  presents.  At 
dark  Captain  Lewis  gave  them  a  grained  deer  skin  to 
stretch  over  a  half  keg  for  a  drum.  When  that  was 
ready  they  all  assembled  round  some  fires  made  for  the 
purpose  :  two  of  them  beat  on  the  drum,  and  some  of  the 
rest  had  little  bags  of  undressed  skins  dried,  with  beads 
or  small  pebbles  in  them,  with  which  they  made  a  noise. 
These  are  their  instruments  of  music.  Ten  or  twelve 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  33 

acted  as  musicians,  while  twenty  or  thirty  young  men 
and  boys  engaged  in  the  dance;  which  was  continued 
during  the  night.  No  Squaws  made  their  appearance 
among  this  party. 

Friday  31.  A  clear  morning.  The  Indians  remained 
with  us  all  day,  and  got  our  old  Frenchman  to  stay  and 
go  with  their  chief  to  the  city  of  Washington.  Some  of 
them  had  round  their  necks,  strings  of  the  white  bear's 
claws,  some  of  the  claws  three  inches  long. 


CHAPTER  III. 


Saturday  Sept.  1,  1804.  We  renewed  our  voyage 
early;  passed  high  bluffs  on  the  south  side,  and  high 
prairie  land  on  the  north ;  on  this  side  the  hills  come  close 
to  the  river;  and  are  so  near  on  both  sides,  as  not  to  be 
more  than  two  miles  from  each  other.  During  last  night 
we  had  hard  wind  and  some  rain,  which  continues  to 
fall  occasionally  during  the  day.  About  one  o'clock  we 
passed  a  rich  prairie  on  the  south  side,  and  encamped  on 
the  north  side,  at  the  lower  end  of  an  island. 

Sunday  2.  At  one  o'clock  last  night  we  had  hard 
thunder,  lightning  and  rain,  which  continued  about  two 
hours.  We  set  out  early  in  the  morning,  along  the  north 
side  of  the  island:  there  is  handsome  prairie  land  on  the 
south.  Three  of  our  men  went  on  the  island  to  hunt. 
When  we  landed  for  breakfast,  we  heard  several  guns 
fired  on  the  island,  and  saw  six  elk  swimming  across  the 
river  about  a  mile  above  where  we  had  halted.  Two  of 
our  men  went  up  and  killed  one  of  them ;  those  on  the 
island  killed  three.  About  twelve,  the  wind  blew  so  hard 
down  the  river,  that  we  could  not  proceed,  and  we  land- 
ed on  the  north  side,  where  there  is  an  extensive  prairie. 
It  was  cloudy  and  rained  till  four,  when  it  cleared  up. 
We  remained  here  for  the  night  and  dried  our  meat. 
On  the  bank  opposite  our  camp  is  an  ancient  fortification 
3 


34      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

or  breastwork  similar  to  those  which  have  been  occasion- 
ally discovered  on  the  western  waters.  The  two  ends 
run  at  right  angles  to  the  river,  and  the  outside,  which  is 
twenty-five  hundred  yards  in  length,  parallel  to  it:  there 
is  no  breastwork  thrown  up  next  to  the  river,  the  bank 
as  is  supposed,  serving  as  a  sufficient  defence  on  that 
side.* 

Monday  3.  We  set  out  early,  and  had  a  clear  day; 
passed  yellow  bluffs  on  the  north  side,  and  a  small  creek, 
called  Plum  Creek.  Here  the  river  turns  at  right  angles 
to  the  left,  till  it  reaches  the  hills  on  the  south  side, 
then  winds  gradually  to  the  right.  There  is  no  timber 
in  this  part  of  the  country ;  but  continued  prairie  on  both 
sides  of  the  river.  A  person  by  going  on  one  of  the  hills 
may  have  a  view  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach  without  any 
obstruction  or  intervening  object;  and  enjoy  the  most 
delightful  prospects.  During  this  day's  voyage  we  found 
the  hills  on  the  opposite  sides  of  the  river  generally  not 
more  than  two  miles  apart,  and  the  river  meandering 
through  them  in  various  directions.  We  encamped  on 
the  south  side. 

Tuesday  4.  We  proceeded  on  our  voyage,  passed  a 
creek  on  the  south  side  about  thirty  yards  wide,  called 
Paint  Creek;  and  high  yellow  bluffs  on  the  same  side. 

*  The  description  of  this  Breastwork  corresponds  exactly  with 
the  accounts  given  of  numerous  ancient  fortifications  discovered 
in  the  Western  Country,  which  are  known  and  represented  to 
be  generally  of  an  oblong  form,  situated  on  strong  and  well  chosen 
ground,  and  contiguous  to  water.  These  works  from  the  examina- 
tions which  have  been  made,  are  supposed  to  have  been  erected 
more  than  one  thousand  years  ago;  or  seven  hundred  before  the 
discovery  of  America  by  Columbus.  They  appear  to  have  existed 
about  the  same  period,  throughout  all,  or  the  greater  part  of  that 
vast  tract  of  Country  bounded  by  the  Alleghany  Mountains  on 
the  East,  and  the  Rocky  Mountains  on  the  West,  and  including 
the  most  favourable  latitudes  of  North  America.  Perhaps  some 
have  been  found  East  of  the  Alleghany  Mountains.  Have 
numerous  ancient  nations,  more  civilized  and  disposed  to  labor 
than  any  of  the  modern  Indian  tribes,  inhabited  this  country? 
And  have  these  fortifications  been  their  humble  substitutes  for 
the  walled  and  fortified  cities  of  the  old  world  in  remote  ages? 
Or,  has  this  been  the  Roman  Empire  of  the  New  World?  And 
has  it  been  destroyed  by  other  hordes  of  barbarians,  as  fierce  and 
cruel  as  those  who  destroyed  that  of  the  old.  -•  «  i 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  35 

About  a  mile  and  a  half  further  we  passed  another  creek 
on  the  same  side  50  yards  wide  called  White-paint  Creek; 
and  yellow  bluffs  on  the  north  side.  About  four  miles 
higher  up,  we  passed  a  river,  on  the  south  side,  152  yards 
wide,  called  Rapidwater  River:  Up  this  river  the  Poncas 
nation  of  Indians  lived  not  long  since.  We  encamped 
on  the  south  side  among  some  cedar  trees. 

Wednesday  5.  We  set  sail  early  this  morning  with 
a  fair  wind,  and  had  a  clear  day.  We  passed  a  long 
island  covered  with  timber,  and  three  men  went  to  hunt 
on  it.  On  the  north  side  are  yellow  bluffs,  out  of  which 
issue  several  beautiful  springs.  Opposite  the  head  of  the 
island,  on  the  south  side,  flows  in  a  river,  called  Pania 
River;  and  about  three  miles  higher  up,  on  the  north  side, 
a  creek,  called  Goat  Creek.  On  the  hills  above  this 
creek,  we  saw  some  goats  or  antelopes,  which  the  French 
call  cabres.  About  four  we  encamped  on  an  island,  where 
we  made  and  put  in  a  new  mast.  The  three  men,  who 
went  to  hunt  on  long  island  killed  a  deer  and  an  elk ;  and 
two  more  went  out  from  camp  and  killed  another  deer 
and  an  elk,  both  young. 

Thursday  6.  We  set  out  early  and  had  a  cloudy 
morning:  passed  a  handsome  bottom  prairie  on  the  north 
side ;  at  the  upper  end  of  which  is  a  grove  of  cotton  wood, 
and  a  long  range  of  dark  coloured  bluffs  on  the  south 
side.  About  9  o'clock  it  began  to  rain  and  we  had  strong 
wind  ahead.  There  are  a  great  number  of  sand  bars, 
and  we  had  much  difficulty  in  getting  along.  We  en- 
camped on  the  north  side,  and  one  of  our  men  killed  two 
deer. 

Friday  7.  We  set  sail  early,  and  had  a  clear  day: 
passed  high  prairie  land  on  both  sides ;  but  there  is  some 
cotton  wood  on  the  low  points  in  the  bottoms.  On  the 
south  side  we  found  a  scaffold  of  meat  neatly  dried. 
This  had  been  left  by  one  of  our  men,  who  had  gone  out 
on  the  26th  of  last  month  to  hunt  the  horses,  and  suppo- 
sing we  had  got  a  distance  ahead,  proceeded  up  the  river 
several  days  journey,  before  he  discovered  his  error. 
Captain  Lewis  and  Captain  Clarke  with  some  of  the  men 
went  to  view  a  round  knob  of  a  hill  in  a  prairie,  and  on 


36      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

their  return  killed  a  prairie  dog,  in  size  about  that  of  the 
smallest  species  of  domestic  dogs. 

Having  understood  that  the  village  of  those  small  dogs 
was  at  a  short  distance  from  our  camp,  Captain  Lewis  and 
Captain  Clarke  with  all  the  party,  except  the  guard,  went 
to  it  and  took  with  them  all  the  kettles  and  other  vessels 
for  holding  water;  in  order  to  drive  the  animals  out  of 
their  holes  by  pouring  in  water;  but  though  they  worked 
at  the  business  till  night  they  only  caught  one  of  them. 

Saturday  8.  We  proceeded  early  on  our  voyage,  and  had 
a  clear  day  and  a  fair  wind  from  the  S.  E.  Passed  the  bed 
of  a  creek  without  water.  At  9  o'clock  1  went  out  with 
one  of  our  men,  who  had  killed  a  buffalo  and  left  his 
hat  to  keep  off  the  vermin  and  beasts  of  prey;  but  when 
we  came  to  the  place,  we  found  the  wolves  had  devoured 
the  carcass  and  carried  off  the  hat.  Here  we  found  a 
white  wolf  dead  supposed  to  have  been  killed  in  a  contest 
for  the  buffalo.  We  passed  high  bluffs  on  the  south  side 
and  a  burnt  prairie  on  the  north.  We  encamped  on  an 
island  covered  with  timber;  and  having  a  number  of 
buffalo  on  it.  Captain  Lewis  who  had  been  out  with 
some  of  the  men  hunting,  informed  us  he  had  passed  a 
trading  house  built  in  1796.  This  day  we  killed  two 
buffalo,  a  large  and  a  small  elk,  a  deer  and  two  beaver. 

Sunday  9.  We  set  out  early,  and  passed  two  small 
creeks  on  the  north  side,  high  bluffs  on  the  south,  and 
at  1  o'clock  landed  for  dinner  at  a  small  creek  on  the 
south  side.  One  of  our  hunters  brought  in  a  deer  and 
two  fawns.  This  day  we  saw  several  gangs  or  herds,  of 
buffalo  on  the  sides  of  the  hills:  One  of  our  hunters 
killed  one,  and  Captain  Clarke's  black  servant  killed  two. 
We  encamped  at  sunset  on  the  south  side. 

Monday  10.  We  had  a  foggy  morning,  but  moved 
on  early;  passed  high  bluffs  on  the  north  side,  and  saw 
some  timber  in  the  bottom  on  the  south  side.  At  12 
o'clock  we  came  to  black  sulphur  bluffs  on  the  south 
side.  On  the  top  of  these  bluffs  we  found  the  skeleton 
or  back  bones  of  a  fish,  45  feet  long,  and  petrified:  part 
of  these  bones  were  sent  to  the  City  of  Washington. 
One  of  our  sergeants  discovered  a  large  salt  spring  about 
a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  river.  A  hunter  went  up  the 


AS  RELATED  BT  PATRICK  GASS.  3T 

bank  and  killed  an  elk.  We  left  a  pcriogue  for  the 
men  who  were  dressing  the  elk,  and  proceeded  up  the 
north  side  of  the  river  two  miles,  when  we  were  obliged 
to  return  on  account  of  sand  bars,  and  to  take  the  south 
side.  Here  we  saw  eight  elk  swimming  the  river,  and 
had  seen  a  great  many  buffalo  during  the  day.  We 
encamped  on  an  island  and  killed  one  buffalo. 

Tuesday  11.  We  set  sail  before  day  light  with  a  fair 
wind ;  passed  an  island  covered  with  timber,  and  high  hills 
and  prairie  on  both  sides  of  the  river.  At  1  o'clock  it 
began  to  rain.  We  saw  some  person  coming  down  the 
river  on  horseback,  when  we  came  to  land  and  found  it 
was  the  man  who  had  proceeded  us  with  the  horses.  He 
had  left  one  of  the  horses  that  had  failed.  We  now  had 
only  one  horse  left.  This  man  had  been  absent  sixteen 
days,  and  his  bullets  being  expended,  he  subsisted  twelve 
days  almost  wholly  on  grapes.  The  hills  here  come 
close  to  the  river  on  both  sides.  One  of  the  men  went 
by  land  with  the  horse,  and  we  continued  our  voyage, 
until  night,  though  it  rained  very  hard;  and  encamped  on 
the  south  side.  Captain  Clarke  with  two  or  three  of  the 
men  who  had  gone  out  to  hunt,  killed  two  elk,  four  deer 
and  one  porcupine. 

Wednesday  12.  We  set  out  as  usual  and  had  a  cloudy 
day;  passed  a  long  range  of  black  bluffs  on  the  south  side, 
and  an  island  covered  with  timber,  which  is  all  the  timber 
that  can  be  seen  from  this  place.  The  country  round  is 
all  hills  and  prairie.  Captain  Clarke,  myself  and  another 
went  out  to  hunt,  arid  did  not  return  until  after  dark. 
The  boat  had  much  difficulty  in  passing  on  account  of 
the  sand  bars  and  strong  current,  and  did  not  make  to 
day  more  than  four  miles. 

Thursday  13.  Four  beaver  were  taken  last  night. 
We  set  sail  early ;  the  morning  was  cloudy  with  some  rain 
and  wind  ahead ;  passed  a  creek  and  a  long  range  of  bluffs 
on  the  south  side.  Some  of  our  men  went  out  to  hunt; 
but  did  not  return  this  evening.  We  encamped  on  the 
north  side. 

Friday  14.  We  proceeded  as  yesterday,  and  with  the 
same  kind  of  weather.  Had  considerable  difficulty  in 
getting  along  on  account  of  the  shallowness  of  the  river; 


38      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

all  hands  in  the  water  dragging  the  boat.  At  eight 
we  halted  for  breakfast,  and  the  men  who  went  to  hunt 
yesterday  came  in,  and  had  only  killed  a  porcupine. 
Three  beaver  were  caught  last  night.  The  musketoes 
are  as  troublesome  as  they  have  been  any  time  in  sum- 
mer. We  passed  black  bluffs  on  the  south  side,  and  an 
island  with  timber  on  it.  Passed  a  creek  on  the  same 
side,  and  encamped  on  the  south.  The  man  who  had 
gone  by  land  with  the  horse  came  to  us  here ;  had  killed 
a  hare.  Captain  Clarke  killed  a  goat  or  antelope. 

Saturday  15.  A  cloudy  morning.  We  continued  our 
voyage  early,  and  passed  a  creek  on  the  south  side  and 
black  bluffs  on  the  north.  Passed  White  Eiver  on  the 
south  side;  one  of  the  men  and  myself  went  up  it  to 
examine  the  country,  and  encamped  about  twelve  miles 
from  the  mouth,  where  it  is  150  yards  broad.  We  found 
good  bottom  on  this  creek ;  but  timber  scarce,  and  none 
upon  the  hills.  The  current  and  the  colour  of  the  water 
are  much  like  those  of  the  Missouri. 

Sunday  16.  We  set  out  for  the  boat  across  the  hills, 
on  the  tops  of  which  are  level  plains  with  a  great  number 
of  goats  and  buffalo  on  them.  Came  to  the  head  waters 
of  a  creek,  and  kept  down  it  a  S.  E.  course,  and  on  our 
way  killed  3  deer.  We  proceeded  on  to  its  mouth,  which 
I  computed  to  be  14  miles  from  that  of  the  White  River. 
Having  found  the  boat  had  passed,  we  proceeded  up  the 
river,  and  came  to  a  handsome  bottom,  where  our  people 
had  encamped  to  dry  the  provisions  and  stores.  In  our 
absence  the  men  had  killed  some  deer  and  two  buffalo. 

Monday  17.  As  the  weather  was  fair,  we  remained 
here  during  the  day.  Captain  Lewis  and  some  men  went 
out  to  hunt,  and  killed  thirteen  common,  and  two  black- 
tailed  deer;  three  buffalo  and  a  goat.  The  wild  goat  in 
this  country  differ  from  the  common  tame  goat,  and  is 
supposed  to  be  the  real  antelope.  The  black-tailed,  or 
mule  deer  have  much  larger  ears  than  the  common  deer 
and  tails  almost  without  hair,  except  at  the  end,  whero 
there  is  a  bunch  of  black  hair.  There  is  another  species 
of  deer  in  this  country  with  small  horns  and  long  tails. 
The  tail  of  one  which  we  killed  was  18  inches  long. 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  39 

One  of  our  men  caught  a  beaver,  and  killed  a  prairie  wolf. 
These  are  a  small  species  of  wolves,  something  larger 
than  a  fox,  with  long  tails  and  short  ears. 

Tuesday  18.  We  continued  our  voyage;  the  day  was 
clear  and  pleasant:  passed  some  timber  land  on  the  south 
side,  and  hills  and  prairies  on  the  north ;  also  an  island 
and  a  great  number  of  sand  bars.  Yesterday  Captain 
Lewis  while  hunting,  killed  a  bird  not  common  in  the 
states :  it  is  like  a  Magpie  and  is  a  bird  of  prey.  This 
day  we  killed  eleven  deer  and  a  wolf,  and  halted,  and 
encamped  on  the  south  side  of  the  river  in  order  to  jirk 
our  meat. 

Wednesday  19.  We  set  out  early,  and  had  a  clear  day 
passed  large  bottoms  on  both  sides  of  the  river  covered 
with  timber.  We  saw  some  buffalo  swimming  the  river 
and  killed  two  of  them.  There  is  an  island  here,  oppo- 
site which  a  river  flows  in  on  the  north  side.  This  river 
is  formed  of  three,  which  unite  their  waters  just  above  its 
mouth ;  and  immediately  above  the  confluence  is  a  cross- 
ing place,  called  the  Sioux  crossing  place  of  the  three 
rivers.  At  the  upper  end,  a  creek,  called  Elm  Creek, 
comes  in  on  the  south  side,  and  two  miles  above  another 
creek  called  Wash  Creek,  falls  in  on  the  same  side. 
About  two  miles  further  we  passed  another  creek  called 
Night  Creek,  where  we  encamped  on  the  south  side. 
Three  black  tailed  deer  were  killed  this  day. 

Thursday  20.  We  renewed  our  voyage  at  an  early 
hour,  and  had  a  clear  day  and  fair  wind.  Passed  hand- 
some rising  prairies  on  the  north  side,  and  bottoms  covered 
with  timber  on  the  south  side.  Two  of  the  men  with  the 
horse  went  across  the  neck  of  the  Long,  or  Grand  bend, 
which  we  were  obliged  to  go  around  with  the  boat,  a  dis- 
tance of  thirty  miles.  At  1  o'clock  we  stopped  for  din- 
ner, and  Captain  Lewis  and  one  of  the  men  went  to 
hunt,  Captain  Clarke  had  gone  out  in  the  morning.  At 
2  o'clock  we  proceeded  again  on  our  voyage,  and  pass- 
ed a  long  chain  of  bluffs  on  the  north  side,  of  a  dark 
colour.  From  these  and  others  of  the  same  kind,  the 
Missouri  gets  its  muddy  colour.  The  earth  of  which 
they  are  composed,  dissolves  like  sugar;  every  rain 


40 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  41 

washes  down  great  quantities  of  it,  and  the  rapidity  of 
the  stream  keeps  it  mixing  and  afloat  in  the  water,  until 
it  reaches  the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi.  We  encamped 
at  7  o'clock  on  a  sand  beach  on  the  north  side.  Here 
Captain  Lewis,  Captain  Clarke  and  the  other  man  joined 
us.  They  had  killed  two  goats  and  two  deer.  At  one 
o'clock  at  night,  the  bank  where  we  were  stationed  began 
to  fall  so  much,  that  we  were  obliged  to  rouse  all  hands, 
and  go  on  a  mile  and  cross  the  river  before  we  could 
again  encamp. 

Friday  21.  We  set  out  early,  the  day  was  clear, 
and  we  proceeded  on  four  miles  along  bluffs  on  the  south 
side,  when  we  came  to  the  termination  of  the  Grand  Bend, 
about  a  mile  from  the  place  of  our  encampment  on  the 
19th.  We  again  went  on,  having  black  bluffs  on  the 
south,  and  a  handsome  bottom  on  the  north  side;  and 
beyond  these  a  cedar  bottom  on  the  south  side,  and  bluffs 
on  the  north;  passed  a  creek  on  the  south  side,  called 
Tyler's  Creek;  and  encamped  on  the  north  side. 

Saturday  22.  We  embarked  early  in  a  foggy  morning, 
saw  some  timber  on  the  south  side,  and  high  plains  on 
the  north.  About  3  o'clock  we  passed  Cedar  Island,  one 
of  the  Three-Sisters,  where  Mr.  Lucelle  had  built  a  fort 
of  cedar.  The  space  picketed  in  is  about  65  or  70  feet 
square,  with  centry  boxes  in  two  of  the  angles.  The 
pickets  are  thirteen  and  a  half  feet  above  ground.  In  this 
square  he  built  a  house  45J  by  32|  feet,  and  divided  it 
into  four  equal  parts,  one  for  goods,  one  to  trade  in, 
one  to  be  used  as  a  common  hall,  and  the  other  for  a 
family  house.  Here  the  two  men  came  to  us  with  the 
horse.  They  had  killed  a  white  wolf  and  some  deer. 
We  proceeded  on,  passed  a  creek,  and  islands  of  the 
Three-Sisters;  and  an  old  Indian  camp,  where  we  found 
some  of  their  dog-poles,  which  answer  for  setting  poles. 
The  reason  they  are  called  dog-poles,  is  because  the 
Indians  fasten  their  dogs  to  them,  and  make  them  draw 
them  from  one  camp  to  another  loaded  with  skins  and 
other  articles.*  We  encamped  on  the  north  side. 

*Mr.  Makenz'e  speakingf  of  the  Knisteneaui,  a  numerous 
nation  of  Indians  spread  over  a  vast  extent  of  country  extending 
south  westerly  from  the  coast  of  Labrador,  north  of  the  St. 


42  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

Sunday  23.  We  went  on  early,  and  had  a  clear 
morning;  passed  some  timber  on  the  north  side,  and 
high  land  on  the  south;  also  a  creek  on  the  north  side 
called  Smoke  Creek;  passed  Elk  Island,  a  handsome  bot- 
tom on  the  north  side  covered  with  timber  and  barren 
hills  on  the  south.  At  six  in  the  evening  we  saw  four 
Indians  on  the  south  side  and  encamped  on  the  north. 
Three  of  the  Indians  swam  over  to  us :  they  belonged  to 
the  Sioux,  and  enformed  us  that  there  were  more  of  their 
nation  not  far  distant.  We  sent  them  over  the  river 
again.  One  of  our  men  killed  an  antelope. 

Monday  24.  We  set  sail  early  with  fair  weather,  and 
passed  a  small  creek  on  the  south  side.  About  3  o'clock 
the  man  who  had  gone  by  land  with  the  horse  came  to 
us,  and  informed  us  that  he  had  gone  that  morning  on 
an  island  to  kill  elk,  and  that  while  he  was  there  the  In- 
dians had  stolen  the  horse.  He  had  killed  three  elk, 
and  the  periogues  remained  behind  to  bring  on  the  meat. 
We  saw  five  Indians  on  the  bank,  but  we  could  not 
understand  each  other.  We  cast  anchor  to  wait  for  the 
periogues;  one  of  which  having  come  up,  we  went  on  to 
the  mouth  of  the  Tinton  or  Teeton  River,  where  we  an- 
chored about  100  yards  from  the  shore  on  the  south 
side.  The  guard  and  cooks  only  landed,  the  rest  slept 
in  the  boat.  The  five  Indians  remained  with  us  all 
night.  We  had  a  Frenchmen  aboard  a  periogue,  who 
understood  and  could  speak  a  little  of  the  Sioux  language. 
The  Indians  gave  us  to  understand  the  chiefs  would 
come  to-morrow,  and  that  if  their  young  men  had  taken 
the  horse,  they  would  have  him  given  up.  These  In- 
dians are  a  band  of  Sioux,  called  the  Tinton  or  Teeton 
Band. 

Tuesday  25.  We  stayed  here  to  wait  for  the  Indians, 
who  were  expected  to  arrive  at  10  o'clock,  they  came, 
about  50  in  number.  The  commanding  officers  made 
three  of  them  chiefs,  and  gave  them  some  presents. 
Laurence  and  its  Lakes  and  the  Lake  Winnipie,  east  of  Elk  River, 
south  of  the  lake  of  the  Hills,  and  west,  south  and  east  of  James's 
Bay  and  the  southern  Part  of  Hudson's  Bay,  says,  "In  the  winter 
when  the  waters  are  frozen,  they  make  their  journies,  which  are 
never  of  any  great  length,  with  sledges-  drawn  by  dogs." 

General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade. 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  43 

Five  of  them  came  on  board  and  remained  three  hours. 
Captain  Clarke  and  some  of  our  men  in  a  periogue  went 
ashore  with  them ;  but  the  Indians  did  not  seem  disposed 
to  permit  their  return.  They  said  they  were  poor  and 
wished  to  keep  the  periogue  with  them.  Captain  Clarke 
insisted  on  coming  to  the  boat;  but  they  refused  to  let 
him,  and  said  they  had  soldiers  as  well  as  he  had.  He 
told  them  that  his  soldiers  were  good,  and  that  he  had 
more  medicine  aboard  his  boat  than  would  kill  twenty 
such  nations  in  one  day.  After  this  they  did  not  threat- 
en any  more,  and  said  they  only  wanted  us  to  stop  at 
their  lodge,  that  the  women  and  children  might  see  the 
boat.  Four  of  them  came  aboard,  when  we  proceeded 
on  a  mile,  and  cast  anchor  at  the  point  of  an  island  in 
the  middle  of  the  river.  The  Indians  remained  with  us 
all  night. 

Wednesday  26.  We  set  out  early,  and  proceeded  on 
four  miles.  The  bank  of  the  river  on  the  south  side  was 
covered  all  the  way  with  Indians;  and  at  10  o'clock  we 
met  the  whole  band,  and  anchored  about  100  yards  from 
the  shore.  Captain  Lewis,  the  chiefs,  and  some  men 
went  on  shore,  the  Indians  were  peaceable  and  kind. 
After  some  time  Captain  Lewis  returned  on  board,  and 
Captain  Clarke  went  on  shore.  When  the  Indians  saw 
him  coming  they  met  him  with  a  buffalo  robe,  spread  it 
out  and  made  him  get  into  it,  and  then  eight  of  them  car- 
ried him  to  the  council  house.  About  an  hour  after  some 
of  them  came  for  Captain  Lewis,  and  he  landed;  and 
eight  of  them  carried  him  to  the  council  house  in  the 
same  manner,  they  had  carried  Captain  Clarke.  They 
killed  several  dogs  for  our  people  to  feast  on,  and  spent 
the  greater  part  of  the  day  in  eating  and  smoking.  At 
night  the  women  assembled,  and  danced  till  1 1  o'clock: 
then  the  officers  came  on  board  with  two  chiefs,  who 
continued  with  us  until  the  morning. 

Thursday  27.  We  remained  here  all  day.  Captain 
Lewis,  myself  and  some  of  the  men  went  over  to  the 
Indian  camp.  Their  Lodges  are  about  eighty  in  number, 
and  contain  about  ten  persons  each,  the  greater  part 
women  and  children,  The  women  were  employed  in 


44  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE; 

dressing  buffalo  skins,  for  clothing  for  themselves  and 
for  covering  their  lodges.  They  are  the  most  friend- 
ly people  I  ever  saw;  but  will  pilfer  if  they  have  an 
opportunity.  They  are  also  very  dirty:  the  water  they 
make  use  of,  is  carried  in  the  paunches  of  the  animals 
they  kill,  just  as  they  are  emptied,  without  being 
cleaned.  They  gave  us  dishes  of  victuals  of  various 
kinds;  I  had  never  seen  any  thing  like  some  of  these 
dishes,  nor  could  I  tell  of  what  ingredients,  or  how  they 
were  made. 

About  fifteen  days  ago  they  had  a  battle  with  the 
Mahas,  of  whom  they  killed  seventy  five  men,  and 
took  twenty  five  women  prisoners,  whom  they  have 
now  with  them.  They  promised  to  Captain  Lewis, 
that  they  would  send  the  prisoners  back  and  make 
peace. 

About  3  o'clock  we  went  aboard  the  boat  accompanied 
with  the  old  chief  and  his  little-  son.  In  the  evening 
Captain  Clarke  and  some  of  the  men  went  over,  and 
the  Indians  made  preparations  for  a  dance.  At  dark 
it  commenced.  Captain  Lewis,  myself  and  some  of 
our  party  went  up  to  see  them  perform.  Their  band 
of  music,  or  orchestra,  was  composed  of  about  twelve 
persons  beating  on  a  buffalo  hide,  and  shaking  small 
bags  that  made  a  rattling  noise,  They  had  a  large 
fire  in  the  center  of  their  camp;  on  one  side  the 
women,  about  eighty  in  number,  formed  in  a  solid 
column  round  the  fire,  with  sticks  in  their  hands, 
and  the  scalps  of  the  Mahas  they  had  killed,  tied 
on  them.  They  kept  moving,  or  jumping  round  the 
fire,  rising  and  falling  on  both  feet  at  once;  keeping 
a  continual  noise,  singing  and  yelling.  In  this  man- 
ner they  continued  till  1  o'clock  at  night,  when  we 
returned  to  the  boat  with  two  of  the  chiefs.  On  coming 
aboard,  the  periogue  run  across  the  bow  of  the  boat  and 
broke  the  cable.  All  hands  were  roused  to  row  the 
boat  ashore;  the  chiefs  called  aloud,  and  a  number 
of  the  warriors  came  to  our  assistance,  but  we  did 
not  need  it;  the  circumstance,  however,  shewed  their 
disposition  to  be  of  service.  This  unfortunate  accident 
lost  to  us  our  anchor. 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  45 

Friday  28.  This  morning  we  dragged  the  river 
all  round  where  the  boat  lay,  but  could  not  find  the 
anchor.  At  9  o'clock  we  made  preparations  to  sail; 
some  of  the  chiefs  were  on  board,  and  concluded 
to  go  some  distance  with  us.  When  we  went  to  shove 
off,  some  of  the  the  Indians  took  hold  of  the  rope  and 
would  not  let  it  go.  This  conduct  had  like  to  be  atten- 
ded with  bad  consequences,  as  Captain  Lewis  was  near 
giving  orders  to  cut  the  rope  and  to  fire  on  them. 
The  chiefs,  however,  went  out  and  talked  with  them: 
they  said  they  wanted  a  carrot  of  tobacco,  and  that 
if  we  gave  that  we  might  go.  The  tobacco  was  given 
them,  and  we  went  off  under  a  gentle  breeze  of  wind. 
We  passed  high  land  on  the  north  side,  and  bottom 
on  the  south.  We  proceeded  four  miles,  and  then 
saw  an  Indian  following  us  along  the  beach,  when 
Captain  Lewis,  went  in  a  periogue  and  brought  him  on 
board.  He  informed  us  that  three  hundred  more 
Indians  had  come  to  their  camp,  and  desired  we 
should  stop  and  talk  with  them.  We  did  not  then 
stop,  but  proceeded  on,  and  he  remained  on  board. 
We  passed  a  fine  bottom  covered  with  timber  on  the 
north  side,  and  bare  hills  on  the  south.  We  made  two 
large  stones  serve  the  purpose  of  an  anchor,  and  at 
sunset  anchored  for  the  night,  near  a  small  sand-bar 
in  the  middle  of  the  river. 

While  I  was  at  the  Indian  camp  yesterday  they  yoked 
a  dog  to  a  kind  of  car,  which  they  have  to  haul  their 
baggage  from  one  camp  to  another;  the  nation  having 
no  settled  place  or  village,  but  are  always  moving 
about.*  The  dogs  are  not  large,  much  resemble  a  wolf, 
and  will  haul  about  seventy  pounds  each. 


*  It  appears  that  these  people,  (in  some  respects  resembling 
the  wandering  Arabs)  are  an  unsettled,  ferocious,  blood-thirsty- 
race,  and  have  been  great  destroyers  of  the  Algonquin  nation, 
who  inhabit  the  country  about  lake.  Superior.  Mr.  M'Kenzie 
states  the  following  circumstance,  "Within  three  miles  of  the 
last  portage"  (a  place  near  lake  Superior)  "is  a  remarkable  rock. 


46  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Saturday  29.  We  set  sail  early  and  had  fair  weather; 
passed  a  handsome  bottom  covered  with  timber  on  the 
north  side,  and  bluffs  on  the  south.  We  saw  several 
Indians  on  the  south  side  walking  up  the  shore ;  spoke 
to  them  and  found  they  were  some  of  those  we  left 
yesterday.  They  requested  us  to  give  them  a  carrot  of 
tobacco  for  the  chiefs  of  the  other  band  to  smoke. 
We  sent  them  two  carrots  to  a  sand  bar,  where  they 
could  get  it;  but  told  them  we  should  not  go  on  shore 
again,  until  we  came  to  the  nation  of  the  Aricaris, 
commonly  called  Rickarees,  Rickrees,  or  Rees.  The 
Missouri  is  very  shallow  at  this  time  and  full  of  sand 
bars.  We  passed  an  old  village  on  the  south  side, 
where  the  Rickarees  lived  five  years  ago,  and  raised 
corn  in  the  bottom,  around  the  village.  We  encamped 
on  a  sand  beach  on  the  south  side  of  the  river. 

Sunday  30.  We  set  out  early,  in  a  cloudy  morning; 
passed  black  bluffs  on  the  south  side,  and  handsome  bot- 
tom prairie  on  the  north ;  saw  an  Indian  on  the  shore, 
and  the  chief  we  had  on  board  spoke  to  him.  He  said 
he  wished  to  come  on  board  and  go  with  us  to  the 
Rees ;  but  we  did  not  take  him.  The  wind  was  fair 
and  we  made  nine  miles  by  10  o'clock.  We  saw  a 
great  number  of  Indians  coming  down  to  the  river  on 
the  south  side.  We  stopt  for  breakfast  about  200  yards 
from  the  shore;  then  proceeded  about  a  mile;  near 
to  the  place  where  the  Indians  were  encamped  on  the 

with  a  smooth  face,  but  split  and  cracked  in  different  parts, 
which  hang  over  the  water.  Into  one  of  its  horizontal  chasms 
a  great  number  of  arrows  have  been  shot,  which  is  said  to  havo 
been  done  by  a  war  party  of  the  Nadowasjs  or  Sieux,  who  had  done 
much  mischief  in  this  country,  and  left  these  weapons  as  a 
warning  to  the  Chebois  or  natives,  that,  notwithstanding  its  lakes, 
rivers  and  rocks,  it  was  not  inaccessible  to  their  enemies." 

General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade. 


48  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

south  side ;  we  halted  and  spoke  to  them  and  then  went 
on  under  a  fine  breeze  of  wind. 

A  short  time  before  night,  the  waves  ran  very  high 
and  the  boat  rocked  a  great  deal,  which  so  alarmed  our 
old  chief,  that  he  would  not  go  any  further.  We 
encamped  on  the  north  side. 

Monday  October  1,  1804.  We  early  continued  our 
voyage,  the  morning  was  cloudy  but  the  wind  fair  and 
we  sailed  rapidly.  At  nine  we  passed  the  River  De 
Chien,  or  Dog  River;  a  large  river  that  comes  in  on 
the  south  side.  A  short  distance  above  this  river,  the 
sand  bars  are  so  numerous,  that  we  had  great  difficulty 
to  get  along,  and  encamped  on  one  in  the  middle  of  the 
river.  There  were  some  French  traders  on  the  other 
bank  of  the  river,  and  one  of  them  came  over  and 
remained  with  us  all  night. 

Tuesday  2.  We  set  sail  before  daylight.  A  French- 
man came  on  board,  who  could  speak  English.  He 
mentioned  it  as  his  opinion,  that  we  should  see  no  more 
Indians,  until  we  should  arrive  at  the  nation  of  Rees. 
We  passed  a  range  of  black  bluffs  on  the  north  side  and 
a  large  bottom  on  the  south,  where  there  was  some  tim- 
ber on  the  bank  of  the  river.  About  2  o'clock  we 
discovered  some  Indians  on  the  hills  on  the  north  side, 
and  one  of  them  came  down  to  the  bank  and  fired  a  gun; 
the  object  or  intention  we  did  not  well  understand,  but  were 
ready  to  meet  an  attack.  We  passed  black  bluffs  on  the 
south  side,  an  island  covered  with  timber,  and  a  handsome 
bottom  on  the  north  side.  We  halted  and  spoke  to  the 
Indian,  who  said  he  belonged  to  the  Jonkta  or  Babarole 
Band,  and  that  there  were  twenty  lodges  of  them.  We 
told  him  we  had  seen  two  of  their  chiefs,  and  given  them 
a  flag  and  medal.  We  passed  a  creek  on  the  south  side, 
and  encamped  on  a  sandbar  in  the  middle  of  the  river. 

Wednesday  3.  The  morning  was  cloudy,  and  some 
rain  fell.  The  land  is  high  on  both  sides  of  the  river. 
About  1 2  o'clock  the  wind  began  to  blow  so  hard  down 
the  stream  that  we  were  unable  to  proceed,  and  we  halted 
under  some  high  bluffs,  where  driftwood  was  plenty. 
At  three  we  continued  our  voyage;  passed  a  long  range 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  49 

of  dark  coloured  bluffs  on  the  south  side  and  bottom, 
with  some  timber,  on  the  north.  We  encamped  on  the 
south  side. 

Thursday  4.  We  set  out  early;  but  were  obliged 
to  return  to  the  place  where  we  halted  yesterday  at 
twelve  and  to  take  the  other  side  of  the  river;  the 
water  was  so  shallow  and  sand  bars  so  numerous. 
At  9  o'clock  an  Indian  swam  across  the  river  to  see 
us,  when  we  stopped  for  breakfast.  We  informed  him 
that  we  were  not  traders,  that  we  had  seen  his  chief  and 
told  him  all  we  had  to  say.  We  proceeded  on,  passed 
a  creek  on  the  south  side,  called  Teel  Creek,  and 
encamped  on  the  upper  part  of  an  island. 

Friday  5.  This  morning  there  was  a  white  frost;  the 
day  clear  and  pleasant.  About  eleven  we  saw  some 
goats  swimming  the  river,  when  one  of  our  hunters  ran 
up  the  shore  and  killed  four  of  them,  and  we  took  them 
into  the  boat  and  periogues  as  they  floated  down.  We 
passed  a  creek  on  the  north  side,  called  Hidden  Creek, 
and  high  black  bluffs  on  the  south  side.*  Some  of  our 
hunters  having  gone  on  an  island  to  hunt,  and  scared  a 
prairie  wolf  in  the  river,  which  we  killed.  We  passed 
a  creek  on  the  south  side  called  White  Goat  Creek  and 
encamped  on  the  north  side. 

Saturday  6.  We  continued  our  voyage  early,  and 
had  a  clear  day ;  passed  bluffs  on  the  south  side,  and  a 
bottom  covered  with  timber  on  the  north.  About  eleven 
we  passed  a  handsome  bottom,  where  a  band  of  the 
Rees  lived  last  winter.  They  had  left  a  number  of 
round  huts  covered  with  earth,  some  of  their  water  craft 
made  of  buffalo  hides,  and  some  garden  truck,  such  as 
squashes.  We  proceeded  on  and  passed  a  small  creek 
on  the  south  side;  a  handsome  bottom  on  the  north;  and 
encamped  on  a  sand  beach  on  the  north  side. 

Sunday  7.     We  set  forward   early,  and   had  a  clear 

*To  prevent  mistakes,  owing  to  the  very  winding  course  of 
the  river,  Starbord  side  and  Larboard  side  were  made  use  of  in 
the  original  journal,  instead  of  north  side  and  south  side;  during 
the  remainder  of  the  voyage  up  the  Missouri;  but  have  been 
changed  to  north  side  and  south  side,  as  being  better  under- 
stood, and  sufficiently  representing  the  general  course  of  the  river. 
4 


50      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

day:  passed  a  willow  bottom  on  the  south  side,  and  a 
creek  on  the  north.  At  the  beginning  of  some  timber 
land  we  passed  a  small  river  on  the  south  side,  called 
Cer-wer-cer-na,  about  90  yards  wide.  It  is  not  so  sandy 
as  the  Missouri,  and  the  water  is  clear  with  a  deep  chan- 
nel. At  the  mouth  of  this  river  is  a  wintering  camp  of 
the  Bickarees  of  60  lodges.  We  saw  two  Sioux  Indians 
on  the  north  side,  gave  them  some  meat  and  proceeded 
on.  We  passed  an  island,  on  which  Captain  Clarke 
and  one  of  the  men  went  to  hunt  and  killed  a  deer 
and  prarow.  We  encamped  on  the  north  side  opposite 
the  head  of  the  island. 

Monday  8.  The  morning  was  pleasant,  and  we  set 
out  early:  passed  high  land  on  the  south  side,  and  bottom 
on  the  north.  The  river  here  is  very  shallow  and  lull 
of  sand  bars.  We  passed  a  run  on  the  south  side  called 
Slate  Run.  Two  of  our  hunters  went  out  to  some  timber 
land  on  the  north  side  to  look  for  game.  At  twelve  we 
came  to  a  river  on  the  south  side,  120  yards  wide,  called 
the  Marapa,  where  we  halted  for  dinner.  The  hunters 
came  up,  but  had  killed  nothing.  We  passed  a  long 
range  of  hills  on  the  north  side ;  about  two  miles  from  the 
Marapa  we  passed  a  creek  25  yards  wide;  and  about 
four  miles  further  came  to  an  island,  where  one  band  of 
the  Rickarees  live,  and  encamped  at  the  upper  end. 

Tuesday  9.  The  day  was  stormy,  and  we  remained 
here  preparing  to  hold  a  Council  with  the  nation.  Capt. 
Lewis  with  some  of  the  men  went  down  to  their  lodges, 
and  were  used  very  kindly  and  friendly.  Two  Friench- 
men  live  with  them,  one  to  trade,  and  the  other  to  inter- 
pret. 

Wednesday  10.  This  day  I  went  with  some  of  the 
men  to  the  ^dges,  about  60  in  number.  The  following 
is  a  description  of  the  form  of  these  lodges,  and  the  man- 
ner of  building  them. 

In  a  circle  of  a  size  suited  to  the  dimension,  of  the 
intended  lodge,  they  set  up  16  forked  posts  five  or 
six  feet  high,  and  lay  poles  from  one  fork  to  another. 
Against  these  poles  they  lean  other  poles,  slanting  from 
the  ground,  and  extending  about  four  inches  above  the 


52      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

cross  poles:  these  are  to  receive  the  ends  of  the  upper 
poles,  that  support  the  roof.  They  next  set  up  four 
large  forks,  fifteen  feet  high,  and  about  ten  feet  apart, 
in  the  middle  of  the  area,  and  poles  or  beams  between 
these.  The  roof  poles  are  then  laid  on  extending  from 
the  lower  poles  across  the  beams  which  rest  on  the  mid- 
dle forks,  of  such  a  length  as  to  leave  a  hole  at  the  top 
for  a  chimney.  The  whole  is  then  covered  with  willow 
branches,  except  the  chimney  and  a  hole  to  pass 
through.  On  the  willow  branches  they  lay  grass  and 
lastly  clay.  At  the  hole  below,  they  build  a  pen 
about  four  feet  wide,  and  projecting  ten  feet  from  the  hut, 
and  hang  a  buffalo  skin  at  the  entrance  of  the  hut  for  a 
door.  This  labor  like  every  other  kind  is  chiefly  per- 
formed by  the  squaws.  They  raise  corn,  beans  and 
tobacco.  Their  tobacco  is  different  from  any  I  had 
before  seen:  it  answers  for  smoking,  but  not  for  chewing. 
On  our  return,  I  crossed  from  the  island  to  the  boat,  with 
two  squaws  in  a  buffalo  skin  stretched  on  a  frame  made 
of  boughs,  wove  together  like  a  crate  or  basket  for  that 
purpose.  Captain  Lewis  and  Captain  Clarke  held  a 
Council  with  the  Indians,  and  gave  them  some  presents. 
Thursday  11.  A  clear  day.  We  waited  for  an 
answer  from  the  Indians.  About  12  o'clock,  they  came, 
and  brought  some  corn,  beans  and  squashes,  which  they 
presented  to  us.  The  chief  said  he  was  glad  to  see  us, 
and  wished  our  commanding  officers  would  speak  a  good 
word  for  them  to  the  Mandans;  for  they  wanted  to  be  at 
peace  with  them,  These  are  the  best  looking  Indians  1 
have  ever  seen.  At  1  o'clock  P.  M.  we  proceeded  on 
our  voyage ;  passed  a  creek  on  the  south  side  20  yards 
wide,  and  a  handsome  bottom  covered  with  timber.  Hav- 
ing made  about  four  miles,  we  came  to  the  second 
Village  of  the  Rickarees,  situated  in  a  prairie  on  the 
south  side.  They  had  the  American  flag  hoisted  which 
Captain  Lewis  gave  them  yesterday.  Their  lodges  are 
similar  to  those  in  the  first  Village,  and  the  same,  or 
perhaps  more  in  number.  They  are  the  most  cleanly 
Indians  I  have  ever  seen  on  the  voyage;  as  well  as  the 
most  friendly  and  industrious.  We  anchored  about  50 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  53 

I  yards  from  shore,  and  sent  a  periogue  over  the    river 

j  for  wood.     We  all  slept  on  board  except  the  cooks,  who 
went  on  shore  to  prepare  provisions  for  the  next  day. 
Friday  12.  We  had  a  pleasant  morning,  and  remained 

I  here  the  forenoon  to  hear  the  chief  of  this  village  speak. 
Last  night  the  Indians  stole  an  ax  from  our  cook,  which 

j  of  course  in  some  degree  diminished  our  confidence,  and 
lessened  the  amicable  character  we  had  conceived  of 
them.  At  9  o'clock,  Captain  Lewis,  Captain  Clarke  and 
myself  went  to  the  second  Village,  and  talked  with  its 
chief:  then  to  the  third  Village,  about  half  a  mile  beyond 
a  small  creek,  and  talked  with  the  chief  of  that  Village ; 
and  got  some  corn  and  beans  from  them.  The  third 
Village  is  nearly  of  the  same  size  of  the  second,  and 
has  in  it  a  great  number  of  handsome  and  smart  women 
and  children:  the  men  are  mostly  out  hunting.  About 
twelve  we  left  the  village,  and  proceeded  on  our  voyage. 
One  of  the  natives  agreed  to  go  with  us  as  far  as  the 
Mandans.  We  encamped  on  the  north  side.  After  dark 
we  heard  some  person  hallooing  on  the  opposite  shore  ; 
and  a  periogue  went  over  and  brought  an  Indian  and  two 
squaws,  who  remained  with  us  all  night. 

Saturday  13.  We  proceeded  on  early  and  had  a 
cloudy  day;  passed  Pond  River  on  the  north  side,  about 
50  yards  wide.  One  of  the  squaws  went  on  with  us. 
At  twelve  it  rained  some,  and  we  halted  to  hold  a  court 
martial.  At  two  continued  our  voyage,  and  did  not  get 
landing  until  after  dark,  the  bank  was  so  high  and  steep 
on  one  side,  and  the  water  so  shallow  on  the  other.  We 
encamped  on  the  north  side. 

Sunday  14.  We  had  a  cloudy  morning  and  some  rain. 
We  proceeded  early  on  our  voyage;  passed  a  bottom 
covered  with  timber  on  the  south  side,  and  low  ground 
covered  with  willows  on  the  north ;  passed  a  creek  and 
black  bluffs  on  the  south  side,  and  encamped  on  the  north. 
It  rained  slowly  during  the  whole  day. 

Monday  15.  It  rained  all  last  night,  and  we  set  out 
early  in  a  cloudy  morning.  At  seven  we  saw  a  hunting 
party  of  the  Rickerees,  on  their  way  down  to  the  vill- 
ages. They  had  twelve  buffalo  skin  canoes  or  boats 


54      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

ladened  with  meat  and  skins;  besides  some  horses  that 
were  going  down  the  bank  by  land.  They  gave  us  a 
part  of  their  meat.  The  party  consisted  of  men,  women 
and  children.  At  eight  we  went  on  again;  passed  a 
fine  bottom  covered  with  cotton  wood  on  the  north  side, 
and  naked  hills  on  the  south.  About  ten,  we  saw  anoth- 
er party  of  hunters,  who  asked  us  to  eat,  and  gave  us 
some  meat.  One  of  these  requested  to  speak  with  our 
young  squaw,  who  for  some  time  hid  herself,  but  at  last 
came  out  and  spoke  with  him.  She  then  went  on  shore 
and  talked  with  him,  and  gave  him  a  pair  of  ear-rings 
and  drops  for  leave  to  come  with  us ;  and  when  the  horn 
blew  for  all  hands  to  come  on  board,  she  left  them  and 
came  to  the  boat.  We  passed  a  creek  on  the  south  side, 
and  encampod  at  dusk  on  the  north;  where  there  was  a 
party  of  Indians,  about  thirty  in  number.  Our  squaw 
remained  with  this  party.  They  gave  us  some  meat, 
and  appeared  very  glad  to  see.  us. 

Tuesday  16.  We  early  renewed  our  voyage;  and 
had  a  clear  morning,  passed  a  creek  on  the  south  side. 
The  timber  is  more  plenty  than  it  has  been  for  a  con- 
siderable distance  down  the  river.  The  sand  bars,  gave 
us  a  great  deal  of  trouble,  and  much  retarded  our  pro- 
gress. In  the  evening  a  short  time  before  we  encamped, 
we  met  with  another  hunting  party  of  the  Rickarees. 
They  had  a  flock  of  goats,  or  antelopes,  in  the  river,  and 
killed  upwards  of  forty  of  them.  Captain  Lewis,  and 
one  of  our  hunters  went  out  and  killed  three  of  the  same 
flock.  We  encamped  on  the  south  side.  This  day  we 
saw  more  than  a  hundred  goats. 

Wednesday  17.  We  renewed  our  voyage  early,  and 
had  a  clear  morning.  Last  night  eight  of  the  Indians 
came  over  to  see  us,  brought  us  some  meat  and  remained 
all  night.  Captain  Lewis,  gave  them  some  presents 
this  morning.  At  half  past  ten,  the  wind  blew  so  hard 
down  the  river  that  we  were  obliged  to  halt.  At  four 
we  proceeded  on  with  the  assistance  of  the  tow  line, 
though  the  wind  still  continued  against  us,  and  having 
made  about  two  miles,  encamped  on  the  south  side. 
Several  hunters  went  out  this  day  and  killed  six  deer: 
one  of  them  did  not  join  us  at  night. 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  55 

Thursday  18.  We  had  a  clear  pleasant  morning 
with  some  frost.  We  set  sail  early,  and  a  hunter  went 
up  each  shore.  Having  proceeded  two  miles,  we  met 
a  couple  of  Frenchmen  in  a  canoe,  who  had  been  up  at 
the  Mandan  nation  hunting,  and  met  with  a  party  of 
that  nation,  who  robbed  them  of  their  arms,  ammunition 
and  some  fur,  wich  they  had;  and  therefore  they  had  to 
return  down  the  river;  but  meeting  us,  went  back  in 
hopes  of  recovering  their  property.  We  passed  a  small 
river,  on  the  south  side  called  Cannon-ball  River. 
Several  hunters  went  out  here.  We  passed  a  creek 
on  the  north  side,  called  Fish  Creek,  on  which  I  killed 
a  deer.  At  night  we  encamped  on  the  south  side,  and 
all  the  hunters  came  in,  having  killed  six  deer,  four 
goats  and  a  pelican. 

Friday  19.  Early  this  morning  we  renewed  our 
voyage,  having  a  clear  day  and  fair  wind:  passed  a  creek 
on  the  south  side.  While  out  hunting  yesterday  I  saw 
about  300  goats  and  some  buffalo.  Deer  are  not  so 
plenty  here  as  lower  down  the  river,  but  elk,  buffalo,  and 
goats,  are  very  numerous.  Four  hunters  went  out  to 
day,  and  in  the  evening  returned  with  seven  deer  and 
three  elk.  We  encamped  on  the  north  side. 

Saturday  20.  We  were  early  under  way  this  morn- 
ing, which  was  very  pleasant.  Two  hunters  went  out 
and  at  breakfast  time  brought  a  deer  to  the  boat ;  when 
four  more  went  out.  We  passed  a  creek  on  the  north 
side,  about  20  yards  wide ;  bottom  covered  with  timber 
on  both  sides,  and  a  small  river  on  the  south  side  op- 
posite the  lower  point  of  an  island.  At  the  upper  end 
we  passed  bluffs  on  the  south  side,  and  bottom  on  the 
north.  We  this  day,  saw  a  number  of  buffalo  and  goats 
on  the  sides  of  the  hills.  We  encamped  on  the  south 
side,  and  our  hunters  came  in  having,  killed  14  deer,  a 
goat  and  a  wolf;  and  one  of  them  wounded  a  large  white 
bear. 

Sunday  21.  We  had  a  disagreeable  night  of  sleet 
and  hail.  It  snowed  during  the  forenoon,  but  we  pro- 
ceeded early  on  our  voyage,  passed  bottom  on  the  south 
side,  and  hills  on  the  north.  We  also  passed  a  small 


56      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

river  on  the  south  side  called  Chischeet  River;  and 
encamped  on  the  south  side.  Two  of  the  hunters,  who 
had  gone  out  in  the  morning  came  in,  and  had  killed  a 
buffalo  and  an  otter. 

Monday  22.  Some  snow  fell  last  night,  and  the 
morning  was  cloudy  and  cold.  We  embarked  early  and 
went  on.  At  nine  we  saw  1 1  Indians  of  the  Sioux  nation 
coming  down  from  the  Mandans,  who,  notwithstanding 
the  coldness  of  the  weather,  had  not  an  article  of  clo- 
thing except  their  breech-clouts.  At  1  o'clock  the  day 
became  clear  and  pleasant,  and  we  encamped  at  night  on 
the  south  side. 

Tuesday  23.  Some  snow  fell  last  night,  and  the 
morning  was  cloudy.  At  eight,  it  began  to  snow,  and 
continued  snowing  to  eleven,  when  it  ceased.  We  pass- 
ed the  place  where  the  Frenchmen  had  been  robbed,  but 
no  Indians  could  be  seen.  The  hills  here  are  further 
from  the  river,  than  they  are  for  some  distance  down  it; 
and  there  are  fine  large  bottoms  on  both  sides  covered 
with  cotton  wood.  We  encamped  on  the  south  side 
where  we  found  a  great  quntity  of  rabbit  berries.  Three 
hunters  were  out  to  day,  but  killed  nothing. 


CHAPTER  V. 


Wednesday  24.  We  set  out  early  in  a  cloudy  morn- 
ing. At  nine,  it  began  to  rain  and  continued  to  rain 
for  an  hour.  At  twelve, we  came  to  a  hunting  party 
of  the  Mandan  nation  of  Indians,  and  remained  with 
them  until  two  and  then  continued  our  voyage.  There 
were  three  lodges  of  these  Indians  on  an  island,  which 
has  been  cut  off  the  Grand  Bend,  a  short  distance 
below  the  Mandan  village.  We  encamped  on  the  north 
side.  Five  of  the  Indians  came  to  us,  and  our  Indian 
went  over  with  them,  and  returned  in  jhe  morning. 

Thursday  25.     The  morning  was   pleasant,  and  we 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  57 

set  sail  early  with  a  fair  wind.  Passed  a  beautiful  bot- 
tom on  the  south  side,  and  hills  on  the  north.  A  great 
many  of  the  natives,  some  on  horseback  and  some  on 
foot  appeared  on  the  hills  halooing  and  singing.  At 
two,  we  stopped  for  dinner,  and  as  we  could  not  get  our 
boat  to  shore  on  the  north  side,  the  water  being  shallow, 
our  Indian  was  sent  over  to  them.  In  the  afternoon  we 
passed  a  bottom  covered  with  timber  on  the  north  side, 
and  hills  on  the  south,  and  encamped  on  the  north  side. 
Here  our  Indian  returned  accompanied  by  one  of  the 
Mandans. 

Friday  26.  We  set  out  early,  and  had  a  clear  morn- 
ing; passed  a  large  willow  bottom  on  the  south,  and 
high  land  on  the  north  side.  The  Mandan  Indian  left 
us  early  in  the  morning.  At  ten,  we  came  to  a  hunting 
party  of  the  Mandans,  consisting  of  men,  women  and 
children.  There  was  an  Irishman  with  them,  who  had 
come  from  the  North  West  Company  of  traders.  We 
remained  here  an  hour,  and  then  proceeded.  A  number 
of  the  Indians  kept  along  the  shore  opposite  the  boat  all 
day,  on  the  south  side,  on  which  side  we  encamped. 
Some  of  them  remained  with  us  to  twelve  at  night,  and 
then  returned  to  their  village. 

Saturday  27.  The  morning  was  clear  and  pleasant 
and  we  set  out  early  At  half  past  seven,  we  arrived  at 
the  first  village  of  the  Mandans,  and  halted  about  two 
hours.  This  village  contains  40  or  50  lodges,  built  in 
the  manner  of  those  of  the  Rickarees.  These  Indians 
have  better  complexions  than  most  other  Indians,  and 
some  of  the  children  have  fair  hair.  We  passed  a  bluff 
on  the  south  side,  with  a  stratum  of  black  resembling  coal. 
There  is  a  bottom  on  the  north  side,  where  the  second 
Mandan  village  is  situated.  We  went  about  a  mile 
above  it,  and  encamped  in  the  same  bottom,  for  the 
purpose  of  holding  a  council  with  the  natives.  This 
place  is  1610  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  river  du  Bois, 
where  we  first  embarked  to  proceed  on  the  expedition. 
There  are  about  the  same  number  of  lodges,  and  people, 
in  this  village  as  in  the  first.  These  people  do  not  bury 


58      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

their  dead,  but  place  the  body  on  a  scaffold,  wrapped  in 
a  buffalo  robe,  where  it  lies  exposed.* 

Sunday  28.  The  day  was  clear,  and  we  remained 
here ;  but  could  not  sit  in  council,  the  wind  blew  so 
violent. 

Monday  29.  We  had  again  a  clear  day,  and  some 
of  the  principal  men  came  from  each  village  of  the 
Mandans,  from  the  Watasoons,  Sioux,  and  one  from 
the  Grossventers;  and  all  sat  in  council  together.  At 
11  o'clock,  when  the  Council  met,  a  shot  was  fired 
from  our  bow  piece,  and  the  commanding  officers  took 
the  chiefs  by  the  hand.  Captain  Lewis,  through  an  in- 
terpreter, delivered  a  speech;  gave  a  suit  of  clothes  to 
each  of  the  chiefs,  and  some  articles  for  their  villages. 
He  also  sent  a  suit  to  the  chief  of  the  Grossventers.  At 
3  o'clock  another  gun  was  fired  at  the  breaking  up  of 
the  council,  and  they  all  appeared  satisfied.  Captain 
Lewis  gave  an  iron  mill  to  the  Mandan  nation  to  grind 
corn,  with  which  they  were  highly  pleased. 

Tuesday  30.  We  remained  here  to  know  the  answer 
of  the  Indians.  The  day  was  clear  and  pleasant.  At 
ton,  Captain  Lswis  with  a  party  of  our  people,  and  an 
Indian  or  two,  went  about  six  miles  up  the  river  to 
view  an  island,  in  order  to  ascertain  whether  or  not  it 
would  suit  for  winter  quarters.  At  five  P.  M.  they 
returned  and  were  of  opinion  that  it  was  not  an  eligible 
place. 

Wednesday  31.  A  pleasant  morning.  We  remained 
here  also  to  day,  the  Indians  having  given  no  answer. 
At  twelve,  Captain  Clarke  and  some  of  the  men  went 
down  to  the  village,  and  the  chief  gave  9  or  10  bushels 
of  corn,  and  soma  buffalo  robes. 

Thursday  Nov.  1,  1804.  At  3  o'clock  P.  M.  we 
returned  down  the  river,  to  look  for  a  place  where  we 
could  fix  our  winter  quarters.  At  dark  we  had  descend- 
ed 9  miles,  and  came  to  a  bottom  covered  with  cotton 
wood  where  we  encamped. 

Friday  2.  Captain  Lewis,  myself  and  some  of  the 
men,  went  up  to  the  first  village  of  the  Mandans,  who 

*  See  Makenzie's  account  of  the  funeral  rites  of  the  Knisteneux, 
in  his  General  History  of  the  Fur  Trade. 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  59 

gave  us  some  corn.  Captain  Clarke  and  the  rest  of  our. 
party,  having  dropped  half  a  mile  lower  down  the  river, 
began  to  clear  a  place  for  a  camp  and  fort.  We  pitched 
our  tents  and  laid  the  foundation  of  one  line  of  huts. 

Saturday  3.  A  clear  day;  we  continued  building,  and 
six  men  went  down  the  river  in  a  periogue  to  hunt. 
They  will  perhaps  have  to  go  30  or  40  miles  before 
they  come  to  good  hunting  ground.  The  following  is 
the  manner  in  which  our  huts  and  fort  were  built.  The 
huts  were  in  two  rows,  containing  four  rooms  each,  and 
joined  at  one  end,  forming  an  angle.  When  raised 
about  seven  faet  high,  a  floor  of  puncheons,  or  split 
plank  were  laid,  and  covered  with  grass  and  clay;  which 
made  a  warm  loft.  The  upper  part  projected  a  foot  over 
and  the  roofs  were  made  shed  fashion,  rising  from  the 
inner  side,  and  making  the  outer  wall  about  18  feet  high. 
The  part  not  inclosed  by  the  huts  we  intend  to  picket. 
In  the  angle  formed  by  the  two  rows  of  huts  we  built  two 
rooms,  for  holding  our  provisions  and  stores. 

About  the  16,  the  weather  became  very  cold,  and  the 
ice  began  to  run  in  the  river.  We  sent  a  Frenchman 
down  to  enquire  about  the  hunters  and  periogue.  He 
and  one  of  the  hunters  returned  to  the  fort,  having  left 
the  periogue  and  the  rest  about  30  miles  below.  The 
Frenchman  was  sent  down  again  with  a  rope,  and 
returned  by  land.  On  the  19,  the  hunters  came  up  with 
the  periogue  loaded  with  the  meat  of  about  thirty  deer, 
eleven  elk,  and  some  buffalo.  In  the  cold  weather  we 
moved  into  the  huts,  though  not  finished.  From  the 
20th  to  the  27th  we  had  fine  pleasant  weather,  and  on 
the  evening  of  the  latter,  finished  the  roofs  of  our  huts. 
These  were  made  of  puncheons,  split  out  of  cotton  wood 
and  then  hewed.  The  cotton  wood  resembles  the  lorn- 
bardy,  poplar,  and  is  a  light  soft  wood.  The  largest 
trees  are  in  thickness  about  18  inches  diameter.  On  the 
night  of  the  27th  the  snow  fell  seven  inches  deep,  and 
the  28th  was  stormy 

Thursday  29.  This  day  was  clear,  but  cold.  We 
went  to  unrig  the  boat,  and  by  an  accident,  one  of  the 
sergeants  had  his  shoulder  dislocated.  The  30th  the 


60      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

weather  continued  the  same.  Early  in  the  morning  of 
this  day,  we  saw  an  Indian  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river,  and  brought  him  over.  He  informed  us,  that,  a 
few  days  ago,  eight  of  his  nation  were  out  hunting,  and 
were  attacked  by  a  party  of  the  Sioux  tribe,  who  killed 
one  and  would  two  more;  and  also  carried  off  their  horses. 
Captain  Clarke  and  23  men  immediately  set  out  with 
an  intention  of  pursuing  the  murderers.  They  went  up 
to  the  first  village  of  the  Mandans,  but  their  warriors 
did  not  seem  disposed  to  turn  out.  They  suggested  the 
coldness  of  the  weather;  that  the  Sioux  were  too  far 
gone  to  be  overtaken;  and  put  off  the  expedition  to 
the  spring  of  the  year.  Captain  Clarke  and  his  party 
returned  the  same  evening  to  the  fort.  We  have  been 
daily  visited  by  the  Indians  since  we  came  here.  Our 
fort  is  called  Fort  Mandan,  and  by  observation  is  in 
latitude  47.  21.  32.  8* 

*  The  course  of  the  Missouri,  and  distances  of  places  on  it, 
appear  to  be  very  erroneously  laid  down  upon  the  maps  of  Louis- 
iana generally.  On  these  the  villages  of  the  Mandans  are 
placed  in  about  43£  degrees  of  north  latitude,  and  112!  of  west 
longitude  from  Greenwich.  This  would  place  them  about  500 
miles  nearer  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  on  the  Pacific  Ocean, 
than  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri:  supposing  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia  to  be  about  124  degrees  west  of  London.  But  the  near- 
est practicable  route  from  the  Mandan  villages,  to  the  mouth  of 
the  Columbia,  according  to  Captain  Clarke's  estimate,  places 
them  335  miles  nearer  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  than  that  of  the 
Columbia;  and  by  the  route  actually  taken  by  the  expedition  to 
the  mouth  of  the,  Columbia,  they  are  900  miles  nearer  the  mouth 
of  the  Missouri. 

By  Captain  Lewis's  observations,  these  villages  are  in  latitude 
47.  21.  32.  8.  And  according  to  Mr.  Makenzie,  Mr.  Thompson 
astronomer  to  the  North  West  company,  in  the  year  1798,  deter- 
mined the  north  bend  of  the  Missouri,  to  be  in  latitude  47.  32. 
north,  and  longitude  101.  25.  west.  Now  this  is  probably  near  the 
longitude  of  the  Mandan  villages;  for  as  it  appears  by  the  above 
statement,  and  by  other  observations  of  Captain  Lewis  near  the 
mouth  of  the  Missouri,  that  the  course  of  the  river  is,  for  a  con- 
siderable distance,  nearly  due  west,  and  afterwards  nearly  due 
north.  The  difference  of  longitude,  and  latitude,  between  the 
mouth  of  the  Missouri  and  the  point  where  Mr.  Thompson  took 
his  observations,  may  be  added  together,  in  estimating  the  distance: 
and  this  will  give  about  8i  degrees  of  latitude,  and  9  degrees  of 
longitude  making  the  whole  17£  degrees,  which  from  the  very 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  61 

Saturday  December  1,  1804.  The  day  was  pleasant, 
and  we  began  to  cut  and  carry  pickets  to  complete  our 
fort.  One  of  the  traders  from  the  North  West  company 
came  to  the  fort,  and  related  that  the  Indians  had  been 
troublesome  in  his  way  through.  An  Indian  came  down 
from  the  first  Mandan  village,  and  told  us  that  a  great 
number  of  the  Chien  or  Dog  nation  had  arrived  near  the 
village. 

Sunday  2.  The  day  was  pleasant,  and  the  snow 
melted  fast.  A  party  of  the  Chien  Indians  with  some  of 
the  Mandans  came  to  the  fort:  they  appeared  civil  and 
good  natured. 

The  3,  4,  and  5,  were  moderate  and  we  carried  on 
the  work;  but  the  6,  was  so  cold  and  stormy,  we  could 
do  nothing.  In  the  night  the  river  froze  over,  and  in 
the  morning  was  covered  with  solid  ice  an  inch  and  a 
half  thick. 

Friday  7.  A  clear  cold  morning.  At  9  o'clock,  the 
Big  white-head  chief,  of  the  first  village  of  the  Mandans, 
came  to  our  garrison  and  told  us  that  the  buffalo  were 
in  the  prairie  coming  into  the  bottom.  Captain  Lewis 
and  eleven  more  of  us,  went  out  immediately,  and  saw 
the  prairie  covered  with  buffalo  and  the  Indians  on 
horseback  killing  them.  They  killed  30  or  40  and  we 
killed  11  of  them.  They  shoot  them  with  bows  and 
arrows,  and  have  their  horses  so  trained  that  they  will 
advance  very  near  and  suddenly  wheel  and  fly  off  in 
case  the  wounded  buffalo  attempt  an  attack. 

Saturday  8.  In  our  hunt  of  yesterday,  two  men  had 
their  feet  frost-bitten.  Captain  Clarke  and  another  party 
went  out  though  the  cold  was  extreme,  to  hunt  the  buf- 
falo; and  killed  nine,  and  a  deer.  One  man  got  his  hand 
frozen,  another  his  foot;  and  some  more  got  a  little  touch- 
ed. Two  men  encamped  out  to  take  care  of  the  meat. 

Sunday  9.      Captain  Lewis  and  twelve   more  of  us, 

meandering  course  of  the  Missouri,  may  be  sufficient  to  include 
1610  miles  of  it,  the  distance  from  the  mouth  to  the  villages*  In 
the  map  of  North  America  included  in  the  Atlas  accompanying 
Pinkerton's  Geography,  published  in  1804,  this  part  of  the  Mis- 
souri, appears  pretty  accurately  laid  down;  but  in  the  map  of 
Louisiana,  in  the  same  set  it  is  equally  erroneous  with  any  other. 


AS  RDLATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  63 

went  down  to  the  bottom  where  the  two  men  were  taking 
care  of  the  meat.  We  found  some  buffalo  had  come 
into  the  woods,  and  we  killed  ten  of  them  and  a  deer. 
Having  dressed  them,  we  loaded  four  horses  with  meat 
and  sent  them  with  some  of  the  party  to  the  fort ;  Capt. 
Lewis  and  the  rest  of  us  encamped  out,  and  had  toler- 
able lodging  with  the  assistance  of  the  hides  of  the 
buffalo  we  had  killed. 

Monday  10.  After  breakfasting  on  marrow  bones; 
Captain  Lewis  and  four  of  us  set  out  for  the  fort.  Four 
hunters  and  another  man  to  keep  camp  remained  out. 
On  our  return  we  met  one  of  our  men,  who  said  that  a 
party  had  gone  down  with  the  horses  for  more  meat. 
This  day  was  very  cold;  an  experiment  was  made  with 
proof  spirits,  which  in  fifteen  minutes  froze  into  hard 
ice.  In  the  evening  two  of  our  hunters  came  in  with  the 
horses,  but  had  killed  nothing.  Five  encamped  out. 

Tuesday  11.  Captain  Lewis  and  Captain  Clarke 
thinking  the  weather  too  cold  to  hunt,  sent  men  down 
to  the  camp  to  bring  up  the  remainder  of  the  meat,  and 
orders  for  the  hunters  to  return.  The  hunters  came  in 
at  dark.  They  had  killed  four  buffalo,  and  dressed  two 
ef  them.  The  cold  was  so  severe  they  could  do  nothing 
with  the  other  two. 

Wednesday  12.  We  all  remained  at  the  garrison 
the  weather  being  intensely  cold.  We  made  three  small 
sleds  to  haul  in  the  meat  with. 

Thursday  13.  The  weather  this  day,  began  to  be 
more  moderate.  Two  hunters  went  out  and  killed  two 
buffalo.  One  came  in,  and  he  and  some  of  the  men 
went  out  and  brought  in  the  meat. 

Friday  14.  This  day  was  more  moderate,  and  light 
snow  showers  fell.  Captain  Clarke  and  fourteen  men 
went  out  to  hunt;  and  took  the  three  sleds  with  them.  In 
the  evening  five  of  them  returned.  Captain  Clarke  and 
the  other  nine  encamped  out,  and  killed  two  deer.  The 
snow  fell  about  three  inches  deep. 

Saturday  15.  A  cloudy  day.  Some  of  the  natives 
paid  us  a  visit,  and  brought  presents  of  meat  to  the  com- 
manding officers.  About  1  o'clock  Captain  Clarke  and 


64      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

his  party  returned,  but  had  killed  nothing  more.  The 
buffalo  were  gone  from  the  river.  Some  slight  snow 
showers  fell  during  the  day. 

Sunday  16.  A  clear  cold  day.  I  went  up  with  some 
of  the  men  to  the  first  and  second  villages  of  the  Man- 
dans,  and  we  were  treated  with  much  kindness.  Three 
of  the  traders  from  the  North  West  Company  came  to 
our  fort,  and  brought  a  letter  to  our  commanding  officers. 
They  remained  with  us  all  night.  The  object  of  the 
visits  we  received  from  the  North  West  Company,  was 
to  ascertain  our  motives  for  visiting  that  country,  and  to 
gain  information  with  respect  to  the  change  of  govern- 
ment.* 

Monday  17.  This  was  a  cold  clear  day,  and  we  all 
remained  in  the  garrison.  A  sled  was  fitted  up  for  one 
of  the  North  West  traders  to  return  in.  In  the  evening 
one  of  the  natives  came  down  and  told  us  the  buffalo 
were  again  come  to  the  river. 

Tuesday  18.  A  very  cold  day.  Six  of  us  went  out 
to  look  for  the  buffalo;  but  could  see  nothing  but  some 
goats.  At  nine  we  returned  and  found  that  the  men 
from  the  North  West  Company  had  set  out  on  their 
return,  notwithstanding  the  severity  of  the  weather. 

*  The  North  West  Company  was  first  formed  in  the  winter  of 
1783-4,  by  the  merchants  of  Canada  ingaged  in  the  fur  trade, 
uniting  their  interests.  The  concern  was  divided  into  sixteen 
shares,  without  any  capital  being  deposited;  each  party  furnishing 
his  proportion  of  the  articles  necessary  for  carrying  on  the  trade. 
After  a  severe  struggle  and  rival  competition  with  others  engaged 
in  the  trade,  in  the  year  1787  more  partners  were  admitted,  the 
shares  extended  to  twenty,  and  the  establishment,  which  was  no 
more  than  an  association  of  commercial  men  agreeing  among  them- 
selves to  carry  on  the  fur  trade,  founded  on  a  more  solid  basis. 

This  and  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  have  engrossed  and  carry  on 
almost  the  whole  trade  in  that  extensive  country,  situated  between 
Hudson's  Bay,  and  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  that  high  tract  of 
country  west  of  lake  Superior,  which  separates  the  southern  from 
the  northern  waters:  and  have  factories,  forts,  and  trading  estab- 
lishments on  the  Winnipic,  Assiniboin,  Sturgeon,  Saskatchiwine, 
Elk,  and  most  of  the  other  great  lakes  and  rivers,  which  communi- 
cate with  or  discharge  themselves  into  Hudson's  Bay,  and  the 
North  sea.  It  is  said  that  some  change  has  sinco  taken  place  in 
the  establishment  of  the  North  West  Company. 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  65 

Wednesday  19.  This  was  a  more  pleasant  day,  and 
we  began  to  set  up  the  pickets. 

The  20,  and  21,  were  quite  warm  and  pleasant,  and 
we  advanced  with  our  work. 

Saturday  22.  The  weather  continued  clear,  pleasant 
and  warm.  A  great  number  of  the  natives  came  with 
corn,  beans  and  moccasins  to  trade,  for  which  they  would 
take  anything — old  shirts,  buttons,  awls,  knives  and  the 
like  articles. 

Sunday  23.  The  weather  continued  pleasant,  and  we 
proceeded  in  our  operations  in  setting  up  the  pickets. 

Monday  24.  Some  snow  fell  this  morning;  about  10 
it  cleared  up,  and  the  weather  became  pleasant.  This  even- 
ing we  finished  our  fortification.  Flour,  dried  apples, 
pepper  and  other  articles  were  distributed  in  the  different 
messes  to  enable  them  to  celebrate  Christmas  in  a  proper 
and  social  manner. 

Tuesday  25.  The  morning  was  ushered  in  by  two  dis- 
charges of  a  swivel,  and  a  round  of  small  arms  by  the 
whole  corps.  Captain  Clarke  then  presented  to  each 
man  a  glass  of  brandy,  and  we  hoisted  the  American  flag 
in  the  garrison,  and  its  first  waving  in  fort  Mandan  was 
celebrated  with  another  glass.  The  men  then  cleared 
out  one  of  the  rooms  and  commenced  dancing.  At  10 
o'clock  we  had  another  glass  of  brandy,  and  at  one  a  gun 
was  fired  as  a  signal  for  dinner.  At  half  past  two  anoth- 
er gun  was  fired,  as  a  notice  to  assemble  at  the  dance, 
which  was  continued  in  a  jovial  manner  till  eight  at  night; 
and  without  the  presence  of  any  females,  except  three 
squaws,  wives  of  our  interpreter,  who  took  no  other  part 
than  the  amusement  of  looking  on.  None  of  the  natives 
came  to  the  garrison  this  day;  the  commanding  officers 
having  requested  they  should  not,  which  was  strickly  at- 
tended to.  During  the  remainder  of  the  month  we  lived 
in  peace  and  tranquility  in  the  garrison,  and  were  daily 
visited  by  the  natives. 


66  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Tuesday,  January  1,  1805.  Two  shots  were  fired 
from  the  swivel,  followed  by  a  round  of  small  arms,  to 
welcome  the  New  Year.  Captain  Lewis  then  gave  each 
a  glass  of  good  old  whiskey ;  and  a  short  time  after  anoth- 
er was  given  by  Captain  Clarke. 

About  11  o'clock  one  of  the  interpreters  and  half  of 
our  people,  went  up,  at  the  request  of  the  natives,  to  the 
village,  to  begin  the  dance;  and  were  followed  some  time 
after  by  Captain  Clarke,  and  three  more  men.  The  day 
was  warm  and  pleasant.  Captain  Lewis  in  the  afternoon 
issued  another  glass  of  whiskey;  and  at  night  Captain 
Clarke  and  part  of  the  men  returned  from  the  village,  the 
rest  remained  all  night. 

Wednesday  2.  Some  snow  fell  this  morning.  The 
men,  who  remained  at  the  village  last  night,  returned. — 
Captain  Lewis,  myself  and  soine  others  went  up  to  the 
second  village  and  amused  ourselves  with  dancing  &c, 
the  greater  part  of  the  day.  In  the  evening  we  in  general 
returned  and  a  great  number  of  the  natives,  men,  women 
and  children,  came  to  see  us,  and  appeared  highly  pleased. 

This  day  1  discovered  how  the  Indians  keep  their  hor- 
ses during  the  winter.  In  the  day  time  they  are  permit- 
ted to  run  out  and  gather  what  they  can;  and  at  night  are 
brought  into  the  lodges,  with  the  natives  themselves,  and 
fed  upon  cotton  wood  branches:  and  in  this  way  they  are 
kept  in  tolerable  case. 

Thursday  3.  From  this  to  the  13th  the  weather  was 
generally  very  cold ;  but  our  hunters  were  frequently  out. 
One  of  them  killed  a  beautiful  white  hare.  These  ani- 
mals are  said  to  be  plenty.  We  killed  a  small  buffalo, 
three  elk,  four  deer  and  two  or  three  wolves.  Three  of 
the  hunters  going  to  a  distance  down  the  river,  killed 
nothing  for  two  days,  but  a  wolf,  which  they  were  obliged 
to  eat;  and  said  they  relished  it  protty  well,  but  found  it 
rather  tough,  A  number  of  the  natives  being  out  hunting 
in  a  very  cold  day,  one  of  them  gave  out  on  his  return  in 
the  evening;  and  was  left  in  the  plain  or  prairie  covered 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  67 

with  a  buffalo  robe.  After  some  time  he  began  to  recov- 
er and  removed  to  the  woods,  where  he  broke  a  number 
of  branches  to  lie  on,  and  to  keep  his  body  off  the  snow. 
In  the  morning  he  came  to  the  fort,  with  his  feel  badly 
frozen,  and  the  officers  undertook  his  cure. 

Sunday  13.  A  clear  cold  day.  A  number  of  the  na- 
tives went  down  the  river  to  hunt  with  our  men.  In  the 
evening  one  of  our  interpreters  and  another  Frenchman 
who  had  gone  with  him  to  the  Assiniboins  for  fur  return- 
ed. They  had  their  faces  so  badly  frost  bitten  that  the 
skin  came  off,  and  their  guide  was  so  badly  frozen  that 
they  were  obliged  to  leave  him  with  the  Assiniboins. — 
This  nation  lives  near  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  about 
90  miles  from  fort  Mandan,  * 

Monday  14.  Some  snow  fell  this  morning.  Six  more 
hunters  went  out  to  join  those  with  the  natives/  In  the 
evening  one  of  the  hunters,  that  first  went  out,  returned. 
They  had  killed  a  buffalo,  a  wolf  and  two  porcupines; 
and  one  of  the  men  had  got  his  feet  so  badly  frozen  that 
he  was  unable  to  come  to  the  fort. 

During  the  15th  and  16th  the  weather  was  warm,  and 
the  snow  melted  fast.  Horses  were  sent  for  the  lame 
man,  and  he  was  brought  to  the  fort;  his  feet  were  not  so 
bad  as  we  had  expected. 

On  the  17th  it  became  cold;  the  wind  blew  hard  from 
the  north,  and  it  began  to  freeze. 

Friday  18.  Clear  cold  weather.  Two  of  our  hunters 
returned,  and  had  killed  four  deer,  four  wolves  and  a  pra- 
row.  Two  men  belonging  to  the  N.  W.  company,  who 
stay  at  the  Gross  venters  village,  came  to  the  fort.  They 
say  this  animal  which  the  French  call  a  prarow,  or  bra- 
row,  is  a  species  of  the  badger. 

Saturday  19.     Two   men  were  sent  with  horses   for 

*  It  is  presumed,  no  part  of  the  great  chain  of  Rocky  Mountains 
comes  as  near  as  90  miles  to  fort  Mandan;  but  it  is  not  improbable 
that  there  may  be  a  mountain,  connected  with  them,  which  runs  a 
considerable  distance  eastward  along  the  great  dividing  ridge;  and 
on  some  maps  a  mountain  is  laid  down  running  east  and  west, 
south  of  the  Assiniboin  river  and  lake,  which  would  appear  to  bo 
not  more  than  90  or  100  miles  from  the  Mandan  villages. 


68      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

meat,  to  the  hunter's  Camp,  which  is  thirty  miles  down 
the  river. 

Sunday  20.  I  went  up  with  one  of  the  men  to  the 
villages.  They  treated  us  friendly  and  gave  us  victuals. 
After  we  were  done  eating  they  presented  a  bowlful  to  a 
buffalo  head,  saying  "eat  that."  Their  superstitious  cre- 
dulity is  so  great,  that  they  believe  by  using  the  head  well 
the  living  buffalo  will  come  and  that  they  will  get  a  sup- 
ply of  meat. 

Monday  21.  A  clear  cold  day.  Our  hunters  return- 
ed to  the  fort,  and  brought  with  them  a  three  horse  load  of 
venison  and  elk  meat. 

The  weather  on  the  22nd  and  23d,  was  warm,  and  we 
commenced  cutting  the  ice  from  about  our  craft,  in  order 
to  get  them  out  of  the  river.  The  snow  fell  about  three 
inches  deep. 

Thursday  24.  A  cold  day.  Some  of  our  hunters 
went  out,  but  killed  nothing. 

Friday  25.  All  hands  were  employed  in  cutting  away 
the  ice,  which  we  find  a  tedious  business. 

Saturday  26.  A  pleasant  day  and  all  hands  employed 
in  cutting  wood,  to  make  charcoal.  We  have  a  black- 
smith with  us,  and  a  small  set  of  blacksmith  tools.  The 
blacksmith  makes  war-axes,  and  other  axes  to  cut  wood; 
which  are  exchanged  with  the  natives  for  corn,  which  is 
of  great  service  to  us,  as  we  could  not  bring  much  with 
us. 

On  the  27th  and  28th  the  weather  became  much  more 
settled,  warm  and  pleasant  than  it  had  been  for  some 
time. 

Tuesday  29.  We  attempted  another  plan  for  getting 
our  water  craft  disengaged  from  the  ice:  which  was  to 
heat  water  in  the  boats,  with  hot  stones ;  but  in  this  pro- 
ject we  failed,  as  the  stones  we  found  would  not  stand 
the  fire,  but  broke  to  pieces. 

Wednesday  30.  1  went  up  the  river  and  found  anoth- 
er kind  of  stones,  which  broke  in  the  same  manner:  so 
our  batteaux  and  periogues  remained  fast  in  the  ice. 

Thursday  31.  Some  snow  fell  last  night.  Five  hun- 
ters went  out  with  two  horses.  In  the  morning  the  wind 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  69 

blew  and  was  cold,  towards  the  middle  of  the  day  the 
weather  became  moderate,  and  the  afternoon  was  plea- 
sant. 

Friday,  February  1,  1805.  A  cold  day.  About  11 
o'clock  our  hunters  came  home,  but  had  killed  nothing. 
One  of  the  men  at  the  fort  went  out  a  short  distance,  and 
killed  a  small  deer.  On  the  next  day  he  went  out  and 
killed  another  deer.  This  and  the  third  were  cold. 

Monday  4.  A  fine  day.  Captain  Clark  and  eighteen 
more  went  down  the  river  to  hunt.  We  proceeded  on  20 
miles  and  could  see  no  game. 

Tuesday  5.  We  proceeded  on  to  some  Indian  camps 
and  there  we  killed  three  deer.  The  next  day  we  went 
on  to  more  Indian  camps  and  killed  some  deer.  On  the 
7th  we  encamped  in  a  bottom  on  the  south  side  of  the 
Missouri,  and  the  next  day  turned  out  to  hunt.  We  kill- 
ed ten  elk  and  eighteen  deer,  and  remained  there  all 
night.  On  the  9th  we  built  a  pen  to  secure  our  meat 
from  the  wolves,  which  are  very  numerous  here ;  and  in 
the  evening  went  further  down  and  encamped.  The  next 
morning  we  set  out  on  our  return  towards  the  fort;  and 
killed  some  elk  and  deer  in  our  way.  On  the  12th  we 
arrived  at  the  fort;  and  found  that  one  of  our  interpreter's 
wives  had  in  our  absence  made  an  ADDITION  to  our  num- 
ber. On  the  13th  we  had  three  horses  shod  to  bring 
home  our  meat. 

Thursday  14.  Four  men  set  out  early  with  the  hor- 
ses and  sleds  to  bring  home  our  meat;  and  had  gone 
down  about  25  miles  when  a  party  of  Indians  (they  did 
not  know  of  what  nation)  came  upon  them  and  robbed 
them  of  their  horses  one  of  which  they  gave  back,  and 
went  off  without  doing  the  men  any  further  injury.  The 
same  night  the  men  came  back  and  gave  information  of 
what  had  happened.  At  midnight  Captain  Lewis  called 
for  twenty  volunteers  who  immediately  turned  out.  Hav- 
ing made  our  arrangements,  we  set  put  early,  accompani- 
ed by  some  Indians;  and  having  marched  thirty  miles 
encamped  in  some  Indian  huts. 

Saturday  16.  We  renewed  our  pursuit  early,  and  had 
a  cold  morning.  Having  proceeded  twelve  miles  we  dis- 


70      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

covered  fresh  smoke  arising  at  some  old  camps,  where 
we  had  hid  some  meat  before  when  Captain  Clarke  was 
down ;  and  therefore  advanced  with  caution.  Having  ar- 
rived at  the  place  we  found  the  savages  were  gone ;  had 
destroyed  our  meat,  burnt  the  huts  and  fled  into  the  plains. 
This  morning  the  Indians,  who  had  come  down  with  us 
and  one  of  our  men  whose  feet  had  been  a  little  frozen, 
returned  home.  We  hunted  the  17th  and  18th  and  got  a 
good  deal  of  meat  which  we  brought  to  a  place  where 
some  more  had  been  secured.  The  19th  we  loaded  our 
sleds  very  heavy,  and  fifteen  men  drew  one  and  the  horse 
the  other,  which  was  a  small  one.  On  the  next  day  we 
arrived  at  the  fort  much  fatigued. 

Thursday  21.  Some  rain  fell  to-day,  the  first  that  has 
fallen  since  November.  In  the  evening  the  weather  be- 
came clear  and  pleasant. 

Friday  22.  Was  a  fine  day  and  we  again  began  to  cut 
away  the  ice,  and  succeeded  in  getting  out  one  of  the 
periogues. 

Saturday  23.  We  had  fine  pleasant  weather,  and  all 
hands  were  engaged  in  cutting  away  the  ice  from  the  boat 
and  the  other  periogue.  At  4  o'clock  in  the  afternoon 
we  had  the  good  fortune  to  get  both  free  from  the  ice;  and 
in  the  three  following  days  succeeded  in  getting  them  all 
safe  upon  the  bank.  On  the  27th  we  made  preparations 
for  making  periogues  to  pursue  our  voyage  in. 

Thursday  28.  Sixteen  of  us  went  up  the  river  about 
six  miles,  where  we  found  and  cut  down  trees  for  four 
canoes.  While  we  were  absent  an  express  arrived  from 
the  Rickarees  village  with  news  that  the  Sioux  had  de- 
clared war  against  us,  and  also  against  the  Mandans  and 
Grossventers.  They  had  boasted  of  the  robbery  of  the 
14th  at  the  Rickarees  village  in  their  way  home,  and  that 
they  intended  to  massacre  ,the  whole  of  us  in  the  spring. 
By  this  express  we  therefore  found  out  that  it  was  the 
Sioux  who  had  taken  the  horses  from  our  men. 

Friday,  March  1,  1805.  The  same  party  encamped 
out  to  make  the  canoes,  and  continued  until  six  were 
made. 

On  the  20th  and  21st  we  carried  them  to  the  river 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  5ASS.  71 

about  a  mile  and  an  half  distant:  There  I  remained 
with  two  men  to  finish  them,  and  to  take  care  of  them, 
until  the  26th,  when  some  men  came  up  from  the  fort, 
and  we  put  the  canoes  into  the  water.  As  the  river  had 
risen  there  was  some  water  between  the  ice  and  the  shore. 
We  got  three  of  them  safe  to  the  fort;  but  the  ice  break- 
ing before  the  other  three  were  got  down,  so  filled  the 
channel,  that  we  were  obliged  to  carry  them  the  rest  of 
the  way  by  land.  On  the  27th  we  put  one  of  the  canoes 
into  the  water  to  ascertain  what  weight  they  would  carry. 
We  found  they  would  not  carry  as  much  as  was  expected, 
and  Captain  Lewis  agreed  to  take  a  large  periogue  along. 
The  remainder  of  the  month  we  were  employed  in  pre- 
paring our  craft  for  renewal  of  our  voyage. 

Monday,  April  1,  1805.  As  our  large  boat  was  to  re- 
turn immediately  to  St.  Louis,  the  whole  of  our  craft 
was  put  into  the  water.  A  considerable  quantity  of  rain 
fell  this  day;  the  first  of  any  consequence  that  had  fallen 
here  for  six  months.  The  second  was  a  fair  day  but 
windy.  On  the  3d  the  weather  was  fine  and  pleasant. 
Some  boxes  were  made,  in  which  it  was  intended  to  have 
packed  skins  of  different  animals,  which  had  been  pro- 
cured in  the  country,  to  be  sent  down  in  the  batteaux. 

Thursday  4.  A  fine  clear  day.  We  packed  the  box- 
es full  of  skins,  buffalo  robes,  and  horns  of  the  Mountain 
ram,  of  a  great  size,  for  the  president;  and  began  to  load 
the  boat. 

Friday  5.  This  was  a  clear  day  and  the  wind  blew 
hard  and  cold  from  the  N.  W.  We  took  all  our  goods, 
stores  and  baggage  out,  divided  and  put  them  aboard  our 
craft,  that  we  might  be  ready  to  continue  our  voyage. 

If  this  brief  Journal  should  happen  to  be  preserved, 
and  be  ever  thought  worthy  of  appearing  in  print :  some 
readers  will  perhaps  expect,  that,  after  our  long  friendly 
intercourse  with  these  Indians,  among  whom  we  have 
spent  the  winter;  our  acquaintance  with  those  nations 
lower  down  the  river  and  the  information  we  received  re- 
lative to  several  other  nations,  we  ought  to  be  prepared 
now,  when  we  are  about  to  renew  our  voyage,  to  give 
some  account  of  the  fair  sex  of  the  Missouri ;  and  enter- 


72  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

tain  them  with  narratives  of  feats  of  love  as  well  as  of 
arms.  Though  we  could  furnish  a  sufficient  number  of 
entertaining  stories  and  pleasant  anecdotes,  we  do  not 
think  it  prudent  to  swell  our  Journal  with  them;  as  our 
views  are  directed  to  more  useful  information.  Besides, 
as  we  are  yet  ignorant  of  the  dangers,  which  may  await 
us,  and  the  difficulty  of -escape,  should  certain  probable 
incidents  occur,  it  may  not  be  inconsistent  with  good 
policy  to  keep  the  Journal  of  as  small  and  portable  a  size 
as  circumstances  will  make  practicable.  It  may  be  ob- 
served generally  that  chastity  is  not  very  highly  esteemed 
by  these  people,  and  that  the  severe  and  loathsome  effects 
of  certain  French  principles  are  not  uncommon  among 
them.  The  fact  is,  that  the  women  are  generally  consi- 
dered an  article  of  traffic,  and  indulgence  are  sold  at  a 
very  moderate  price.  As  a  proof  of  this  I  will  just  men- 
tion, that  for  an  old  tobacco  box,  one  of  our  men  was 
granted  the  honor  of  passing  a  night  with  the  daughter  of 
the  head  chief  of  the  Mandan  nation.  An  old  bawd  with 
her  punks,  may  also  be  found  in  some  of  the  villages  on 
the  Missouri,  as  well  as  in  the  large  cities  of  polished 
nations. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Saturday  6.  The  day  was  clear  and  pleasant.  This 
day  we  heard  that  some  of  the  Rickarees  had  come  up  to 
the  Mandan  villages.  Our  interpreter  and  some  of  the 
men  were  sent  over  to  ascertain  the  truth  of  the  report; 
and  we  were  detained  all  day  waiting  their  return. 

Sunday  7.  The  men  returned  and  four  of  the  Rick- 
arees with  them.  The  commanding  officers  held  a  con- 
versation with  these  Indians,  and  they  concluded  that 
some  of  them  would  go  down  in  the  boat  from  their  vil- 
lage to  St.  Louis.  About  5  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we 
left  fort  Mandan  in  good  spirits.  Thirty-one  men  and  a 
woman  went  up  the  river  and  thirteen  returned  down  it 
in  the  boat.  We  had  two  periogues  and  six  canoes,  and 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  73 

proceeded  about  four  miles,  and  encamped  opposite  the 
first  Mandan  village,  on  the  north  side. 

Monday  8.  We  set  out  early  and  had  a  clear  day. 
The  wind  blew  hard  from  the  N.  W.  At  twelve  the  word 
was  passed  from  a  canoe  in  the  rear  that  it  was  sinking, 
when  we  halted  in  front  and  Captain  Clarke  went  back  to 
see  what  was  the  matter.  This  forenoon  we  passed  two 
villages  of  the  Grossventers,  or  Big-Belley  nation  of  In- 
dians on  the  South  side  and  a  small  river  on  the  same 
side  called  Cutteau  or  Knife-River.  The  canoe  which 
had  been  in  distress,  came  up,  and  had  received  little 
damage  except  wetting  some  powder  on  board.  The 
woman  that  is  with  us  is  a  squaw  of  the  Snake  nation  of 
Indians,  and  wife  of  our  interpreter.  We  expect  she 
will  be  of  service  to  us,  when  passing  through  that  nation. 
In  the  afternoon  we  passed  very  high  bluffs  on  the  South 
side;  one  of  which  had  lately  been  a  burning  volcano. 
The  pumice  stones  lay  very  thick  around  it,  and  there 
was  a  strong  smell  of  Sulphur.  *  We  came  about  four- 
teen miles  and  encamped  on  the  North  side. 

Tuesday  9.  We  set  out  early,  and  about  1  o'clock  we 
passed  a  party  of  Indians  hunting:  made  about  twenty- 
two  miles  and  encamped  on  the  North  side. 

Wednesday  10.  We  proceeded  again  early,  and  had 
rapid  water  and  a  great  many  sand-bars ;  but  a  fine  plea- 
sant day.  Having  proceeded  about  nineteen  miles  we 
encamped  on  the  North  side. 

Thursday  11.  We  got  underway  early,  had  a  fine 
clear  pleasant  day,  and  went  on  very  well.  We  saw 
some  Indians  on  the  South  side,  but  did  not  speak  with 
them.  We  came  about  twenty-one  miles  and  encamped 
on  the  North  side. 

Friday  12.  Another  fine  day.  We  set  out  early  as 
usual.  About  eight  we  came  to  the  mouth  of  the  Little 

*  "Mr.  Mackay  informed  me,  that  in  passing  over  the  mountains, 
he  observed  several  chasms  in  the  earth  that  emitted  heat  and  smoke, 
which  diffused  a  strong  sulphureous  stench." — Makenzie's  Voyage. 

These  appearances  were  near  the  eastern  side  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains  where  they  were  crossed  by  Mr.  Mackenzie's  party; 
and  in  about  lat.  56.  North,  and  long.  120.  West. 


74  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

Missouri,  a  handsome  small  river  that  comes  in  on  the 
South  side  where  we  halted  and  took  breakfast.  The 
river  is  very  properly  called  the  Little  Missouri,  for  it 
exactly  resembles  the  Missouri  in  color,  current  and  taste. t 
It  was  thought  advisable  to  remain  here  the  remainder  of 
the  day,  and  air  our  loading.  Some  hunters  went  out  and 
killed  a  deer,  and  Captain  Clarke  killed  a  hare,  which 
was  now  changing  its  color  from  white  to  grey. 

Saturday  13.  We  had  a  pleasant  day  and  a  fair  wind  ; 
but  our  small  canoes  could  not  bear  the  sail.  Some  of 
the  party  caught  some  beaver,  and  some  Frenchman  who 
were  out  trapping  caught  ssven  of  them.  We  passed  a 
large  creek  on  the  South  side,  called  Onion  Creek.  We 
came  23  miles  and  encamped  on  the  North  side,  where 
we  found  a  wild  goose  nest  on  a  tree  about  60  feet  high. 
One  of  the  men  climbed  the  tree  and  found  one  egg  in 
the  nest. 

Sunday  14.  We  started  early  aS  usual,  and  had  a  fine 
morning.  As  we  were  setting  out  a  black  dog  came  to  us, 
and  went  along,  supposed  to  have  belonged  to  a  band  of 
the  Assiniboins,  who  had  been  encamped  near  this  place 
a  few  days  ago.  We  passed  a  hill  resembling  a  large 
haystack,  all  but  about  ten  feet  of  the  top  which  was  as 
white  as  chalk.  The  hills  in  general  are  much  higher 
here  than  lower  down  the  river;  but  the  bottoms  much  the 
same.  In  the  afternoon  we  passed  a  creek,  called  after 
our  interpreter,  Sharbons  Creek.  He  had  been,  before, 
this  far  up  the  Missouri,  and  no  white  man  any  further, 
that  we  could  discover.  We  made  16  miles  and  encamp- 
ed in  a  handsome  bottom  on  the  North  side. 

Monday  15.  We  had  a  pleasant  day  and  a  fair  wind; 
set  forward  early  as  usual,  and  went  on  very  well.  Pass- 
ed a  large  Creek  on  the  North  side,  called  Goat-Pen 
Creek.  We  saw  a  number  of  buffalo  and  two  bears  on 
the  bank  of  the  river.  After  going  23  miles  we  encamp- 
ed on  the  South  side. 

Tuesday  16.     We  had  a  clear  pleasant   day;  and  in 

f  The  maps  of  Louisiana  place  the  Mandan  villages  west  of  the 
little  Missouri;  whereas  it  is  ascertained  by  this  expedition  to  be  92 
miles  higher  up  the  Missouri  than  the  Mandans. 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  75 

the  early  part  of  it,  a  fair  gentle  wind.  Captain  Clarke 
went  out  and  killed  a  Cabre  or  Antelope,  the  same  kind  of 
an  animal,  which  we  before  called  a  goat.  Tho  wind 
became  flawy  and  the  sailing  bad.  After  making  eighteen 
miles  we  encamped  on  the  South  side  in  a  point  of  woods 
called  the  Grand  Point. 

Wednesday  17.  We  proceeded  on  early  as  usual  with 
a  fair  wind.  The  day  was  fine  and  we  made  good  way. 
Passed  a  beautiful  plain  and  two  large  Creeks  on  the 
North  side,  and  another  creek  on  the  South.  We  saw 
a  great  many  buffalo  and  elk  on  the  banks.  At  1  o'clock 
we  halted  for  dinner,  when  two  men  went  out  and  in  a  few 
minutes  killed  two  buffalo.  We  made  26  miles  and  en- 
camped on  the  South  side,  and  found  that  some  rain  had 
fallen  during  the  day,  where  we  encamped,  though  there 
was  none  where  we  had  been. 

Thursday  18.  The  men  caught  some  beaver,  and 
killed  a  wild  goose.  The  morning  was  fine  and  we  went 
on  very  well  until  1  o'clock,  when  the  wind  blew  so  hard 
down  the  river,  we  were  obliged  to  lie  to  for  three  hours, 
after  which  we  continued  our  voyage.  This  day  Captain 
Clarke  went  by  land  and  met  us  in  the  afternoon  on  the 
bank  with  an  elk  and  a  deer.  We  came  about  14  miles 
and  encamped  in  a  good  harbor  on  the  North  side,  on  ac- 
count of  the  wind,  which  blew  very  hard  all  night  accom- 
panied by  some  drops  of  rain. 

Friday  19.  A  cloudy  morning,  with  high  wind.  We 
did  not  set  out  until  the  next  day.  While  we  lay  here,  I 
went  out  to  the  hills,  which  I  found  very  high,  much  wash- 
ed by  the  rain,  and  without  grass.  I  saw  a  part  of  a  log 
quite  petrified,  and  of  which  good  whetstones,  or  hones 
could  be  made.  I  also  saw  where  a  hill  had  been  on  fire, 
and  pumice  stones  around  it.  There  is  a  great  quantity  of 
hysop  in  the  vallies.  We  killed  an  elk  and  some  wild 
geese,  and  caught  some  beaver. 

Saturday  20.  We  set  out  again  and  had  a  cold  disa- 
greeable morning;  rapid  water  and  a  strong  wind.  Some 
of  the  canoes  took  in  a  good  deal  of  water ;  and  we  made 
but  six  miles,  when  we  were  obliged  again  to  lie  too,  on 
account  of  the  wind,  and  to  dry  our  loading.  While  we 


76      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

lay  here  we  killed  three  elk  and  got  a  number  of  Geese 
eggs  out  of  their  nests,  which  are  generally  built  on  trees. 

Sunday  21.  We  proceeded  on  early;  and  had  a  fine 
clear  morning,  but  cold;  there  was  a  sharp  frost.  We 
saw  a  great  number  of  elk,  buffalo  and  deer  on  both 
sides  of  the  river.  About  twelve  the  wind  again  rose  and 
was  disagreeable,  but  we  continued  our  voyage.  Two  of 
our  hunters  went  out  this  afternoon  and  caught  three 
young  buffalo  calves.  We  passed  a  small  river  called 
White  Clay  river  on  the  North  side  and  having  gone  15 
miles  encamped  on  the  South  side. 

Monday  22.  Before  day  light  we  continued  our  voy- 
age; passed  a  beautiful  bottom  on  the  North  side,  cover- 
ed with  game  of  different  kinds.  The  wind  was  unfavor- 
able to  day,  and  the  river  here  is  very  crooked.  We 
came  about  14  miles,  then  encamped  on  the  South  side 
and  caught  some  beaver. 

Tuesday  23.  We  set  out  early  and  had  a  fine  day; 
bull  the  wind  was  ahead  and  we  were  obliged  to  lie  too 
about  three  hours.  We  went  15  miles  and  encamped  on 
the  North  side.  Captain  Clarke  killed  three  blacktailed 
deer  and  a  buffalo  calf. 

Wednesday  24.  This  was  a  clear  day,  but  the  wind 
blew  so  hard  down  the  river  we  could  not  proceed. — 
While  we  lay  here  some  of  the  men  went  to  see  some 
water  at  a  distance  which  appeared  like  a  river  or  small 
lake.  In  the  afternoon  they  returned,  and  had  found  it 
only  the  water  of  the  Missouri,  which  had  run  up  a  bot- 
tom. One  of  the  men  caught  six  young  wolves  and 
brought  them  in,  and  the  other  men  killed  some  elk  and 
deer. 

Thursday  25.  We  set  out  as  usual  and  had  a  fine 
day;  but  about  eleven  were  obliged  to  halt  again,  the  wind 
was  so  strong  ahead.  Captain  Lewis  and  four  men  set 
off  by  land  from  this  place  to  go  to  the  river  Jaune,  or 
Yellow  Stone  river,  which  it  is  believed  is  not  very  dis- 
tant. I  remarked,  as  a  singular  circumstance,  that  there 
is  no  dew  in  this  country,  and  very  little  rain.  Can  it  be 
owing  to  the  want  of  timber?  At  5  o'clock  in  the  after- 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  77 

noon,  we  renewed  our  voyage;  and  having  this  day  ad- 
vanced about  13  miles,  encamped  on  the  South  side. 

Friday  26.  A  fine  day.  We  set  out  early,  and  hav- 
ing proceeded  10  miles  came  at  12  o'clock  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Jaune  and  halted:  Captain  Lewis  and  his  party 
had  not  arrived.  I  went  up  the  point  about  nine  miles, 
where  there  are  the  most  beautiful  rich  plains  I  ever  be- 
held. I  saw  a  large  pond  or  lake.  Captain  Clarke  while 
I  was  absent  measured  both  rivers;  and  found  the  breadth 
of  the  Missouri  to  be  337  yards  of  water,  and  190  of  a 
sand  beach;  total  527  yards.  That  of  the  Yellow  Stone 
river  297  yards  of  water  and  561  of  sand;  total  858  yards. 
The  mouth  of  this  river  is  1888  miles  from  the  mouth  of 
the  Missouri;  278  from  Fort  Mandan  and  186  from  the 
mouth  of  Little  Missouri. 

The  river  Jaune  is  shallow,  and  Missouri  deep  and  ra- 
pid. In  the  evening  Captain  Lewis  with  his  party  joined 
us;  and  had  brought  with  them  a  buffalo  calf,  which  fol- 
lowed them  seven  or  eight  miles.  We  killed  a  number 
of  calves,  and  found  they  made  very  good  veal.  There 
are  a  great  many  signs  of  beaver  in  this  part  of  the  coun- 
try. We  encamped  on  the  point  all  night. 

Saturday  27.  About  9  o'clock  in  the  forenoon  we  re- 
newed our  voyage.  The  day  was  fine,  but  on  account  of 
a  strong  wind  we  were  obliged  at  one  to  halt,  till  four, 
when  we  again  went  on;  and  having  this  day  made  eight 
miles,  encamped  on  the  North  side. 

Sunday  28.  We  set  out  early,  had  a  fine  day  and  went 
on  very  well.  About  nine  we  halted  for  breakfast  under 
very  high  bluffs  on  the  North  side.  About  15  miles  above 
the  Yellow  Stone  river,  the  banks  on  the  Missouri  are  not 
so  high  as  below  it,  and  the  sand  bars  are  more  in  the 
middle  of  the  river.  We  came  24  miles  and  encamped 
on  the  North  side  in  a  handsome  bottom.  The  bottoms 
here  are  not  so  large,  and  have  less  timber  on  them  than 
those  below  the  Jaune. 

Monday  29.  We  again  set  out  early,  had  a  clear 
morning  and  went  on  at  a  good  rate.^  This  forenoon  we 


78  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

passed  some  of  the  highest  bluffs  I  had  ever  seen;  and  on 
the  top  of  the  highest  we  saw  some  Mountain  sheep, 
which  the  natives  say  are  common  about  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  These  were  the  first  we  had  seen,  and  we 
attempted  to  kill  some  of  them  but  did  not  succeed.  Cap- 
tain Lewis,  and  one  of  the  men,  travelled  some  distance 
by  land  and  killed  a  white  bear.  The  natives  call  them 
white,  but  they  are  more  of  a  brown  grey.  They  are 
longer  than  the  common  black  bear,  and  have  much 
larger  feet  and  talons.  We  went  25  miles  and  encamped 
on  the  bank  of  a  small  river,  which  comes  in  on  the 
North  side  about  70  yards  wide. 

Tuesday  30.  We  embarked  at  sunrise;  had  a  fine 
morning  and  went  on  very  well.  We  passsd  through  a 
handsome  Country,  with  a  rich  soil,  and  the  prairies  rising 
beautifully  on  both  sides  of  the  river.  We  went  24 
miles  and  encamped  on  the  North  side.  Captain  Lewis 
killed  a  large  elk  here. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Wednesday,  May  1,  1805.  We  set  out  early  in  a 
cool  morning;  and  went  on  till  12  o'clock,  when  the  wind 
rose  so  high,  that  our  small  canoes  could  not  stand  the 
waves.  We  made  only  ten  miles  this  day. 

Thursday  2.  At  daybreak  it  began  to  snow;  and  the 
wind  continued  so  high,  we  could  not  proceed  until  the 
afternoon.  While  we  lay  here  our  hunters  went  out  and 
killed  some  buffalo  and  deer.  They  found  some  red 
cloth  at  an  old  Indian  camp,  which  we  suppose  had  been 
offered  and  left  as  a  sacrifice ;  the  Indians  having  some 
knowledge  of  a  supreme  being  and  this  their  mode  of 
worship.  The  snow  did  not  fall  more  than  an  inch  deep. 
At  four  we  set  out,  went  six  miles,  and  encamped  on  the 
North  side  in  a  beautiful  bottom. 

Friday  3.  We  proceeded  on  our  voyage  this  morn- 
ing, though  very  cold  and  disagreeable,  and  a  severe  frost, 
The  snow  and  green  grass  on  the  prairie  exhibited  an  ap- 


80      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

pearance  somewhat  uncommon.  The  cotton  wood  leaves 
are  as  large  as  dollars,  notwithstanding  the  snow  and  such 
hard  frost.  We  passed  a  small  river  on  the  north  side 
called  the  2000  mile  river.  About  a  mile  above  we  pass- 
ed a  larga  creek  on  the  South  side,  called  Porcupine 
Creek.  We  came  this  day  about  20  miles  and  encamped 
on  the  North  side. 

Saturday  4.  This  day  was  more  pleasant:  in  the  fore- 
noon we  passed  a  creek  on  the  South  side,  about  40  yards 
wide.  The  river  has  been  more  straight  for  two  or  three 
days  than  it  was  before;  the  bottoms  larger  and  more 
timber  on  them.  We  went  about  eighteen  miles  and  en- 
camped on  the  north  side.  One  of  the  men  became  sick 
this  morning  and  has  remained  so  all  day. 

Sunday  5.  The  morning  was  fine  with  some  white 
frost.  During  this  day  the  country  appeared  beautiful 
on  both  sides  of  the  river.  We  went  sixteen  miles  and 
encamped  on  the  North  side.  The  sick  man  has  be- 
come better.  Here  we  killed  a  very  large  brown  bear, 
which  measured  three  feet  five  inches  round  the  head; 
three  feet  eleven  inches  round  the  neck;  round  the  breast 
five  feet  ten  and  a  half  inches;  the  length  eight  feet  sev- 
en and  a  half  inches;  round  the  middle  of  the  fore  leg 
twenty-three  inches ;  and  his  talons  four  inches  and  three 
eights  of  an  inch. 

Monday  6.  We  set  sail  with  a  fair  wind  and  plea- 
sant weather.  At  twelve  a  few  drops  of  rain  fell,  but  it 
soon  cleared  up.  We  passed  a  river  on  the  South  side 
about  200  yards  wide ;  but  the  water  of  this  river  sinks 
in  the  sand  on  the  side  of  the  Missouri.  We  went  twen- 
ty-six miles  and  encamped  on  the  South  side. 

Tuesday  7.  We  again  set  out  early  and  went  on  very 
well  till  twelve  when  it  began  to  blow  hard,  and  being  all 
under  sail  one'  of  our  canoes  turned  over.  Fortunately 
the  accident  happened  near  the  shore;  and  after  halting 
three  hours  we  were  able  to  go  on  again.  Having  this 
day  made  sixteen  miles  we  encamped  on  the  South  side. 

Wednesday  8.  We  were  again  very  early  under  way 
in  a  cloudy  morning;  about  twelve  some  rain  fell:  at  two 
we  passed  a  handsome  river  on  the  North  side  about  200 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  81 

yards  wide  called  Milk  River.  There  is  a  good  deal  of 
water  in  this  river  which  is  clear,  and  its  banks  beau- 
tiful. Our  distance  this  day  was  about  twenty-seven 
miles,  and  we  encamped  in  a  beautiful  bottom  on  the 
South  side. 

Thursday  9.  We  proceeded  on  early  and  had  a  fine 
day.  The  country  on  both  sides  begins  to  be  more  bro- 
ken, and  the  river  more  crooked.  At  one,  we  passed  a 
creek  on  the  South  side,  and  having  made  about  25  miles 
we  encamped  at  the  mouth  of  a  creek  on  the  North  side, 
called  by  the  name  of  Warner's  Creek. 

Friday  10.  We  sat  out  early  in  a  fair  morning;  but 
having  gone  five  miles  were  obligsd  to  halt  and  lie  by 
during  the  day,  on  account  of  hard  wind.  Some  small 
showers  of  rain  occasionally  fall.  Hare  we  killed  some 
deer  and  buffalo  and  took  some  b savor. 

Saturday  1 1 .  The  morning  was  fine,  we  started  at 
the  usual  hour:  at  one  passed  a  small  creek  on  the  South 
side.  This  day  we  saw  several  gangs  of  buffalo,  and 
other  game  in  plenty.  One  of  the  men  killed  another 
large  brown  bear,  about  the  size  of  the  one  lately  killed. 
We  came  seventeen  miles  and  encamped  on  the  South 
sida. 

Sunday  12.  We  early  renewed  our  voyage  and  had 
a  pleasant  morning;  passed  some  hills  on  the  North  side, 
covered  with  pine  and  cedar,  the  first  timber  of  any  kind 
we  have  seen  on  the  hills  for  a  long  time.  At  one  we 
halted  for  dinner  and  a  violent  storm  of  wind  then  arose, 
which  continued  until  night  when  some  rain  fell.  Our 
distance  this  day  only  13  £  miles. 

Monday  13.  The  weather  continued  stormy,  and 
some  few  drops  of  rain  fell.  At  one  P.  M.  we  embarked, 
passed  three  creeks,  one  on  the  North  side  and  two  on  the 
South;  went  seven  miles,  and  encamped  in  a  largo 
bottom. 

Tuesday  14.  There  was  some  white  frost  in  the 
morning,  we  proceeded  on  early;  passed  black  hills  close 
to  the  river  on  the  South  side  and  some  covered  with  pine 
timber  at  a  distance.  About  twelve  the  day  became  warm. 
Banks  of  snow  were  seen  lying  on  the  hills  on  the  North 
6 


82      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

side.  This  forenoon  we  passed  a  large  creek  on  the  North 
side  and  a  small  river  on  the  South.  About  four  in  the 
afternoon  we  passed  another  small  river  on  the  South 
side  near  the  mouth  of  which  some  of  the  men  discover- 
ed a  large  brown  bear,  and  six  of  them  went  out  to  kill  it. 
They  fired  at  it;  but  having  only  wounded  it,  it  made  bat- 
tle and  was  near  seizing  some  of  them,  but  they  all  for- 
tunately escaped,  and  at  length,  succeeded  in  dispatching 
it.  These  bears  are  very  bold  and  ferocious;  and  very 
large  and  powerful.  The  natives  say  they  have  killed  a 
number  of  their  brave  men.  The  penogues  having  gone 
ahead,  while  the  people  belonging  to  the  canoes  were 
dressing  the  bear,  a  sudden  gust  of  wind  arose,  which 
overset  one  of  the  periogues  before  the  sail  could  be  got 
down.  The  men  who  had  been  en  board,  turned  it  again 
and  got  it  to  shore,  full  of  water.  It  was  immediately 
unloaded  and  the  cargo  opened,  when  we  found  a  great 
part  of  the  medicine,  and  other  articles  spoiled.  Here 
we  encamped,  having  come  to  day  18J  miles. 

Wednesday  15.  We  remained  here  all  day  to  dry 
our  baggage  that  had  got  wet.  It  was  cloudy  and  unfa- 
vorable for  the  purpose,  and  some  rain  fell. 

Thursday  16.  This  was  a  fine  day,  and  by  4  o'clock 
in  the  afternoon  we  had  all  our  articles  dry  and  on  board 
again.  At  that  time  we  proceeded  on  our  voyage ;  pass- 
ed high  barren  hills  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  with  only 
a  few  pine  trees  on  them.  We  advanced  seven  miles  and 
encamped  in  a  handsome  bottom  on  the  South  side  where 
there  are  a  number  of  old  Indian  huts. 

Friday  17.  The  morning  was  fine  and  we  embarked 
early.  The  hills  here  come  very  close  to  the  river  on 
both  sides,  and  have  very  little  timber  on  them.  They 
are  very  high  and  much  washed.  There  are  some  of 
them,  which  at  a  distance  resemble  ancient  steeples.  We 
passed  two  rivers,  one  on  each  side.  During  the  whole 
of  this  day's  voyage  the  Missouri  was  very  handsome, 
and  about  300  yards  wide.  We  made  20£  miles  and  en- 
camped on  the  South  side. 

Saturday  18.  A  cloudy  morning.  We  proceeded  a& 
usual.  The  country  much  the  same  as  yesterday;  until 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  83 

about  12  o'clock,  when  the  bottoms  became  more  exten- 
sive on  both  sides  of  the  river.  There  is  still  a  small 
quantity  of  pine  timber  on  the  hills.  We  had  some 
showers  of  rain  in  the  forenoon ;  hail  in  the  afternoon; 
and  a  fine  clear  evening.  We  went  nineteen  miles  and 
encamped  on  the  South  side  opposite  an  island. 

Sunday  19.  The  morning  was  foggy  and  there  was 
some  dew.  The  river  is  handsome  and  the  country 
mountainous.  We  made  20^  miles  and  encamped  on  the 
North  side  in  a  small  bottom. 

Monday  20.  We  set  sail  early  and  had  a  fine  morn- 
ing. Passed  a  creek  on  the  south  side  and  about  eleven 
came  to  the  mouth  of  the  Muscle-shell  Kiver,  a  handsome 
river  that  comes  in  on  the  South  side.  The  water  of  the 
Missouri  is  becoming  more  clear.  We  here  spent  the 
remainder  of  the  day,  having  come  seven  miles.  Cap- 
tain Lewis  had  an  observation  here,  which  gave  47°.  00. 
24.  North  latitude:  and  Captain  Clarke  measured  the 
rivers.  The  Missouri  here  is  22*2  yards  wide,  and  the 
Muscle-shell  110  yards.  The  water  of  the  latter  is  of  a 
pale  color,  and  the  current  is  not  rapid ;  its  mouth  is  660 
miles  above  Fort  Mandans. 

Tuesday  21.  We  proceeded  on  early  and  had  a  fine 
morning;  towards  the  middle  of  the  day  the  wind  blew 
hard ;  but  we  went  on  very  well  for  £0  miles,  and  en- 
camped on  a  sand-beach  on  the  North  side. 

Wednesday  22.  A  cloudy  morning.  The  wind  blew 
so  hard  this  morning,  we  did  not  get  under  way  until  9 
o'clock.  The  forenoon  was  cold  and  disagreeable,  but 
the  afternoon  became  more  pleasant.  We  killed  a  brown 
bear  and  some  other  game  on  our  way.  Having  gone 
16|-  miles  we  encamped  on  the  North  side. 

Thursday  23.  The  morning  was  clear  with  a  white 
frost,  and  ice  as  thick  as  window  glass.  We  passed  two 
creeks,  one  on  each  side  of  the  river:  and  two  Islands, 
which  are  not  common.  There  are  very  few  between 
these  and  Fort  Mandans,  not  more  than  six  or  eight.  In 
the  evening  we  killed  a  large  bear  in  the  river ;  but  he 


84  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE? 

sunk  and  we  did  not  get  him.*  We  went  28J  miles  and 
encamped. 

Friday  24.  There  was  again  some  white  frost  this 
morning.  We  embarked  early;  passed  a  large  creek  on 
the  North  side  and  a  beautiful  Island  close  on  the  South- 
ern shore.  At  the  head  of  the  Island,  came  in  another 
creek  on  the  South  side.  The  bottom  of  the  river,  and 
sand-bars  have  become  much  more  gravelly  than  we 
found  them  at  any  place  lower  down.  The  water  is  high, 
rapid  and  more  clear.  At  dinner  time  a  party  was  sent 
out  to  bring  the  meat  of  some  animals  that  had  been  kill- 
ed at  a  distance.  Here  we  left  two  canoes  to  wait  for 
them  and  proceeded  on.  WTe  passed  a  creek  on  the 
North  side,  and  having  made  24^  miles  encamped  on  the 
South  side.  The  hills  are  near,  on  both  sides  of  the 
river,  and  very  high. 

Saturday  25.  We  waited  here  in  the  morning  until 
the  canoes  came  up ;  and  about  seven  proceeded  on  our 
voyage.  The  forenoon  was  pleasant.  We  passed  two 
creeks  opposite  to  each  other  on  the  opposite  sides  of  the 
river.  About  twelve  we  passed  a  bottom  on  the*  North 
side  with  one  solitary  tree  on  it,  upon  which  there  was 
an  eagle's  nest.  The  bottoms  here  are  very  small.  As 
we  went  on  this  afternoon,  some  of  the  party  killed  three 
of  what  the  French  and  natives  call  mountain  sheep;  but 
they  very  little  resemble  sheep,  except  in  the  head,  horns 
and  feet.  They  are  of  a  dun  color  except  on  the  belly 
and  round  the  rump,  where  they  are  white.  The  horns 
of  the  male  are  very  large;  those  of  the  female  small. 
They  have  a  fine  soft  hair.  Captain  Clarke  calls  them 
the  Ibex,  and  says  they  resemble  that  animal  more  than 
any  other.  They  are  in  size  somewhat  larger  than  a 
deer.  The  hills  here  are  very  high  and  steep.  One  of 
our  men  in  an  attempt  to  climb  one  had  his  shoulder  dis- 
located ;  it  was  however  replaced  without  much  difficulty. 
These  hills  are  very  much  washed  in  general:  they 
appear  like  great  heaps  of  clay,  washing  away  with 
every  shower ;  with  scarcely  any  herbs  or  grass  on  any 

*  It  is  said  that  bears,  beavers,  otters  and  such  animals  will  sink 
unless  shot  dead. 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  85 

of  them.  This  evening  we  passed  an  island  all  prairie 
except  a  few  trees  on  the  upper  end  of  it.  We  went  18 
miles  and  encamped  on  the  South  side. 

Sunday  26.  We  set  out  early  in  a  fine  morning,  and 
passed  through  a  desert  country ;  in  which  there  is  no 
timber  on  any  part,  except  a  few  scattered  pines  on  the 
hills.  We  saw  few  animals  of  any  kind,  but  the  Ibex  or 
mountain  sheep.  One  of  our  men  killed  a  male,  which 
had  horns  two  feet  long,  and  four  inches  diameter  at  the 
root.  *  We  passed  two  creeks  this  forenoon  on  the  North 

*  "The  Ibex  resembles  the  goat  in  the  shape  of  its  body;  but 
differs  in  the  horns  which  are  much  larger.  They  are  bent  back- 
wards, full  of  knots;  and  it  is  generally  asserted  that  there  is  a  knot 
added  every  year.  There  are  some  of  these  found  if  we  may 
believe  Bellonius,  at  least  two  yards  long.  The  Ibex  has  a  large 
black  beard,  is  of  a  brown  color,  with  a  thick  woven  coat  of  hair. 
There  is  a  streak  of  black  runs  along  the  top  of  the  back;  and  the 
belly  and  back  of  the  thighs  are  of  a  fawn  color.  It  is  a  native  of 
the  Alps,  the  Pyrenees,  and  mountains  of  Greece;  extremely  swift 
and  capable  of  running  with  ease  along  the  edges  of  precipices, 
where  even  the  Wolf  or  the  Fox,  though  instigated  by  hunger, 
dares  not  pursue  it."  Goldsmith. 

Such  is  the  description  given  of  the  Ibex;  but  which  to  us  does 
not  appear  to  suit  the  animal  found  about  the  Rocky  Mountains 
called  the  mountain  Ram.  From  what  we  have  before  heard  of 
that  animal,  and  from  Mr.  Gass's  verbal  description,  we  are  led  to 
believe,  that  it  much  more  nearly  resembles  the  wild  sheep,  called 
the  Mufflon  or  Musmon,  to  be  found  in  the  uncultivated  parts  of 
Greece,  Sardinia,  Corsica  and  in  the  desart  of  Tartary;  and  which 
is  thought  to  be  the  primitive  race  and  the  real  sheep  in  its  wild  and 
savage  state.  Perhaps  it  may  be  found  to  be  exactly  the  same;  of 
which  we  find  the  following  description. 

"The  Mufflon,  or  Musmon,  though  covered  with  hair,  bears  a 
stronger  similitude  to  the  Ram  than  to  any  other  animal;  like  the 
Ram  it  has  the  eyes  placed  near  the  horns;  and  its  ears  are  shorter 
than  those  of  the  Goat:  it  also  resembles  the  Ram  in  its  horns,  and 
in  all  the  particular  contours  of  its  form.  The  horns  also  are  alike; 
they  are  of  a  white  or  yellow  color;  they  have  three  sides  as  in  the 
Ram,  and  bend  backwards  in  the  same  manner  behind  the  ears. — 
The  muzzle  and  inside  of  the  ears  are  of  a  whitish  color  tinctured 
with  yellow;  the  other  parts  of  the  face  are  of  a  brownish  grey. 
The  general  color  of  the  hair  over  the  body  is  of  a  brown,  approach- 
ing to  that  of  the  red  deer.  The  inside  of  the  thighs  and  belly  are 
of  a  white,  tinctured  with  yellow.  The  form  upon  the  whole  seems 
more  made  for  agility  and  strength  than  that  of  the  common  sheep; 
and  th«  Mufflon  is  actually  found  to  live  in  a  savage  state,  and  main- 


86      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

'4side;  and  in  the  evening  one  of  the  men  killed  a  buffalo. 
At  dark  we  came  to  large  rapids,  where  we  had  to  unite 
the  crews  of  two  or  three  canoes,  to  force  them  through. 
It  was  sometime  after  night  before  we  could  encamp. — 
We  at  length,  after  having  gone  21  miles  encamped  on 
the  South  side  in  a  small  grove  of  timber ;  the  first  we 
had  seen  during  the  day. 

Monday  27.  We  have  now  got  into  a  country  which 
presents  little  to  our  view,  but  scenes  of  barrenness  and 
desolation;  and  see  no  encouraging  prospects  that  it  will 
terminate.  Having  proceeded  (by  the  course  of  this 
river)  about  two  thousand  three  hundred  miles,  it  may 
therefore  not  be  improper  to  make  two  or  three  general 
observations  respecting  the  country  we  have  passed. 

From  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri  to  that  of  the  river 
Platte,  a  distance  of  more  than  six  hundred  miles,  the 
land  is  generally  of  a  good  quality,  with  a  sufficient  quan- 
tity of  timber;  in  many  places  very  nch,  and  the  country 
pleasant  and  beautiful. 

From  the  confluence  of  the, river  Platte  with  the  Mis- 
souri to  the  Sterile  desert,  we  lately  entered,  a  distance  of 
upwards  of  fifteen  hundred  miles  the  soil  is  less  rich,  and 
except  in  the  bottoms,  the  land  of  an  inferior  quality; 
but  may  in  .general  be  called  good  second  rate  land.  The 
country  is  rather  hilly  than  level,  though  not  mountain- 
ous, rocky  or  stony.  The  hills  in  their  unsheltered  state 
are  much  exposed  to  be  washed  by  heavy  rains.  This 
kind  of  country  and  soil  which  has  fallen  under  our 
observation  in  our  progress  up  the  Missouri,  extends  it  is 
understood,  to  a  great  distance  on  both  sides  of  the  river. 
Along  the  Missouri  and  the  waters  which  flow  into  it, 
cotton  wood  and  willows  are  frequent  in  the  bot- 
toms and  islands;  but  the  upland  is  almost  entirely  with- 

tain  itself  either  by  force  or  swiftness  against  all  the  animals  that 
live  by  rapine.  Such  is  its  extreme  speed  that  many  have  been 
inclined  rather  to  rank  it  among  the  deer  kind,  than  the  sheep.— 
But  in  this  they  are  deceived,  as  the  Musmon  has  a  mark  that 
entirely  distinguishes  it  from  that  species,  being  known  never  to 
shed  its  horns.  In  some  these  are  seen  to  grow  to  a  surprising  size; 
many  of  them  measuring,  in  their  convolutions,  above  two  ells 
long "  Goldsmith 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  87 

out  timber,  and  consists  of  large  prairies  or  plains  the 
boundaries  of  which  the  eye  cannot  reach.  The  grass 
is  generally  short  on  these  immense  natural  pastures, 
which  in  the  proper  seasons  are  decorated  with  blossoms 
and  flowers  of  various  colors.  The  views  from  the  hills 
are  interesting  and  grand.  Wide  extended  plains  with 
their  hills  and  vales,  stretching  away  in  lessening  wavy 
ridges,  until  by  their  distance  they  fade  from  the  sight; 
large  rivers  and  streams  in  their  rapid  course,  winding  in 
various  meanders;  groves  of  cotton  wood  and  willow 
along  the  waters  intersecting  the  landscapes  in  different 
directions,  dividing  them  into  various  forms,  at  length 
appearing  like  dark  clouds  and  sinking  in  the  horizon; 
these  enlivened  with  the  buffalo,  elk,  deer,  and  other 
animals  which  in  vast  numbers  feed  upon  the  plains  or 
pursue  their  prey,  are  the  prominent  objects,  which  com- 
pose the  extensive  prospects  presented  to  the  view  and 
strike  the  attention  of  the  beholder. 

The  islands  in  the  Missouri  are  of  various  sizes;  in 
general  not  large,  and  during  high  water  mostly  over- 
flowed. 

There  are  Indian  paths  along  the  Missouri  and  some  in 
other  parts  of  the  country.  Those  along  that  river  do 
not  generally  follow  its  windings  but  cut  off  points  of 
land  and  pursue  a  direct  course.  There  are  also  roads 
and  paths  made  by  the  buffalo  and  other  animals ;  some 
of  the  buffalo  roads  are  at  least  ten  feet  wide.  We  did 
not  embark  this  morning  until  8  o'clock.  The  day  was 
fine,  but  the  wind  ahead.  We  had  difficult  water,  and 
passed  through  the  most  dismal  country  I  ever  beheld; 
nothing  but  barren  mountains  on  both  sides  of  the  river, 
as  far  as  our  view  could  extend.  The  bed  of  the  river 
is  rocky,  and  also  the  banks  and  hills  in  some  places;  but 
these  are  chiefly  of  earth.  We  went  thirteen  miles  and 
encamped  in  a  bottom,  just  large  enough  for  the  purpose, 
and  made  out  to  get  enough  of  drift  wood  to  cook  with. 

Tuesday  28.  We  set  sail  early,  had  a  fine  morning, 
and  proceeded  on  through  this  desert  country  until  about 
4  o'clock  P.  M.  when  we  came  to  a  more  pleasant  part. 
We  made  twenty-one  miles  and  encamped  on  the  North 
side. 


88      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

Wednesday  29.  We  proceeded  on  early  and  had  a 
fine  morning:  passed  two  rivers,  one  on  each  side.  At 
twelve  it  became  cloudy  and  began  to  rain.  We  went 
about  eighteen  miles  and  halted  at  a  handsome  grove  of 
timber  on  the  South  side.  It  rained  a  little  all  the  after- 
noon. Some  of  the  men  went  out  to  hunt  and  killed  an 
elk.  Last  night  about  12  o'clock  a  buffalo  swimming  the 
river  happened  to  land  at  one  of  the  periogues,  crossed 
over  it  and  broke  two  guns,  but  not  so  as  to  render  them 
useless.  He  then  went  strait  on  through  the  men  where 
they  were  sleeping,  but  hurt  none  of  them.  As  we  came 
along  to  day  we  passed  a  place  where  the  Indians  had 
driven  above  an  hundred  head  of  buffaio  down  a  preci- 
pice and  killed  them. 

Thursday  30.  The  forenoon  was  cloudy,  with  some 
rain.  We  did  not  set  out  till  late  in  the  day.  The  hills 
came  in  close  on  the  river  again,  but  are  not  so  high. 
Some  of  them  are  as  black  as  coal  and  some  white  as 
chalk.  We  see  a  great  many  fresh  Indian  tracks  or  signs 
as  we  pass  along.  It  rained  a  little  all  day;  we  went  on 
slow  and  encamped  early  on  the  North  side,  in  a  small 
bottom  with  some  cotton  wood,  having  proceeded  on  eight 
miles.  There  are  no  pines  to  be  seen  on  the  hills. 

Friday  31.  We  embarked  early  in  a  cloudy  morning; 
passed  through  a  mountainous  country,  but  the  game  is 
more  plenty,  and  we  killed  some  buffalo  in  our  way. 
About  1 1  o'clock  it  began  to  rain  slowly,  and  continued 
raining  two  hours,  when  it  cleared  up.  We  passed  some 
very  curious  cliffs  and  rocky  peaks,  in  a  long  range. — 
Some  of  them  200  feet  high  and  not  more  than  8  feet  thick. 

They  seem  as  if  built  by  the  hand  of  man,  and  are  so 
numerous  that  they  appear  like  the  ruins  of  an  ancient 
city.  We  went  1 7^  miles  and  encamped  at  the  mouth  of 
a  handsome  creek  on  the  North  side. 

Saturday,  June  1,  1805.  We  embarked  early.  The 
morning  was  cloudy,  but  without  rain.  We  passed 
through  a  more  handsome  country,  than  for  some  days 
past.  It  appears  more  level  and  there  are  some  good 
bottoms  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  but  not  large;  also  a 
number  of  beautiful  small  islands  covered  with  cotton 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  89 

wood.  We  saw  a  number  of  mountain  sheep.  Yester- 
day our  men  killed  three  of  them,  that  had  remarkable 
large  horns ;  one  pair  weighed  25  pounds.  We  passed  a 
small  river  on  the  North  side  about  1 1  o'clock.  The 
•water  is  not  so  rapid  to  day  as  usual,  but  continues  high. 
In  the  afternoon  we  passed  a  creek  about  30  yards  wide, 
and  several  small  islands.  We  went  24  miles  and 
encamped  on  a  small  island. 

Sunday  2.  We  embarked  early  in  a  fine  morning. 
The  hills  come  close  on  the  river,  but  are  not  so  high 
nor  so  broken ,  as  we  found  them  a  short  distance  lower 
down.  This  forenoon  we  passed  two  creeks,  one  on 
each  side,  and  several  islands  covered  with  cotton  wood; 
but  there  is  not  a  stick  of  timber  to  be  seen  any  where 
upon  the  hills.  Some  of  the  hunters  killed  a  brown 
bear  in  a  small  bottom  on  the  south  side,  and  having 
come  1 8  miles  we  encamped  just  above  the  bottom  on  the 
same  side,  at  the  mouth  ol  a  large  river. 

Monday  3.  We  crossed  over  to  the  point  between 
the  two  rivers  and  encamped  there.  The  commanding 
officers  could  not  determine  which  of  these  rivers  or 
branches,  it  was  proper  to  take;  and  therefore  concluded 
to  send  a  small  party  up  each  of  them.  Myself  and 
two  men  went  up  the  South  branch,  and  a  serjeant  and 
two  more  up  the  North.  The  parties  went  up  the  two 
branches  about  15  miles.  We  found  the  South  branch 
rapid  with  a  great  many  islands  and  the  general  course 
South  West.  The  other  party  reported  the  North  branch 
as  less  rapid,  and  not  so  deep  as  the  other.  The  North 
branch  is  1 86  yards  wide  and  the  South  372  yards.  The 
water  of  the  South  branch  is  clear,  and  that  of  the  North 
muddy.  About  a  mile  and  a  half  up  the  point  from 
the  confluence,  a  handsome  small  river  falls  into  the 
North  branch,  called  Rose  river.  Its  Water  is  muddy, 
and  the  current  rapid.  Captain  Lewis  took  a  meridian 
altitude  at  the  point,  which  gave  47°.  24.  12.  North  lati- 
tude. Captain  Lewis  and  Captain  Clarke  were  not  yet 
satisfied  with  respect  to  the  proper  river  to  ascend. 

Tuesday  4.  Captain  Lewis  with  six  men  went  up  the 
North  branch,  to  see  if  they  could  find  any  certain  markg 


90       JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

to  determine  whether  that  was  the  Missouri  or  not;  and 
Captain  Clarke  myself  and  four  others  went  up  the  South 
branch,  for  the  same  purpose  with  regard  to  that  branch. 
About  eight  miles  above  the  confluence,  the  South  branch 
and  the  small  river  which  falls  into  the  North  branch, 
are  not  more  than  200  yards  apart.  Near  this  place  and 
close  on  the  bank  of  the  South  branch  is  a  beautiful 
spring  where  we  refreshed  ourselves  with  a  good  drink 
ot"  grog;  and  proceeded  on  through  the  high  plains. 
Here  nothing  grows  but  prickly  pears,  which  are  in  abun- 
dance, and  some  short  grass.  We  went  on  about  thirty 
miles  and  found  the  river  still  extending  in  a  South  West 
direction.  We  saw  a  mountain  to  the  South  about  20 
miles  off,  which  appeared  to  run  East  and  West,  and 
some  spots  on  it  resembling  snow.  In  the  evening  we 
went  towards  the  river  to  encamp,  whera  one  of  the  men 
having  got  down  to  a  small  point  of  woods  on  the  bank, 
before  the  rest  of  the  party,  was  attacked  by  a  huge  he 
bear,  and  his  gun  missed  fire.  We  were  about  200  yards 
from  him,  but  the  bank  there  was  so  steep  we  could  not 
get  down  to  his  assistance:  we,  however,  firsd  at  the  ani- 
mal from  the  place  where  we  stood  and  he  went  off  with- 
out injuring  the  man.  Having  got  down  we  all  encamp- 
ed in  an  old  Indian  lodge  for  the  night. 

Wednesday  5.  Some  slight  showers  of  arain  fell  in 
the  night,  and  the  morning  was  cloudy.  When  prepar- 
ing to  set  out  we  discovered  three  bears  coming  up  the 
river  towards  us;  W3  therefore  halted  awhile  and  killed 
the  whole  of  them.  About  seven  we  set  out  along  the 
plains  again,  and  discovered  the  mountain  South  of  us 
covered  with  snow,  that  had  fallen  last  night.  When  we 
had  gone  about  1 1  miles  we  saw  a  large  mountain  to  the 
West  of  us  also  covered  with  snow.  This  mountain  ap- 
peared to  run  from  North  to  South,  and  to  be  very  high. 
The  bearing  of  the  river  is  still  South  West.  Captain 
Clarke  thought  this  a  good  course  for  us  to  proceed  on  our 
voyage,  and  we  turned  back  towards  the  camp  again. 
We  went  about  15  miles  and  struck  the  small  river  about 
20  miles  from  its  mouth.  Here  we  killed  some  elk  and 
deer  and  encamped  all  night.  There  is  a  great  deal  of 


92  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

timber  in  the  bottoms  of  this  little  river,  and  plenty  of 
different  kinds  of  game.  In  these  bottoms  I  saw  the 
stalks  of  a  plant  resembling  flax  in  every  particular. 

Thursday  6.  We  proceeded  down  the  small  river 
and  killed  some  deer.  About  1  o'clock  we  went  on  the 
plains  again,  which  we  kept  on  till  we  came  to  the  point 
in  the  evening.  Captain  Lewis  and  his  party  had  not 
returned.  Some  light  rain  fell  this  afternoon. 

Friday  7.  It  rained  all  day:  Captain  Lewis  and  party 
did  not  return. 

Saturday  8.  A  fine  cool  morning.  About  10  o'clock 
A.  M.  the  water  of  the  South  river,  or  branch,  became 
almost  of  the  color  of  claret,  and  remained  so  all  day. 
The  water  of  the  other  branch  has  the  appearance  of 
milk  when  contrasted  with  the  water  of  this  branch  in  its 
present  state.  About  four  in  the  afternoon  Captain 
Lewis  and  his  party  came  to  camp.  They  had  been  up 
the  North  branch  about  60  miles,  and  found  it  navigable 
that  distance ;  not  so  full  of  islands  as  the  other  branch 
and  a  greater  quantity  of  timber  near  it  and  plenty  of 
game,  which  is  not  the  case  on  the  South  branch.  Its 
bearing  something  north  of  west  a  considerable  distance, 
and  then  to  the  south  of  west.  The  party  while  out  kill- 
ed eighteen  deer  and  some  elk.  From  the  appearance  of 
the  river  where  they  left  it  to  return,  they  supposed  it 
might  be  navigable  a  considerable  distance  further. — 
They  saw  no  mountains  ahead,  but  one  off  towards  the 
north:  it  was  not  covered  with,  snow  like  those  we  had 
seen.  Both  these  rivers  abound  in  fish;  and  we  caught 
some  of  different  kinds,  but  not  large.  About  5  o'clock 
in  the  afternoon  the  weather  became  cloudy  and  cold, 
and  it  began  to  rain.  The  officers  concluded  that  the 
South  branch  was  the  most  proper  to  ascend,  which  they 
think  is  the  Missouri.  The  other  they  called  Maria's 
river.  At  dark  the  rain  ceased. 

Sunday  9.  A  fine  morning.  It  was  thought  advisa- 
ble to  leave  the  large  periogue  here  and  part  of  the  stores 
and  baggage,  and  some  of  the  men  were  engaged  in  dig- 
ging a  case  to  bury  them  in.  The  water  of  the  Missouri 
changed  this  morning  to  its  former  color.  The  day  was 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  93 

fine,  but  the  wind  blew  hard  from  the  northwest.  One  of 
the  men  killed  an  excellent  fat  buffalo.  There  is  a  quan- 
tity of  goose-berry  and  choak-cherry  bushes  on  the  point, 
and  also  some  rabbit  berries. 

Monday  10.  We  hauled  our  large  periogue  on  an 
island  in  the  mouth  of  Maria's  river  and  covered  it  over 
with  brush.  We  then  began  to  examine  and  assort  our 
effects  to  see  what  would  be  the  least  wanted  and  most 
proper  to  leave;  but  about  two  it  began  to  rain  and  blow 
so  hard,  we  were  obliged  to  desist.  The  rain  continued 
only  an  hour,  and  in  the  evening  we  loaded  the  rest  of 
the  craft,  and  left  the  remainder  of  our  stores  and  bag- 
gage to  be  hurried,  consisting  of  corn,  pork,  flour,  some 
powder  and  lead,  and  other  articles  amounting  to  about 
one  thousand  pounds  weight. 

Tuesday  11.  A  fine  day.  Captain  Lewis  and  four 
men  set  out  this  morning  to  go  to  the  mountains,  which 
we  had  discovered  towards  the  west.  The  rest  of  the 
party  were  engaged  in  hurrying  the  baggage  and  goods 
which  had  been  left,  and  preparing  to  start  the  following 
morning. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Wednesday  12.  The  morning  was  fine;  we  set  out 
from  the  mouth  of  Maria's  river,  and  went  ton  very  well. 
In  the  forenoon  we  passed  twelve  islands.  At  1  o'clock 
the  weather  became  cloudy  and  threatened  ram;  at  two 
there  was  a  light  shower,  and  the  day  became  clear.  We 
passed  three  islands  this  afternoon  and  some  handsome 
bluffs  on  both  sides  of  the  river.  We  went  18  miles  and 
encamped  in  a  small  bottom  on  the  North  side,  where  we 
killed  two  elk  and  some  deer. 

Thursday  13.  We  set  out  early  in  a  fine  morning, 
Some  dew  fell  last  night.  We  passed  a  large  creek  on 
the  South  side,  called  Snow  creek.  The  water  of  the 
rirer  is  very  clear  and  the  current  very  rapid.  We  pass- 


94      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

ed  a  number  of  islands  covered  with  timber;  but  there  is 
none  to  be  seen  on  the  hills  on  either  side.  We  went 
14  miles  and  encamped  on  the  South  side. 

Friday  14:  We  embarked  early,  and  the  morning 
was  pleasant.  About  7  o'clock  A.  M.  we  passed  a  place 
where  Captain  Lewis  and  his  men  had  killed  two  bears, 
and  had  left  a  note  directing  us  where  to  find  them. 
About  two,  one  of  Captain  Lewis'  men  met  us,  and 
informed  us  that  the  falls  were  about  20  miles  above; 
and  that  Captain  Lewis  and  the  other  three  men,  were 
gone  on  to  examine  what  the  distance  was  above  the  falls, 
before  we  could  take  water  again.  We  went  ten  miles 
and  encamped  on  a  small  bottom  on  the  South  side. 

Saturday  15.  WTe  proceeded  on  as  usual,  but  had  the 
most  rapid  water,  I  ever  saw  any  craft  taken  through. 
At  noon  we  stopped  at  the  mouth  of  a  creek  on  the  South 
side,  called  Strawberry  creek,  a  handsome  rapid  stream, 
but  not  large.  On  a  point  above,  there  is  a  great  quanti- 
ty of  Strawberry,  gooseberry  and  choak-cherry  bushes; 
and  there  appears  to  be  a  good  deal  of  small  cotton-wood 
on  the  banks  of  this  creek.  In  the  afternoon  we  passed 
red  bluffs  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  and  at  night  came  to 
a  large  rapid  which  we  did  not  venture  to  pass  so  late; 
and  therefore  encamped  below  on  the  North  side,  after 
going  12  miles. 

Sunday  16.  In  the  morning  all  hands  were  engaged 
in  taking  the  canoes  over  the  rapid  about  a  mile  in  length, 
which  having  accomplished  they  returned  and  took  up  the 
periogue,  where  we  halted  to  examine  an  other  great  rapid 
close  ahead.  One  man  had  been  senir^on  last  night  to 
Captain  Lewis,  to  find  out  what  discoveries  he  had  made, 
We  remained  here  some  time,  and  a  few  of  the  men 
went  out  to  hunt.  About  noon  Captain  Lewis  and  the 
party  with  him  joined  us,  and  the  hunters  came  in.  Cap- 
tain Lewis  had  been  up  to  the  falls,  15  miles  above  the 
first  shoot  or  pitch,  and  found  the  falls  continue  all  that 
distance,  in  which  there  were  five  different  shoots,  40  or 
50  feet  perpendicular  each,  and  very  rapid  water  between 
them.  As  we  found  the  South  side  the  best  to  carry  our 
canoes  up,  we  crossed  over  and  unloaded  our  craft.  We 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  95 

then  had  to  take  the  empty  canoes  to  the  side  we  had  left, 
and  to  tow  them  up  by  a  line  about  a  mile,  in  order  to  get 
them  up  to  the  mouth  of  a  small  river  on  the  South  side, 
as  a  more  convenient  place  to  take  them  up  the  bank. 
This  business  was  attended  with  great  difficulty  as  well 
as  danger,  but  we  succeeded  in  getting  them  all  over  safe. 

Monday  17.  Part  of  the  men  were  employed  in 
taking  the  canoes  up  the  small  river  about  a  mile  and  a 
half;  and  some  engaged  in  making  small  wagons  to 
haul  the  canoes  and  loading  above  the  falls.  Captain 
Clarke  and  four  men  went  out  to  view  and  survey  our 
road  to  the  place  where  we  were  to  embark  above  the 
falls.  Opposite  the  mouth  of  the  small  river,  a  beauti- 
ful sulphur  spring  rises  out  of  the  bank,  of  as  strong 
sulphur  water  as  I  have  ever  seen.  On  the  bottoms  of 
this  small  river  and  also  on  the  Missouri  is  a  great  quan- 
tity of  flax  growing,  and  at  this  time  in  bloom.  Two  men 
went  out  this  morning  to  hunt  for  elk,  in  order  to  get 
their  skins  for  covering  to  the  iron  frame  of  a  boat  we 
had  with  us.  In  the  evening  the  men  got  the  canoes  to  a 
proper  place  to  take  them  upon  land. 

Tuesday  18-.  The  periogue  was  hauled  out  of  the 
water  and  laid  safe;  and  some  men  went  to  dig  a  place 
for  depositing  more  of  our  baggage.  About  twelve  the 
two  hunters  came  in,  arid  could  find  no  elk,  but  killed  10 
deer.  In  the  evening-  we  completed  our  wagons,  which 
were  made  altogether  of  wood,  and  of  a  very  ordinary 
quality;  but  it  is  expected  they  will  answer  the  purpose. 

Wednesday  19.  A  fine  day,  but  the  wind  very  high. 
Three  hunters  set  out  for  Medicine  River,  a  large  river 
above  the  falls,  which  comes  in  on  the  north  side,  to 
hunt  for  elk.  We  finished  the  burying  place,  so  that  we 
will  be  ready  to  start  as  soon  as  Captain  Clarke  returns. 
All  our  people  are  making  moccasons  to  go  through  t  he 
prairie. 

Thursday  20.  A  cloudy  morning:  four  hunters  went 
out  to  kill  some  fat  buffalo.  About  4  o'clock  one  of  them 
came  in  for  men  to  carry  the  meat  to  camp ;  as  they  had 
14  down  ready  to  butcher.  We  went  out  about  a  mile 
and  a  half,  and  brought  in  a  load,  leaving  three  men  to 


96      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

dress  the  rest.  Captain  Clarke  and  his  party  returned, 
having  found  a  tolerable  good  road  except  where  some 
draughts  crossed  it.  They  had  left  their  blankets  and 
provision  at  the  place  where  they  expect  we  will  again 
embark. 

Friday  21.  This  morning  was  also  fine,  but  there 
was  a  high  wind.  The  remainder  of  the  meat  was 
brought  in,  and  one  ot  the  men  killed  two  deer. 

Saturday  22.  All  hands,  except  two  and  the  interpre- 
ter and  his  wife,  set  out  through  the  prairie  with  one 
canoe  on  a  wagon  loaded  heavy  with  baggage.  We 
went  on  slowly  as  our  axletrees  were  weak;  and  about 
12  o'clock  one  of  them  broke;  when  we  had  to  halt  and 
put  in  a  new  one.  This  accident  happened  at  a  draught 
where  there  was  some  willow,  and  we  put  in  an  axletree 
of  that;  which  I  believe  is  the  best  this  country  affords 
for  the  purpose.  It  was  late  in  the  evening  before  we 
got  to  the  intended  place  of  embarkation  on  the  river. 

Sunday  23.  The  morning  was  cloudy.  When  I 
awoke  this  morning  I  found  a  material  difference  between 
the  river  and  country  here  and  below  the  falls.  Here 
the  river  is  wide  and  the  current  gentle.  There  are  three 
small  islands  at  this  place  and  some  timber  on  the  banks, 
but  not  much,  and  what  is  there  is  cotton- wood  and 
willow.  The  banks  are  very  low,  and  the  country  rising 
in  plains  a  considerable  distance  on  both  sides  of  the 
river;  and  far  off  mountains  covered  with  snow  on  both 
sides  and  ahead.  Two  of  the  men  and  myself  remained 
with  Captain  Lewis  here  to  assist  him  in  putting  together 
his  iron  boat,  the  rest  went  back  for  another  load.  The 
iron  boat-frame  is  to  be  covered  with  skins  and  requires 
a  quantity  of  thin  shaved  strips  of  wood  for  lining.  In 
the  forenoon  we  put  the  frame  together,  which  is  36 
feet  long,  4J  -wide,  and  two  feet  two  inches  deep.  In  the 
afternoon  Captain  Lewis  and  one  of  the  men  went  down 
to  Medicine  River,  which  is  about  two  miles  distant;  to 
see  whether  the  three  men  sent  there  to  hunt  had  procur- 
ed any  elk  skins.  In  the  evening  they  found  one  of  the 
hunters,  and  encamped  with  him  all  night. 

Monday  24.     In  the  morning  Captain  Lewis  came  up 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  97 

to  our  camp.  We  found  it  very  difficult  to  procure  stuff 
for  the  boat.  The  two  men  which  Captain  Lewis  had 
left  in  the  morning  came  to  our  camp  in  the  afternoon, 
but  had  seen  nothing  of  the  other  two  hunters.  In  the 
evening  there  was  a  very  heavy  shower  of  rain;  at  night 
the  weather  cleared  up,  and  the  men  arrived  with  two 
more  canoes.  The  two  hunters  which  Captain  Lewis 
could  not  find,  had  killed  some  buffalo  below  the  mouth 
of  the  Medicine  river,  where  one  remained,  and  the  other 
had  gone  across  to  the  camp  below  the  falls  again,  but 
had  found  no  elk. 

Tuesday  25.  A  cloudy  morning.  The  men  went 
back  for  more  canoes  and  baggage;  and  one  went  down 
to  the  hunter's  camp  below  Medicine  river  to  bring  him 
up  in  a  canoe.  Another  went  up  the  river  to  look  for 
elk.  When  he  had  gone  about  three  miles,  he  was 
attacked  by  three  brown  bears,  that  were  near  devouring 
him ;  but  he  made  his  escape  by  running  down  a  steep 
bank  into  the  water.  In  this  adventure  he  fell,  injured 
his  gun,  and  hurt  one  of  his  hands;  therefore  returned  to 
camp.  One  of  the  men  and  myself  went  over  to  an 
island  to  look  for  stuff  for  the  canoe,  but  could  find  noth- 
ing but  bark,  which  perhaps  will  answer.  We  killed  two 
elk  on  the  island.  There  is  in  the  bottoms  a  great  quan- 
tity of  spear-rnint  and  currant  bushes.  Also  multitudes 
of  blackbirds.  The  musketoes  are  very  troublesome, 
though  the  snow  is  on  the  mountains  so  near.  In  the 
evening  the  two  men  came  up  the  river  with  a  quantity  of 
good  meat  and  100  pounds  of  tallow. 

Wednesday  26.  A  fine  morning.  Two  hunters  went 
up  the  river,  and  myself  and  another  went  over  the  river 
to  collect  bark ;  where  a  great  gang  of  buffalo  came  near 
us,  and  we  killed  seven  of  them.  In  the  evening  the 
men  returned  over  the  plains  with  two  more  canoes  and 
baggage.  One  man  fell  very  sick  and  Captain  Lewis  had 
to  bleed  him  with  a  penknife,  having  no  other  instrument 
at  this  camp.  Captain  Clarke  measured  the  length  of 
this  portage  accurately  and  found  it  to  be  18  miles.  He 
also  measured  the  heighth  of  the  falls,  and  found  them  in 
a  distance  of  17  miles,  362  feet  nine  inches.  The  first 
7 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  99 

great  pitch  98  feet,  the  second  19  feet,  the  third  47  feet 
eight  inches,  the  fourth  26  feet,  and  a  number  of  small 
pitches,  amounting  altogether  to  362  feet  nine  inches. 

Thursday  27.  A  fine  day.  The  men  went  back  for 
the  remaining  canoe  and  baggage.  The  sick  man  has 
become  better.  This  morning  some  elk  came  close  to 
camp  and  we  killed  two  of  them.  In  the  afternoon  a 
dreadful  hail  storm  came  on,  which  lasted  half  an  hour. 
Some  of  the  lumps  of  ice  that  fell  weighed  three  ounces, 
and  measured  seven  inches  in  circumference.  The 
ground  was  covered  with  them,  as  white  as  snow.  It 
kept  cloudy  during  the  evening  and  some  rain  fell.  At 
night  ths  two  hunters  that  went  up  the  river  returned. 
They  had  killed  while  out  nine  elk  and  three  bears. 

Friday  28.  A  fine  morning.  There  are  but  six  per- 
sons now  at  this  camp,  but  all  busy  about  the  boat;  some 
shaving  skins,  soms  sewing  them  together,  and  some  pre- 
paring the  wood  part. 

The  following,  as  related  by  a  traveller,  is  a  striking,  but  melan- 
choly picture  of  cruelty  towards  the  brute  creation,  mingling  itself 
in  what  are  called  national  sports.  In  perusing  accounts  such  as 
these,  we  cannot  but  reflect  with  satisfaction,  that,  in  this  country, 
all  public  exhibitions  in  which  the  inferior  animals  are  made  to 
bleed  for  the  mere  amusement  of  man,  may  be  said  to  be  entirely 
abandoned,  as  unmanly  and  unbecoming  a  Christian  people. 

"We  again  repaired  to  the  palace  at  an  early  hour;  the  Rajah  was 
ready  to  receive  us,  and  after  a  slight  refreshment,  we  took  our  sta- 
tion in  the  gallery  to  witness  the  second  day's  sports.  We  were 
prepared  for  an  unusual  sight.  A  lion  was  to  be  turned  into  the 
arena  with  an  African  buffalo,  purchased  by  his  Highness  some 
months  before,  and  which  still  remained  uncommonly  wild  and 
fierce. 

We  had  not  long  taken  our  station  in  the  gallery,  before  the 
buffalo  was  driven  from  its  stall.  The  moment  it  entered  the 
enclosure  it  began  to  bellow  and  plunge  violently,  throwing  the  dirt 
from  its  heels  into  the  air  at  least  a  dozen  feet  high.  It  was  a 
bony  animal,  as  large  as  a  Durham  ox,  though  not,  perhaps,  quite 
so  tall,  its  legs  being  short  in  proportion  to  its  size.  It  had  an  im- 
mense head,  with  long  horns,  that  curbed  like  those  of  a  ram,  whilst 
its  large  projecting  eye  and  dilated  nostril  gave  it  an  expression  of 
extreme  fierceness.  There  was  scarcely  any  hair  upon  its  body, 
except  on  the  neck  and  tail:  at  the  extremity  of  the  latter  appeared 
a  large  tuft,  very  thick  and  coarse.  It  was  altogether  a  very  noble 
creature,  full  of  strength  and  fury. 

After  a  few  moments  the  bars  of  the  lion's  cage  were  raised,  and 


100  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

Saturday  29.  We  had  a  very  hard  gust  of  wind  and 
rain  in  the  morning;  but  a  fine  forenoon  after  it.  Cap- 
tain Lewis  and  a  hunter  went  down  the  river  about  seven 
miles,  to  see  a  very  large  spring  which  rises  out  of  the 
bank  of  the  Missouri  on  the  south  side.  In  the  after- 
noon there  was  another  heavy  shower  of  rain,  and  after 
it  a  fine  evening.  Captain  Lewis  came  to  camp,  but 
drenched  with  rain. 

Sunday  30.  A  fine  morning,  and  heavy  dew,  which  is 
very  rare  in  this  country.  The  men  with  the  canoe  and 
baggage  did  not  return,  as  we  expected. 

Monday,  July  1,  1805.  A  fine  day.  In  the  after- 
noon, Captain  Clarke  and  the  men  came  with  all  the 
baggage  except  some  they  had  left  six  miles  back.  The 
hail  that  fell  on  the  27th  hurt  some  of  the  men  very  badly. 
Captain  Clarke,  the  interpreter,  and  the  squaw  and  child, 
had  gone  to  see  the  spring  at  the  falls ;  and  when  the 
storm  began,  they  took  shelter  under  a  bank  at  the  mouth 
of  a  run;  but  in  five  minutes  there  was  seven  feet  water 

the  kingly  animal  bounded  forward.  It  was  one  of  the  finest  I  had 
ever  seen.  A  Hindoo  sage  has  said  that  "the  elephant,  the  lion,  and 
the  wise  man,  seek  their  safety  in  flight;  but  the  crow,  the  deer, 
and  the  coward,  die  in  their  nest."  In  the  present  instance,  how- 
ever, the  lion  was  fully  vindicated  from  the  obloquy  of  such  vul- 
gar wisdom,  as  will  be  presently  seen. 

It  stalked  majestically  forward,  but,  seeing  the  buffalo,  dropped 
upon  its  belly,  swept  the  ground  with  its  tail,  and  then  uttering  a 
short  growl,  made  two  or  three  leaps,  and  sprang  upon  its  adversa- 
ry's neck  without  further  preliminaries.  The  sudden  shock  brought 
the  buffalo  upon  its  knees;  but  immediately  recovering,  the  latter 
threw  back  its  head  with  a  violence  that  disloged  the  lion,  casting  it 
with  prodigious  force  against  the  strong  wooden  palings  of  the 
enclosure,  at  the  same  time  striking  one  of  its  horns  into  the  flank 
of  its  assailant  and  opening  a  hideous  gash.  The  lion  was  for  a 
moment  stunned;  nevertheless,  before  its  enemy  had  time  to  take 
advantage  of  its  condition,  it  was  on  its  legs,  and  had  again  sprung 
upon  the  buffaloes  neck,  which  it  lacerated  dreadfully.  There  was 
now  a  deadly  struggle;  but  the  latter,  repeating  the  same  action 
which  had  before  disengaged  it  from  the  gripe  of  its  tawny  foe, 
threw  the  lion  against  the  palings  with  still  greater  violence  than 
before,  and  there  gored  it  with  an  animation  that  soon  entirely 
disabled  the  noble  beast  from  renewing  the  contest.  The  buffalo 
was  by  this  time  so  exhausted  that  it  fell  by  the  side  of  its  prostrate 
enemy.  After  some  exertion  the  keepers  got  it  upon  its  legs  and 
led  it  from  the  scene  of  combat.  The  lion  was  with  difficulty  drag- 
ged into  its  cage,  but  in  a  few  days  appeared  little  the  worse.1' 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  101 

in  the  run;  and  they  were  very  near  being  swept  away. 
They  lost  a  gun,  and  umbrella  and  a  Surveyor's  com- 
pass, and  barely  escaped  with  their  lives. 

Tuesday  2.  A  fine  morning.  The  Surveyor's  com- 
pass which  had  been  lost  was  found  to  day.  The  men 
went  out  for  the  baggage  which  had  been  left  on  the  way, 
and  got  in  with  the  whole  of  it,  and  canoes  safe. 

In  the  evening,  the  most  of  the  corps  crossed  over  to  an 
island,  to  attack  and  rout  its  monarch,  a  large  brown  bear, 
that  held  possession  and  seemed  to  defy  all  that  would 
attempt  to  besiege  him  there.  Our  troops,  however, 
stormed  the  place,  gave  no  quarter,  and  its  commander 
fell.  Our  army  returned  the  same  evening  to  camp  with- 
out having  suffered  any  loss  on  their  side. 

Wednesday  3.  A  fine  morning.  I  was  so  engaged 
with  the  boat,  that  I  had  not  visited  the  falls.  I  therefore 
set  out  with  one  of  the  men  to-day  for  that  purpose.  I 
found  the  2nd  pitch  the  most  beautiful,  though  not  the 
highest.  About  a  mile  below  the  upper  pitch,  the  largest 
and  most  beautiful  spring  rises  out  of  the  bank  of  the 
Missouri  on  the  south  side  that  I  ever  beheld.  We  had 
a  light  shower  of  rain.  During  this  excursion  I  saw 
more  buifalo  than  I  had  seen  any  day  previous:  we  killed 
seven  of  them  before  we  returned  to  camp.  We  also 
saw  25  wolves  in  one  gang  or  pack. 

Thursday  4.  A  fine  day.  A  part  of  the  men  were 
busily  engaged  at  the  boat,  and  others  in  dressing  skins 
for  clothing,  until  about  4  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  when 
we  drank  the  last  of  our  spirits  in  celebrating  the  day, 
and  amused  ourselves  with  dancing  till  9  o'clock  at  night, 
when  a  shower  of  rain  fell  and  we  retired  to  rest. 

Friday  5.  A  fine  morning.  All  the  men,  except  five 
of  us  who  where  engaged  at  the  boat,  went  to  hunt ;  at 
night  they  came  in  and  had  killed  several  buffalo  and 
some  cabres  or  antelopes. 

Saturday  6.  As  many  of  the  hands  as  could  find 
room  to  work  were  engaged  at  the  boat;  and  four  went 
down  the  river  to  hunt  buifalo,  in  order  to  get  their  skins 
to  cover  our  craft:  This  was  a  beautiful  and  pleasant 
day. 


102      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

Sunday  7.  The  morning  was  fine.  The  hunters  had 
remained  out  all  night.  In  the  evening  some  few  drops 
of  rain  fell ;  and  the  hunters  came  in ;  but  had  not  had 
good  luck,  the  buffalo  being  mostly  out  in  the  plains. 
At  night  we  got  our  boat  finished,  all  but  greasing;  and 
she  was  laid  out  to  dry. 

Monday  8.  Again  we  had  a  fine  morning,  and  a  num- 
ber of  the  party  went  out  to  hunt.  In  the  evening  they 
all  came  in,  and  had  killed  but  three  buffalo,  a  deer  and  a 
cabre ;  and  caught  a  small  animal  almost  like  a  cat,  of  a 
light  color.  Yesterday  one  of  the  men  caught  a  small 
squirrel,  like  a  ground  squirrel,  but  of  a  more  dun  color, 
and  more  spotted.  We  finished  the  boat  this  evening, 
having  covered  her  with  tallow  and  coal-dust.  We  cal- 
led her  the  Experiment,  and  expect  she  will  answer  our 
purpose. 

Tuesday  9.  A  fine  morning,  and  heavy  dew.  In  the 
forenoon  we  loaded  our  canoes,  and  put  the  Experiment 
into  the  water.  She  rides  verylight  but  leaks  some.  In 
the  afternoon  a  storm  of  wind,  with  some  rain  came  on 
from  the  north  west,  and  we  had  again  to  unload  some  of 
our  canoes,  the  waves  ran  so  high.  After  the  storm  we 
had  a  fine  evening.  The  tallow  and  coal  were  found  not 
to  answer  the  purpose;  for  as  soon  as  dry,  it  cracked  and 
scaled  off,  and  the  water  came  through  the  skins.  There- 
fore for  want  of  tar  or  pitch  we  had,  after  all  our  labor, 
to  haul  our  new  boat  on  shore,  and  leave  it  at  this  place. 

Wednesday  10.  A  fine  cool  morning.  Captain  Lewis 
and  Captain  Clarke  thought  it  would  be  best  to  make  two 
canoes  more,  if  we  could  get  timber  large  enough.  So 
Captain  Clarke  and  10  men  set  out  in  search  of  it.  Some 
of  the  hunters  having  seen  large  timber  about  20  miles 
up  the  river,  the  canoes  were  sent  on  loaded,  and  a  party 
went  by  land;  the  distance  that  way  being  only  six  or 
seven  miles.  If  timber  is  found,  the  canoes  are  to  unload 
and  return  for  the  remainder  of  the  baggage.  Captain 
Lewis  myself  and  nine  men  staid  to  take  the  boat  asun- 
der and  bury  her;  and  deposited  her  safely  under  ground. 
Captain  Lewis  had  an  observation  at  12  which  gave  47° 
3.  10.  N.  Latitude.  In  the  afternoon  I  went  out  to  see  if 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  103 

there  were  any  buffalo  noar,  but  found  none:  they  appear 
to  have  all  left  the  river.  On  the  bank  of  a  run  where 
there  are  high  rocks,  I  found  a  groat  quantity  of  sweet 
gooseberries,  all  ripe. 

Thursday  11.  We  continued  here  waiting  for  ths 
return  of  the  canoes  until  2  o'clock;  then  four  of  us  went 
out  and  killed  a  buffalo  and  brought  in  part  of  the  meat. 
The  canoes  did  not  come  back  this  evening. 

Friday  12.  A  fine  morning.  Myself  and  three  of 
the  men  went  up  the  river  to  assist  Captain  Clarke's  par- 
ty. In  our  way  we  passed  a  small  bottom  on  the  north 
side  of  the  river,  in  which  there  is  an  old  Indian  lodge 
216  feet  in  circumference.  Here  we  saw  some  wild 
pigeons  and  turtle  doves.  Having  gone  about  seven 
miles  we  found  Captain  Clarke's  party,  who  had  cut  down 
two  trees  and  taken  off  logs  for  canoes,  one  25  and  the 
other  30  feet  in  length.  The  canoes  had  returned  to  our 
old  camp,  where  Captain  Lewis  was. 

Saturday  13.  A  fine  day,  but  high  wind.  Captain 
Lewis  carne  up  here,  accompanied  by  the  squaw.  He 
informed  us  that  the  canoes  had  started  with  all  the  bag- 
gage from  the  former  encampment,  which  we  had  called 
White-bear  camp.  The  musketoss  are  very  trouble- 
some. This  evening  the  canoes  were  finished  except  the 
putting  in  some  knees. 

Sunday  14.  A  fine  morning.  About  11  o'clock  the 
men  came  up  with  the  canoes  and  baggage.  The  dis- 
tance by  water  was  found  to  be  22  miles,  and  by  land 
only  six  miles.  In  the  afternoon  some  rain  fell  but  we 
continued  to  work  at  the  canoes,  and  finished  them  ready 
for  loading. 


CHAPTER   X. 

Monday  15.  After  a  night  of  heavy  rain,  we  had  a 
pleasant  morning,  and  loaded  the  canoes.  About  11 
o'clock  we  set  out  from  this  place,  which  we  had  called 
Canoe  camp;  had  fine  still  water,  and  passed  some  hand- 
some small  bottoms  on  both  sides  of  the  river.  We  also 
passed  a  handsome  river  on  the  south  side,  about  100 


104  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

yards  wide,  which  seemed  to  have  its  source  in  a  large 
mountain  on  the  same  side.  The  snow  appears  to  have 
melted  from  all  the  mountains  in  view.  The  country 
around  is  composed  of  dry  plains,  with  short  grass.  We 
passed  two  small  creeks,  one  on  each  side  of  the  river; 
made  26  miles,  and  encamped  on  the  North  side. 

Tuesday  16.  We  embarked  early  and  had  a  fine 
morning.  Captain  Lewis  and  two  men  went  on  ahead 
to  the  mountain  to  take  an  observation.  We  passed  the 
channel  of  a  river  on  the  south  side  without  water,  about 
60  yards  wide.  We  had  fine  water  until  about  1  o'clock, 
when  we  came  within  about  two  miles  of  the  mountain; 
when  the  water  became  more  rapid;  but  the  current  not 
so  swift  as  below  the  falls.  At  this  place  there  are  a 
number  of  small  islands.  One  of  our  men  has  been 
taken  unwell.  In  the  afternoon  we  continued  our  voyage, 
and  the  water  continued  very  rapid.  We  got  about  three 
miles  into  the  first  range  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and 
encamped  on  the  north  side  of  the  river  on  a  sand  beach. 
There  is  some  fine  timber  on  the  mountains,  but  not 
much  in  this  part.  There  are  great  hills  of  solid  rock 
of  a  dark  color.  This  day  we  went  about  20  miles. 

Wednesday  17.  We  set  out  early,  and  the  morning 
was  fine  and  pleasant.  At  8  o'clock  we  came  to  Captain 
Lewis's  camp,  at  a  very  rapid  place  of  the  river,  and 
took  breakfast.  We  had  here  to  join  the  crews  of  two 
canoes  together,  to  go  up  the  rapids  which  were  about 
half  a  mile  long.  The  Missouri  at  this  place  is  very 
narrow.  At  the  head  of  these  rapids  a  fine  spring  comes 
in  on  the  south  side,  which  rises  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
from  the  river;  and  has  a  good  deal  of  small  cotton-wood 
and  willows  on  its  banks.  There  is  also  another  spring 
below  the  rapids,  but  it  sinks  before  it  reaches  the  river. 
We  proceeded  on  through  the  mountains,  a  very  desert 
looking  part  of  the  country.  Some  of  the  knobs  or 
peaks  of  these  mountains  are  700  (perhaps  some  nearly 
1200)  feet  high,  all  rock;  and  though  they  are  almost  per- 
pendicular, we  saw  mountain  sheep  on  the  very  tops  of 
them.  We  saw  few  other  animals  to  day.  The  general 
breadth  of  the  river  is  100  yards.  We  went  11  miles 
and  encamped  in  a  small  bottom  on  the  North  side.. 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  105 

Thursday  18.  The  morning  was  fair  and  we  proceed- 
ded  on  early ;  passed  Clear-water  river  on  the  north  side 
about  50  yards  wide,  rapid  and  shallow.  There  are  a 
great  quantity  of  currants  all  along  the  river  on  both  sides 
in  the  small  bottoms.  At  breakfast  time  Captain  Clarke 
with  three  men  went  on  ahead.  About  eleven  we  got 
through  the  higher  part  of  the  mountains,  and  to  where 
there  is  less  timber  and  the  rocks  not  so  large.  In  the 
forenoon  we  passed  two  small  creeks  on  the  north  side, 
and  in  the  afternoon  a  small  river  on  the  same  side ;  above 
the  mouth  of  which  we  got  a  deer  skin,  that  Captain 
Clarke's  man  had  hung,  up.  The  country  continues 
much  the  same.  We  made  20  miles  this  day. 

Friday  19.  A  fine  morning.  At  nine  we  came  to 
high  parts  of  the  mountains,  which  had  a  good  deal  of 
pine,  spruce  and  cedar  on  them,  and  where  there  were  not 
so  many  rocks ;  but  no  timber  in  the  bottoms  except  some 
small  willows.  About  1  o'clock  we  had  thunder,  light- 
ning and  rain,  which  continued  an  hour  or  two,  and  then 
the  weather  became  clear.  This  afternoon  we  passed 
parts  of  the  mountains,  that  were  very  high,  and  mostly 
of  solid  rock  of  a  light  color.  The  mountains  are  so 
close  on  the  river  on  both  sides  that  we  could  scarcely  find 
room  to  encamp.  We  went  20  miles  and  encamped  on 
the  South  side.  After  night  some  rain  fell. 

Saturday  20.     We  had  a  fine  morning,  and  embarked 
early.     About  eight  we  got  out  of  the  high  part  of    the 
mountains,  and  came  to  where  they  are  lower  and  not  so 
rocky;  and  where  there  are  the  finest  currants  I  ever  saw 
of  different  kinds,  red,  yellow  and  black;  the  black  are 
the  most  palatable.     There  is  also  a  good  portion  of  tim- 
ber on  the  mountains  all  along  this  part.     We  killed  an 
elk  in  our  way,  and  found  the  skin  of  one  which  Captain 
Clarke  had  left  on  the  bank  with  a  note,  informing  us  he 
would  pass  the  mountain  he  was  then  on,  and  wait  for  the 
canoes.     We  passed  a  small  creek  on  the  south  side,  and 
about  two  o'clock  came  to  a  level  plain  on  fche  north  side, 
from  which  we  saw  a  strong  smoke  rising,  and  supposed 
it  was  from  a  fire  made  by  Captain  Clarke.     The  river  is 
very  crooked  in  general,  and  here  is  a  great  bend  to  the 


106  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

southeast;  and  in  the  afternoon  it  turned  so  far  that  our 
course  was  north  of  east.  We  proceeded  on  through  a 
valley  between  two  mountains,  one  of  which  we  passed, 
and  the  other  is  in  view  ahead.  We  went  15  miles  and 
encamped  at  the  mouth  of  a  small  run  on  the  South  side. 

Sunday  21.  We  set  out  at  sun  rise  and  had  a  pleasant 
morning;  passed  some  middling  high  hills  on  the  river, 
and  rocks  of  a  red  purple  color;  also  two  small  creeks, 
one  on  each  side.  There  are  a  few  pines  on  the  hills. 
At  noon  our  course  began  to  change  more  to  the  south- 
west again;  the  wind  blew  very  hard  and  some  drops  of 
rain  fell.  In  the  afternoon  we  passed  through  a  ridge, 
where  the  river  is  very  narrow ;  and  close  above  a  large 
cluster  of  small  islands,  where  we  had  some  difficulty  to 
get  along,  the  water  being  so  much  separated.  We  went 
15  miles  and  a  half,  and  encamped  on  the  south  side,  on 
a  beautiful  prairie  bottom.  One  of  our  hunters  killed  a 
fine  deer. 

Monday  22.  We  embarked-  early,  the  weather  being 
pleasant;  passed  some  fine  springs  on  the  southern  shore, 
and  a  large  island  near  the  northern.  On  the  south  side 
the  country  is  level  to  a  good  distance,  but  on  the  north 
the  hills  come  close  to  the  river.  At  breakfast  our  squaw 
informed  us  she  had  been  at  this  place  before  when  small. 
Here  we  got  a  quantity  of  wild  onions.  At  half  past 
nine,  we  proceeded  on  again;  passed  a  large  island  at 
noon;  and  in  the  afternoon,  more  islands:  and  came  to  a 
place  where  Captain  Clarke  and  his  party  were  encamp- 
ed. They  told  us  they  had  seen  the  same  smoke,  which 
we  had  discovered  a  few  days  ago,  and  found  it  had  been 
made  by  the  natives,  who  they  supposed  had  seen  some 
of  us,' and  had  fled,  taking  us  for  enemies.  We  went  17 
miles  and  a  half  and  encamped  on  an  island;  where  we 
found  the  musketoes  very  bad.  We  saw  to  day  several 
banks  of  snow  on  a  mountain  west  of  us. 

Tuesday  23.  A  cloudy  morning.  We  embarked  early, 
and  at  the  same  time  Captain  Clarke  and  four  men  went 
on  again  to  endeavor  to  meet  with  some  of  the  natives. 
We  had  rapid  water,  and  passed  a  grate  number  of 
islands.  Captain  Clarke  and  his  men  killed  four  deer 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  107 

and  a  cabre,  and  left  the  skins  and  meat  on  the  shore, 
where  we  could  easily  find  them.  The  course  of  the 
river  all  day  was  nearly  from  the  south,  through  a  valley 
of  10  or  12  miles  wide.  The  mountains  are  not  so  high 
nor  so  rocky,  as  those  we  passed.  Large  timber  is  not 
plenty,  but  there  are  a  great  quantity  of  small  shrubs  and 
willows.  We  passed  a  small  river  on  the  south  side,  and 
some  banks  of  very  white  clay.  We  encamped  on  an 
island,  having  made  24  miles. 

Wednesday  24.  The  morning  was  fine,  and  we  early 
prosecuted  our  voyage;  pacsed  a  bank  of  very  red  earth, 
which  our  squaw  told  us  the  natives  use  for  paint.  Deer 
are  plenty  among  the  bushes,  and  one  of  our  men  killed 
one  on  the  bank.  We  continued  through  the  valley  all 
day;  went  19  miles  and  encamped  on  the  North  side. 

Thursday  25.  We  embarked  and  passed  on  at  the 
usual  time,  in  a  fine  morning;  we  passed  a  beautiful 
plain  on  the  north  side,  and  at  2  o'clock  we  came  to  the 
entrance  of  another  chain  of  mountains;  where  we  took 
dinner  and  again  went  on.  Passing  through  this  chain  we 
found  some  difficult  rapids,  but  good  water  between  them. 
This  chain  of  mountains  are  not  so  high,  nor  so  rocky 
as  those  passed  before.  Six  very  fine  springs  rise  on  the 
southern  shore,  about  four  miles  above  the  entrance  of 
this  range.  We  went  16  miles  and  encamped  on  the 
North  side. 

Friday  26.  The  morning  was  fine  and  we  continued 
our  course  through  the  mountains.  There  are  some 
cedar  and  spruce  trees  on  the  shores,  but  very  little  of  any 
kind  on  the  mountains.  About  1 1  o'clock  we  got  through 
this  range*  into  a  valley:  about  two  came  to  a  large 
island  and  halted  on  it  for  dinner.  A  rattle-snake  came 
among  our  canoes  in  the  water,  of  a  kind  different  from 
any  1  had  seen.  It  was  about  two  feet  long,  of  a  light 
color,  with  small  spots  all  over.  One  of  our  hunters 
went  on  ahead  in  the  morning,  and  at  this  place  killed 
four  deer.  While  we  remained  here  it  became  cloudy 
and  some  rain  fell.  At  4  o'clock  we  proceeded  on 
through  the  valley;  passed  a  creek  on  the  south  side,  and 
having  made  18  miles  and  a  half,  encamped  on  the 
same  side,  where  a  small  mountain  comes  into  the  river. 


108  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

Saturday  27.  We  continued  our  voyage  early,  and 
had  a  pleasant  morning;  proceeded  on,  and  at  9  o'clock 
got  through  the  small  mountain.  At  the  entrance  of  the 
valley,  a  branch  of  the  Missouri  comes  in  on  the  south 
side  about  60  yards  wide;  the  current  rapid  but  not  very 
deep.  Here  we  took  breakfast,  and  having  proceeded  on 
a  mile,  came  to  another  branch  of  the  same  size.  There 
is  very  little  difference  in  the  size  of  the  three  branches. 
On  the  bank  of  the  north  branch  we  found  a  note  Captain 
Clarke  had  left  informing  us,  he  was  ahead  and  had  gone 
up  that  branch.  We  went  on  to  the  point,  and,  as  the 
men  were  much  fatigued,  encamped  in  order  to  rest  a  day 
or  two.  After  we  halted  here,  it  began  to  rain  and  con- 
tinued three  hours.  About  12  o'clock  Captain  Clarke 
and  his  men  came  to  our  encampment,  and  told  us  they 
had  been  up  both  branches  a  considerable  distance,  but 
could  discover  none  of  the  natives.  There  is  a  beautiful 
valley  at  these  forks;  and  a  good  deal  of  timber  on  the 
branches,  chiefly  cotton-wood.  "  Also  currants,  goose  and 
service  berries,  and  choak-cherries  on  the  banks.  The 
deer  are  plenty  too;  some  of  the  men  went  out  and  killed 
several  to-day.  Captain  Clarke  was  very  unwell  and 
had  been  so  all  last  night.  In  the  evening  the  weather 
became  clear  and  we  had  a  fine  night. 

Sunday  28.  As  this  was  a  fine  day,  the  men  were 
employed  in  airing  the  baggage,  dressing  skins  and  hunt- 
ing. Captain  Clarke  still  continued  unwell.  Our  squaw 
informed  us,  that  it  was  at  this  place  she  had  been  taken 
prisoner  by  the  Grossventers  four  or  five  years  ago.  From 
this  valley  we  can  discover  a  large  mountain  with  snow 
on  it,  towards  the  southwest;  and  expect  to  pass  by  the 
northwest  end  of  it.  Captain  Lewis  had  a  meridian  alti- 
tude here,  which  gave  45°  22.  34.  5.  north  latitude.  We 
also  remained  here  the  29th,  which  was  a  fine  day,  and 
the  men  chiefly  employed  in  the  same  way.  Captain 
Clarke  is  getting  better. 

Tuesday  30.  We  left  our  encampment  at  the  forks, 
and  proceeded  on  about  7  o'clock  A.  M.  up  the  North 
branch.  This  branch  is  about  60  yards  wide  and  six  feet 
deep,  with  a  rapid  current.  We  passed  a  number  of 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  109 

islands.  The  valley  continued  on  the  South  side  all  this 
day;  but  the  spur  of  a  mountain,  about  five  or  six  miles 
from  the  forks  came  in  close  on  the  North  side  with  verv 
high  cliffs  of  rocks.  We  encamped  where  it  terminated, 
having  made  13  miles  and  an  half. 

Wednesday  31.  We  set  out  early,  and  had  a  fine 
cool  morning  with  dew.  Last  night  Captain  Lewis  went 
on  ahead,  and  the  canoes  being  unable  to  get  on  to  him, 
he  was  obliged  to  encamp  out  alone  in  this  howling 
wilderness.  We  passed  a  small  creek  this  morning  on 
the  South  side,  which  empties  into  the  river,  through  two 
or  three  mouths,  on  account  of  its  being  much  dammed 
up  by  the  beaver,  which  are  very  plenty,  At  breakfast 
time  we  came  up  to  Captain  Lewis;  and  having  made  17 
miles  and  three  quarters,  encamped  on  an  island. 

Thursday,  August  1,  1805.  We  set  out  early  in  a 
fine  morning  and  proceeded  on  till  breakfast  time;  when 
Captain  Lewis,  myself  and  the  two  interpreters  went  on 
ahead  to  look  for  some  of  the  Snake  Indians.  Our 
course  lay  across  a  large  mountain  on  the  North  side, 
over  which  we  had  a  very  fatiguing  trip  of  about  1 1  miles. 
We  then  came  to  the  river  again,  and  found  it  ran  through 
a  handsome  valley  of  from  six  to  eight  miles  wide.  At 
the  entrance  of  this  valley,  which  is  covered  with  small 
bushes,  but  has  very  little  timber,  we  killed  two  elk  and 
left  the  meat  for  the  canoes  to  take  up,  as  the  men  stood 
much  in  need  of  it,  having  no  fresh  provisions  on  hand. 
We  crossed  a  small  creek  on  the  North  shore,  and  en- 
camped on  the  same  side. 

Friday  2.  The  morning  was  fine  and  we  went  on  at 
sunrise,  proceeded  four  or  five  miles  and  crossed  the  river. 
In  the  middle  of  the  day  it  was  very  warm  in  the  valley, 
and  at  night  very  cold;  so  much  so  that  two  blankets 
were  scarce  a  sufficient  covering.  On  each  side  of  the 
valley  there  is  a  high  range  of  mountains,  which  run 
nearly  parallel,  with  some  spots  of  snow  on  their  tops. 
We  killed  a  deer;  went  about  24  miles  and  encamped  on 
the  South  side. 

Saturday  3.  A  fine  cool  morning.  We  left  a  note 
for  Captain  Clarke,  continued  our  route  along  the  valley  j 


110      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

and  passed  several  fine  springs  that  issue  from  the  moun- 
tains. Currants  and  service  berries  are  in  abundance 
along  this  valley,  and  we  regaled  ourselves  with  some  of 
the  best  I  had  ever  seen.  We  went  about  22  miles  and 
encamped.  The  night  was  disagreeably  cold. 

Sunday  4.  At  sunrise  we  continued  our  march,  in  a 
fine  morning;  went  about  six  miles  when  we  came  to  a 
fork  of  the  river;  crossed  the  South  branch  and  from  a 
high  knob  discovered  that  the  river  had  forked  below  us, 
as  we  could  see  the  timber  on  the  North  branch  about  six 
or  seven  miles  from  the  South  and  West  branches.  We 
therefore  crossed  to  the  North  branch,  and  finding  it  not 
navigable  for  our  canoes,  went  down  to  the  confluence 
and  left  a  note  for  Captain  Clarke  directing  him  to  take 
the  left  hand  branch.  We  then  went  up  the  North  branch 
about  ten  miles  and  encamped  on  it. 

Monday  5.  This  morning  Captain  Lewis  thought  it 
would  be  best  for  me  and  one  of  the  interpreters  to  go 
over  to  the  West  branch,  and  remain  there,  until  he  and 
the  other  should  go  higher  up  the  North,  cross  over  in 
search  of  Indians  and  then  go  down  and  join  us.  At 
night  they  came  to  our  camp,  but  had  not  seen  any  of 
the  natives,  nor  any  fresh  signs. 

Tuesday  6.  We  started  early  to  go  down  to  the  point 
to  see  if  the  canoes  had  come  up  that  far,  and  came  upon 
the  North  branch  about  two  miles  above  it.  Here  we 
discovered  that  the  people  in  the  canoes  had  not  found 
the  note,  and  with  great  difficulty,  had  proceeded  five  or 
six  miles  up  the  North  branch.  ,  In  their  return  down, 
one  of  the  canoes  was  overturned ;  a  knapsack,  shot-pouch 
and  powder-horn  lost,  and  all  the  rest  of  the  loading  wet. 
We  got  down  to  the  forks  about  12  o'clock,  put  all  our 
baggage  out  to  dry,  and  encamped  for  the  night.  Some 
hunters  went  out  and  killed  three  deer. 

Wednesday  7.  We  remained  here  during  the  fore- 
noon, which  was  fair  and  clear,  and  where  Captain  Lewis 
took  a  meridian  altitude,  which  made  the  latitude  of  this 
place  45°  2  53  North.  At  3  o'clock  in  the  afternoon, 
we  were  ready  to  continue  our  voyage.  In  the  evening 
a  heavy  cloud  came  up,  and  we  had  hard  thunder  with 


PAS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  Ill 

; 

lightning  and  rain.  We  went  on  seven  miles  and  en- 
camped  on  the  North  side,  when  the  weather  cleared, 
and  wo  had  a  fine  night.  The  canoes  came  62  miles 
and  three  quarters  while  we  were  out. 

Thursday  8.  We  proceeded  on  early  and  had  a  plea- 
sant morning.  The  West  branch  which  we  went  up  is 
about  30  yards  wide,  and  the  South,  which  we  passed, 
about  15  yards.  Three  hunters  went  by  land  to-day, 
and  at  noon  had  killed  two  deer  and  a  goat  or  cabre. 
The  river  is  very  crooked  in  this  valley.  The  hunters 
again  went  out  in  the  afternoon  and  killed  two  more  deer. 
There  are  no  buffalo  in  this  part  of  the  country,  and 
other  game  is  not  plenty.  We  went  this  day  19  miles. 

We  found  out  the  reason  why  Captain  Clarke  did  not 
got  tho  note  left  at  the  point,  which  was,  that  a  beaver 
had  cut  down  and  dragged  off  the  pole,  on  which  I  had 
fixed  it. 

Friday  9.  We  set  out  at  sunrise,  and  had  a  fine  morn- 
ing with  some  dew ;  proceeded  on  till  9  o'clock  when  we 
halted  for  breakfast.  Here  one  of  the  hunters  came  to 
us  who  had  been  out  since  the  morning  the  canoes  went 
up  the  North  branch  by  mistake,  and  who  had  that  morn- 
ing preceded  them  by  land.  Here  also  Captain  Lewis 
and  throe  men  started  to  go  on  ahead;  and  at  ten  we 
proceeded  on  with  the  canoes.  The  river  is  narrow  and 
very  crooked,  and  the  valley  continues  about  the  same 
breadth.  There  is  some  timber  on  tho  mountain  on  the 
South  side,  and  white  earth  or  rocks  appearing  through 
tho  pinos.  At  noon  we  halted  for  dinner,  and  hauled  out 
one  of  the  canoos,  which  had  sprung  a  leak  and  caulked 
her. 

This  morning  our  commanding  officers  thought  proper 
that  the  Missouri  should  lose  its  name  at  the  confluence 
of  the  three  branches  we  had  left  on  the  30th  ultimo. 
The  North  branch,  which  we  went  up,  they  called  JEF- 
FERSON; the  West  or  middle  branch,  MADISON;  the  South 
branch,  about  two  miles  up  which  a  beautiful  spring 
comes  in,  GALLATIN  !  and  a  small  river  above  the  forks 
they  called  PHILOSOPHY.  Of  the  three  branches  we  had 
just  left,  they  called  the  North,  Wisdom,  the  South,  Phi- 


112      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

lanthrophy,  and  the  West  or  middle  fork,  which  we  con- 
tinued our  voyage  along,  retained  the  name  of  JEFFERSON. 
We  went  14  miles  and  encamped  on  the  South  side. 
Our  two  hunters  killed  but  one  goat. 


CHAPTER  XL 

Saturday  10.  We  set  out  early  in  a  fine  morning,  and 
proceeded  on  through  the  valley,  until  breakfast  time, 
when  we  came  to  a  place  where  the  river  passes  through 
a  mountain.  This  narrow  passage  is  not  more  than  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  in  length.  At  the  upper  end  another 
valley  commences,  but  not  so  wide  as  the  one  below. 
There  is  no  timber  in  the  lower  end  of  this  valley;  and 
the  river  very  crooked,  narrow,  and  in  some  places  so 
shallow,  that  we  were  obliged  to  get  into  the  wrater  and 
drag  the  canoes  along.  At  1  o'clock  we  halted  to  dine, 
when  a  shower  of  rain  came  on  with  thunder  and  light- 
ning, and  continued  an  hour,  during  which  some  hail  fell. 
Two  hunters  were  out  to-day  and  killed  but  one  deer. 
We  came  13  miles  and  encamped  on  the  North  side. 
Here  the  valley  begins  to  be  more  extensive. 

Sunday  11.  This  morning  was  cloudy  and  we  did 
not  set  out  until  after  breakfast.  Three  hunters  were 
sent  out  and  we  proceeded  on  about  three  miles,  when  we 
came  to  a  large  island,  which  is  3000  miles  from  the  river 
Du  Bois  at  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri.  We  therefore 
called  it  3000  mile  Island.  We  took  up  the  South  side 
of  it,  arid  had  difficulty  in  passing,  the  water  being  shallow. 
About  two,  some  rain  fell.  Our  hunters  killed  three  deer 
and  a  goat.  We  went  14  miles  and  encamped  on  the 
North  side. 

Monday  12.  We  proceeded  on  at  the  usual  time,  and 
three  hunters  were  again  sent  out.  A  few  drops  of  rain 
fell  to-day.  Our  hunters  killed  four  deer;  and  after 
making  12  miles  we  encamped  on  the  North  side. 

Tuesday  13.  A  cloudy  morning.  We  set  out  early, 
through  rapid  water;  the  river  being  crooked  and  narrow, 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  113 

and  passed  a  small  creek  on  the  South  side.  The  weather 
was  cold  during  the  whole  of  this  day.  We  went  16 
miles  and  encamped  in  a  beautiful  plain  on  the  South 
side. 

Wednesday  14.  The  morning  was  clear  and  cold. 
We  embarked  after  breakfast;  passed  a  small  creek  on 
the  North  side  and  a  beautiful  valley  on  the  same  side. 
Timber  is  very  scarce,  and  only  some  few  scattering 
trees  along  the  river.  Our  hunters  came  in  at  noon,  who 
had  been  out  all  day  yesterday:  they  had  killed  five  deer 
and  a  goat.  There  are  a  few  deer  and  goats  in  this  part 
of  the  country;  and  otter  and  beaver  in  plenty  along  the 
river,  but  no  other  kind  of  game  that  we  could  discover. 
There  are  some  fish  in  the  river  and  trout  of  a  large  size, 
and  of  the  black  kind.  We  went  15  miles  and  encamped 
on  the  South  side  where  we  had  great  difficulty  in  pro- 
curing a  sufficient  quantity  of  wood  to  cook  with. 

Thursday  15.  We  had  a  fine  morning  and  proceeded 
on  about  8  o'clock.  Having  gone  two  miles,  we  came 
to  the  entrance  of  a  mountain,  where  Captain  Lewis  and 
his  party  on  the  second  day  after  their  departure  had 
taken  dinner;  and  had  left  four  deer  skins.  At  the  en- 
trance of  the  mountain  there  are  two  high  pillars  of 
rocks,  resembling  towers  on  each  side  of  the  river.  The 
mountains  are  not  very  high  and  do  not  approach  so 
near  the  river  as  some  we  have  passed;  they  are  about 
a  quarter  of  ^a  mile  distant,  and  the  river  meanders  along 
between  them  through  the  bushes  and  is  not  more  than 
20  yards  wide,  and  about  a  foot  and  a  half  deep.  The 
water  is  very  cold,  and  severe  and  disagreeable  to  the 
men,  who  are  frequently  obliged  to  wade  and  drag  the 
canoes.  We  went  15  miles  and  encamped  on  the  South 
side. 

Friday  16.  We  did  not  set  out  till  after  breakfast,  and 
while  here  one  of  the  men  went  out  and  killed  a  fine 
buck.  We  proceeded  through  rapid  water;  the  river  is 
very  narrow,  crooked  and  shallow.  This  morning  we 
passed  a  place  where  the  hills  come  close  to  the  river  for 
a  short  distance,  and  then  open  on  each  side  of  a  small 
valley,  which,  on  account  of  the  great  quantity  of  service 
8 


114  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 


berries  in  it,  we  called  Service-berry  valley.  We  passed 
over  a  rapid  of  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  and  encamped 
on  the  South  side,  having  come  15  miles. 

Saturday  17.  A  fine  morning.  We  proceeded  on 
about  two  miles,  and  discovered  a  number  of  the  natives, 
of  the  Snake  nation,  coming  along  the  bank  on  the  South 
side.  Captain  Lewis  had  been  as  far  as  the  waters  of  the 
Columbia  river  and  met  them  there.  We  continued  on 
about  two  miles  further  to  a  place  where  the  river  forks, 
and  there  halted  and  encamped,  after  much  fatigue  and 
difficulty.  The  water  is  so  shallow  that  we  had  to  drag 
the  canoes,  one  at  a  time,  almost  all  the  way.  The  dis- 
tance across  from  this  place  to  the  waters  of  the  Colum- 
bia river  is  about  40  miles,  and  the  road  or  way  said  to  be 
good.  There  were  about  20  of  the  natives  came  over 
with  Captain  Lewis,  and  had  the  same  number  of  horses. 
Here  we  unloaded  the  canoes,  and  had  a  talk  with  the 
Indians;  and  agreed  with  them  that  they  should  lend  us 
some  of  their  horses  to  carry -our  baggage  to  the  Colum- 
bia river. 

Sunday  18.  A  fine  morning.  We  bought  three  hor- 
ses of  the  Indians.  Captain  Clarke  and  1 1  more,  with 
our  interpreter  and  his  wife,  and  all  the  Indians  set  out 
at  1 1  o'clock  to  go  over  to  the  Columbia.  The  Indians 
went  for  horses  to  carry  our  baggage,  and  we  to  search 
for  timber  to  make  canoes  for  descending  the  Columbia. 
We  proceeded  up  the  north  branch  which  -is  the  largest 
and  longest  branch  of  Jeiferson  river,  through  a  hand- 
some valley  about  five  miles  wide.  In  this  we  found  a 
number  of  springs  and  small  branches,  but  no  timber. 
There  is  plenty  of  grass  and  clover,  and  also  some  flax 
all  along  it.  The  Indians  all  except  five  went  on  ahead. 
We  traveled  15  miles  and  encamped  close  on  the  branch 
which  is  about  five  yards  wide.  Here  we  killed  two  small 
deer.  The  country  all  around  is  very  mountainous,  with 
some  few  pine  trees  on  the  mountains.  At  3  o'clock 
this  afternoon  there  was  a  violent  gust  of  wind,  and 
some  rain  fell.  In  about  an  hour  the  weather  became 
clear,  and  very  cold,  and  continued  cold  all  night. 

Monday  19.     A  fine  morning,  but  cold.  We  proceeded 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  115 

on  at  8  o'clock  along  the  valley  for  six  miles,  when  the 
hills  came  more  close  on  the  branch,  which  here  divides 
into  three  parts  or  other  small  branches,  and  two  miles 
further  the  principal  branch  again  forks,  where  the  moun- 
tains commence  with  a  thick  grove  of  small  pines  on  our 
left,  and  large  rocks  on  our  right.  At  1  o'clock  we 
dined  at  the  head  spring  of  the  Missouri  and  Jefferson 
Rivers,  about  25  miles  from  the  place,  where  we  had  left 
the  canoes,  and  from  which  the  course  is  nearly  west. 
About  five  miles  South  of  us  we  saw  snow  on  the  top  of 
a  mountain,  and  in  the  morning  there  was  a  severe  white 
frost:  but  the  sun  shines  very  warm  where  we  now  are. 
At  3  o'clock,  we  proceeded  on,  and  at  the  foot  of  the 
dividing  ridge,  we  met  two  Indians  coming  to  meet  us, 
and  who  appeared  very  glad  to  see  us.  The  people  of 
this  nation  instead  of  shaking  hands  as  a  token  of  friend- 
ship, put  their  arms  round  the  neck  of  the  person  they 
salute.  It  is  not  more  than  a  mile  from  the  head  spring 
of  the  Missouri  to  the  head  of  the  branches  of  the  Colum- 
bia. We  proceeded  on  through  the  mountain;  passed 
some  fine  springs,  and  encamped  about  36  miles  from 
our  camp,  where  the  canoes  are.  Here  we  were  met  by 
a  number  of  the  natives. 

Tuesday  20.  A  fine  cool  frosty  morning.  We  set 
out  early  and  traveled  about  four  miles,  to  a  village  of 
the  Indians  on  the  bank  of  a  branch  of  the  Columbia 
river,  about  ten  yards  wide  and  very  rapid.  At  this  place 
there  are  about  25  lodges  made  of  willow  bushes.  They 
are  the  poorest  and  most  miserable  nation  I  ever  beheld ; 
having  scarcely  any  thing  to  subsist  on,  except  berries 
and  a  few  fish,  which  they  contrive  by  some  means,  to 
take.  They  have  a  great  many  fine  horses,  and  nothing 
more;  and  on  account  of  these  they  are  much  harassed 
by  other  nations.  They  move  about  in  any  direction 
where  the  berries  are  most  plenty.  We  had  a  long  talk 
with  them,  and  they  gave  us  very  unfavorable  accounts 
with  respect  to  the  rivers.  From  which  we  understood 
that  they  were  not  navigable  down,  and  expect  to  perform 
the  route  by  land.  Here  we  procured  a  guide,  and  left 
our  interpreters  to  go  on  with  the  natives,  and  assist  Capt. 
Lewis  and  his  party  to  bring  on  the  baggage. 


116  JOURNAL  OF.  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

Captain  Clarke  and  our  party  proceeded  down  the  river 
with  our  guide,  through  a  valley  about  four  miles  wide, 
of  a  rich  soil,  but  almost  without  timber.  There  are 
high  mountains  on  both  sides,  with  some  pine  trees  on 
them.  We  went  about  eight  miles  and  encamped  by  a 
line  spring.  One  of  our  men  remained  behind  at  the 
village  to  buy  a  horse,  and  did  not  join  us  this  evening. 
Five  of  the  Indians  came  and  stayed  with  us  during  the 
night.  They  told  us  that  they  were  sometimes  reduced 
to  such  want,  as  to  be  obliged  to  eat  their  horses. 

Wednesday  21.  About  7  o'clock  in  the  morning  we 
continued  our  journey  down  the  valley,  and  came  to  a 
few  lodges  of  Indians  where  our  guide  lives.  We  re- 
mained here  about  two  hours,  during  which  time  a  num- 
ber of  Indians  passed  us,  going  to  fish.  We  proceeded  on 
the  way  the  Indians  had  gone;  and  one  of  our  men  went 
with  them  to  the  fishing  place.  The  valley  becomes  very 
narrow  here,  and  a  large  branch  of  the  river  comes  in  a 
short  distance  below.  Here  we  had  to  ascend  high 
ground,  the  bottom  is  so  narrow;  and  continued  on  the 
high  ground  about  six  miles  when  we  came  again  to  the 
river,  where  a  fine  branch  flows  in,  the  valley  is  four  or 
five  miles  wide.  In  this  branch  we  shot  a  salmon  about 
six  pounds  weight.  We  traveled  20  miles  this  day,  and 
encamped  at  a  place  where  the  mountains  come  close  to 
the  river.  In  the  valley  through  which  we  passed  and 
all  along  the  river,  there  are  cherries,  currants  and  other 
small  fruit.  The  man. who  had  remained  behind  at  the 
first  village  and  the  other  who  had  gone  with  the  Indians 
to  their  fishing  place,  both  joined  us  here.  The  Indians 
gaye  them  five  salmon  to  bring  to  us:  and  he  that  had 
stayed  for  a  horse,  brought  one  with  him.  At  this  place 
the  river  is  about  70  yards  wide. 

Thursday  22.  The  morning  was  fine,  with  a  great 
white  frost.  We  began  our  journey  at  7  o'clock;  and 
having  traveled  about  a  mile,  crossed  a  branch  of  the 
river.  Here  the  mountains  come  so  close  on  the  river, 
we  could  not  get  through  the  narrows,  and  had  to  cross  a 
very  high  mountain  about  3  miles  over,  and  then  struck 
the  river  again,  where  there  is  a  small  bottom  and  one 


118  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

lodge  of  the  natives  in  it,  gathering  berries,  haws  and 
cherries  for  winter  food.  We  soon  had  to  ascend  another 
large  mountain,  and  had  to  proceed  in  the  same  way  until 
we  crossed  four  of  them,  when  we  came  to  a  large  creek, 
where  there  is  a  small  bottom  and  three  lodges  of  Indians. 
Three  of  our  men  having  gone  through  the  bottom  to 
hunt,  came  first  upon  the  lodges  which  greatly  alarmed 
the  unhappy  natives,  who  all  fell  a  weeping  and  began 
to  run  off;  but  the  party  coming  up  with  the  guide  relieved 
them  from  their  fears.  They  then  received  us  kindly 
and  gave  us  berries  and  fish  to  eat.  We  remained  with 
them  about  two  hours  and  gave  them  some  presents. 
Those  of  the  natives,  who  are  detached  in  small  parties, 
appear  to  live  better,  and  to  have  a  larger  supply  of  pro- 
visions, than  those  who  live  in  large  villages.  The  peo- 
ple of  these  three  lodges  have  gathered  a  quantity  of  sun- 
flower seed,  and  also  of  the  lambs-quarter,  which  they 
pound  and  mix  with  service  berries,  and  make  of  the 
composition  a  kind  of  bread;  which  appears  capable  of 
sustaining  life  for  some  time.  On  this  bread  and  the  fish 
they  take  out  of  the  river,  these  people,  who  appear  to 
be  the  most  wretched  of  the  human  species,  chiefly  sub- 
sist. They  gave  us  some  dried  salmon,  and  we  proceed- 
ed down  the  river;  but  with  a  great  deal  of  difficulty:  the 
mountains  being  so  close,  steep  and  rocky.  The  river 
here  is  about  80  yards  wide,  and  a  continual  rapid,  but 
not  deep.  We  went  about  15  miles  to  day,  and  encamp- 
ed on  a  small  island,  as  there  was  no  oiher  level  place 
near.  Game  is  scarce,  and  we  killed  nothing  since  the 
1 8th  but  one  deer ;  and  our  stock  of  provisions  is  exhaus- 
ted. 

Friday  23.  We  proceeded  down. the  river  through 
dreadful  narrows,  where  the  rocks  were  in  some  places 
breast  high,  and  no  path  or  trail  of  any  kind.  This 
morning  we  killed  a  goose,  and  badly  wounded  a  large 
buck  in  the  water.  One  of  our  sergeants  is  very  unwell. 
We  went  on  three  miles,  when  Captain  Clarke  did  not 
think  proper  to  proceed  further  with  the  horses,  until  he 
should  go  forward  and  examine  the  pass.  So  we  halted 
on  a  small  flat  and  breakfasted  on  some  fish  the  natives 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  119 

had  given  us.  Captain  Clarke,  our  guide,  and  three  men 
then  went  on.  Another  Indian  who  had  come  on  from 
the  last  Indian  camp  remained  with  us.  We  had  yet  seen 
no  timber  large  enough  to  make  canoes.  Two  of  the 
hunters  went  in  search  of  the  buck,  which  had  been 
wounded;  and  the  rest  staid  at  the  camp  to  fish.  In  the 
afternoon  the  men  came  in  from  hunting  the  wounded 
deer,  but  could  not  find  him.  They  killed  three  prairie 
hens,  or  pheasants.  At  night  the  sergeant  who  had  been 
sick,  became  better.  We  caught  some  small  fish  in  the 
night.  The  natives  take  their  fish  by  spearing  them; 
their  spears  for  this  purpose  are  poles  with  bones  fixed  to 
the  ends  of  them,  with  which  they  strike  the  fish.  They 
have  but  four  guns  in  the  nation,  and  catch  goats  and 
some  other  animals  by  running  them  down  with  horses. 
The  dresses  of  the  women  are  a  kind  of  shifts  made  of 
the  skins  of  these  goats  and  mountain  sheep,  which  come 
down  to  the  middle  of  the  leg.  Some  of  them  have 
robes,  but  others  none.  Some  of  the  men  have  shirts 
and  some  are  without  any.  Some  also  have  robes  made 
of  beaver  and  buffalo  skins ;  but  there  are  few  of  the 
former.  I  saw  one  made  of  ground  hog  skins. 

Saturday  24.  We  had  a  pleasant  morning  and  some 
of  the  men  went  out  to  hunt.  The  river  at  this  place  is 
so  confined  by  the  mountains  that  it  is  not  more  than  20 
yards  wide,  and  very  rapid.  The  mountains  on  the  sides 
are  not  less  than  1000  feet  high  and  very  steep.  There 
are  a  few  pines  growing  on  them.  We  caught  some 
small  fish  to  day,  and  our  hunters  killed  five  prairie  fowls. 
These  were  all  we  had  to  subsist  on.  At  1  o'clock  Capt. 
Clarke  and  his  party  returned,  after  having  been  down 
the  river  about  12  miles.  They  found  it  was  not  possible 
to  go  down  either  by  land  or  water,  without  much  risk 
and  trouble.  The  water  is  so  rapid  and  the  bed  of  the 
river  so  rocky,  that  going  by  water  appeared  impractica- 
ble; and  the  mountains  so  amazingly  high,  steep  and 
rocky,  that  it  seemed  impossible  to  go  along  the  river  by 
land.  Our  guide  speaks  of  a  way  to  sea,  by  going  up 
the  south  fork  of  this  river,  getting  on  the  mountains  that 
way,  and  then  turning  to  the  south  west  again.  Captain 


120  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

Clarke  therefore  wrote  a  letter  to  Captain  Lewis,  and  dis- 
patched a  man  on  horseback  to  meet  him;  and  we  all 
turned  back  up  the  river  again,  poor  and  uncomfortable 
enough,  as  we  had  nothing  to  eat,  and  there  is  no  game. 
We  proceeded  up  about  three  miles,  and  supperless  went 
to  rest  for  the  night. 

Sunday  25.  We  set  out  early  and  had  a  fine  morn- 
ing; passed  the  Indian  camp,  where  they  gave  us  a  little 
dried  salmon,  and  proceeded  back  again  over  the  moun- 
tains. Some  hunters  went  on  ahead  and  about  4  o'clock 
we  got  over  the  four  mountains,  and  encamped  in  the 
valley.  Two  men  went  to  hunt,  and  all  the  rest  to  fish. 
We  soon  caught  as  many  small  fish  as  made,  with  two 
salmon  our  guide  got  from  some  Indians,  a  comfortable 
supper.  At  dark  our  hunters  came  in  and  had  killed  but 
one  beaver. 

Monday  26.  We  had  again  a  pleasant  morning;  and 
four  hunters  went  on  early  ahead,  and  one  man  to  look 
for  the  horses.  We  breakfasted  on  the  beaver  and  a 
salmon,  which  had  been  saved  from  supper  the  preceding 
evening.  The  man,  who  had  gone  for  the  horses,  having 
returned  without  finding  them,  four  or  five  more  went 
out,  and  our  guide  immediately  found  them.  We  then 
about  10  o'clock,  proceeded  on  to  the  forks,  where  we 
found  our  hunters;  but  they  had  killed  nothing.  So  we 
went  up  to  a  small  village  of  the  natives,  got  some  fish 
from  them,  and  lodged  there  all  night. 

Tuesday  27.  A  fine  morning  with  frost;  and  eight  of 
us  went  out  to  hunt.  I  observed  some  flax  growing  in 
the  bottoms  on  this  river,  but  saw  no  clover  or  timothy, 
as  I  had  seen  on  the  Missouri  and  Jefferson  rivers. 
There  is  a  kind  of  wild  sage  or  hyssop,  as  high  as  a 
man's  head,  full  of  branches  and  leaves,  which  grows  in 
these  bottoms,  with  shrubs  of  different  kinds.  In  the 
evening  we  all  came  in  again,  and  had  killed  nothing  but 
a  fish.  We  got  some  more  from  the  natives,  which  we 
subsisted  on.  We  lodged  here  again  all  night,  but  heard 
nothing  from  Captain  Lewis. 

Wednesday  28.      The  morning  again  was  pleasant, 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  121 

and  I  went  on  to  the  upper  village,  where  I  found  Capt. 
Lewis  and  his  party  buying  horses.  They  had  got  23 
which  with  two  we  had,  made  in  the  whole  25.  1  then 
returned  to  our  camp,  a  distance  of  15  miles,  and  arrived 
there  late.  I  found  the  weather  very  cold  for  the  season. 

Thursday  29.  There  was  a  severe  white  frost  this 
morning.  Captain  Clarke  and  all  the  men  except  myself 
and  another  who  remained  to  keep  camp  and  prepare 
packsaddles,  went  up  to  Captain  Lewis's  camp.  While 
I  lay  here  to  day,  one  of  the  natives  shewed  me  their 
method  of  producing  fire,  which  is  somewhat  curious. 
They  have  two  sticks  ready  for  the  operation,  one  about 
nine  and  the  other  eighteen  inches  long:  the  short  stick 
they  lay  down  flat  and  rub  the  end  of  the  other  upon  it 
in  a  perpendicular  direction  for  a  few  minutes;  and  the 
friction  raises  a  kind  of  dust,  which  in  a  short  time  takes 
fire.  These  people  make  willow  baskets  so  close  and  to 
such  perfection  as  to  hold  water,  for  which  purpose  they 
make  use  of  them.  They  make  much  use  of  the  sun- 
flower and  lambs-quarter  seed,  as  before  mentioned; 
which  with  berries  and  wild  cherries  pounded  together, 
compose  the  only  bread  they  have  any  knowledge  of,  or 
in  use.  The  fish  they  take  in  this  river  are  of  excellent 
kinds,  especially  the  salmon,  the  roes  of  which  when 
dried  and  pounded  make  the  best  of  soup. 

Friday  30.  We  remained  here  all  day,  and  in  the 
evening  the  whole  of  the  corps  came  down  within  a  mile 
of  our  camp,  and  remained  there  all  night,  being  a  good 
place  for  grass. 

Saturday  31.  They  all  came  down  to  our  camp,  and 
we  proceeded  on  with  27  horses  and  one  mule.  Our  old 
guide  after  consulting  with  the  rest  of  the  Indians,  thought 
it  was  better  to  go  along  the  north  side  of  the  Columbia, 
than  on  the  south  side.  We  therefore  proceeded  down, 
the  same  way  Captain  Clarke  had  been  before,  30  miles, 
and  then  turned  up  a  creek  that  comes  in  from  the  north, 
and  encamped  on  it  about  three  miles  and  a  half  from  the 
mouth.  Two  hunters  had  gone  on  ahead  this  morning, 
and  at  night  joined  us,  having  killed  one  deer.  The  first 


122  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

cost  of  the  articles,  which  had  been  given  for  each  horse, 
did  not  amount  to  more  than  from  three  to  five  dollars;  so 
that  the  whole  of  them  only  cost  about  one  hundred  dol- 
lars. 


CHAPTER   XII. 

Sunday,  September  1,  1805.  We  set  out  early  in  a 
fine  morning,  and  traveled  on  nearly  a  west  course.  We 
found  here  the  greatest  quantity  and  best  service  berries, 
I  had  ever  seen  before ;  and  abundance  of  choak-cherries. 
There  is  also  a  small  bush  grows  in  this  part  of  the  coun- 
try, about  six  inches  high,  which  bears  a  bunch  of  small 
purple  berries.  Some  call  it  mountain  holly;  the  fruit  is 
of  an  acid  taste.  We  are  much  better  supplied  with 
water  than  I  expected;  and  crossed  several  fine  springs 
among  the  mountains  through  which  we  pass.  At  noon 
some  rain  fell,  and  the  day  continued  cloudy.  About 
the  middle  of  the  day  Capt.  Clarke's  blaekman's  feet 
became  so  sore  that  he  had  to  ride  on  horseback.  At  3 
o'clock  we  came  to  a  creek,  where  there  was  fine  grass 
and  we  halted  to  let  our  horses  eat.  There  are  a  great 
number  of  fish  in  this  creek.  After  we  halted  the  weath- 
er became  cloudy,  and  a  considerable  quantity  of  rain 
fell.  We  therefore  concluded  to  remain  where  we  were 
all  night,  having  come  this  day  18  miles.  Our  hunters 
killed  a  deer,  and  we  caught  five  fish. 

Monday  2.  The  morning  was  cloudy.  We  set  out 
early ;  proceeded  up  the  creek,  and  passed  some  parts 
closely  timbered  with  spruce  and  pine.  We  went  on 
with  difficulty  on  account  of  the  bushes,  the  narrowness 
of  the  way  and  stones  that  injured  our  horses  feet,  they 
they  being  without  shoes.  In  the  forenoon  we  killed 
some  pheasants  and  ducks,  and  a  small  squirrel.  In  the 
afternoon  we  had  a  good  deal  of  rain,  and  the  worst  road 
(if  road  it  can  be  called)  that  was  ever  traveled.  The 
creek  is  become  small  and  the  hills  come  close  in  upon 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  123 

the  banks  of  it,  covered  thick  with  standing  timber  and 
fallen  trees;  so  that  in  some  places  we  were  obliged  to  go 
up  the  sides  of  the  hills,  which  are  very  steep,  and  then 
down  again  in  order  to  get  along  at  all.  In  going  up 
these  ascents  the  horses  would  sometimes  fall  backwards, 
which  injured  them  very  much ;  and  one  was  so  badly 
hurt  that  the  driver  was  obliged  to  leave  his  load  on  the 
side  of  one  of  the  hills.  In  the  low  ground  there  are 
most  beautiful  tall  strait  pine  trees  of  different  kinds, 
except  of  white  pine.  Game  is  scarce;  and  a  small 
quantity  of  dried  salmon,  which  we  got  from  the  natives 
is  almost  our  whole  stock  of  provisions.  A  son  of  our 
guide  joined  us  to  day  and  is  going  on.  We  went  13 
miles  and  encamped;  but  some  of  the  men  did  not  come 
up  till  late  at  night. 

Tuesday  3.  The  morning  of  this  day  was  cloudy 
and  cool.  Two  men  went  back  with  a  horse  to  bring  on 
the  load,  which  had  been  left  behind  last  night;  and  we 
breakfasted  on  the  last  of  our  salmon,  and  waited  their 
return.  Two  hunters  were  sent  on  ahead,  and  on  the 
return  of  the  two  men,  who  had  been  sent  back,  we  pur- 
sued our  journey  up  the  creek,  which  still  continued 
fatiguing  almost  beyond  description.  The  country  is  very 
mountainous  and  thickly  timbered;  mostly  with  spruce 
pine.  Having  gone  nine  miles  we  halted  for  dinner, 
which  was  composed  of  a  small  portion  of  flour  we  had 
along  and  the  last  of  our  pork,  which  was  but  a  trifle: 
Our  hunters  had  not  killed  any  thing.  We  staid  here 
about  two  hours,  during  which  time  some  rain  fell  and 
the  weather  was  extremely  cold  for  the  season.  We  then 
went  on  about  three  miles  over  a  large  mountain,  to  the 
head  of  another  creek  and  encamped  there  for  the  night. 
This  was  not  the  creek  our  guide  wished  to  have  come 
upon ;  and  to  add  to  our  misfortunes  we  had  a  cold  even- 
ing with  rain. 

Wednesday  4.  A  considerable  quantity  of  snow  fell 
last  night,  and  the  morning  was  cloudy.  After  eating  a 
few  grains  of  parched  corn,  we  set  out  at  8  o'clock; 
crossed  a  large  mountain  and  hit  on  the  creek  and  small 
valley,  which  were  wished  for  by  our  guide.  We  killed 


124      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

some  pheasants  on  our  way,  and  were  about  to  make  use 
of  the  last  of  our  flour,  when  to  our  great  joy,  one  of  our 
hunters  killed  a  fine  deer.  So  we  dined  upon  that  and 
proceeded  down  a  small  valley  about  a  mile  wide,  with  a 
rich  black  soil ;  in  which  there  are  a  great  quantity  of 
sweet  roots  and  herbs,such  as  sweet  myrrh,  angelica  and 
several  other,  that  the  natives  make  use  of,  and  of  the 
names  of  which  I  am  unacquainted.  There  is  also  tim- 
othy grass  growing  in  it;  and  neither  the  valley  nor  the 
hills  are  so  thickly  timbered,  as  the  mountains  we  had 
lately  passed.  What  timber  there  is,  is  mostly  pitch 
pine.  We  kept  down  the  valley  about  five  miles,  and 
came  to  the  Tussapa  band  of  the  Flathead  nation  of 
Indians,  or  a  part  of  them.  We  found  them  encamped 
on  the  creek  and  we  encamped  with  them.  * 

Thursday  5.  This  was  a  fine  morning  with  a  great 
white  frost.  The  Indian  dogs  are  so  hungry  and  raven- 
ous, that  they  eat  four  or  five  pair  of  our  moccasons  last 
night.  We  remained  here  all  day,  and  recruited  our 
horses  to  40  and  three  colts;  and  made  four  or  five  of  this 
nation  of  Indian  chiefs.  They  are  a  very  friendly  peo- 
ple; have  plenty  of  robes  and  skins  for  covering,  and  a 
large  stock  of  horses,  some  of  which  are  very  good;  but 
they  have  nothing  to  eat,  but  berries,  roots  and  such  arti- 
cles of  food.  This  band  is  on  its  way  over  to  the  Mis- 
souri or  Yellow-Stone  river  to  hunt  buffalo.  They  are 
the  whitest  Indians  I  ever  saw. 

Friday  6.  A  cloudy  morning.  Wre  exchanged  some 
of  our  horses,  that  were  fatigued,  with  the  natives;  about 
12  o'clock  some  rain  fell;  and  we  prepared  to  move  on. 
At  one  we  started,  when  the  Indians  also  set  out.  We 
proceeded  over  a  mountain  to  a  creek,  and  went  down 
the  creek,  our  course  being  northwest;  found  the  country 
mountainous  and  poor;  and  the  game  scarce.  Having 

*  Captain  Clarke  in  his  letter  to  his  brother,  calls  them  the 
Olenchshoot  band  of  the  Tucknapax.  It  is  of  no  very  great  im- 
portance, at  present,  to  know  by  what  names  the  several  tribes  and 
bands  are  distinguished;  and  Mr.  Gass  says  that  without  an  inter- 
preter it  was  very  difficult  to  ascertain  them  with  any  degree  of 
certainty. 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  125 

traveled  about  seven  miles  we  encamped.  Four  hunters 
had  been  out  to  day,  but  killed  nothing;  we  therefore 
supped  upon  a  small  quantity  of  corn  we  had  yet  left. 

Saturday  7.  We  set  out  early  in  a  cloudy  cool  morn- 
ing; and  our  hunters  went  on  as  usual.  We  proceeded 
down  the  creek,  and  in  our  way  we  were  met  by  a  hun- 
ter, who  had  not  come  in  last  night,  and  who  had  lost  his 
horse.  We  halted  at  12  o'clock,  and  one  of  the  hunters 
killed  two  deer;  which  was  a  subject  of  much  joy  and 
congratulation.  Here  we  remained  to  dine,  and  some 
rain  fell.  On  the  south  of  this  place  there  are  very  high 
mountains  covered  with  snow  and  timber,  and  on  the 
north  prairie  hills.  After  staying  here  two  hours  we  pro- 
ceeded on  down  the  creek;  found  the  country  much  the 
same  as  that  which  we  had  passed  through  in  the  fore- 
noon; and  having  traveled  about  20  miles  since  the 
morning,  encamped  for  the  night.  The  valley  is  become 
more  extensive,  and  our  creek  has  increased  to  a  con- 
siderable river.  Some  rain  fell  in  the  afternoon,  and  our 
hunters  killed  two  cranes  on  our  way. 

Sunday  8.  The  morning  was  wet,  and  we  proceeded 
on  over  some  beautiful  plains.  One  of  our  hunters  had 
remained  out  all  night,  at  noon  we  halted  and  they  all 
came  in,  having  killed  an  elk  and  a  deer.  At  two  we 
proceeded  on  again,  and  had  a  cold,  wet  and  disagreeable 
afternoon,  but  our  road  or  way  was  level  along  the  valley. 
Having  traveled  20  miles,  we  encamped  and  our  hunters 
came  in,  one  of  whom  had  killed  a  deer,  and  another  had 
caught  two  mares  and  a  colt,  which  he  brought  with  him. 

Monday  9.  The  morning  was  fair,  but  cool;  and  we 
continued  our  journey  down  the  river.  The  soil  of  the 
valley  is  poor  and  gravelly;  and  the  high  snow-topped 
mountains  are  still  in  view  on  our  left:  Our  course  gen- 
erally north  a  few  degrees  west.  We  halted  at  noon:  on 
our  way  the  hunters  had  killed  three  wild  geese;  so  we 
have  plenty  of  provisions  at  present.  At  2  o'clock  we 
again  went  forward,  and  crossed  over  the  Flathead  river, 
about  100  yards  wide,  and  which  we  called  Clarke's  river; 
passed  through  a  close  timbered  bottom  of  about  two 
miles,  and  again  came  into  beautiful  plains.  The  timber 


J26  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS   AND  CLARKE 

on  this  bottom  is  pitch  pine.  We  traveled  19  miles  and 
encamped  on  a  large  creek,  which  comes  in  from  the 
south.  Our  hunters  this  day  killed  three  deer. 

Tuesday  10.  We  remained  here  all  this  day,  which 
was  clear  and  pleasant,  to  let  our  horses  rest,  and  to  take 
an  observation.  At  night  our  hunters  came  in,  and  had 
killed  five  deer.  With  one  of  the  hunters,  three  of  the 
Flathead  Indians  came  to  our  camp.  They  informed  us 
that  the  rest  of  their  band  was  over  on  the  Columbia  river, 
about  five  or  six  days'  journey  distant,  with  pack-horses; 
that  two  of  the  Snake  nation  had  stolen  some  of  their 
horses,  and  that  they  were  in  pursuit  of  them.  We  gave 
them  some  presents,  and  one  stayed  to  go  over  the 
mountains  with  us ;  the  other  two  continued  their  pursuit. 

Wednesday  11.  This  was  a  fine  morning,  and  we 
went  out  to  collect  our  horses,  in  order  to  renew  our 
journey,  and  found  all  but  one.  Captain  Lewis  had  a 
meridian  altitude  that  gave  46°  48.  28.  8.  north  latitude. 
In  the  bottoms  here,  there  are  a  "great  quantity  of  cher- 
ries. The  mountains  are  not  so  high,  as  at  some  distance 
back.  At  4  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  the  horse  was  found, 
and  we  proceeded  on  up  the  creek  nearly  a  west  course, 
through  small  bottoms.  We  went  about  six  miles  and 
encamp  ad;  when  our  hunters  came  in  but  had  killed 
nothing.  The  country  is  poor  and  mountainous. 

Thursday  12.  We  started  early  on  our  journey  and 
had  a  fine  morning.  Having  traveled  two  miles  we 
reached  the  mountains  which  are  very  steep;  but  the 
road  over  them  pretty  good,  as  it  is  much  traveled  by  the 
natives ,  who  come  across  to  the  Flathead  river  to  gather 
cherries  and  berries.  Our  hunters  in  a  short  time  killed 
four  deer.  At  noon  we  halted  at  a  branch  of  the  creek, 
on  the  banks  of  which  are  a  number  of  strawberry  vines, 
haws,  and  service  berry  bushes.  At  two  we  proceeded 
on  over  a  large  mountain,  where  there  is  no  water,  and 
we  could  find  no  place  to  encamp  until  late  at  night ,  when 
we  arrived  at  a  small  branch,  and  encamped  by  it,  in  a 
very  inconvenient  place,  having  come  23  miles. 

Friday  13.  A  cloudy  morning.  Captain  Lewis's 
horse  could  not  be  found ;  but  some  of  the  men  were  left 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  127 

to  hunt  for  him  and  we  proceeded  on.  When  we  had 
gone  two  miles,  we  came  to  a  most  beautiful  warm  spring, 
the  water  of  which  is  considerably  above  blood-heat ;  and 
I  could  not  bear  my  hand  in  it  without  uneasiness. 
There  are  so  many  paths  leading  to  and  from  this  spring, 
that  our  guide  took  a  wrong  one  for  a  mile  or  two,  and  we 
had  bad  traveling  across  till  we  got  into  the  road  again. 
At  noon  we  halted.  Game  is  scarce;  and  our  hunters 
killed  nothing  since  yesterday  morning;  though  four  of 
the  best  were  constantly  out,  and  every  one  of  them 
furnished  with  a  good  horse.  While  we  remained  here, 
Captain  Lewis  and  the  men,  who  had  been  left  with  him, 
came  up;  but  had  not  found  the  horse.  At  2  o'clock  we 
proceeded  on  again  over  a  mountain,  and  in  our  way 
found  a  deer,  which  our  hunters  had  killed  and  hung  up. 
In  a  short  time  we  met  with  them,  and  Captain  Lewis  sent 
two  back  to  look  for  the  horse.  We  passed  over  a  divi- 
ding  ridge  to  the  waters  of  another  creek,  and  after  tra- 
veling  12  miles  wo  encamped  on  the  creek,  up  which 
there  are  some  prairies  or  plains. 

Saturday  14.  We  set  out  early  in  a  cloudy  morning; 
passed  over  a  large  mountain,  crossed  Stony  creek,  about 
30  yards  wide,  and  then  went  over  another  large  moun- 
tain, on  which  I  saw  service-berry  bushes  hanging  full 
of  fruit;  but  not  yet  ripe,  owing  to  the  coldness  of  the 
climate  on  these  mountains:  I  also  saw  a  number  of 
other  shrubs,  which  bear  fruit,  but  for  which  I  know  no 
names.  There  are  black  elder  and  bore-tree,  pitch  and 
spruce  pine  all  growing  together  on  these  mountains. 
Being  here  unable  to  find  a  place  to  halt  at,  where  our 
horses  could  feed,  we  went  on  to  the  junction  of  Stony 
creek,  with  another  large  creek,  which  a  short  distance 
down  becomes  a  considerable  river,  and  encamped  for 
the  night,  as  it  rained  and  was  disagreeable  traveling. 
The  two  hunters,  that  had  gone  back  here  joined  us  with 
Captain  Lewis's  horse,  but  none  of  the  hunters  killed  any 
thing  except  two  or  three  pheasants;  on  which,  without  a 
miracle  it  was  impossible  to  feed  30  hungry  men  and 
upwards,  besides  some  Indians.  So  Captain  Lewis  gave 
out  some  portable  soup,  which  he  had  along,  to  be  used 


128  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

in  cases  of  necessity.  Some  of  the  men  did  not  relish 
this  soup,  and  agreed  to  kill  a  colt ;  which  they  immedi- 
ately did,  and  set  about  roasting  it;  and  which  appeared 
to  me  to  be  good  eating.  This  day  we  traveled  seven- 
teen miles. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

Sunday  15.  Having  breakfasted  on  colt  we  moved 
on  down  the  river  three  miles,  and  again  took  the  moun- 
tains. In  going  up,  one  of  the  horses  fell,  and  required  eight 
or  ten  men  to  assist  him  in  getting  up  again.  We  contin- 
ued  our  march  to  2  o'clock  when  we  halted  at  a  spring  and 
dined  on  portable  soup  and  a  handful  of  parched  corn. 
We  then  proceeded  on  our  journey  over  the  mountain 
to  a  high  point,  where,  it  being  dark,  we  were  obliged  to 
encamp.  There  was  here  no  water;  but  a  bank  of  snow 
answered  as  a  substitute;  and  we  supped  upon  soup. 

Monday  16.  Last  night  about  12  o'clock  it  began  to 
snow.  We  renewed  our  march  early,  though  the  morn- 
ing was  very  disagreeable,  and  proceeded  over  the  most 
terrible  mountains  I  ever  beheld:  It  continued  snowing 
until  3  o'clock  P.  M.  when  we  halted,  took  some  more 
soup,  and  went  on  till  we  came  to  a  small  stream  where 
we  encamped  for  the  night.  Here  we  killed  another- 
colt  and  supped  on  it.  The  snow  fell  so  thick,  and  the 
day  was  so  dark,  that  a  person  could  not  see  to  a  distance 
of  200  yards.  In  the  night  and  during  the  day  the  snow 
fell  about  10  inches  deep. 

Tuesday  17.  Our  horses  scattered  so  much  last  night, 
that  they  were  not  collected  until  noon,  at  which  time  we 
began  our  march  again.  It  was  a  fine  day  with  warm 
sunshine,  which  melted  the  snow  very  fast  on  the  south 
sides  of  the  hills,  and  made  the  traveling  very  fatiguing 
and  uncomfortable.  We  continued  over  high  desert 
mountains,  where  our  hunters  could  find  no  game,  nor 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  129 

signs  of  any  except  a  boar's  tract  which  they  observed 
to  day.  At  dark  we  halted  at  a  spring  on  the  top  of  a 
mountain;  killed  another  colt,  and  encamped  there  all 
night. 

Wednesday  18.  This  was  a  clear  cold  frosty  morn- 
ing. All  our  horses  except  one  were  collected  early: 
Six  hunters  went  on  ahead;  one  man  to  look  for  the 
horse;  and  all  the  rest  of  us  proceeded  on  our  journey 
over  the  mountains,  which  are  very  high  and  rough. 
About  twelve  we  passed  a  part  where  the  snow  was  off, 
and  no  appearance  that  much  had  lately  fallen.  At  three 
we  came  to  snow  again,  and  halted  to  take  some  soup, 
which  we  made  with  snow  water,  as  no  other  could  be 
found.  Here  the  man,  who  had  been  sent  for  the  horse 
came  up,  but  had  not  found  him.  Except -on  the  sides 
of  hills  where  it  has  fallen,  the  country  is  closely  timber- 
ed with  pitch  and  spruce  pine,  and  what  some  call  balsam- 
fir.  We  can  see  no  prospect  of  gatting  off  these  desert 
mountains  yet,  except  the  appearance  of  a  deep  cove  on 
each  side  of  the  ridga  we  are  passing  along.  We  remain- 
ed here  an  hour  and  a  half,  and  then  proceeded  on  down 
a  steep  mountain,  and  encamped  after  traveling  18  miles. 
We  had  great  difficulty  in  getting  water,  being  obliged  to 
go  half  a  mile  for  it  down  a  very  steep  precipice. 

Thursday  19.  Our  hunters  did  not  join  us  last  night, 
which  was  disagreeably  cold.  About  eight  this  morning 
we  set  out,  and  proceeded  on  in  our  way  over  the  moun- 
tains; the  sun  shining  warm  and  pleasant.  We  traveled 
a  west  course,  and  about  12  o'clock  halted  at  a  spring  to 
take  a  little  more  soup.  The  snow  is  chiefly  gone  except 
on  the  north  points  of  the  high  mountains.  At  two  P.  M. 
we  again  went  on,  and  descended  a  steep  mountain  into 
a  cove  on  our  left  hand,  where  there  is  a  large  creek, 
which  here  runs  towards  the  east.  The  hills  on  each 
side,  along  which  the  trail  or  path  passes,  are  very  steep. 
One  of  our  horses  fell  down  the  precipice  about  100 
feet,  and  was  not  killed,  nor  much  hurt:  the  reason  was, 
that  there  is  no  bottom  below,  and  the  precipice,  the  only 
bank,  which  the  creek  has,  therefore  the  horse  pitched 
into  the  water,  without  meeting  with  any  intervening 
9 


130      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

object,  which  could  materially  injure  him.  We  made 
17  miles  this  day  and  encamped  on  a  small  branch  of  the 
creek.  Having  heard  nothing  from  our  hunters,  we  again 
supped  upon  some  of  our  portable  soup.  The  men  are 
becoming  lean  and  debilitated,  on  account  of  the  scarcity 
and  poor  quality  of  the  provisions  on  which  we  subsist: 
our  horses'  feet  are  also  becoming  very  sore.  We  have, 
however,  some  hopes  of  getting  soon  out  of  this  horrible 
mountainous  desert,  as  we  have  discovered  the  appearance 
of  a  valley  or  level  part  of  the  country  about  40  miles 
ahead.  When  this  discovery  was  made  there  was  as 
much  joy  and  rejoicing  among  the  corps,  as  happens 
among  passengers  at  sea,  who  have  experienced  a  dan- 
gerous and  protracted  voyage,  when  they  first  discover 
land  on  the  long  looked  for  coast. 

Friday  20.  It  was  late  before  our  horses  were  collec- 
ted, but  the  day  was  fine;  and  at  9  o'clock  we  continued 
our  march.  Having  proceeded  about  a  mile,  we  came  to 
a  small  glade,  where  our  hunters  had  found  a  horse,  and 
had  killed,  dressed  and  hung  him  up.  Captain  Clarke, 
who  had  gone  forward  with  the  hunters,  left  a  note 
informing  us  that  he  and  they  intended  to  go  on  to  the 
valley  or  level  country  ahead,  as  there  was  no  chance  of 
killing  any  game  in  these  desert  mountains.  We  loaded 
the  meat  and  proceeded  along  the  mountains.  At  noon 
we  stopped  and  dined,  on  our  horse  flesh:  here  we  discov- 
ed  that  a  horse,  having  Captain  Lewis's  clothes  and  bag- 
gage on  him,  had  got  into  the  bushes  while  we  were  load- 
ing the  meat,  and  was  left  behind.  One  of  the  men 
therefore  was  sent  back,  but  returned  without  finding  him. 
Two  other  men  with  a  horse  were  then  sent  back,  and  we 
continued  our  march  along  a  ridge,  where  there  are  rocks, 
that  appear  to  be  well  calculated  for  making  millstones; 
and  some  beautiful  tall  cedars  among  the  spruce  pine. 
Night  came  on  before  we  got  off  this  ridge,  and  we  had 
much  difficulty  in  finding  water.  The  soil  on  the  western 
side  of  the  mountains  appears  much  better  than  on  the 
east;  and  not  so  rocky.  We  can  see  the  valley  ahead, 
but  a  great  ways  off. 

Saturday  21.     The  morning  was   pleasant;  but  it  was 


132  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

late  before  we  got  our  horses  collected.  About  10  o'clock 
we  were  ready  to  start;  and  passed  along  the  ridge  with 
a  great  deal  of  difficulty  and  fatigue,  our  march  being 
much  impeded  by  the  fallen  timber.  A  great  portion  of 
the  timber  through  which  we  passed  along  this  ridge  is 
dead,  and  a  considerable  part  fallen;  and  our  horses  are 
weak  and  much  jaded.  One  of  them  got  into  a  small 
swamp,  and  wet  a  bale  of  merchandize.  About  4  o'clock 
in  the  afternoon  we  got  down  the  mountain  to  a  creek, 
which  runs  nearly  southwest.  This  course  we  suppose 
is  a  very  good  one  for  us.  We  went  down  this  creek 
about  a  mile,  and  encamped  on  it  for  the  night  in  a  small 
rich  bottom.  Here  we  killed  a  duck  and  two  or  three 
pheasants;  and  supped  upon  them  and  the  last  of  our 
horse  meat.  We  also  killed  a  wolf  and  eat  it.  The 
hunters  did  not  join  us  this  evening,  nor  the  two  men  who 
went  to  look  for  the  horse. 

Sunday  22.  This  was  a  fine  warm  day.  About  9 
o'clock  we  continued  our  route  over  a  ridge  about  a  west 
course,  upon  the  top  of  which  there  is  a  handsome  small 
prairie;  where  we  met  one  of  our  hunters  with  a  supply 
of  roots,  berries  and  some  fish,  which  he  procured  from 
another  band  of  the  Flathead  nation  of  Indians.  Cap- 
tain Clarke  and  the  hunters  had  arrived  on  the  20th  at 
the  encampment  or  lodges  of  these  Indians  which  are  in 
a  beautiful  prairie,  about  eight  or  nine  miles  from  this 
place.  The  roots  they  use  are  made  into  a  kind  of  bread; 
which  is  good  and  nourishing,  and  tastes  like  that  some- 
times made  of  pumkins.  We  remained  here  about  an 
hour  and  then  proceeded  on  again,  down  the  ridge  along 
a  very  rough  way;  and  in  the  evening  arrived  in  a  fine 
large  valley,  clear  of  these  dismal  and  horrible  moun- 
tains. Here  our  two  men  overtook  us;  who  had  found 
the  lost  horse  and  clothing,  but  on  their  way  to  us 
lost  both  the  horses.  The  Indians  belonging  to  this 
band,  received  us  kindly,  appeared  pleased  to  see  us,  and 
gave  us  such  provisions  as  they  had.  We  were  at  a  loss 
for  an  interpreter,  none  of  our  interpreters  being  able  to 
understand  them.  Captain  Clarke  met  us  here:  he  had 
been  over  at  the  river,  and  found  the  distance  18  miles 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  133 

ind  a  good  road  from  this  place.  He  thinks  we  will  be 
ible  to  take  the  water  again  at  the  place  he  had  been  at; 
md  where  he  left  five  hunters,  as  there  was  some  game 
ibout  the  river  in  that  quarter. 

Monday  23.  The  morning  was  warm  and  pleasant. 
We  stayed  here  some  time  to  procure  provisions  from  the 
latives,  for  which  we  gave  them  in  exchange  a  number 
>f  small  articles.  The  provisions  which  we  got  consist- 
ed of  roots,  bread  and  fish.  Their  bread  is  made  of  roots 
Tvhich  they  call  comas,  and  which  resemble  onions  in 
shape,  but  are  of  a  sweet  taste.  This  bread  is  manufac- 
;ured  by  steaming,  pound'ng  and  baking  the  roots  on  a 
din  they  have  for  the  purpose.  About  4  o'clock  we 
•enewed  our  journey,  and  went  two  miles  to  another  small 
tillage,  through  a  beautiful  rich  plain,  in  which  these 
roots  grow  in  abundance.  We  halted  at  the  second 
tillage  all  night  and  got  some  more  provisions.  About 
lark  a  shower  of  rain  fell. 

Tuesday  24.  The  morning  was  fine,  and  about  nine 
>'clock  we  set  forward  on  our  march  towards  the  river,  all 
>ut  one  man  who  had  gone  back  to  look  for  the  horses 
tnd  another  who  had  remained  at  the  first  village.  Tho 
nen  are  generally  unwell,  owing  to  the  change  of  diet. 
Fhe  valley  is  level  and  lightly  timbered  with  pine  and 
spruce  trees.  The  soil  is  thin  except  in  some  small 
plains,  where  it  is  of  the  first  quality.  The  adjacent 
country  appears  much  the  same;  except  that  on  the  river 
t  is  broken  with  hills  and  some  rocks.  In  the  valley 
;here  are  great  quantities  of  service-berry  bushes.  In 
;he  evening  we  arrived  at  the  camp  of  our  hunters  on  a 
river  about  100  yards  broad,  a  branch  of  the  Columbia. 
Phe  natives  say  it  is  two  days  march  to  the  great  river. 
We  encamped  on  a  small  island  with  our  hunters  who 
had  killed  five  deer,  which  was  a  very  pleasing  circum- 
stance to  us;  as  the  Indian  provisions  did  not  agree  with 
us.  Captain  Clarke  gave  all  the  sick  a  dose  of  Rush's 
Pills,  to  see  what  effect  that  would  have.  We  found 
some  of  the  natives  here  upon  the  river  fishing. 

Wednesday  25.      A   fine,   pleasant,  warm   morning. 


134  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

The  hunters  went  out  early  and  Captain  Clarke  rode  out 
to  see  if  there  were  any  trees  to  be  found  large  enough 
for  canoes.  The  men  in  general  appear  to  be  getting 
much  better;  but  Captain  Lewis  is  very  sick  and  talcing 
medicine;  and  myself  and  two  or  three  of  the  men  are 
yet  very  unwell.  The  climate  here  is  warm ;  and  the 
heat  to  day  was  as  great  as  we  had  experienced  at  any 
time  during  the  summer.  The  water  also  is  soft  and 
warm,  and  perhaps  causes  our  indisposition  more  than 
any  thing  else.  In  the  evening  Captain  Clarke  returned 
to  camp,  having  discovered  a  place  about  five  or  six  miles 
down  the  river,  where  a  large  branch  comes  in  on  the 
north  side  that  will  furnish  timber  large  enough  for  our 
purpose.  Our  hunters  also  came  in,  and  had  killed 
nothing  but  a  small  panther  and  a  pheasant.  The  man 
who  had  remained  at  the  first  village  came  up. 

Thursday  26.  The  morning  was  fine ;  and  at  9  o'clock 
we  left  our  camp;  proceeded  down  the  river  about  five 
miles  to  the  forks;  and  pitched  our  camp  in  a  handsome 
small  bottom  opposite  the  point.  A  number  of  the 
natives  came  down  in  small  canoes,  and  encamped  close 
to  us,  for  the  purpose  of  fishing;  and  while  we  were 
encamping  we  saw  a  small  raft  coming  down  the  north 
fork  loaded  with  fish.  There  appears  to  be  a  kind  of 
sheep  in  this  country,  besides  the  Ibex  or  mountain  sheep, 
andjwhich  have  wool  on.  I  saw  some  of  the  skins, 
which  the  natives  had,  with  wool  four  inches  long,  and  as 
fine,  white  and  soft  as  any  I  had  ever  seen.  I  also  saw 
a  buffalo  robe  with  its  wool  or  fur  on  as  fine  and  soft  as 
that  of  a  beaver.  Captain  Lewis  procured  this,  which 
we  considered  a  curiosity,  in  exchange  for  another  buffalo 
robe. 

This  band  of  the  Flatheads  have  a  great  many  beads 
and  other  articles,  which  they  say  they  got  from  white 
men  at  the  mouth  of  this  river;  or  where  the  salt  water  is. 
They  have  a  large  stock  of  horses.  Their  buffalo  robes 
and  other  skins  they  chiefly  procure  on  the  Missouri, 
when  they  go  over  to  hunt,  as  there  are  no  buffalo  in  this 
part  of  the  country  and  very  little  other  game.  The 
most  of  the  men  of  this  band  are  at  present  on  a  war 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  135 

expedition  against  some  nation  to  the  northwest,  that  had 
killed  some  of  their  people ;  as  we  understood  in  our  im- 
perfect communications  with  thorn.  We  arranged  our 
camp  and  made  preparations  for  malting  canoes. 

Friday  27.  A  fine  warm  morning.  All  the  men,  who 
were  able  were  employed  in  making  canoes.  About  10 
o'clock  the  man  came  in  who  had  gone  to  look  for  the 
horses,  he  had  found  one  of  them  and  killed  a  deer. 
I  feel  much  relieved  from  my  indisposition. 

In  the  evening  the  greater  part  of  the  war  party  came 
in,  and  some  of  the  principal  men  came  down  to  our 
camp.  We  could  not  understand  what  they  had  done, 
as  we  could  only  converse  by  signs.  Medals  were  given 
by  the  Commanding  Officers,  to  throe  or  four  of  them  as 
leading  men  of  their  nation;  and  they  remained  about 
our  camp.  The  river  below  the  fork  is  about  200  yards 
wide;  the  water  is  clear  as  chrystal,  from  two  to  five  feet 
deep,  and  abounding  with  salmon  of  an  excellent  quality. 
The  bottom  of  the  river  is  stony  and  ihe  banks  chiefly 
composed  of  a  round  hard  species  of  stone. 

Saturday  28.  We  had  a  pleasant  morning  and  all 
hands,  that  were  able,  employed  at  the  canoes.  Game  is 
very  scarce  and  our  hunters  unable  to  kill  any  meat.  We 
are  therefore  obliged  to  live  on  fish  and  roots,  that  we 
procure  from  the  natives;  and  which  do  not  appear  a  sui- 
table diet  for  us.  Salt  also  is  scarce  without  which  fish 
is  but  poor  and  insipid.  Our  hunters  killed  nothing  to 
day. 

Sunday  29.  A  fine  day;  all  our  hunters  went  out,  and 
all  the  men  able  to  work,  were  employed  at  tho  Canoes. 
At  noon  two  of  our  hunters  came  in  with  three  deer;  a 
very  welcome  sight  to  the  most  of  us.  Five  or  six  of  the 
men  continue  unwell. 

Monday  30.  The  weather  continued  pleasant;  and 
our  hunters  killed  a  deer. 

Tuesday,  October  1,  1805.  This  was  a  fine  pleasant 
warm  day.  All  the  men  are  now  able  to  work ;  but  the 
greater  number  are  very  weak.  To  save  them  from 
hard  labor,  we  have  adopted  the  Indian  method  of  burning 
out  the  canoes. 


136      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

Wednesday  2.  Two  men  were  sent  to  the  Indian 
village  to  purchase  some  provisions  as  our  hunters  do  not 
kill  enough  for  us  to  subsist  on.  And  least  the  Indian 
provisions  should  not  agree  with  us,  we  killed  one  of  our 
horses, 

On  the  third,  the  men  were  employed  as  usual;  on  the 
morning  of  the  fourth  there  was  a  white  frost,  after  it  a 
fine  day.  In  the  evening  our  men  returned,  with  a  good 
supply  of  such  provisions  as  the  natives  have. 

Saturday  5.  Having  got  pretty  well  forward  in  our 
canoe  making,  we  collected  all  our  horses  and  branded 
them,  in  order  to  leave  them  with  the  Indians,  the  old 
chief  having  promised  that  they  should  be  well  taken 
care  of.  In  the  evening  we  got  two  of  our  canoes  into  the 
water. 

During  the  sixth  most  of  the  hands  were  engaged  at  the 
other  canoes;  and  we  buried  our  saddles  and  some  am- 
munition. The  morning  of  ths  soventh  was  pleasant,  and 
we  put  the  last  of  our  canoes  into  the  water;  loaded  them, 
and  found  that  they  carried  all  our  baggage  with  conven- 
ience. We  had  four  large  ones;  and  one  small  one,  to 
look  ahead.  About  3  o'clock  in  tho  afternoon  we  began 
our  voyags  down  the  river,  and  found  the  rapids  in  some 
places  very  dangerous.  One  of  our  canoes  sprung  a  leak. 
We  therafore  halted  and  mended  her,  after  going  20 
miles.  The  hills  come  close  on  the  river  on  both  sides; 
where  there  are  a  few  pine  trees.  Back  from  the  river 
the  tops  of  the  hills,  to  a  great  distance  are  prairie  land; 
and  the  country  level. 

Tuesday  8.  At  9  o'clock  in  a  fine  morning  we  con- 
tinued our  voyage  down  the  river:  passed  three  islands 
and  several  rapids;  and  at  noon  stopped  at  some  Indian 
lodges,  of  which  there  are  a  great  many  along  the  river. 
At  two  we  proceeded  on  again.  In  the  evening,  in  pass- 
ing through  a  rapid,  I  had  my  canoe  stove,  and  she  sunk. 
Fortunately  the  water  was  not  more  than  waist  deep,  so 
our  lives  and  baggage  were  saved,  though  the  latter  was 
wet.  We  halted  and  encamped  here  to  repair  the  canoe, 
after  coming  18  miles.  At  this  place  there  are  some  lod- 
ges of  the  natives  on  both  sides  of  the  river;  a  number  of 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  137 

whom  keep  about  us,  and  we  get  some  fish  from  them. 
Two  chiefs  of  the  upper  village  joined  us  here,  and  pro- 
posed to  go  on  with  us,  until  we  should  meet  with  white 
people;  which  they  say  will  be  at  no  great  distance. 

Wednesday  9.  We  stayed  here  during  the  whole  of  this 
day,  which  was  very  pleasant,  and  repaired  our  canoe. 
In  the  evening  we  got  her  completed  and  all  the  baggage 
dry.  Here  our  old  Snake  guide  deserted  and  took  his 
son  with  him.  I  suspect  he  was  afraid  of  being  cast 
away  passing  the  rapids.  At  dark  one  of  the  squaws, 
who  keep  about  us,  took  a  crazy  fit,  and  cut  her  arms  from 
the  wrists  to  the  shoulders,  with  a  flint;  and  the  natives 
had  great  trouble  and  difficulty  in  getting  her  pacified. 
We  have  some  Frenchmen,  who  prefer  dog-flesh  to  fish ; 
and  they  here  got  two  or  three  dogs  from  the  Indians. 
All  the  country  around  is  high  prairie,  or  open  plains. 

Thursday  10.  We  had  a  fine  morning;  embarked 
early,  and  passed  over  some  very  bad  rapids.  In  passing 
over  one,  a  canoe  sprung  a  leak,  but  did  not  sink;  though 
the  greater  part  of  the  loading  was  wet;  and  we  had  to 
halt  and  dry  it.  We  stopped  a  short  distance  above  the 
junction  of  this  with  another  large  river.  The  natives 
call  this  eastern  branch  Koos-koos-ke,  and  the  western 
Ki-mo-ee-nem.  Yesterday  evening  I  had  a  fit  of  the 
ague,  and  have  been  very  unwell  to  day;  so  much  so  that 
1  am  unable  to  steer  my  canoe.  In  about  two  hours  we 
continued  our  voyage  again.;  we  found  the  southwest 
branch  very  large,  and  of  a  goslin-green  color.  About  a 
mile  below  the  confluence  we  halted  on  the  north  side 
and  encamped  for  the  night,  as  the  wind  blew  so  hard  we 
could  not  proceed.  We  came  20  miles  to  day. 

Friday  11.  We  set  out  early  in  a  fine  morning;  pro- 
ceeded on  about  six  miles,  and  halted  at  some  lodges  of 
the  natives,  where  we  got  fish  and  several  dogs.  We 
continued  here  about  an  hour  and  then  went  on.  No 
accident  happened  to  day  though  we  passed  some  bad 
rapids.  In  the  evening  we  stopped  at  some  Indian  camps 
and  remained  all  night,  having  come  30  miles.  Here  we 
got  more  fish  and  dogs.  Most  of  our  people  having 
been  accustomed  to  meat,  do  not  relish  the  fish,  but  pre- 


138  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

fer  dog  meat;  which,  when  well  cooked,  tastes  very  well, 
Here  we  met  an  Indian  of  another  nation,  who  informed 
us  we  could  get  to  the  falls  in  four  days:  which  I  presume 
are  not  very  high  as  the  salmon  come  above  them  in 
abundance.  The  country  on  both  sides  is  high  dry 
prairie  plains  without  a  stick  of  timber.  There  is  no 
wood  of  any  kind  to  be  seen  except  a  few  small  willows 
along  the  shore ;  so  that  it  is  with  difficulty  we  can  get 
enough  to  cook  with.  The  hills  on  the  river  are  not  very 
high,  but  rocky;  the  rocks  of  a  dark  color.  The  bed 
and  shores  of  the  river  are  very  stony ;  and  the  stones  of 
a  round  smooth  kind. 

Saturdry  12.  We  had  a  fine  morning  and  proceeded 
on  early.  Two  of  the  Flathead  chiefs  remained  on 
board  with  us,  and  two  of  their  men  went  with  the 
stranger  in  a  small  canoe,  and  acted  as  pilots  or  guides. 
We  saw  some  ducks  and  a  few  geese,  but  did  not  kill  any 
of  them.  There  is  no  four  footed  game  of  any  kind 
near  this  part  of  the  river,  that  we  could  discover;  and 
we  saw  no  birds  of  any  kind,  -but  a  few  hawks,  eagles 
and  crows.  At  noon  we  halted,  cooked  and  eat  some 
fish,  and  then  proceeded  on.  The  country  and  river  this 
day  is  much  the  same  in  appearance  as  that  we  passed 
yesterday.  A  little  before  sunset  we  came  to  a  bad  rapid, 
which  we  did  not  wish  to  pass  at  night,  so  we  encamped 
above  on  the  north  side,  having  made  30  miles. 

Some  of  the  Flathead  nation  of  Indians  live  all  along 
the  river  this  far  down.  There  are  not  more  than  four 
lodges  in  a  place  or  village,  and  these  small  camps  or 
villages  are  eight  or  ten  miles  apart:  at  each  camp  there 
are  five  or  six  small  canoes.  Their  summer  lodges  are 
made  of  willows  and  flags,  and  their  winter  lodges  of 
split  pine,  almost  like  rails,  which  they  bring  down  on 
rafts  to  this  .part  of  the  river  where  there  is  no  timber. 

Sunday  13.  This  was  a  cloudy  wet  morning,  and  we 
did  not  set  out  till  1 1  o'clock:  we  then  proceeded  with 
two  canoes  at  a  time  over  the  rapids,  which  are  about  two 
miles  in  length ;  and  in  about  two  hours  got  all  over  safe. 
We  then  went  on  again  and  passed  more  bad  rapids,  but 
got  through  safe.  In  the  afternoon  the  weather  cleared 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  139 

and  we  had  a  fine  evening.  Having  gone  23  miles  we 
encamped  on  the  North  side.  The  country  continues 
much  the  same,  all  high  dry  prairie.  One  handsome 
creek  comes  in  on  the  south  side. 

Monday  14.  We  embarked  early  in  a  fine  clear  cool 
morning;  passed  some  rapids;  and  at  eleven  came  to  one 
very  bad,  but  we  got  over  without  injury.  We  saw  some 
geese  and  ducks  this  forenoon  and  killed  some  of  the 
ducks.  About  1  o'clock  a  canoe  hit  a  rock,  and  part  of 
her  sunk,  and  a  number  of  the  things  floated  out.  With 
the  assistance  of  the  other  canoes  all  the  men  got  safe  to 
shore;  but  the  baggage  was  wet,  and  some  articles  were 
lost.  We  halted  on  an  island  to  dry  the  baggage,  having 
come  14  miles. 


CHAPTEE  XIV. 

Tuesday  15.  This  day  was  fine,  clear  and  pleasant;  and 
we  continued  here  until  the  afternoon  to  dry  our  baggage 
that  had  been  wet  yesterday.  The  natives  have  great 
quantities  of  fish  deposited  on  this  island*  *  At  3  o'clock 
P.  M.  we  got  all  our  effects  on  board  and  proceeded  on. 
Passed  down  a  beautiful  part  of  the  river ;  and  killed  some 
geese  and  ducks.  This  river  in  general  is  very  handsome, 
except  at  the  rapids,  where  it  is  risking  both  life  and  pro- 
perty to  pass;  and  even  these  rapids,  when  the  bare  view 
or  prospect  is  considered  distinct  from  the  advantages  of 

*  Immense  numbers  of  salmon  must  ascend  the  western  rivers 
every  summer  from  the  Pacific,  and  constitute  a  chief  article  in 
the  food  of  the  natives.  Mr.  M'Kenzie  informs  us  that  in  the  river, 
by  which  he  arrived  at  the  ocean,  where  it  empties  itself  four  or  five 
hundred  miles  northwest  of  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  the 
salmon  are  so  abundant,  that  the  natives  have  a  constant  and  plen- 
tiful supply  of  that  excellent  fish.  He  also  on  his  return  states, 
under  the  date  of  the  6th  and  7th  of  August,  that  the  salmon  in 
the  waters  of  the  Columbia  were  driving  up  the  current  in  such 
large  shoals,  that  the  water  seemed  to  be  covered  with  the  fins  of 
them. 


140  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

navigation,  may  add  to  its  beauty,  by  interposing  variety 
and  scenes  of  romantic  grandeur  where  there  is  so  much 
uniformity  in  the  appearance  of  the  country.  We  went 
18  miles  this  evening  and  halted  at  an  old  Indian  camp 
on  the  north  side,  where  we  had  great  difficulty  in  procur- 
ing wood  to  cook  with,  as  none  at  all  grows  in  this  part 
of  the  country. 

Wednesday  16.  We  had  a  fine  morning  and  embark- 
ed early;  proceeded  on  about  three  miles,  when  one  of 
our  canoes  run  upon  some  rocks  in  a  rapid,  but  by 
unloading  another  canoe  and  sending  it  to  her  assistance, 
we  got  all  safe  to  land,  and  then  continued  our  voyage. 
About  1  o'clock  we  came  to  another  rapid,  where  all 
hands  carried  a  load  of  the  baggage  by  land  about  a  mile, 
and  then  took  the  canoes  over  the  rapids,  two  at  a  time, 
and  in  that  way  we  got  them  all  down  safe  and  proceeded 
on.  Having  gone  21  miles  we  arrived  at  the  great 
Columbia  river,  which  comes  in  from  the  northwest.  * 
We  found  here  a  number  of  natives,  of  whose  nations 
we  have  not  yet  found  out  the  names.  We  encamped 
on  the  point  between  the  two  rivers.  The  country  all 
round  is  level,  rich  and  beautiful,  but  without  timber. 

*  The  size,  course  and  appearance  of  this  great  river,  seem  to  con- 
firm beyond  a  doubt  the  opinion  of  Mr.  M'Kenzie,  who  supposed 
that  the  large  river,  into  which  the  branch  he  descended  on  the  west 
side  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  having  its  source  in  these  mountains 
near  that  of  the  Unjigah  or  Peace  river,  discharges  its  waters  into 
the  large  river  in  latitude  about  54°  north,  and  longitude  122°  west 
from  London,  or  47°  west  from  Philadelphia,  was  the  Columbia. 
The  information  he  obtained  from  the  Indians  respecting  this  river 
before  he  left  the  Unjigah  was,  "that  it  was  a  large  river  and  run 
towards  the  mid-day  sun;  but  did  not  empty  itself  into  the  sea." 
This  opinion  of  these  natives  at  a  distance,  with  respect  to  its  not 
emptying  itself  into  the  sea,  must  have  arisen  chiefly  from  what 
they  had  heard  of  its  course,  which  is  east  of  south  and  nearly  par- 
allel to  the  coast  of  the  Pacific,  and  of  the  great  distance  it  contin- 
ued to  run  in  that  direction.  The  accounts  he  received  after  arriv- 
ing at  it,  there  called  the  Great  river,  or  Tacoutche  Tesse,  also  stated 
that  it  ran  towards  the  mid-day  sun;  and  that  at  its  mouth,  as  the 
natives  said  they  had  been  informed,  white  people  were  building 
houses.  Mr.  M'Kenzie  having  descended  the  river  some  distance, 
prevailed  on  a  chief  to  delineate  a  sketch  of  the  country  on  a  large 
piece  of  barkj  in  which  he  described  the  river  as  running  to  the 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  141 

Thursday  17.  We  remained  here  all  day  for  the 
purpose  of  taking  an  observation.  We  got  a  number  of 
dogs  from  the  natives.  Salmon  are  very  plenty  but  poor 
and  dying,  and  therefore  not  fit  for  provisions.  In  the 
plains  are  a  great  many  hares  and  a  number  of  fowls, 
between  the  size  of  a  pheasant  and  turkey,  called  heath 
hens  or  grous.  We  killed  a  great  many  of  these  fowls 
which  are  very  good  eating.  The  small  river,  which  we 
called  Flathead  and  afterwards  Clarke's  river,  is  a  branch 
of  the  Great  Columbia,  and  running  a  northwest  course, 
falls  into  it  a  considerable  distance  above  this  place ;  we 
therefore  never  passed  the  mouth  of  that  river. 

The  Columbia  here  is  860  yards  wide,  and  the 
Ki-moo-ee-nem  (called  Lewis's  river  from  its  junction 
with  the  Koos-koos-ke)  475  yards.  They  are  both  very 
low  at  this  place.  Our  course  since  we  took  water  has 
been  a  few  degrees  south  of  west:  here  the  Columbia 
turns  to  the  east  of  south. 

Friday  18.  This  was  also  a  fine  day  and  we  remained 
here  till  afte.r  12  o'clock.  In  the  forenoon  our  Command- 
ing Officers  were  employed  in  getting  specimens  of  the 
language  of  the  natives,  there  being  three,  or  part  of 
three,  different  nations  here.  They  are  almost  without 

east  of  south,  receiving  many  rivers,  and  every  six  or  eight  leagues, 
encumbered  with  falls  and  rapids,  some  of  them  very  dangerous 
and  six  impracticable.  He  represented  the  carrying  places  as  of 
great  length,  and  passing  over  hills  and  mountains.  He  depicted 
the  lands  of  three  other  tribes  in  succession  who  spoke  different 
languages.  Beyond  them  he  knew  nothing  of  the  river  or  country, 
only  that  it  was  still  a  long  way  to  the  sea;  and  that,  as  he  had 
heard,  there  was  a  lake  before  they  reached  the  water,  which  the 
natives  did  not  drink. 

/'The  more  I  heard  of  the  river,"  says  Mr.  M'Kenzie,  "the  more 
I  was  convinced  it  could  not  empty  itself  into  the  ocean  to  the  north 
of  what  is  called  the  river  of  the  West,  so  that  with  its  windings 
the  distance  must  be  very  great."  It  is  not  improbable  that  the 
distance  by  water,  from  the  place  Mr.  M'Kenzie  struck  this  river, 
to  its  mouth  (supposing  it  to  be  the  Columbia,  Oregon  or  Great 
River  of  the  West,)  is  upwards  of  1000  miles,  and  its  whole  course 
from  its  source  1500.  By  the  lake  mentioned  by  the  Indian  chief 
is  no  doubt  meant  the  bay  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  and  wide 
part  of  the  river  where  the  tide  water  ascends  and  renders  the 
whole  unfit  to  drink. 


142  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

clothing,  having  no  covering  of  any  account,  except 
some  deer  skin  robes  and  a  few  leggins  of  the  same 
materials.  The  women  have  scarce  sufficient  to  cover 
their  nakedness.  Captain  Lewis  had  an  observation  at 
noon,  which  gave  46°  15.  13.  .9.  north  latitude.  At  one 
we  proceeded  on  down  the  Great  Columbia,  which  is  a 
very  beautiful  river.  The  course  is  something  to  the 
east  of  south  for  about  12  miles,  and  then  winds  round  to 
almost  a  west  course.  We  passed  some  islands  and  a 
number  of  the  camps  of  the  natives,  which  appear  to  be 
very  shy  and  distant.  We  went  21  miles  and  halted  close 
below  an  Indian  camp;  where  they  have  thirty  canoes; 
and  a  great  quantity  of  dried  fish. 

Saturday  19.  The  morning  was  clear  and  pleasant, 
with  some  white  frost.  A  number  of  the  natives  came 
to  our  camp,  and  our  Commanding  Officers  presented  one 
of  them  with  a  medal  and  other  small  articles.  At  8 
o'clock  we  proceeded  on;  passed  some  islands  and  bad 
rapids,  but  no  accident  happened.  We  also  passed  a 
great  many  Indian  camps.  In  the  whole  country  around 
there  are  only  level  plains,  except  a  few  hills  on  some 
parts  of  the  river.  We  went  36  miles  and  halted  oppo- 
site a  large  Indian  camp ;  and  about  36  canoe  loads  of 
them  came  over  to  see  us;  some  of  whom  remained  all 
night;  but  we  could  not  have  much  conversation  with 
them  as  we  did  not  understand  their  language.  They 
are  clothed  much  in  the  same  manner  with  those  at  the 
forks  above.  The  custom  prevails  among  these  Indians 
of  burying  all  the  property  of  the  deceased,  with  the 
body.  Amongst  these  savages  when  any  of  them  die, 
his  baskets,  bags,  clothing,  horses  and  other  property  are 
all  interred:  even  his  canoe  is  split  into  pieces  and  set  up 
round  his  grave. 

Sunday  20.  A  fine  clear  frosty  morning.  We  set 
out  early;  passed  along  a  handsome  part  of  the  river; 
saw  some  pelicans  and  gulls.  And  as  the  shores  are 
lined  with  dead  salmon,  there  are  abundance  of  crows 
and  ravens.  Vast  quantities  of  these  fish  die  at  this  time 
of  the  year.  At  noon  we  came  to  an  Indian  camp  on 
the  point  of  a  large  island ,  where  we  stopped  and  got 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  143 

some  fish  and  other  provisions.  We  here  saw  some  arti- 
cles which  shewed  that  white  people  had  been  here  or 
not  far  distant  during  the  summer.  They  have  a  hem- 
pen seine  ami  some  ash  paddles  which  they  did  not  make 
themselves.  At  1  o'clock  we  proceeded  on  again,  went 
42  miles,  and  encamped  without  any  of  the  natives  being 
along,  which  is  unusual  on  this  river.  We  could  not  get 
a  single  stick  of  wood  to  cook  with;  and  had  only  a  few 
small  green  willows. 

Monday  21.  We  continued  our  voyage*  at  an  early 
hour,  and  had  a  fine  morning.  At  ten,  we  came  to  the 
lodges  of  some  of  the  natives,  and  halted  with  them 
about  two  hours.  Here  we  got  some  bread,  made  of  a 
small  white  root,  which  grows  in  this  part  of  the  country. 
We  saw  among  them  some  small  robes  made  of  the  skins 
of  grey  squirrels,  some  racoon  skins,  and  acorns,  which 
are  signs  of  a  timbered  country  not  far  distant.  Having 
proceeded  on  again,  we  passed  several  more  lodges  of 
Indians;  and  through  two  very  rocky  rapid  parts  of  the 
river  with  great  difficulty.  We  went  32  miles  and 
encamped  at  some  Indian  lodges,  where  we  procured 
wood  from  the  natives  to  cook  with. 

Tuesday  22.  The  morning  was  fine  and  we  went  on 
early,  and  saw  a  great  number  of  ducks,  geese  and  gulls. 
At  10  o'clock  we  came  to  a  large  island,  where  the  river 
has  cut  its  way  through  the  point  of  a  high  hill.  Opposite 
to  this  island  a  large  river  comes  in  on  the  south  side,  called 
by  the  natives  the  Sho-sho-ne  or  Snake-Indian  river;  and 
which  has  large  rapids  close  to  its  mouth.  This,  or  the 
Ki-moo-ee-nem,  is  the  same  river,  whose  head  waters  we 
saw  at  the  Snake  nation. 

The  natives  are  very  numerous  on  the  island  and  all 
along  the  river.  Their  lodges  are  of  bulrushes  and  flags, 
made  into  a  kind  of  mats,  and  formed  into  a  hut  or  lodge. 

About  three  miles  lower  down  we  came  to  the  first  falls 
or  great  rapids;  and  had  1300  yards  of  a  portage  over  bad 
ground.  All  our  baggage  was  got  over  this  evening  and 
we  encamped  with  it;  but  are  not  certain  whether  we  can 
take  our  canoes  by  water.  Our  voyage  to  day,  to  th  e 
head  of  the  rapids  or  falls  was  18  miles. 


144  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

Wednesday  23.  A  pleasant  day.  At  9  o'clock  in 
the  forenoon  all  hands,  but  three  left  to  keep  camp,  went 
up  and  took  the  canoes  over  to  the  south  side;  as  the 
natives  said  that  was  the  best  side  of  the  river  to  take 
them  down.  Here  we  had  to  drag  them  450  yards  round 
the  first  pitch  which  is  20  feet  perpendicular.  We  then 
put  them  into  the  water  and  let  them  down  the  rest  of 
the  way  by  cords.  The  whole  height  of  the  falls  is  37 
feet  eight  inches,  in  a  distance  of  1200  yards.  In  the 
evening  we  got  all  our  canoes  safe  down  to  the  encamp- 
ment on  the  north  side.  The  natives  are  very  numerous 
about  these  falls,  as  it  is  a  great  fishing  place  in  the  spring 
of  the  year.  The  country  on  both  sides  of  the  river 
here  is  high,  and  the  bluffs  rocky.  Captain  Lewis  had 
an  observation,  which  made  the  latitude  of  this  place  45° 
42.  57.  3.  North.  We  got  several  dogs  from  these 
Indians,  which  we  find  strong  wholesome  diet.  The 
high  water  mark  below  the  falls  is  48  feet,  and  above  only 
10  feet  four  inches  from  the  surface  of  the  water:  so  that 
in  high  water  there  is  nothing  but  a  rapid,  and  the  salmon 
can  pass  up  without  difficulty.  The  reason  of  this  rise 
in  the  water  below  the  falls  is,  that  for  three  miles  down, 
the  river  is  so  confined  by  rocks  (being  not  more  than  70 
yards  wide)  that  it  cannot  discharge  the  water,  as  fast  as 
it  comes  over  the  falls,  until  what  is  deficient  in  breadth 
is  made  up  in  depth.  About  the  great  pitch  the  appear- 
ance of  the  place  is  terrifying,  with  vast  rocks,  and  the 
river  below  the  pitch,  foaming  through  different  channels. 

Thursday  24.  We  had  a  fine  morning  and  proceed- 
ed on  early;  found  the  water  very  rapid  below  the  falls; 
and  having  gone  four  miles  below  the  narrows,  came  to 
other  narrows  still  more  confined  and  the  rocks  higher. 
At  the  head  of  these  narrows  we  halted  about  2  o'clock 
at  a  great  Indian  village,  and  remained  there  all  night. 
We  got  fish  and  dogs  from  the  natives,  and  some  berries, 
different  from  any  we  got  before,  some  call  them  cran- 
berries ;  whether  of  the  real  kind  or  not  I  am  not  certain. 
In  our  way  down  to  day  we  saw  a  great  many  sea  otters 
swimming  in  the  river,  and  killed  some,  but  could  not  get 
them  as  they  sunk  to  the  bottom.  This  village  has  better 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  145 

lodges  than  any  on  the  river  above;  one  story  of  which 
is  sunk  under  ground  a^d  lined  with  flag  mats:  The 
upper  part  about  4  feet  above  ground  is  covered  over 
with  cedar  bark,  and  they  are  tolerably  comfortable 
houses. 

Friday  25.  We  found  there  were  bad  rapids  in  the 
narrows  and  therefore  carried  over  part  of  our  baggage 
by  land,  about  three  quarters  of  a  mile;  and  then  took 
the  canoes  over,  one  at  a  time.  In  going  over  one  of 
them  filled  with  water,  on  account  of  which  we  were 
detained  three  hours.  The  rapids  continued  three  or 
four  miles,  when  the  river  became  more  placid.  At 
night  we  came  to  a  place  where  there  is  a  considerable 
quantity  of  timber  on  the  hills;  both  oak  and  pine,  and 
encamped  at  the  mouth  of  a  creek  on  the  south  side. 
The  natives  about  here  are,  or  pretend  to  be,  very  uneasy, 
and  say  the  Indians  below  will  kill  us,  We  purchased 
from  them  a  quantity  of  dried  pounded  fish,  which  they 
had  prepared  in  that  way  for  sale.  They  have  six  scaf- 
folds of  a  great  size  for  the  purpose  of  drying  their  fish 
on. 

Saturday  26.  A  fine  morning.  We  hauled  up  all 
our  canoes  to  dress  and  repair  them,  as  they  had  been 
injured  in  parsing  over  ths  portage,  round  the  falls.  Some 
hunters  went  out  and  killed  six  deer  and  some  squirrels. 
In  the  afternoon  about  20  of  the  natives  came  to  our 
camp  (among  whom  were  the  head  chiefs  of  the  two 
villages  about  the  falls,)  who  had  been  out  hunting  when 
we  passed  down.  The  Commanding  Officers  gave  medals 
to  the  chiefs,  and  some  other  small  articles;  and  they 
appeared  satisfied  and  some  remained  with  us  all  night. 

Sunday  27.  This  was  a  fine  clear  morning,  but  the 
wind  blew  very  hard  up  the  river,  and  we  remained  here 
all  day.  This  is  the  first  hunting  ground  we  have  had 
for  a  long  time,  and  some  of  our  men  went  out.  Part  of 
the  natives  remained  with  us;  but  we  cannot  find  out  to 
what  nation  they  belong.  We  suppose  thorn  to  ba  a  band 
of  the  Flathead  nation,  as  all  their  heads  are  compressed 
into  the  same  form;  though  they  do  not  speak  exactly  the 
same  language,  but  there  is  no  great  difference,  and  this 
10 


146      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

may  bo  a  dialect  of  the  same*  This  singular  and  deform- 
ing operation  is  performed  in  infancy  in  the  following 
manner.  A  piece  of  board  is  placed  against  the  back  of 
ihe  head  extending  from  the  shoulders  some  distance 
above  it;  another  shorter  piece  extends  from  the  eye 
brows  to  the  top  of  the  first,  and  they  are  then  bound 
together  with  thongs  or  cords  made  of  skins,  so  as  to 
press  back  the  forehead,  make  the  head  rise  at  the  top, 
and  force  it  out  above  the  ears.  In  the  evening  our  hun- 
ters came  in  and  had  killed  four  deer  and  some  squirrels. 
The  wind  blew  hard  all  this  day. 

Monday  28,  Just  before  day  light  there  was  a  shower 
of  rain;  but  at  sunrisj  the  morning  was  fine  and  clear. 
At  8  o'clock  we  embarked,  went  about  four  miles,  and 
halted  at  a  small  village  of  the  natives  and  got  some  dogs 
from  them*  Here  we  stayed  about  an  hour  and  proceed- 
ed on  again  for  about  a  mile,  when  we  were  compelled 
to  stop  on  account  of  the  wind,  which  blew  so  hard  ahead 
that  we  were  unable  to  continue  our  voyage.  In  the 
course  of  the  day  there  were  some  showers  of  rain. 
In  the  evening  one  of  the  men  went  out  and  killed  a 
fine  deer.  W  e  were  in  a  good  safe  harbor  and  remained 
thoro  all  night,  accompanied  by  the  natives. 

Tuesday  29.  We  embarked  early  in  a  cloudy  morn- 
ing; passed  high  hills  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  on  which 
there  was  pine  timbar;  and  some  birch  on  the  banks  of 
the  river.  At  breakfast  time  we  stopt  at  a  small  village 
of  tlio  natives  and  purchased  some  more  dogs:  then  pro- 
ceeded on;  passed  a  number  more  Indian  camps,  and  a 
high  mountainous  country  on  both  sides.  In  the  evening 
we  discovered  a  high  mountain  to  the  south,  not  more 
than  five  miles  off,  covered  with  snow.  We  have  here 
still  water;  arid  the  breadth  of  the  river  is  from  three 
quarters  to  a  mile.  We  went  23  miles  and  encamped  at 
a  small  village  on  the  north  side. 

\Vednesday  30.  The  morning  was  cloudy,;  the  river 
and  country  we  found  much  the  same  as  yesterday.  At 
noon  we  stopped,  to  dine  and  one  of  the  men  went  out 
and  killed  a  largs  buck.  A  number  of  fine  springs  come 
down  the  hills  on  the  South  side;  and  we  passed  a  small 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  147 

river  on  the  north.  In  the  evening  we  came  to  the  head 
of  falls,  where  there  is  a  large  Indian  village.  On  our 
way  down  we  saw  a  great  many  swans,  geese  and  ducks; 
and  a  number  of  sea  otter.  There  are  some  small  bot- 
toms along  the  river,  with  cotton  wood  on  them,  and  on 
the  banks  of  the  river  some  white  oak,  ash  and  hazlenut. 
At  a  distance  there  are  ponds  which  abound  with  geese 
and  ducks.  It  rained  hard  all  day,  and  we  came  only 
15  miles, 

Thursday  31.  The  morning  was  cloudy.  We  unload- 
ed our  canoes  and  took  them  past  the  rapids,  some  part 
of  the  way  by  water,  and  some  over  rocks  8  or  10  feet 
high.  It  was  the  most  fatiguing  business  we  have  been 
engaged  in  for  a  long  time,  and  we  got  but  two  over  all 
day,  the  distance  about  a  mile,  and  the  fall  of  the  water 
about  25  feet  in  that  distance. 

Friday,  November  1,  1805.  We  had  a  cool  frosty 
morning.  We  carried  down  our  baggage  before  break- 
fast as  we  could  not  go  into  the  water,  without  uneasiness 
on  account  of  the  cold.  In  the  forenoon  we  took  down 
the  other  two  canoes.  A  number  of  the  natives  with 
four  canoes  joined  us  here  from  above.  Their  canoes 
were  loaded  with  pounded  salmon,  which  they  were 
taking  down  the  river  to  barter  for  beads  and  other 
articles. 

Saturday  2.  There  is  here  a  small  rapid  below  the 
falls,  where  the  men  had  to  carry  part  of  the  baggage 
across  a  portage  of  two  miles  and  a  half,  while  the  res  t 
took  down  the  canoes.  At  12  o'clock  we  proceeded  on 
again;  passed  a  narrow  rapid  part  of  the  river  of  about 
eight  miles,  the  hills  on  both  sides  are  very  high,  and  a 
number  of  fine  springs  flowing  out  of  them,  some  of 
which  fall  200  feet  perpendicular.  The  hills  are  mostly 
solid  rocks.  On  our  way  we  passed  two  Indian  lodges. 
At  the  end  of  eight  miles,  the  river  opens  to  the  breadth 
of  a  mile,  with  a  gentle  current.  We  came  23  miles, 
and  encamped  at  a  high  peak  resembling  a  tower  on  the 
south  side.  The  country  here  becomes  level,  and  the 
river  broader.  One  of  the  Indian  canoes  remained  with 
us  and  the  other  three  went  on.  On  our  way  and  at 
camp  we  killed  17  geese  and  brants. 


148  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

Sunday  3.  The  morning  was  foggy:  one  of  the  men 
went  out  and  killed  a  fine  buck.  At  nine  we  proceeded 
on,  but  could  not  see  the  country  we  were  passing,  on 
account  of  the  fog,  which  was  very  thick  till  noon  when 
it  disappeared,  and  we  had  a  beautiful  day.  We  at  that 
time  came  to  the  mouth  of  a  river  on  the  south  side,  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  broad,  but  not  more  than  six  or  eight 
inches  deep,  running  over  a  bar  of  quicksand.  At  this 
place  we  dined  on  venison  and  goose;  and  from  which 
we  can  see  the  high  point  of  a  mountain  covered  with 
snow,  in  about  a  southeast  direction  from  us.  Our  Com- 
manding Officers  are  of  opinion  that  it  is  Mount  Hood, 
discovered  by  a  Lieutenant  of  Vancoover,  who  was  up 
this  river  75  miles.  The  river  that  falls  in  here  has  two 
mouths,  through  which  it  drives  out  a  considerable  quan- 
tity of  sand  into  the  Columbia.  Opposite  the  lower 
mouth  there  is  a  handsome  island.  At  2  o'clock  we  pro- 
ceeded on,  and  passed  another  island.  The  country  on 
both  sides  appears  level  and  closely  timbered:  on  the 
river  the  timber  is  cotton  wood,  maple  and  some  ash; 
and  back  from  it  mostly  spruce  pine.  We  made  13  miles 
and  encamped  on  a  large  island,  in  which  is  a  large  pond 
full  of  swans,  geese  and  ducks.  On  our  way  and  here 
we  killed  some  of  each  kind.  At  night,  Captain  -Lewis 
had  a  small  canoe  carried  over  to  the  pond  in  order  to 
hunt  by  moon  light,  but  the  party  did  not  happen  to  have 
good  luck,  having  killed  only  a  swan  and  three  ducks. 


CHAPTER   XV. 

Monday  4.  A  fine  morning.  We  embarked  early; 
passed  two  large  islands,  and  a  beautiful  part  of  the  river. 
The  tide  raised  the  water  last  night  two  feet.  We  went 
about  seven  miles  and  came  to  a  large  Indian  village, 
where  they  informed  us  that  in  two  days  we  would  come 
to  two  ships  with  white  people  in  them.  The  Indians 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  149 

other  articles  which  they  got  from  these  ships.  We  got 
some  dogs  and  roots  from  the  natives.  The  roots  are  of 
a  superior  quality  to  any  I  had  before  seen:  they  are 
called  whapto;  resemble  apotatoe  when  cooked,  and  are 
about  as  big  as  a  hen  egg.  Game  is  more  plenty  here 
than  up  the  river,  and  one  of  the  men  killed  a  deer  this 
morning.  At  this  camp  of  the  natives  they  have  52 
canoes,  well  calculated  for  riding  waves.  We  proceeded 
on,  and  passed  some  handsome  islands,  and  down  a  beau- 
tiful part  of  the  river.  We  also  passed  a  number  of 
Indian  lodges;  and  saw  a  great  many  swans,  geese,  ducks, 
cranes,  and  gulls.  We  went  28  miles  and  encamped  on 
the  north  side.  In  the  evening  we  saw  Mount  Rainy 
on  the  same  side.  It  is  a  handsome  point  of  a  mountain 
with  little  or  no  timber  on  it,  very  high,  and  a  considera- 
ble distance  off  this  place. 

Tuesday  5.  We  embarked  very  early.  Some  rain  fell 
last  night  about  2  o'clock,  and  the  morning  was  cloudy. 
We  passed  several  handsome  islands,  generally  near  the 
shore,  on  the  one  side  or  the  other  of  the  river. 
The  country  on  both  side  is  somewhat  higher  than 
what  we  passed  yesterday,  and  closely  covered  with 
spruce  timber.  The  bottoms  are  large,  covered  with 
cotton  wood,  maple,  and  the  like  kinds  of  wood.  We 
passed  a  great  many  Indian  camps,  their  lodges  made 
chiefly  of  poles  and  cedar  bark.  At  noon  we  slopped 
about  an  hour  at  an  island,  and  some  of  the  men  went 
out  and  killed  nine  brants  and  a  swan.  Three  of  the 
brants  were  quite  white  except  the  points  of  their  wings, 
which  were  black.  We  proceeded  on  in  the  afternoon, 
during  which  some  rain  and  a  little  hail  fell;  went  31 
miles  and  encamped  on  the  north  side.  Here  the  tide 
rises  and  falls  four  feet. 

Wednesday  6.  We  set  out  early  in  a  cloudy  morning 
after  a  disagreeable  night  of  rain.  Saw  a  number  of 
the  natives,  going  up  and  down  the  river  in  canoes.  Also 
passed  some  of  their  lodges.  The  Indians  in  this  part 
of  the  country  have  but  few  horses,  their  intercourse 
and  business  being  chiefly  by  water.  The  high  land 
here  have  a  great  deal  of  new  cloth  among  them,  and 


150  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

comes  more  close  on  the  river  in  this  part.     Having  gone 
29  miles  we  encamped  on  the  south  side. 

Thursday  7.  We  set  out  again  early  in  a  foggy 
morning;  went  about  six  miles  and  came  to  an  Indian 
camp,  were  we  got  some  fresh  fish  and  dogs.  The  dress 
of  the  squaws  here  is  different  from  that  of  those  up  the 
river;  it  consists  of  a  long  fringe  made  of  soft  bark, 
which  they  tie  round  the  waist,  and  which  comes  down 
almost  to  their  knees;  and  of  a  small  robe,  made  out  of 
small  skins  cut  into  thongs  and  wove  somewhat  like 
carpeting.  We  remained  here  about  two  hours  and  then 
proceeded  on.  At  this  place  the  river  is  about  three 
miles  wide,  with  a  number  of  small  islands,  and  the 
country  broken.  In  the  evening  we  came  to  a  part  of 
the  river,  where  it  is  five  miles  broad.  We  went  34 
miles  and  encamped  on  the  south  side  at  the  mouth  of  a 
fine  spring. 

Friday  8.  We  embarked  early.  The  morning  was 
cloudy,  and  there  was  a  hard  wind  from  the  east.  We 
went  about  five  miles  and  came  to  a  bay  12  or  14  miles 
wide.  We  had  to  coast  round  it,  as  the  wind  raised  the 
waves  so  high  we  could  go  no  other  way.  We  halted  and 
dined  at  a  point  on  the  north  side  of  the  bay  where  a 
small  river  comes  in.  We  again  proceeded  on  coasting, 
till  we  came  to  a  point  of  land  where  the  bay  becomes 
narrower;  and  the  water  quite  salt.  The  waves  here  ran 
so  high  we  were  obligsd  to  lie  to,  and  let  the  tide  leave 
our  canoes  on  dry  ground.  This  point  we  called  Cape 
Swell ;  and  the  bay  above,  Shallow  Bay,  as  there  is  no 
great  depth  of  water.  In  crossing  the  bay  when  the  tide 
was  out,  some  of  our  men  got  sea  sick,  the  swells  were 
so  great.  In  it  there  are  a  great  many  swans,  geese, 
ducks  and  other  water  fowls.  The  whole  of  this  day 
was  wet  and  disagreeable ;  and  the  distance  we  made,  in 
a  strait  line,  was  not  more  than  nine  miles ;  though  the 
distance  we  coasted  was  above  20  miles. 

Saturday  9.  The  morning  was  windy,  rainy  and  dis- 
agreeable, and  we  were  obliged  to  remain  at  Cape  Swell 
all  day  and  unload  our  canoes  to  prevent  them  from 
sinking;  notwithstanding  some  of  them  did  sink  when 


152      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

the  tide  came  in  at  noon.  We  had  no  fresh  water, 
except  what  rain  we  caught  by  putting  out  our  vessels. 
We  remained  here  all  night,  and  the  rain  continued. 

Sunday  10.  We  had  a  rainy  morning,  but  the  wind 
was  not  so  high  as  it  had  been  yesterday;  and  we  set  out 
from  Cape  Swell,  coasted  along  for  eight  miles,  passed 
some  high  cliffs  of  sandy  rocks,  and  then  came  a  point; 
where  we  found  the  swells  so  high,  the  wind  having 
risen,  that  we  could  not  proceed:  so  we  had  to  return 
back  about  a  mile  to  get  a  safe  harbor.  Here  we  dined  on 
some  pounded  salmon,  that  we  had  procured  from  the 
Indians;  and  unloaded  our  canoes.  After  we  had  been 
here  about  two  hours,  it  became  more  calm  and  we  loaded 
the  cano3s  again,  but  could  not  get  round  the  point,  the 
swells  were  still  so  high;  we  therefore  put  too  at  a  branch 
of  fresh  water,  under  high  cliffs  of  rocks  and  unloaded 
again.  Hera  we  had  scarcely  room  to  lie  between  the 
rocks  and  water;  but  we  made  shift  to  do  it  among  some 
drift  wood  that  had  baen  beat  up  by  the  tide, '  It  rained 
hard  all  night  and  was  very  disagreeable.  While  on  our 
way  down  to  day  ws  saw  some  porpoises,  sea  otter  and  a 
great  many  sea  gulls.  The  water  is  become  very  salt. 

Monday  11.  The  morning  was  very  wet  and  the 
wind  still  blowing,  so  that  we  could  not  proceed;  we  there- 
fore built  Iarg3  fires  and  mad?  our  situation  as  comforta- 
ble as  possible,  but;  still  bad  enough,  as  we  have  no  tents, 
or  covering  to  defend  us,  except  our  blankets  and  some 
mats  we  got  from  the  Indians,  which  we  put  on  poles  to 
keep  off  i be  rain.  It  continued  raining  and  blowing  all 
day;  and  at  4  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  the  tide  was  so 
high  that  we  had  to  leave  our  lodges,  until  it  got  lower 
in  the  evening.  Some  of  the  men  went  about  40  perches 
up  the  rivar  and  caught  15  fine  Iarg3  fish. 

Tuesday  12.  A  cloudy  wet  morning,  after  a  terrible 
night  of  rain,  hail,  thunder  and  lightning.  We  thought 
it  best  to  move  our  camp,  and  fixed  our  canoes  and  load- 
ed them  with  stones  to  keep  them  down.  We  went  about 
the  eighth  of  a  mile  from  this  place,  and  fixed  ourselves 
as  well  as  we  could,  and  remained  all  night.  The  rain 
still  continued,  and  the  river  remained  very  rough. 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  153 

Wednesday  13.  This  was  another  disagreeable  rainy 
day,  and  we  remained  at  camp  being  unable  to  get  away. 
At  9  o'clock  in  the  forenoon  it  became  a  little  more  calm 
than  usual;  and  three  men  took  a  canoe,  which  we  got 
from  the  Indians  of  a  kind  excellent  for  riding  swells, 
and  set  out  to  go  to  the  point  on  the  sea  shore,  to  ascer- 
tain whether  there  were  any  white  people  there,  or  if 
they  were  gone. 

Thursday  14.  We  expected  last  night  to  have  been 
able  to  proceed  on  this  morning,  but  the  rain  continued, 
and  the  river  still  remained  rough;  and  we  are  therefore 
obliged  to  lie  by.  About  noon  one  of  the  three  men  who 
had  gone  in  the  canoe,  returned  having  broke  the  lock  of 
his  gun:  but  the  other  two  went  on  by  land,  as  the  swells 
ran  so  high  that  they  could  not  possibly  get  the  canoe 
along.  About  the  same  time  some  Indians  in  a  canoe 
came  up  the  river,  and  had  stolen  a  gig  from  the  men; 
but  the  one  we  returned  got  it  from  them  again  when  he 
came  up.  In  the  evening  Captain  Lewis  with  four  men 
started  by  land  to  see  if  any  white  people  were  to  be 
found.  The  rest  remained  in  camp;  and  the  weather 
continued  wet,  and  the  most  disagreeable  I  had  ever  seen. 

Friday  15.  This  morning  the  weather  appeared  to 
settle  and  clear  off,  but  the  river  remained  still  rough. 
So  we  were  obliged  to  continue  here  until  about  1  o'clock, 
when  the  weather  became  more  calm,  and  we  loaded 
and  s^t  out  from  our  disagreeable  camp;  went  about  three 
miles,  when  we  came  to  the  mouth  of  the  river,  where 
it  empties  into  a  handsome  bay.  Here  we  halted  on  a 
sand  beach,  formed  a  comfortable  camp,  remained  in  full 
view  of  the  ocean,  at  this  time  more  raging  than  pacific. 
One  of  the  two  men  who  first  went  out  came  to  us  here, 
the  other  had  joined  Captain  Lewis's  party.  Last  night 
the  Indians  had  stolen  their  arms  and  accoutrements,  but 
restored  them  on  the  arrival  of  Captain  Lewis  and  his 
men  in  the  morning. 

Saturday  16.  This  was  a  clear  morning  and  the  wind 
pretty  high.  We  could  see  the  waves,  like  small  moun- 
tains, rolling  out  on  the  ocean,  and  pretty  bad  in  the  bay. 


154  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 


CHAPTER  XYL 

We  arc?  now  at  the  end  of  our  voyage,  which  has 
been  completely  accomplished  according  to  the  intention 
of  the  expedition,  the  object  of  which  was  to  discover  a 
passage  by  the  way  of  the  Missouri  and  Columbia  rivers 
to  the  Pacific  ocean;  notwithstanding  the  difficulties,  pri- 
vations and  dangers,  which  we  had  to  encounter,  endure 
and  surmount. 

This  morning  five  of  the  men  went  out  to  hunt;  and 
about  3  o'clock  all  cams  in  but  one.  They  had  killed 
two  deer,  nine  brants,  two  geese,  one  crane,  and  three 
ducks.  The  day  being  clear  we  got  all  our  baggage 
dried,  and  in  good  order;  and  quietly  rested  until  Captain 
Lewis  and  his  party  should  return. 

Sunday  17.  We  had  a  fine  pleasant  clear  morning, 
and  six  hunters  went  out.  About  noon  they  all  came  in; 
but  the  hunter  who  remained  out  last  night  did  not  return. 
He  had  killed  two  deer  and  the  other  men  brought  them 
in  with  some  brants  and  a  deer  they  had  killed.  About 
the  same  time  Captain  Lewis,  and  his  party  returned. 
They  had  been  round  the  bay,  and  seen  where  white 
people  had  been  in  the  course  of  'the  summer:  but  they 
had  all  sailed  away.  Captain  Lewis  and  his  party  killed 
a  deer  and  some  brants.  In  the  evening  the  remaining 
hunter  came  in  and  had  killed  another  deer. 

There  are  but  few  Indians  settled  down  about  the 
seashore;  their  dress  is  similar  to  that  of  some  of  those 
above.  The  women  have  a  kind  of  fringe  petticoats, 
made  of  filaments  or  tassels  of  the  white  cedar  bark 
wrought  with  a  string  at  the  upper  part,  which  is  tied 
round  the  waist.  These  tassels  or  fringe  are  of  some 
use  as  a  covering,  while  the  ladies  are  standing  erect  and 
the  weather  calm;  but  in  any  other  position,  or  when 
the  wind  blows,  their  charms  have  but  a  precarious 
defence. 

A  number  of  both  sexes  keep  about  our  camp ;  some 
have  robes  made  of  muskrat  skins  sewed  together,  and 
I  saw  some  of  loon-skins.  Their  diet  is  chiefly  fish  and 
roots. 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  155 

MEMORANDUM. 

Of  the  computed  distance  in  miles  to  the  furtherest  point 
of  discovery  on    the   Pacific  Ocean,   from    the  place 

where  the  canoes  were  deposited  near  the  head  of  the 

Missouri,  which  from  its  mouth  is  3096 
From  the  place  of  deposit  to  head  spring, 

To  first  fork  of  the  Sho-sho-ne  river,  -         14 

To  first  large  fork  down  the  river,  18 

To  forks  of  the  road  at  mouth  of  Tour  creek  -         14 

To  Fishing  creek,  after  leaving  the  river,  23 

To  Flathead,  or  Clarke's  river  at  Fish  camp,  -         41 

To  the  mouth  of  Travelers-rest  creek,  -          76 
To  the  foot  of  the  great  range  of  Mountains, 

east  side,                    ...  12 
To           ditto                 ditto                   ditto 

west  side.                   -             -             -  130 
To  the  Flathead  village  in  a  plain, 

To  the  Koos-koos-ke  river,               -             -  IB 

To  the  Canoe  camp,  at  the  forks,             -  6 

To  the  Ki-moo-ee-nem ,                              -  60 

To  the  Great  Columbia,  by  Lewis's  river,  •       140 

To  the  mouth  of  the  Sho-sho-ne,  or  Snake  river,  162 

To  the  Great  Falls  of  Columbia,  6 

To  the  Short  Narrows,        -                       -  -3 

To  the  Long      ditto                       ...  3 

To  the  mouth  of  Cataract  river,  north  side,  23 

To  the  Grand  Shoot,  or  Rapids,                -  42 

To  the  Last  Rapids,  or  Strawberry  island,  6 

To  the  mouth  of  Quicksand  river,  south  side,  -         26 

To  Shallow  Bay,   at  salt  water,  -       136 

To  Blustry  Point,  on  north  side,               -  -          13 
To  Point  Open-Slope,  below  encampment, 

To  Chin-Ook  river  at  bottom  of  Haley's  Bay,  12 

To  Cape  Disappointment  on  Western  ocean,  13 

To  Capt.  Clarke's  tour  N.  W.  along  coast,  10 

miles  4133 


Monday  18.      The   morning   was   cloudy.      Captain 


156  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

Clarke  and  ten  men  went  down  to  Cape  Disappointment, 
to  get  a  more  full  view  of  the  ocean;  and  three  went  out 
to  hunt.  In  the  course  of  the  day  we  got  some  dried 
salmon  and  roots  from  the  natives.  In  the  evening  our 
hunters  came  in  with  a  deer,  two  brants,  and  a  squirrel, 
a  hawk,  and  a  flounder,  which  the  tide  had  thrown  on  a 
sand  bar.  The  Indians  still  remained  with  us  and  Capt. 
Lewis  got  a  specimen  of  their  language.  Those,  who 
live  about  the  seashores,  and  on  Rogue's  harbor  creek, 
a  large  creek  that  comes  in  on  the  north  side  of  the  bay, 
call  themselves  the  Chin-ook  nation. 

Tuesday  19.  We  had  a  cloudy,  rainy  morning;  but 
some  of  the  hunters  went  out.  About  1  o'clock  the 
natives,  who  had,  been  with  us  some  time,  went  away; 
and  at  four  another  party  of  the  same  nation  came,  and 
encamped  close  by  us.  They  consisted  of  15  men  and 
one  squaw.  The  dress  of  the  squaw  was  the  same  with 
those  of  the  others.  Several  of  the  men  have  robes 
made  of  brant  skins:  one  of  them  had  a  hat  made  of  the 
bark  of  white  cedar  and  beargrass,  very  handsomely 
wrought  and  water  proof.  One  of  our  party  purchased 
it  for  an  old  razor.  Our  hunters  killed  three  deer  to  day. 

Wednesday  20.  We  had  a  fine  clear  morning;  the 
Indians  remained  at  our  camp;  and  Captain  Lewis  gave 
one  of  them  a  medal,  as  he  ranked  as  a  chief  in  the 
nation.  One  of  the  men  went  out  to  hunt  in  the  morn- 
ing, and  in  a  short  time  killed  two  deer.  This  day  con- 
tinued clear  and  pleasant  throughout.  At  4  o'clock  in 
the  afternoon  Captain  Clarke  and  his  party  returned  to 
camp,  and  had  killed  a  deer  and  some  brants,  They 
had  been  about  10  miles  north  of  the  cape,  and  found 
the  country  along  the  seashore  level,  with  spruce-pine 
timber,  and  some  prairies  and  ponds  of  water.  They 
killed  a  remarkably  large  buzzard,  of  a  species  different 
from  any  I  had  seen.  It  was  nine  feet  across  the  wings, 
and  three  feet  10  inches  from  the  bill  to  the  tail.  They 
found  some  pumice  stones,  which  had  been  thrown  out 
by  the  waves,  of  a  quality  superior  to  those  on  the  Mis- 
souri; also  a  number  of  shells  of  different  kinds. 

Thursday  21.     A  cloudy  morning.      About  8  o'clock 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  157 

all  the  natives  left  us.  The  wind  blew  so  violent  to  day, 
and  the  waves  ran  so  high,  that  we  could  not  set  out  on 
our  return,  which  is  our  intention  to  do  as  soon  as  the 
weather  and  water  will  permit.  The  season  being  so  far 
advanced,  we  wish  to  establish  our  winter  quarters  as 
soon  as  possible.  One  of  the  natives  here  had  a  robe 
of  sea-otter  skins,  of  the  finest  fur  I  ever  saw;  which 
the  Commanding  Officers  wanted  very  much,  and  offer- 
ed two  blankets  for  it,  which  the  owner  refused,  and 
said  he  would  not  take  five.  He  wanted  beads  of  a  blue 
color,  of  which  we  had  none,  but  some  that  were  on  a 
belt  belonging  to  our  interpreter's  squaw;  so  they  gave 
him  the  belt  for  the  skins.  In  the  evening  more  of  the 
natives  came  to  our  camp,  and  the  night  was  very  wet 
and  disagreeable. 

Friday  22.  This  was  a  rainy  and  stormy  morning; 
and  we  were  not  yet  able  to  set  out:  the  wind  blew  very 
hard  from  the  south,  and  the  river  was  rougher  than  it 
has  been  since  we  came  here.  At  noon  the  tide  was 
higher  than  common,  and  one  of  our  canoes  got  among 
some  logs,  and  was  split.  The  rain  and  wind  continued 
all  day  violent. 

Saturday  23.  The  weather  was  somewhat  cloudy  but 
more  calm.  Some  of  the  men  went  out  to  hunt  and 
some  to  mend  the  canoe  which  had  been  split  in  the 
storm  yesterday.  The  natives  still  stay  with  us,  and 
have  a  few  roots  and  berries  to  subsist  on  at  present;  but 
I  cannot  conjecture  how  they  live  during  the  winter. 
They  have  no  moccasons  or  leggins  of  any  kind ;  and 
scarce  any  other  covering  than  the  small  robes,  which 
were  mentioned  before. 

In  the  afternoon  10,  of  the  Clat-sop  nation,  that  live 
on  the  south  side  of  the  river  came  over  to  our  camp. 
These  are  also  naked,  except  the  small  robes  which 
hardly  covers  their  shoulders.  One  of  these  men  had 
the  reddest  hair  I  ever  saw,  and  a  fair  skin  much  freckled. 
In  the  evening  our  hunters  came  in,  and  had  killed  three 
deer,  eight  brants  and  12  ducks.  In  the  evening  the 
weather  cleared  and  we  had  a  fine  night. 

Sunday  24.     The  morning  was  fine  with  some  white 


158  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

frost.  As  this  was  a  fine  clear  day,  it  was  thought  pro- 
per to  remain  here  in  order  to  take  some  observations, 
which  the  bad  weather  had  before  rendered  impossible. 
The  latitude  of  this  bay  was  found  to  be  46°  19.  11.  7. 
north;*  and  at  our  camp  at  the  head  of  the  bay  the  river 
is  three  miles  and  660  yards  wide.  The  natives  stayed 
with  us  all  day.  At  night  the  party  were  consulted  by 
the  Commanding  Officers,  as  to  the  place  most  proper 
for  winter  quarters;  and  the  most  of  them  were  of  opin- 
ion, that  it  would  be  best,  in  the  first  place,  to  go  over  to 
the  south  side  of  the  river,  and  ascertains  whether  good 
hunting  ground  could  be  found  there.  Should  that  be 
the  case,  it  would  be  more  eligible  place  than  higher  up 
the  river,  on  account  of  getting  salt,  as  that  is  a  very 
scarce  article  with  us. 

Monday  £5.  The  morning  was  pleasant,  though 
cloudy,  with  a  white  frost.  We  loaded  our  canoes  and 
proceeded  on:  went  about  nine  miles  and  made  an 
attempt  to  cross  the  river,  but  failed;  we  therefore  kept 
up  the  north  side,  round  Shallow-bay,  and  encamped 
about  four  miles  above  it. 

Tuesday  26.  The  morning  of  this  day  was  cloudy 
and  wet;  but  we  set  out  early,  went  about  a  mile  and 
then  crossed  the  river;  passing  in  our  way  several  islands. 
Immediately  after  we  crossed  we  came  to  a  small  village 
of  the  natives,  and  procured  a  few  roots,  called  Wapto, 
from  them,  and  then  proceeded  on,  coasting  down  the 
bay  on  the  south  side.  The  whole  of  the  day  was 
wet  and  unpleasant,  and  in  the  evening  we  encamped 
for  the  night. 

Wednesday  27.     We  set  out  early  in  a  wet  morning; 

*  Geographers  have  stated  that  the  Columbia  enters  the  ocean 
in  latitude  46Q  18.  north.  The  difference  is  therefore  only  one  < 
minute  11  seconds  and  7  tenths.  The  longitude  by  mistake  they 
have  made  236°  34  west;  but  which  is  the  east  longitude,  leaving 
123°  28  for  the  west  longitude.  Mr.  M'Kenzie  arrived  at  the  ocean 
in  latitude  52°  23.43.  or  6Q  4.  31  north  of  the  mouth  of  the  Colum- 
bia; and  in  longitude  128°  2  or  4°  36.  west  of  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia.  This  will  shew  the  general  course  of  the  western  coast 
between,  those  places,  to  which  the  river  and  great  chain  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains  are  nearly  parallel. 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  159 

coasted  round,  and  turned  a  sharp  cape  about  a  mile; 
when  we  found  the  swells  running  so  high  that  we  had 
to  halt,  unload  our  canoes  and  haul  them  out  on  shore. 
Here  we  remained  the  afternoon  and  had  a  very  wet 
night. 

Thursday  28.  We  had  a  wet  windy  morning;  some 
of  the  hunters  went  out,  but  had  no  luck.  It  rained  all 
day;  and  we  had  here  no  fresh  water,  but  what  was  taken 
out  of  the  canoes  as  the  rain  fell. 

Friday  29.  The  weather  continues  cloudy  and  wet. 
Captain  Lewis  with  four  men,  started  to  go  down  and 
examine  whether  there  is  good  hunting,  and  whether 
we  can  winter  near  the  salt  water.  Some  of  the  hunters 
went  out  and  in  the  evening  returned  without  killing  any 
game,  which  appears  scarce.  The  hunting  is  also  dffi- 
cult,  the  country  being  full  of  thickets  and  fallen  timber. 
There  was  some  showers  of  rain  and  hail  during  the 
day, 

Saturday  30.  This  was  a  fair  day;  and  some  hunters 
went  around  the  cape  and  killed  two  or  three  ducks. 
This  is  all  the  supply  of  fresh  provisions,  that  we  have 
had  since  we  have  been  at  this  camp.  We  live  almost 
altogether  on  pounded  salmon.  The  whole  of  the  day 
was  fair,  pleasant,  and  warm  for  the  season. 

Sunday  December  1,  1805.  The  whole  of  this  day 
was  cloudy.  Some  of  the  hunters  went  out  but  had  not 
the  fortune  to  kill  any  thing,  not  even  a  duck, 

Monday  2,  The  day  was  again  cloudy  and  wet. 
Some  of  the  hunters  went  out  in  the  morning;  and  in 
the  afternoon  one  of  them  came  in,  after  killing  a  fine 
elk.  A  party  of  the  men  went  out  to  bring  in  the  meat, 
which  is  a  very  seasonable  supply,  a  number  complain- 
ing of  the  bad  effects  of  the  fish  diet.  Neither  the  hun- 
ters nor  tho  men,  who  went  for  the  meat  returned.  In 
the  evening  the  weather  became  clear,  and  we  had  a 
fine  night. 

Tuesday  3.  The  morning  was  foggy.  About  9 
o'clock  the  men  came  in  with  the  meat  of  the  elk. 
They  had  a  disagreeable  trip,  it  being  dark  before  they 
arrived  at  the  place  where  the  elk  had  been  killed:  and 


160  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

the  darkness,  fallen  timber  and  underbrush  prevented 
their  return;  so  that  they  had  to  encamp  out  all  night. 
Six  of  the  natives  came  to  our  camp,  the  first  who  appear- 
ed since  our  arrival,  and  after  staying  an  hour  proceeded 
down  the  river.  The  greater  part  of  the  day  was  fair, 
hut  in  the  evening  it  clouded  over  and  rained  again.  At 
dark  our  other  two  hunters  came  in,  and  had  killed  six 
elk  some  distance  from  the  river. 

Wednesday  4.  We  had  a  cloudy  rainy  morning. 
The  river  was  so  rough,  we  could  not  set  out  with  the 
canoes,  and  six  or  seven  men  were  sent  to  dress  the  elk 
that  had  been  killed  and  take  care  of  the  meat.  The 
rain  continued  all  day. 

Thursday  5.  Again  we  had  a  wet  stormy  day,  so 
the  men  were  unable  to  proceed  -with  the  canoes.  About 
11  o'clock  Captain  Lewis  and  three  of  his  party  came 
back  to  camp;  the  other  two  were  left  to  take  care  of 
some  meat  they  had  killed.  They  have  found  a  place 
about  15  miles  from  this  camp,  up  a  small  river  which 
puts  into  a  large  bay  on  the  south  side  of  the  Columbia, 
that  will  answer  very  well  for  winter  quarters,  as  game 
is  very  plenty,  which  is  the  main  object  with  us;  and  we 
intend  to  move  there  as  soon  as  circumstances  will 
admit.  There  is  more  wet  weather  on  this  coast,  than 
I  ever  knew  in  any  other  place ;  during  a  month  we  have 
had  but  three  fair  days;  and  there  is  no  prospect  of  a 
change. 

Friday  6.  We  had  another  wet  morning,  and  were 
not  able  to  set  out.  At  noon  it  rained  very  hard,  and 
the  tide  flowed  so  high,  that  in  some  part  of  our  camp 
the  water  was  a  foot  deep:  we  had  therefore  to  remove 
to  higher  ground.  In  the  afternoon  it  still  continued  to 
rain  hard. 

Saturday  7.  About  12  last  night  the  rain  ceased  and 
we  had  a  fine  clear  morning.  We  put  our  canoes  into 
the  water,  loaded  them,  and  started  for  our  intended 
wintering  place.  We  coasted  down  the  south  side  about 
a  mile,  and  then  met  with  the  six  men,  who  had  gone 
for  meat.  They  had  brought  four  of  the  skins  but  no 
meat,  the  distance  being  great  and  the  weather  very  bad. 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  161 


The  swells  being  two  high  here  to  land,  we  went  two 
miles  further  and  took  the  men  in.  We  then  proceeded 
round  the  bay  until  we  came  to  the  mouth  of  a  river 
about  100  yards  broad,  which  we  went  up  about  two 
miles  to  the  place  fixed  upon  for  winter  quarters,  unloaded 
our  canoes,  and  carried  our  baggage  about  200  yards 
to  a  spring,  where  we  encamped. 

Sunday  8.  We  had  a  fine  morning  with  some  white 
frost.  Captain  Clarke  with  five  men  set  out  to  go  to  the 
ocean,  and  myself  with  eleven  more  to  bring  in  the 
meat,  which  the  two  men  left  by  Captain  Lewis  were 
taking  care  of.  We  went  up  the  small  river  in  our 
canoes  about  two  miles,  then  up  a  branch  of  it  on  the  west 
side  two  miles,  then  by  land  about  two  miles  more,  where 
we  found  the  men  and  the  meat,  of  which  we  all  carried 
two  large  loads  to  our  canoes,  and  proceeded  down  to 
camp.  In  the  evening  it  began  to  rain  again.  The 
country  towards  the  south  is  mountainous  at  some  dis- 
tance off;  and  there  is  some  snow  on  the  mountains. 
Near  our  camp,  the  country  is  closely  timbered  with 
spruce-pine,  the  soil  rich,  but  not  deep;  and  there  are 
numerous  springs  of  running  water. 

Monday  9.  The  morning  was  cloudy  and  wet.  A 
serjeant  and  eight  men  were  sent  to  bring  in  the  remain- 
der of  the  meat  we  left  yesterday;  some  were  employed 
in  making  our  camp  comfortable,  and  others  in  clearing 
a  place  for  huts  and  a  small  fort.  In  the  evening  some 
of  the  natives  came  to  our  camp,  the  first  we  have  seen 
for  some  days.  It  continued  cloudy  and  wet  all  day. 

Tuesday  10.  We  had  another  wet  cloudy  morning, 
and  all  hands  were  employed  at  work  notwithstanding 
the  rain.  About  2  o'clock  Captain  Clarke  and  three  of 
his  party  returned  to  camp;  the  other  two  remained  out 
to  hunt.  They  found  the  ocean  to  be  about  seven  miles 
from  our  camp;  for  four  miles  the  land  high  and  closely 
timbered:  the  remainder  prairie  out  with  some  streams 
of  water.  They  killed  an  elk  and  saw  about  50  in  one 
gang.  They  also  saw  three  lodges  of  Indians  on  the 
seashore.  The  natives  which  were  at  our  camp,  went 
11 


162  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

away  this    morning  afte**  receiving   some  presents,     In 
the  evening  we  laid  the  foundation  of  our  huts. 

Wednesday  11.  This  day  was  also  cloudy  and  wet; 
but  we  continued  at  our  hut  building. 

Thursday  12.  This  morning  was  cloudy  without  rain. 
In  the  forenoon  we  finished  three  rooms  of  our  cabins, 
all  but  the  covering;  which  I  expect  will  be  a  difficult 
part  of  the  business,  as  we  have  not  yet  found  any  tim- 
ber which  splits  well;  two  men  went  out  to  make  some 
boards,  if  possible,  for  our  roofs.  About  3  o'clock  in 
the  afternoon  a  number  of  the  natives  from  the  seashore 
came  to  our  camp,  and  remained  all  night.  Some  rain 
fell  in  the  evening. 

Friday  13.  We  had  a  cloudy,  but  fine  morning;  and 
all  hands  were  engaged  at  work.  The  party  of  Indians 
who  came  yesterday  went  away,  and  another  party  came 
about  the  middle  of  the  day.  Two  hunters  came  in,  and 
had  killed  18  elk,  not  more  than  four  miles  distant. 
The  day  continued  cloudy  and  some  rain  fell  in  the 
evening. 

Saturday  14.  The  two  hunters  that  had  killed  the  elk, 
went  back  with  two  other  men  to  take  care  of  the  meat. 
In  the  course  of  the  day  a  good  deal  of  rain  fell ;  the 
weather  here  still  continues  warm,  and  there  has  been 
no  freezing  except  a  little  white  frost.  In  the  afternoon 
the  savages  all  went  away.  We  completed  the  building 
of  our  huts,  seven  in  number,  all  but  the  covering,  which 
I  now  find  will  not  be  so  difficult  as  I  expected;  as  we 
have  found  a  kind  of  timber  in  plenty,  which  splits  freely 
and  makes  the  finest  puncheons  I  have  ever  seen.  They 
can  be  split  10  feet  long  and  two  broad,  not  more  than 
an  inch  and  a  half  thick. 

Sunday  15.  .  The  morning  was  cloudy.  Captain 
Clarke  with  16  of  the  party  started  to  bring  in  the  meat 
the  four  men  were  taking  care  of;  myself  and  two  others 
were  employed  in  fixing  and  finishing  the  quarters  of  the 
Commanding  Officers,  and  two  more  preparing  puncheons 
for  covering  the  huts.  Some  light  showers  fell  during 
the  day;  and  at  night  three  Indians  camo  to  our  camp, 
and  brought  us  two  large  salmon. 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  163 

Monday  16.  This  was  a  wet  morning  with  high  wind. 
About  eight  Captain  Clarke  and  15  men  came  in  loaded 
with  meat;  they  left  a  canoe  with  seven  men  to  bring  in 
the  remainder.  They  had  a  very  bad  night,  as  the 
weather  was  stormy  and  a  great  deal  of  rain  fell.  Not- 
withstanding this,  a  sergeant  and  four  men,  who  had  got 
lost,  lay  out  all  night  without  fire.  As  soon  as  they 
arrived  all  hands  were  set  to  carrying  up  the  meat,  and 
putting  it  in  a  house  we  had  prepared  for  the  purpose. 
The  whole  of  the  day  was  stormy  and  wet, 

Tuesday  17.  This  was  another  cloudy  day,  with 
some  light  showers  of  rain  and  hail.  About  1 1  o'clock 
the  seven  men  came  with  the  canoe  and  the  remainder 
of  the  meat.  We  still  continued  working  at  our  huts. 

Wednesday  18.  Snow  fell  last  night  about  an  inch 
deep,  and  the  morning  was  stormy.  In  the  middle  of 
the  day  the  weather  became  clear,  and  we  had  a  fine 
afternoon. 

Thursday  19.  This  was  a  fine  clear  cool  morning, 
and  we  expected  to  have  some  fair  pleasant  weather,  but 
at  noon  it  became  cloudy  again  and  began  to  rain. 

Friday  20.  The  morning  was  cloudy  and  wet.  We 
collected  all  the  puncheons  or  slabs  we  had  made,  and 
some  which  we  got  from  some  Indian  huts  up  the  bay, 
but  found  we  had  not  enough  to  cover  all  our  huts. 
About  10  o'clock  the  weather  became  clear;  but  before 
night  it  rained  as  fast  as  before.  From  this  day  to  the 
25th -we  had  occasionally  rain  and  high  winds,  but  the 
weather  still  continued  warm.  On  the  evening  of  the 
24th  we  got  all  our  huts  covered  and  daubed. 

Wednesday  25.  Was  another  cloudy  wet  day.  This 
morning  we  left  our  camp  and  moved  into  our  huts.  At 
daybreak  all  the  men  paraded  and  fired  a  round  of  small 
arms,  wishing  the  Commanding  Officers  a  merry  Christ- 
masr  In  the  course  of  the  day  Captain  Lewis  and  Capt. 
Clarke  collected  what  tobacco  remained  and  divided  it 
among  those  who  used  tobacco  as  a  Christmas-gift,  to 
the  others  they  gave  handkerchiefs  in  lieu  of  it.  We 
had  no  spirituous  liquors  to  elevate  our  spirits  this  Christ- 
mas ;  but  of  this  we  had  but  little  need,  as  we  were  all  in 


164  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

very  good  health.  Our  living  is  not  very  good;  meat  is 
plenty,  but  of  an  ordinary  quality,  as  the  elk  are  poor  in 
this  part  of  the  country.  We  have  no  kind  of  provi- 
sions but  meat,  and  we  are  without  salt  to  season  that. 

The  26th,  27th  and  28th,  were  cloudy  with  rain.  We 
found  our  huts  smoked;  there  being  no  chimnies  in  them 
except  in  the  officers'  rooms.  The  men  were  therefore 
employed,  except  some  hunters  who  went  out,  in  making 
chimnies  to  the  huts.  In  the  evening  of  the  27th  we 
were  informed  that  a  large  fish,  answering  to  the  descrip- 
tion of  a  whale,  was  driven  upon  shore.  In  the  forenoon 
of  the  28th  six  men  started  for  the  seashore  to  make  salt, 
as  we  have  none  in  the  fort.  Two  hunters  returned, 
having  killed  a  deer,  and  three  went  out  to  hunt. 

Sunday  29.  This  was  a  cloudy  morning;  but  a  fair 
day  succeeded;  and  three  more  hunters  went  out.  In 
the  afternoon  several  of  the  Chin-ook  nation  came  to 
our  fort  with  Wapto  root  and  dried  salmon  to  trade.  We- 
purchased  some  from  them  and  found  the  supply  season- 
able as  our  meat  on  hand  is  somewhat  spoiled.  The 
men  about  the  fort  are  engaged  in  finishing  our  small 
fortification. 

Monday  30.  Heavy  showers  of  rain  fell  last  night, 
but  the  morning  was  fair,  and  we  had  some  sunshine, 
which  happens  very  seldom;  light  showers  of  rain  fell 
during  the  day.  About  2  o'clock  the  three  hunters  that 
first  went  out  came  in;  and  had  killed  four  elk.  Seven 
men  went  out  immediately  and  brought  them  imo  the 
fort  safe,  which  was  a  pleasing^sight,  the  meat  we  had  on 
hand  being  spoiled.  This  evening  we  completely  finish- 
ed our  fortification. 

Tuesday  31.  Another  cloudy  morning.  Some  more 
of  the  natives  came  to  trade  with  Wapto  roots  and 
salmon:  tho  first  party  had  gone  off  in  the  morning. 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  165 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

Wednesday,  January  1,  1806.  The  year  commen- 
ced with  a  wet  day ;  but  the  weather  still  continues  warm ; 
and  the  ticks,  flies  and  other  insects  are  in  abundance, 
which  appears  to  us  very  extraordinary  at  this  season  of 
the  year,  in  a  lititude  so  far  north.  Two  hunters  went 
out  this  morning.  We  gave  our  Fortification  the  name 
of  Fort  Clatsop.  In  the  evening  our  two  hunters,  that 
went  out  this  morning,  returned  and  had  killed  two  large 
elk  about  three  miles  from  the  Fort. 

Thursday  2.  This  also  was  a  cloudy  wet  day.  Four- 
teen men  went  out  in  the  morning  and  brought  the  meat 
of  the  elk  into  the  Fort. 

Friday  3.  The  weather  is  still  cloudy  and  wet.  I 
set  out  this  morning  with  one  of  the  men  to  go  to  the 
salt  works,  to  see  what  progress  those  engaged  in  that 
business  had  made;  and  why  some  of  them  had  not 
returned,  as  they  had  been  expected  for  some  time.  We 
proceeded  along  a  dividing  ridge,  expecting  to  pass  the 
heads  of  some  creeks^  which  intervened.  We  traveled 
all  day  and  could  see  no  game ;  and  the  rain  still  contin- 
en.  In  the  evening  we  arrived  at  a  place  where  two  of 
the  men  had  killed  an  elk  sometime  ago.  Here  we 
struck  up  a  fire,  supped  on  the  marrow  bones  and 
remained  all  night. 

Saturday  4.  The  morning  was  wet;  but  we  proceed- 
ed on,  and  passed  the  head  of  a  creek  which  we  supposed 
was  the  last  on  our  rout  to  the  salt  works.  Immediately 
after  passing  the  creek,  the  man  with  me  killed  an  elk; 
when  we  halted  and  took  breakfast  of  it,  and  then  went 
on.  We  got  into  low  ground,  passed  through  a  marsh 
about  half  a  mile  in  breadth,  where  the  water  was  knee 
deep;  then  got  into  a  beautiful  prairie  about  five  miles 
wide,  and  which  runs  along  the  seashore  about  30  miles 
from  Point  Adams  on  the  south  side  of  Hayley's  Bay, 
in  nearly  a  southwest  course  and  ends  at  a  high  point  of 
a  mountain,  called  Clarke's  view  on  the  sea  shore. 
Through  this  plain  or  prairie  runs  another  creek,  or  small 


166  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

river  which  we  could  not  pass  without  some  craft:  so  we 
encamped  on  the  creek  and  supped  on  the  elk's  tongue, 
which  we  had  brought  with  us. 

Sunday  5.  This  was  a  very  wet  day.  We  killed  a 
squirrel  and  eat  it;  made  a  raft  to  cross  the  creek;  but 
when  it  was  tried  we  found  it  would  carry  only  one  per- 
son at  a  time;,  the  man  with  me  was  therefore  sent  over 
first,  who  thought  he  could  shove  the  raft  across  again; 
but  when  we  attempted,  it  only  went  half  way:  so  that 
there  was  one  of  us  on  each  side  and  the  raft  in  the  mid- 
dle. I,  however  notwithstanding  the  cold,  stript  and 
swam  to  the  raft,  brought  it  over  and  then  crossed  on  it 
in  safety;  when  we  pursued  our  journey,  and  in  a  short 
time  came  to  some  Indian  camps  on  the  sea  shore.  The 
rain  and  wind  continued  so  violent  that  we  agreed  to  stay 
at  these  camps  all  night. 

Monday  6.  We  had  a  fair  morning  and  the  weather 
cleared  up,  after  two  months  of  rain,  except  four  days. 
We  therefore  set  out  from  these  lodges;  passed  the  mouth 
of  a  considerable  river;  went  about  two  miles  up  the 
shore,  and  found  our  salt  makers  at  work.  Two  of  their 
detachment  had  set  out  for  the  fort  on  the  4th  and  the 
man  that  had  come  with  me  and  two  more  went  to  hunt. 

Tuesday  7.  Another  fine  day.  About  noon  Captain 
Clarke  with  14  men  came  to  the  salt-makers  camp,  in 
their  way  to  the  place  where  the  large  fish  had  been  dri- 
ven on  shore,  some  distance  beyond  this  camp.  The 
Indians  about  our  fort  had  procured  a  considerable  quan- 
tity of  the  meat,  which  we  found  very  good.  The  8th 
was  a  fine  day  and  I  remained  at  camp.  The  9th  was 
also  fair  and  pleasant;  and  about  noon  Captain  Clarke 
and  his  party  returned  here;  the  distance  being  about  17 
miles.  They  found  the  skeleton  of  the  whale  which 
measured  105  feet  in  length  and  the  head  12.  The 
natives  had  taken  all  the  meat  off  its  bones,  by  scalding 
and  other  means,  for  the  purpose  of  trade.  The  Indians, 
who  live  up  there  are  of  another  nation,  and  call  them- 
selves the  Callemex  nation.  They  are  a  ferocious 
nation:  one  of  them  was  going  to  kill  one  of  our  men, 
for  his  blanket;  but  was  prevented  by  a  squaw  of  the 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  167 

Chinook  nation,  who  lives  among  them,  and  who  raised 
an  alarm.  There  is  a  small  river  comes  into  ihe  sea  at 
that  place.  Captain  Clarke  and  his  party  remained  at  the 
camp  all  night,  during  which  some  rain  tell. 

Friday  10.  The  morning  was  fine  and  Captain  Clarke 
and  his  party  started,  <and  I  remained  at  this  camp  to 
wait  the  return  of  the  man  who  had  come  with  me  and 
who  was  out  hunting.  The  llth  was  also  pleasant,  and 
I  proceeded  with  a  party  for  the  fort;  where  about  9 
o'clock  we  arrived  the  next  day.  Two  hunt&rs  had  gone 
out  from  the  fort  in  the  morning,  and  killed  seven  elk 
about  two  miles  from  it. 

Monday  13.  The  weather  changed  and  we  had  a 
cloudy  wet  day;  and  all  the  hands,  who  could  be  spared 
were  engaged  in  bringing  the  meat  of  the  elk,  killed  yes- 
terday to  camp. 

Tuesday  14.  The  morning  was  pleasant;  and  two 
men  were  sent  to  the  salt  works  to  assist  in  making  salt. 
The  rest  of  our  people  were  employed  in  drying  and 
taking  care  of  the  meat;  -and  in  dressing  elk  skins  for 
moccasons,  which  is  a  laborious  business,  but  we  have  no 
alternative  in  this  part  of  the  country. 

The  15th  and  16th  were  both  wet  throughout,  and  the 
men  employed  as  on  the  14th.  In  the  morning  of  the 
17th  there  were  some  clouds;  but  about  10  o'clock  they 
disappeared  and  we  had  a  fine  day.  About  the  same  time 
eight  of  the  natives  of  the  Clatsop  nation  came  to  our 
fort,  and  stayed  till  the  evening.  A  hunter  went  out  in 
the  morning  and  killed  a  deer. 

Saturday  18.  Last  night  was  very  dark;  and  early  in 
it  rain  came  on  and  continued  all  night.  This  day  is  also 
wet.  Some  of  the  natives  visited  us  and  went  away  in 
the  evening. 

Sunday  19.  Four  hunters  went  out  this  morning, 
which  was  fair  with  flying  clouds;  but  in  the  evening  jt 
began  to  rain  again.  We  had  another  visit  from  some  of 
the  natives. 

Monday  20.  It  rained  hard  all  day.  Some  of  the 
natives  again  came  to  see  us,  whom  we  suffered,  con- 
trary to  our  usual  practice,  to  remain  in  the  fort  all  night; 


168     JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

the  evening  was  so  wet  and  stormy.  It  also  rained  on 
the  21st  and  22nd.  Our  hunters  killed  three  elk.  On 
my  way  with  a  party  to  bring  in  the  meat  of  these,  I 
saw  some  amazingly  large  trees  of  the  fur  kind;  they  are 
from  12  to  15  feet  in  diameter. 

Thursday  23.  We  had  a  fine  clear  cool  morning, 
and  two  men  were  sent  on  to  the  salt  works.  The  day 
continued  pleasant  until  about  4  o'clock  in  the  afternoon, 
when  the  weather  became  cloudy,  and  it  began  to  rain. 

Friday  24.  At  daylight  some  snow  fell,  and  there 
were  several  snow  showers  during  the  day.  In  the 
afternoon  two  of  our  hunters  and  some  of  the  natives 
came  to  the  fort  in  an  Indian  canoe  with  the  meat  of  two 
deer  and  an  elk  they  had  killed.  The  Indians  were 
barefooted  notwithstanding  the  snow  on  the  ground;  and 
the  evening  was  so  bad  we  permitted  them  to  stay  in  the 
fort  all  night. 

Saturday  25.  The  morning  was  cloudy  and  some 
showers  of  snow  fell  in  the  course  of  the  day;  and  in 
the  night  it  fell  to  the  depth  of  eight  inches.  On  the 
26th  there  were  some  light  showers  during  the  day;  but 
in  the  evening  the  weather  cleared  up,  and  it  began  to 
freeze  hard.  This  is  the  first  freezing  weather  of  any 
consequence  we  have  had  during  the  winter. 

Monday  27.  This  was  a  clear  cold  frosty  morning; 
and  the  snow  about  nine  inches  deep.  Where  the  sun 
shone  on  it  during  the  day,  a  considerable  quantity  of  it 
melted;  but  these  places  were  few,  as  the  whole  face  of 
the  country  near  this  is  closely  covered  with  fir  timber. 
In  the  afternoon  a  hunter  came  in  and  informed  us  that 
the  party  he  had  been  with  had  killed  10  elk. 

Tuesday  28.  A  clear  cold  morning,  and  the  weather 
continued  cold  all  day.  About  half  of  our  men  were 
employed  bringing  home  meat;  and  it  was  found  a  very 
cold  uncomfortable  business.  The  two  men  who  lately 
went  to  the  salt  works  returned  with  a  small  supply. 

Wednesday  29.  We  had  a  cold  clear  morning;  and 
the  day  continued  clear  throughout.  On  the  30th  the 
weather  was  cloudy ;  and  not  so  cold  as  the  day  before  ; 
and  some  snow  fell. 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  169 

Friday  31.  This  was  a  clear  cold  morning.  Seven 
of  us  went  up  the  small  river  in  a  canoe  to  hunt;  but  after 
we  had  gone  a  mile,  we  were  stopped  by  the  ice  and  had 
to  return  to  the  fort.  One  of  the  men  at  the  salt  works 
had  been  out  hunting,  and  killed  an  elk;  and  called  at  the 
fort  for  men  to  assist  him  in  taking  the  meat  to  their  camp. 

Saturday,  February  1,  1806.  We  had  a  fine  clear 
cold  morning.  A  numbar  of  the  men  went  out  to  bring 
meat  to  the  fort,  and  to  take  some  to  the  salt  works. 

Sunday  2.  The  morning  was  pleasant  and  the  weather 
more  moderate.  About  the  middle  of  the  day  it  began 
to  thaw  and  in  the  evening  to  rain.  Some  of  our  men 
were  engaged  to  day  bringing  in  more  meat. 

Monday  3.  Some  light  showers  of  rain  fell  in  the 
course  of  last  night;  and  this  day  is  still  somewhat  wet 
and  cloudy.  One  of  our  hunters  came  in,  who  had 
killed  seven  elk,  and  returned  with  a  party  and  a  canoe 
to  bring  in  the  meat.  We  are  fortunate  in  getting  as 
much  meat  as  we  can  eat;  but  we  have  no  other  kind  of 
provisions. 

Tuesday  4.  This  was  a  fine  clear  morning.  Last 
night  the  men,  who  had  gone  to  carry  the  meat  to  the 
salt  works,  returned  and  brought  us  a  bushel  of  salt. 
This  day  continued  throughout  clear  and  pleasant;  and 
the  5th  was  a  clear  cold  day.  One  of  our  hunters  came 
in,  who  had  killed  six  elk. 

Thursday  6.  We  had  a  cool  fair  morning.  Ten  of 
us  started  with  canoes  to  bring  in  the  meat  of  the  elk, 
killed  yesterday;  and  had  to  encamp  out  all  night  but 
with  the  assistance  of  the  elk  skins  and  our  blankets,  we 
lodged  pretty  comfortable,  though  the  snow  was  four  or 
five  inches  deep. 

Friday  7.  The  morning  was  fair,  and  all  hands  enga- 
ged bringing  in  the  meat;  we  got  some  to  the  fort;  but 
myself  and  part  of  the  men  had  again  to  encamp  out. 
It  rained  hard  and  we  had  a  disagreeable  night. 

Saturday  8.  About  noon  there  were  showers  of  rain 
and  hail.  Some  of  the  hunters  killed  four  more  elk  and 
we  got  all  the  meat  safe  to  camp  in  the  evening. 

Sunday  9.     We  had  a  fine  morning;  but  in  the  course 


170  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

of  the  day  we  had  sometimes  sunshine,  and  sometimes 
showers  of  rain.  One  of  our  hunters  caught  a  beaver. 

Monday  10.  A  light  snow  fell  last  night,  and  the 
morning  was  pleasant.  In  the  afternoon  two  men  came 
from  the  salt  works,  with  information  that  two  others 
were  sick  and  a  third  had  cut  his  knee  so  badly  he  could 
scarcely  walk. 

Tuesday  11.  This  was  a  fine  morning.  A  sergeant 
and  six  men  were  sent  to  bring  the  sick  men  to  the  fort. 
At  the  same  time  myself  and  two  men  went  out  to  hunt, 
and  remained  out  to  the  17ih  during  which  time  there 
was  a  great  deal  of  heavy  rain,  and  the  weather  changea- 
ble and  disagreeable.  While  we  were  out  we  killed 
eight  elk.  During  one  of  the  most  disagreeable  nights, 
myself  and  another  lay  out  in  our  shirts  and  overalls, 
with  only  one  elk  skin  to  defend  us  from  a  violent  night's 
rain.  We  had  started  a  gang  of  elk,  and  in  order  to  be 
light  in  the  pursuit  left  our  clothes  where  the  first  was 
killed,  and  could  not  get  back  before  dark.  Our  shirts 
and  overalls  being  all  of  leather  made  it  the  more  disa- 
greeable. 

Monday  17.  The  day  was  stormy;  we  set  out  for  the 
fort  and  arrived  there  in  the  afternoon.  WTe  found  the 
sick  men  at  the  fort,  and  still  very  bad.  One  of  the 
men  brought  word  from  the  salt  works,  that  they  had 
made  about  four  bushels  of  salt;  and  the  Commanding 
Officers  thought  that  would  be  sufficient  to  serve  the 
party,  until  we  should  arrive  at  the  Missouri  where  there 
is  some  deposited. 

Tuesday  18.  The  morning  of  this  day  was  cloudy. 
A  sergeant  and  six  men  set  out  to  go  to  the  salt  works,  to 
bring  the  salt  and  kettles  to  the  fort.  At  the  same  time  I 
started  with  10  more  to  bring  in  meat;  but  the  weather 
was  so  stormy  we  could  not  get  round  the  bay,  and  we 
all  returned  to  the  fort. 

Wednesday  19.  We  were  employed  in  bringing  in 
meat,  and  the  sergeant  and  seven  men  again  set  out  for 
the  salt  works  by  land,  to  bring  the  salt  and  kettles  to  the 
fort.  The  day  was  very  wet  and  stormy. 

Thursday  20.     This  was  a  cloudy  morning.     A  num- 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  171 

her  of  the  Chinook  Indians  came  to  the  fort  with  hats  to 
trade.  They  are  made  of  the  cedar  bark  and  silk  grass, 
look  handsome  and  keep  out  the  rain.  But  little  rain  fell 
to  day,  and  in  the  evening  we  turned  out  the  natives  as 
usual,  and  they  all  went  home. 

Friday  21.  About  1  o'clock,  our  salt  makers  came 
home,  with  the  salt  and  baggage.  They  had  a  very 
unpleasant  day,  as  it  rained  hard  during  the  whole  of  it. 

Saturday  22.  This  was  a  fine  clear  day;  and  some  of 
the  natives  again  visited  us,  and  brought  some  hats  which 
we  purchased  at  a  moderate  price.  The  23d  was  also 
clear  and  pleasant;  but  the  morning  of  the  24th  was 
cloudy,  and  at  10  o'clock  it  began  to  rain  hard.  About 
noon  a  numbar  of  the  natives  came  to  the  fort  to  trade. 
The  rain  continued  with  high  stormy  wind;  and  we 
suffered  the  Indians  to  remain  in  the  fort  all  night. 

Tuesday  25.  The  rain  continued  and  the  weather 
was  stormy.  About  10  o'clock  the  natives  went  away, 
though  it  continued  to  rain  very  fast.  They  brought  us 
yesterday  a  number  of  small  fish,  of  a  very  excellent 
kind,  resembling  a  herring,  and  about  half  the  size. 

Wednesday  26.  We  had  a  fair  morning;  some  of  the 
hunters  went  out,  as  our  store  of  provisions  was  getting 
small,  and  three  men  went  in  ssarch  of  these  small  fish, 
which  we  had  found  very  good  eating.  The  27th  was  a 
cloudy  wet  day.  Three  of  our  hunters  came  in,  and  had 
killed  an  elk. 

Friday  28.  This  was  a  foggy  morning,  and  the  fore- 
noon cloudy.  A  sergeant  and  six  men  went  out  to  bring 
in  the  meat,  and  returned  about  noon.  The  greater  part 
of  this  day  was  fair  and  pleasant;  and  in  the  evening 
three  hunters  came  in,  and  had  killed  five  elk. 


172  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 


CHAPTER    XVIII. 

Saturday,  March  1,  1806.  We  had  a  cloudy  wet 
morning.  I  set  out  with  eight  men  and  four  hunters  to 
bring  the  meat  of  the  elk  that  had  been  killed,  which 
was  at  a  greater  distance  from  the  fort  than  any  we  had 
yet  brought  in.  There  is  a  largo  river  that  flows  into 
the  southeast  part  of  Hailey's  Bay;  upon  which  about 
20  miles  from  its  mouth,  our  hunters  discovered  falls, 
which  had  about  60  feet  of  a  perpendicular  pitch. 

Sunday  2.  This  day  was  also  wet.  The  fishing 
party  returned  at  night,  and  brought  with  them  some 
thousands  of  the  same  kind  of  small  fish,  we  got  from 
the  natives  a  few  days  ago,  and  also  some  sturgeons. 

The  Indian  name  of  the  river  we  were  up  yesterday 
is  Kil-hou-a-nak-kie,  and  that  of  the  small  river,  which 
passes  the  fort  Ne-tul. 

Monday  3.  It  rained  all  this  day  and  the  following. 
Our  sick  men  are  getting  better,  but  slowly,  as  they  have 
little  or  no  suitable  nourishment. 

Wednesday  5.  About  12  o'clock  last  night  the  rain 
ceased,  and  we  had  a  fine  morning.  A  number  of  the 
natives  visited  us;  and  at  night  our  hunters  returned,  but 
had  killed  nothing. 

Thursday  6.  Our  stock  of  provisions  being  nearly 
exhausted,  six  men  were  sent  out  in  different  directions 
to  hunt;  and  three  more  were  sent  to  endeavor  to  procure 
some  fish,  as  the  natives  take  a  great  number  of  the  small 
fish  about  20  miles  distant  from  the  fort  by  water.  Some 
men  were  also  .employed  in  repairing  the  canoes  that  we 
may  be  able  to  set  out  on  our  return  immediately,  should 
our  hunters  be  unsuccessful.  The  elk,  almost  the  only 
game  in  this  part  of  the  country,  are  chiefly  gone  to  the 
mountains.  This  day  continued  fair  throughout. 

Friday  7.  This  was  a  wet  morning,  and  some  show- 
ers fell  occasionally  during  the  day.  Among  our  other 
difficulties  we  now  experience  the  want  of  tobacco,  and 
out  of  33  persons  composing  our  party,  there  are  but 
seven  who  do  not  make  use  of  it:  we  use  crab-tree  bark 


173 


174      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

as  a  substitute.  In  the  evening  one  of  our  hunter  came 
in  and  had  killed  an  elk  a  considerable  distance  off. 

Saturday  8.  Some  snow  fell  last  night,  and  the  morn- 
ing was  stormy  and  disagreeable.  About  9  o'clock 
another  of  our  hunters  came  in  who  had  killed  two  elk; 
and  after  some  time  the  remaining  three,  having  killed 
but  one  deer,  and  lost  their  canoe. 

Sunday  9.  This  morning  10  men  went  out  to  hunt. 
There  were  some  light  showers  of  snow  this  forenoon, 
but  during  the  greater  part  of  it  the  sun  shone  clear  and 
warm.  In  the  afternoon  some  of  the  natives  came  to 
visit  us,  and  brought  some  of  the  small  fish,  which  they 
call  Ulken.  Two  hunters  came  in,  in  the  evening,  but 
had  not  killed  any  thing.  The  men  sent  to  fish  are  still 
absent,  owing  perhaps  to  the  hig'h  swells  in  the  bay. 
The  Indians  remained  in  the  fort  all  night. 

On  the  10th  we  had  changeable  weather,  with  snow 
showers.  At  noon  two  more  hunters  went  out. 

Tuesday  11.  The  weather  was  nearly  the  same  as 
yesterday.  Three  men  went  across  the  bay  in  a  canoe 
to  hunt.  Two  other  hunters  came  in  but  have  killed 
nothing.  At  noon  our  fishermen  returned  with  some 
Ulken  and  sturgeon.  The  morning  of  the  12th  was 
pleasant;  but  towards  the  evening  the  day  became  cloudy. 
Another  hunter  went  out. 

Thursday  13.  The  morning  was  fine  and  two  more 
hunters  went  out  early.  About  ten  the  hunters  who  had 
gone  across  the  bay  returned,  and  had  killed  two  elk  and 
two  deer. 

I  this  day  took  an  account  of  the  number  of  pairs  of 
moccasons  each  man  in  the  party  had;  and  found  the 
whole  to  be  338  pairs.  This  stock  was  not  provided 
without  great  labor,  as  the  most  of  them  are  made  of 
the  skins  of  elk.  Each  man  has  also  a  sufficient  quanti- 
ty of  patch-leather.  Some  of  the  men  went  out  to  look 
for  the  lost  canoe,  and  killed  two  elk. 

Friday  14.  We  had  a  fine  morning;  and  four  hun- 
ters set  out  early.  I  went  with  a  party  and  brought  in 
the  meat  of  the  two  elk  which  were  killed  last  evening. 
Two  hunters,  who  had  gone  out  yesterday  morning 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  175 

returned  very  much  fatigued,  and  had  killed  nothing  but 
a  goose  and  a  raven  which  they  eat  last  night.  While 
out  to-day  I  saw  a  number  of  musquitoes  liying  about. 
I  also  saw  a  great  quantity  of  sheep-sorrel  growing  in 
the  woods  of  a  very  large  size. 

Saturday  15.  This  was  a  fine  pleasant  morning. 
About  noon  our  hunters  came  in  and  had  killed  four  elk. 
A  numbar  of  the  natives  came  to  the  fort  to  day. 

Sunday  16.  Last  night  it  became  cloudy  and  began 
to  rain;  and  the  rain  has  continued  all  day.  The  Indians 
stayed  about  the  fort  the  whole  of  this  day.  Yesterday 
while  I  was  absent,  getting  our  meat  home,  one  of  the 
hunters  killed  two  vultures,  the  largest  fowls  I  had  ever 
seen.  I  had  never  saw  any  such  as  these  except  on  the 
Columbia  river  and  the  sea  coast. 

On  the  17th  it  rained  occasionally  during  the  whole 
of  the  day.  We  got  a  canoe  from  the  natives,  for  which 
we  gave  an  officer's  uniform  coat. 

Tuesday  18.  The  weather  was  much  like  that  of 
yesterday,  and  some  hail  fell  in  the  course  of  the  day. 
Some  of  the  men  are  repairing  the  small  canoes,  and 
making  preparations  to  return  up  the  river,  as  soon  as 
the  weather  will  permit.  One  of  the  hunters  killed  an 
elk. 

The  morning  of  the  19th  was  stormy,  some  hard  show- 
ers of  hail  fell  and  it  continued  cloudy  through  the  day. 

Thursday  20.  The  whole  of  this1  day  was  wet  and 
disagreeable.  We  intended  to  have  set  out  to  day  on 
our  return,  but  the  weather  was  too  bad.  I  made  a  cal 
culation  of  the  number  of  elk  and  deer  killed  by  the 
party  from  the  1st  of  December  1805,  to  the  20th  of 
March  1806,  which  gave  131  elk  and  20  deer.  There 
were  a  few  smaller  quadrupeds  killed  such  as  otter  and 
beaver;  and  one  raccoon.  The  meat  of  some  of  the  elk 
was  not  brought  to  the  fort. 

Friday  21.  We  had  a  cloudy  wet  morning.  Two 
of  the  hunters  went  out  this  morning;  and  about  10 
o'clock  we  were  visited  by  some  of  the  Clat-sop  Indians. 
These  and  the  Chin-ook,  Cath-la-mas,  Cal-a-mex  and 
Chiltz  nations,  who  inhabit  the  seacoast,  all  dress  in  the 


176  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

same  manner.  The  men  are  wholly  naked  except  a 
small  robe;  the  women  have  only  the  addition  of  the 
short  petticoat.  Their  language  also  is  nearly  the  same; 
and  they  all  observe  the  same  ceremony  of  depositing 
with  the  remains  of  the  dead  all  their  property,  or  placing 
it  at  their  graves.  I  believe  I  saw  as  many  as  an  hun- 
dred canoes  at  one  burying-place  of  the  Chin-ooks,  on 
the  north  side  of  the  Columbia,  at  its  entrance  into 
Hailey?s  Bay:  and  there  are  a  great  many  at  the  bury- 
ing-place of  every  village.  These  Indians  on  the  coast 
have  no  horses,  and  very  little  property  of  any  kind, 
except  their  canoes.  The  women  are  much  inclined  to 
venery,  and  like  those  on  the  Missouri  are  sold  to  pros- 
titution at  an  easy  rate.  An  old  Chin-ook  squaw  fre- 
quently visited  our  quarters  with  nine  girls  which  she 
kept  as  prostitutes. .  To  the  honor  of  the  Flatheads,  who 
live  on  the  west  side  of  the  Eocky  Mountains,  and  extend 
some  distance  down  the  Columbia,  we  must  mention 
them  as  an  exception;  as  they  do  not  exhibit  those  loose 
feelings  of  carnal  desire,  nor  appear  addicted  to  the 
common  customs  of  prostitution:  and  they  are  the  only 
nation  on  the  whole  route  where  any  thing  like  chastity 
is  regarded.  In  the  evening  our  two  hunters  returned, 
but  had  killed  nothing. 

Saturday  22.  We  had  a  cloudy  wet  morning.  Three 
hunters  were  sent  on  ahead  to  remain  at  some  good  hunt- 
ing ground  until  we  should  all  'come  up;  and  six  others 
to  hunt  near  the  fort.  In  the  evening  all  these  came  in, 
except  one,  without  any  success. 

Sunday  23.  This  was  a  cloudy  morning.  The  hun- 
ter who  remained  out  last  night,  came  in  early ;  and  had 
killed  an  elk.  We  were  employed  this  afternoon  in 
dividing  and  packing  up  our  loading;  and  distributing  it 
among  the  canoes,  which  were  five  in  number,  three 
large  and  two  small.  At  noon  we  put  it  on  board;  and 
at  1  o'clock  left  fort  Clatsop.  The  afternoon  was  fair; 
we  proceeded  round  Point  William,  went  about  19  miles, 
and  encamped  at  the  mouth  of  a  creek,  where  we  found 
the  three  hunters,  that  had  been  sent  on  ahead;  and  who 
had  killed  two  elk  about  a  mile  and  a  half  distant. 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  177 

Monday  24.  After  a  bad  night's  rest,  on  account  of 
the  rain,  15  men  went  out  and  brought  the  meat  of  the 
two  elk  to  our  camp.  The  morning  was  fair  and  after 
breakfast  they  all  embarked,  except  the  men  belonging 
to  my  canoe  which  the  tide  had  left  aground.  The  hun- 
ters went  on  in  the  small  canoe  ahead,  and  I  had  to  wait 
for  the  rising  of  the  tide.  In  about  two  hours  I  was  able 
to  follow  the  other  canoes,  and  proceeded  on  about  12 
miles  to  a  village  of  the  Cath-la-mas  where  the  rest  of 
the  party  had  halted.  When  I  arrived  we  all  proceeded 
on  again,  and  in  the  evening  encamped  at  an  old  village, 
which  had  been  vacated. 

Tuesday  25.  We  set  out  after  breakfast  and  had  a 
fair  morning;  proceeded  on  to  12  o'clock,  when  we 
again  halted,  the  wind  and  tide  being  both  against  us. 
When  the  tide  began  to  rise  we  went  on  again,  saw  some 
of  the  natives  in  canoes  descending  the  river,  and  in  the 
afternoon  passed  an  Indian  lodge,  where  one  of  the  men 
purchased  an  otter  skin.  At  this  time  the  wind  rose  and 
blew  very  hard  accompanied  with  rain;  notwithstanding 
we  proceeded  on  till  night,  when  we  came  to  the  mouth 
of  a  small  creek  which  formed  a  good  harbor  for  our 
canoes.  Here  we  found  several  of  the  natives  encamped 
and  catching  sturgeon,  of  which  they  had  taken  14  large 
ones. 

Wednesday  26.  After  a  disagreeable  night's  rain,  and 
wind,  we  continued  our  voyage.  As  we  passed  along  I 
saw  a  great  many  flowers  full  blown  of  different  colors; 
and  grass  and  other  herbage  growing  fast:  I  saw  nettles 
two  feet  high  of  this  spring's  growth. 

Thursday  27.  This  was  a  cloudy  wet  morning.  We 
embarked  early  and  went  about  six  miles,  when  we  came 
to  a  small  Indian  village,  where  the  natives  received  us 
very  kindly.  They  belong  to  the  Chil-ook  nation,  and 
differ  something  in  their  language  from  the  Chin-ooks. 
We  got  some  Wapto  roots  and  fish  from  them  and  then 
proceeded  on,  though  it  rained  very  hard.  Two  small 
canoes  went  on  ahead  to  Deer  island,  in  order  to  kill 
some  game  by  the  time  we  should  come  up.  We  passed 
several  Indian  lodges  where  the  natives  were  fishing  for 
12 


178  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

sturgeon,  and  got  a  large  one  out  of  a  small  canoe ;  a 
number  of  which  followed  us  with  two  Indians  in  each  of 
them.  At  night  we  encamped  where  we  had  plenty  of 
good  wood,  oak  and  ash. 

Friday  28.  The  morning  was  cloudy.  We  set  out 
early,  and  at  10  o'clock  came  to  Deer  island;  where 
those  who  had  gone  ahead  in  the  small  canoes  had 
encamped,  and  all  gone  out  to  hunt  except  one.  In  a 
short  time  a  hunter  returned  with  a  large  deer,  and  we 
concluded  to  stay  here  all  day  and  repair  two  of  our 
canoes,  that  leaked.  It  rained  at  intervals  during  the 
day.  Our  hunters  came  in  and  had  killed  seven  deer 
in  all.  Some  of  the  men  went  to  bring  in  the  meat,  and 
others  went  out  and  killed  same  geese  and  ducks.  At 
the  last  village  we  passed  I  took  notice  of  a  difference 
in  the  dress  of  the  females,  from  that  of  those  below, 
about  the  coast  and  Hailey's  Bay.  Instead  of  the  short 
petticoat,  they  have  a  piece  of  thin  dressed  skin  tied  tight 
round  their  loins,  with  a  narrow  slip  coming  up  between 
their  thighs.  On  this  island  there  are  a  greater  number 
of  snakes,  than  I  had  ever  seen  in  any  other  place ;  they 
appeared  almost  as  numerous  as  the  blades  of  grass; 
aid  are  a  species  of  Garter  snake.  When  our  men  went 
for  the  deer,  they  found  that  the  fowls  had  devoured  four 
of  the  carcases  entirely,  except  the  bones.  So  they 
brought  in  the  other  two;  and  we  finished  our  canoes  and 
put  them  in  the  water.  The  Columbia  river  is  now  very 
high,  which  makes  it  more  difficult  to  ascend. 

Saturday  29.  The  morning  was  pleasant  with  some 
white  frost  and  we  proceeded  on  early;  passed  some  old 
Indian  lodges,  and  in  the  afternoon  came  to  a  large 
village,  where  we  were  received  with  great  kindness, 
and  got  fish  and  wapto  roots  to  eat.  Here  we*  bought 
some  dogs  and  waptos,  and  then  went  on  again,  about  a 
mile,  and  encamped.  One  of  the  sick  men  is  quite 
recovered  and  the  other  two  are  getting  better. 

Sunday  30.  The  morning  was  fair  with  some  dew. 
We  set  out  early  accompanied  by  several  of  the  natives 
in  canoes.  The  river  is  very  high,  overflowing  all  its 
banks.  We  passed  some  villages  of  the  natives  on 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  179 

Wapto  island,  which  is  about  20  miles  long  and  one 
broad,  but  did  not  halt  at  any  of  them.  The  natives  of 
this  country  ought  to  have  the  credit  of  making  the  finest 
canoes,  perhaps  in  the  world,  both  as  to  service  and 
beauty;  and  are  no  less  expert  in  working  them  when 
made.*  We  had  a  beautiful  day  throughout,  and  in  the 
evening  encamped  on  a  handsome  prairie  in  sight  of  a 
large  pond  on  the  north  side  of  the  river. 

Monday  31.  This  was  a  beautiful  clear  morning,  and 
we  proceeded  on  early.  One  of  the  men  went  along 
shore,  and  in  a  short  time  killed  a  deer:  the  deer  are 
very  plenty  on  this  part  of  the  river.  We  proceeded  on, 
and  passed  a  large  village  which  was  full  of  people  as 
we  went  down,  but  is  now  all  deserted  except  one  lodge. 
In  the  evening  we  came  to  a  small  prairie  opposite  the 
mouth  of  Quicksand  river,  where  we  encamped. 

Tuesday,  April  1,  1806.  We  had  a  cloudy  morning; 
and  we  agreed  to  stay  here  all  day,  for  the  purpose  of 
hunting.  So  nine  hunters  set  out  early;  three  of  whom 
went  up  Quicksand  river,  and  killed  a  deer:  the  other 
six  killed  four  elk  and  a  deer.  In  the  evening  nine  of 
us  went  to  bring  in  the  meat  of  the  elk;  but  it  being  late 
we  were  obliged  to  encamp  out  all  night. 

Wednesday  2.  We  returned  in  the  morning  to  camp; 
and  it  was  agreed  to  stay  here  some  time  longer  to  hunt 
and  dry  meat.  Therefore  three  parties  went  out  to  hunt. 
Myself  and  four  men  went  below  the  mouth  of  Sandy 
river,  and  killed  an  elk,  some  deer  and  a  black  bear. 

Thursday  3.  We  went  out  and  killed  some  deer; 
and  then  to  bring  in  the  meat  of  the  bear  and  dry  that  of 
the  elk;  but  it  rained  so  hard  we  could  not  dry  the  meat; 
and  therefore  brought  in  the  carcase  of  the  bear.  On 
our  way  we  saw  three  small  cubs  in  a  den,  but  the  old 
bear  was  not  with  them.  In  the  evening  we  returned  to 
our  camp,  and  remained  there  all  night. 

Friday  4.     After  a  cloudy  morning,  we  turned  out  and 

*  "I  had  imagined  that  the  Canadians,  who  accompanied  me 
were  the  most  expert  canoe-men  in  the  world,  but  they  are  very 
inferior  to  these  people  (the  natives  near  the  coast)  as  they  them- 
selves acknowledged,  in  conducting  those  vessels." — M'KENZIE. 


180  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

killed  a  deer  and  some  geese,  and  then  went  to  the  camp. 
A  party  that  went  out  on  the  upper  side  of  Sandy  river, 
killed  four  elk,  and  some  of  the  men  were  out  drying 
the  meat. 

While  I  was  out  hunting,  Captain  Clarke  got  informa- 
tion that  a  large  river  came  in  on  the  south  side  of  the 
Columbia,  about  40  miles  below  this  place,  opposite  a 
large  island,  which  had  concealed  it  from  our  view;  and 
went  down  with  six  men  to  view  it.  He  found  it  to  be  a 
very  large  river,  500  yards  wide,  with  several  nations  of 
Indians  living  on  it;  and  its  source  supposed  to  be  near 
the  head  waters  of  some  of  the  rivers,  which  fall  into 
the  gulph  of  California.  On  their  return  they  bought 
some  dogs  at  an  Indian  village;  -and  last  night  arrived  at 
camp.  Four  men  were  sent  on  ahead  this  forenoon  in 
a  canoe  to  hunt;  and  I  went  out  with  two  more  to  the  den 
where  we  saw  the  cubs,  to  watch  for  the  old  bear;  we 
stayed  there  until  dark  and  then  encamped  about  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  off,  and  went  back  early  in  the  morning;  but 
the  old  one  was  not  returned:  so  we  took  the  cubs  and 
returned  to  camp. 

Saturday  5.  The  weather  was  pleasant.  There  is  a 
beautiful  prairie  and  a  number  of  ponds  below  the  mouth 
of  Sandy  river;  and  about  two  miles  from  the  Columbia 
the  soil  is  rich  with  white  cedar  timber,  which  is  very 
much  stripped  of  its  bark,  the  natives  making  use  of  it 
both  for  food  and  clothing.*  A  number  of  the  Indians 
visit  us  daily;  and  the  females  in  general  have  that  leather 
covering  round  their  loins,  which  is  somewhat  in  the 
form  of  a  truss. 

Sunday  6.  We  had  a  fine  morning  with  some  fog; 
about  10  o'clock  we  set  out;  passed  a  beautiful  prairie  on 

*  Mr.  M'Kenzie  also  mentions  that  the  western  Indians  make 
use  of  the  inner  tegument  of  the  bark  of  trees  for  fo®d;  and  that 
it  is  generally  considered  by  the  more  interior  Indians  as  a  delica- 
cy, rather  than  an  article  of  common  food;  that  on  this  and  herbs 
they  are  used  to  sustain  themselves  on  their  journies.  He  likewise 
slates  that  of  the  inner  rind  of  the  hemlock,  taken  off  early  in 
the  spring  they  make  a  kind  of  cakes,  which  they  eat  with  salmon 
oil,  and  of  which  they  appear  very  fond. 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  181 

the  north  side,  which  we  could  not  see  for  the  fog  as  we 
went  down;  proceeded  on  about  nine  miles  and  came  to 
our  hunters'  camp.  They  had  killed  five  elk,  so  we 
halted,  sent  out  for  the  meat  and  began  to  dry  it.  We 
are  now  at  the  head  of  the  Columbia  valley;  which  is  a 
fine  valley  70  miles  long,  abounding  with  roots  of  differ- 
ent kinds,  which  the  natives  use  for  food,  especially  the 
Wapto  roots  which  they  gather  out  of  the  ponds.  The 
timber  is  mostly  of  the  fir  kind,  with  some  cherry,  dog- 
wood, soft  maple  and  ash ;  and  a  variety  of  shrubs  which 
bear  fruit  of  a  fine  flavor,  that  the  natives  make  use  of 
for  food. 

Monday  7.  This  was  a  pleasant  day,  but  cloudy. 
Three  hunters  went  on  ahead  again  and  the  rest  of  the 
party  remained  drying  meat  to  subsist  on  while  we  passed 
the  Columbia  plains,  as  there  is  no  game  in  that  part  of 
the  country,  according  to  the  accounts  given  by  the 
natives,  who  are  daily  coming  down;  and  say  that  those 
remaining  in  the  plains  are  in  a  starving  condition,  and 
will  continue  so  until  the  salmon  begin  to  run,  which  is 
soon  expected.  We  continued  here  all  day;  and  one  of 
our  hunters  killed  a  beautiful  small  bird  of  the  quail 
kind. 

Tuesday  8.  This  was  a  fine  morning,  but  the  wind 
blew  so  hard  from  the  northeast  that  it  was  impossible 
to  go  on ;  and  about  8  o'clock  the  swells  ran  so  high  that 
we  had  to  unload  our  canoes,  and  haul  some  of  them  out 
of  the  water  to  prevent  their  being  injured.  Some  of  the 
men  are  complaining  of  rheumatic  pains;  which  are  to 
be  expected  from  the  wet  and  cold  we  suffered  last  winter, 
during  which  from  the  4th  of  November  1805  to  the  25th 
of  March  1806,  there  were  not  more  than  twelve  days  in 
which  it  did  not  rain,  and  of  these  but  six  were  clear. 
Two  hunters,  who  had  gone  out  in  the  morning,  returned 
but  had  killed  nothing,  except  a  beautiful  small  duck. 


182  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

9 

Wednesday  9.  The  morning  was  pleasant ;  we  there- 
fore loaded  our  canoes  and  proceeded  on  till  1 1  o'clock 
when  we  stopped  at  a  large  Indian  village  on  the  north 
side;  but  a  number  of  the  huts  were  unoccupied.  They 
are  of  the  Al-e-is  nation.  At  the  time  we  halted  three 
canoe  loads  of  them  were  setting  out  for  the  falls  to  fish. 
We  took  breakfast  here  and  bought  five  dogs  from  them. 
The  women  all  wear  the  small  leather  bandage,  hut  are 
quite  naked  otherwise,  except  what  is  covered  by  the 
small  robe  they  wear  round  their  shoulders.  In  the 
afternoon  the  weather  became  cloudy  and  some  rain  fell. 
In  the  evening  we  came  to  a  large  rapid  at  the  lower  end 
of  Strawberry  island;  where  there  are  a  number  of 
natives  about  settling  on  the  north  side.  Here  we  crossed 
over,  after  buying  two  dogs  from  them,  and  encamped 
behind  the  island.  Some  rain  continued  falling. 

Thursday  10.  A  party  of  men  went  out  to  collect 
pitch  to  repair  one  of  our  canoes,  which  was  split,  and 
the  rest  went  round  the  point  of  the  island,  and  took  the 
canoes  over  the  rapid,  one  at  a  time,  with  the  assistance 
of  a  line.  When  we  got  over  the  rapids  we  crossed  to 
another  village  of  the  natives  on  the  north  side,  where  I 
saw  the  skin  of  a  wild  sheep,  which  had  fine  beautiful 
wool  on  it.  Here  we  took  breakfast  and  waited  the  arri- 
val of  the  other  canoe,  which  in  about  an  hour  came  up; 
and  the  men  which  went  out  for  pitch  killed  three  deer. 
We  proceeded  on,  and  the  water  was  so  rapid,  that  we 
had  to  tow  the  canoes  up  by  the  line  almost  all  the  way 
to  the  landing  at  the  lower  end  of  the  portage,  distance  of 
about  six  miles.  In  passing  a  bad  place  the  tow-line  of 
the  small  canoe,  which  the  hunters  had  on  ahead,  broke; 
but  fortunately  there  was  nothing  in  her,  as  the  three 
hunters,  were  on  shore  dragging  her  up,  and  had  taken 
out  all  the  loading.  As  she  passed  by  us  Captain  Lewis 
got  some  of  the  natives  to  bring  her  to  shore.  In  the 
evening  we  got  to  the  end  of  the  portage,  which  is  about 
two  miles.  We  took  our  baggage  to  the  top  of  the  hill 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  183 

and  remained  with  it  all  night;  during  which  some  show- 
ers of  rain  fell. 

Friday  11.  We  had  a  cloudy  morning.  All  our  men, 
who  were  able  set  out  to  take  the  canoes  through  the 
grand  shoot.  About  1  o'clock  we  got  two  over;  and  then 
proceeded  to  take  two  more,  which  we  succeeded  in  after 
great  toil  and  danger;  and  three  hunters  went  on  ahead 
in  the  least. 

Saturday  12.  This  morning  was  wet.  We  all  set  out 
to  take  the  other  canoe  over;  but  after  we  had  fastened 
the  rope  to  her  she  swung  out  into  the  current,  which  was 
so  strong,  that  it  pulled  the  rope  out  of  the  men's  hands 
and  went  down  the  river.  We  then  went  to  carry  our 
baggage  across  the  portage,  which  was  a  very  fatiguing 
business ;  but  about  sunset  we  got  all  over.  It  rained  at 
intervals  all  day;  and  upon  the  very  high  mountains  on 
the  south  side  of  the  river,  snow  fell  and  continued  on 
the  trees  and  rocks  during  the  whole  of  the  day.  We 
had  a  number  of  the  natives  about  us  in  the  day  time; 
but  they  left  us  at  night.  We  encamped,  all  excessively 
fatigued,  at  the  upper  end  of  the  portage. 

Sunday  13.  This  was  a  cloudy  morning.  Having 
divided  the  load  of  the  lost  canoe  among  the  four  that 
were  left,  we  renewed  our  voyage  and  passed  a  large 
deserted  village  on  the  north  side.  Captain  Lewis  with 
the  two  small  canoes,  crossed  to  the  south  side,  where 
there  is  a  large  village  inhabited,  to  endeavor  to  purchase 
a  small  canoe  or  two,  as  we  were  very  much  crowded  in 
the  four  we  had.  Captain  Clarke  with  the  two  large 
canoes  continued  on  along  the  northern  shore,  till  we 
passed  Crusatte's  river,  when  the  wind  rose  so  high  we 
could  not  go  on,  so  we  halted  and  waited  for  Captain 
Lewis.  Two  hunters  went  out  about  three  hours,  but 
killed  nothing.  By  this  time  the  wind  fell  and  we  went 
on  three  miles  to  a  better  harbor,  where  we  halted  on  the 
north  side  of  the  river.  Captain  Clarke  and  three  men 
went  out  to  hunt;  and  Captain  Lewis  having  come  up 
and  crossed  over  to  us,  we  fixed  our  camp  for  the  night. 
He  got  two  canoes  and  three  dogs  from  the  inhabitants 
of  the  large  village.  They  are  of  the  Wey-eh-hoo 


184  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS   AND  CLARKE 

nation  and  have  twelve  lodges  here.  At  dark  Captain 
Clarke  and  the  party  returned,  and  had  killed  two  deer. 

Monday  14.  The  morning  was  fine  with  some  fog. 
About  9  o'clock  our  three  hunters,  who  had  gone  ahead 
and  proceeded  up  Crusatte's  river  some  distance  returned, 
having  killed  four  deer.  At  10  o'clock  we  continued  our 
voyage,  and  at  one  came  to  a  new  settlement  of  the 
natives  on  the  north  side,  where  we  saw  some  horses, 
the  first  we  have  seen  since  October  last.  These  horses 
appeared  in  good  case.  The  wind  blew  hard  from  the 
southwest  and  the  weather  was  clear  and  cool,  but  there 
has  been  no  frost  lately,  except  on  the  tops  of  the  high 
hills.  We  stayed  here  three  hours  and  then  proceeded 
on;  passed  several  Indian  camps,  and  halted  at  a  small 
creek  on  the  north  side,  where"  there  are  a  number  of 
Indian  lodges. 

Tuesday  15.  The  morning  was  fair.  The  Com- 
manding Officers  attempted  to  purchase  some  horses,  but 
could  not  agree  with  the  Indians  on  the  price;  so  we  pro- 
ceeded on  about  four  miles  to  another  village,  at  the 
mouth  of  Cataract  river.  Here  we  got  some  Shappe-leel, 
a  kind  of  bread  the  natives  make  of  roots,  and  bake  in 
the  sun;  and  which  is  strong  and  palatable.  Here  another 
trial  was  made  to  get  some  horses,  but  without  success; 
and  we  again  proceeded  on ;  passed  a  place  where  there 
was  a  village  in  good  order  last  fall  when  we  went  down; 
but  has  been  lately  torn  down,  and  again  erected  at  a 
short  distance  from  the  old  ground  where  it  formerly 
stood.  The  reasons  of  this  removal  I  cannot  conjecture, 
unless  to  avoid  the  fleas,  which  are  more  numerous  in 
this  country  than  any  insects  I  ever  saw.*  About  3 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we  came  to  Rock  Camp,  where 
we  stayed  two  days  as  we  went  down.  Some  hunters 
went  out  in  the  evening  and  killed  a  deer. 

*  "We  had  however  the  curiosity  to  visit  the  houses  (of  a  deser- 
ted village)  which  were  erected  upon  posts;  and  we  suffered  very 
severely  from  the  indulgence  of  it;  for  the  floors  were  covered 
with  fleas,  and  we  were  immediately  in  the  same  condition,  for 
which  we  had  no  remedy  but  to  take  to  the  water.  There  was  not 
a  spot  round  the  houses,  free  from  grass,  that  was  not  alive,  as  it 
were,  with  this  vermin."  M'KENZIB. 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  185 

Wednesday  16.  This  was  a  pleasant  day.  As  we 
did  not  expect  to  be  able  to  navigate  the  Columbia  river 
much  further,  Captain  Clarke,  with  some  of  the  men 
and  some  goods  went  over  the  river  to  endeavor  to  pro- 
cure some  horses.  I  was  out  hunting  this  morning  and 
killed  a  rattlesnake  among  the  rocks.  Some  hunters 
that  went  out  in  the  morning  returned  in  the  evening  and 
had  killed  two  deer,  some  ducks  and  four  squirrels,  three 
of  a  beautiful  speckled  kind,  and  as  large  as  a  common 
grey  squirrel,  but  the  tail  not  so  bushy. 

Thursday  17.  This  was  a  fine  morning.  Some 
hunters  went  out  and  we  remained  at  this  camp  all  day; 
in  the  evening  our  hunters  came  in  and  had  killed  a  deer. 
We  made  12  packsaddles.  Captain  Clarke  still  remains 
over  the  river. 

Friday  18.  We  had  fine  weather  and  all  set  out 
from  this  place,  and  proceeded  on  with  great  difficulty 
and  danger  to  the  foot  of  the  long  narrows ;  and  expect  to 
be  able  to  take  the  canoes  no  further.  Here  we  met  one 
of  the  men  from  Captain  Clarke  with  four  horses.  In 
coming  up,  one  of  our  small  canoes  got  split  so  that  we 
were  obliged  to  carry  the  load  two  miles  by  land  to  this 
place.  Wood  here  is  very  scarce,  as  the  Columbia 
plains  have  commenced.  Several  of  the  men  went -up 
to  the  village  with  their  buffalo  robes,  to  dispose  of  them 
for  horses.  Could  we  get  but  12  horses  we  would  be  able 
to  go  by  land. 

Saturday  19.  The  morning  was  cloudy  and  all  hands 
were  engaged  in  carrying  the  baggage  and  canoes  over 
the  portage,  which  is  two  miles  in  length.  Five  more 
horses  were  got  in  the  course  of  the  day.  Some  light 
showers  of  rain  fell  in  the  afternoon,  and  about  4  o'clock, 
we  got  all  our  baggage  and  canoes  across  except  the  two 
large  ones,  of  which  we  made  firewood.  At  the  same 
time  Captain  Clarke  and  four  men  went  on  ahead  to  the 
village  at  the  great  falls  to  endeavor  to  get  some  more 
horses,  by  the  time  we  arrive  there,  a  distance  of  about 
eight  miles  from  this  village.  In  the  evening  the  weath- 
er cleared  up  and  we  had  a  fine  night. 

Sunday  20.     This  was  a  pleasant  morning  with  some 


186  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

white  frost.  We  got  two  more  horses  and  lost  one; 
remained  here  all  day  and  had  a  great  deal  of  trouble 
with  our  horses,  as  they  are  all  studs,  and  break  almost 
every  rope  we  can  raise.  We  had  to  tie  them  up  at 
night,  and  one  broke  away  notwithstanding  all  our  care 
and  attention.  We  have  also  much  trouble  with  the 
Indians  as  they  are  disposed  to  steal  whenever  they  have 
an  opportunity.  With  all  our  care  they  stole  four  or  five 
tomahawks. 

Monday  21.  This  was  another  pleasant  morning  with 
some  white  frost.  We  found  the  horse,  which  had 
broke  away  last  night,  and  made  preparations  for  setting 
out  from  this  place.  While  we  were  making  prepara- 
tions to  start,  an  Indian  stole  some  iron  articles  from 
among  the  men's  hands ;  which"  so  irritated  Capt,  Lewis, 
that  he  struck  him;  which  was  the  first  act  of  the  kind, 
that  had  happened  during  the  expedition.  The  Indians 
however  did  not  resent  it,  otherwise  it  is  probable  we 
would  have  had  a  skermish  with  them.  This  morning 
we  disposed  of  our  two  canoes  and  used  another  for  fire- 
wood. At  10  o'clock  we  set  out  from  the  first  narrows 
with  nine  horses  of  our  own  and  one  we  borrowed,  and 
two  canoes  all  loaded  heavy.  I  went  with  three  other 
men  in  the  canoes,  and  had  some  difficulty  in  passing  the 
short  narrows.  About  three  in  the  afternoon  we  arrived 
at  the  great  falls  of  Columbia,  where  we  met  with  Capt. 
Clarke  and  the  men  that  were  with  him.  Here  we  got 
another  horse;  carried  our  canoes  and  baggage  round  the 
falls  and  halted  for  dinner.  We  also  got  some  dogs 
and  shapeleel,  which  we  subsist  on  chiefly  at  present.  We 
halted  here  two  hours  and  then  proceeded  on  again. 
The  party  that  went  by  land  had  to  leave  the  river,  and 
take  out  to  the  hill  a  part  of  the  way.  I  crossed  with 
my  canoe  to  the  south  side  where  there  is  the  best  water, 
and  passed  a  large  rock  island,  opposite  to  which  the 
Sho-sho-ne  river  flows  in  from  the  south.  We  went  on 
till  dark,  and  then  run  our  small  canoe  among  some 
willows,  and  laid  down  to  sleep.  We  did  not  make  any 
fire  for  fear  the  savages,  who  are  very  numerous  along 
this  part  of  the  river,  might  come  and  rob  us. 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  167 

Tuesday  22.  This  was  a  pleasant  morning  and  high 
wind.  We  proceeded  on  about  three  miles,  when  the 
wind  became  so  violent,  that  we  could  not  proceed  any 
further,  and  halted  and  unloaded  our  canoes.  Having 
remained  here  two  hours,  the  other  canoe  came  up,  and 
we  proceeded  on  though  the  wind  was  high  and  the  river 
rough.  At  sunset  I  crossed  over,  where  the  party  going 
by  land  came  in  sight,  and  halted  at  a  small  village  on 
the  north  side;  but  the  other  canoe  kept  on  along  the 
southern  shore.  In  the  course  of  this  day  two  more 
horses  were  procured,  and  at  this  small  village  we  got 
some  more  dogs  and  shapaleel. 

Wednesday  23.  We  had  a  cloudy  morning.  I  went 
also  by  water  to  day,  and  we  had  a  very  laborious  work 
in  getting  along.  In  the  evening  we  met  the  party  at  a 
large  village  of  the  Wal-la-waltz  nation  on  the  north  side 
of  the  river,  where  the  other  canoe  had  also  arrived. 
Here  we  halted,  unloaded  the  canoes  and  encamped.  A 
horse  had  got  away  last  night  and  could  not  be  found. 

Thursday  24.  The  weather  was  pleasant.  We  lost 
another  horse  last  night,  and  were  detained  here  this 
morning,  looking  for  him.  We  got  six  horses  at  this 
place,  three  of  which  were  borrowed  from  an  Indian 
who  was  going  with  his  family  along  with  us.  We  sold 
our  two  small  canoes;  and  at  noon  an  Indian  who  had 
gone  to  look  for  the  lost  horse  returned  with  him.  At 
2  o'clock  we  all  started  by  land  on  the  north  side  of  the 
river,  accompanied  by  several  of  the  natives  with  their 
families  and  horses.  We  entered  the  low  country,  the 
great  and  beautiful  plains  of  Columbia,  and  proceeded  on 
till  evening  when  we  encamped  at  two  mat-lodges  of  the 
natives,  and  got  two  dogs  and  some  shapaleel.  The 
natives  who  were  traveling  in  our  party  encamped  with 
us. 

Friday  25.  The  morning  was  pleasant,  and  we  set 
out  early.  At  10  o'clock  we  met  a  great  many  of  the 
natives  on  horseback,  who  turned  back  with  us.  At  noon 
we  came  to  a  very  large  band  of  the  Wal-a-waltz  nation, 
the  most  numerous  we  had  seen  on  the  Columbia;  I  sup- 
pose it  consisted  of  500  persons,  men,  women,  and  child- 


188      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

dren;  and  all  of  them  tolerably  well  clothed  with  robes 
of  the  skins  of  the  deer,  the  ibex  or  big  horned  animal 
and  buffalo.  They  have  a  great  many  horses  and  lately 
came  to  the  river  to  fish  for  salmon.  We  halted  here 
two  hours  and  then  went  on.  The  men  in  general  com- 
plain of  their  feet  being  sore ;  and  the  officers  have  to  go 
on  foot  to  permit  some  of  them  to  ride.  We  went  13 
miles  and  encamped  at  a  small  grove  of  willows.  There 
being  no  other  wood  for  a  considerable  distance. 

Saturday  26.  Last  night  Captain  Lewis  and  Captain 
Clarke  got  each  a  horse,  and  we  set  out  early,  had  a  fine 
morning,  and  proceeded  on  very  well,  most  of  the  men 
having  their  knapsacks  carried  on  the  horses.  At  noon 
we  halted  and  took  a  little  of  our  dried  meat,  which  is 
the  only  food  we  have.  At  2  o'clock  we  continued  our 
journey,  and  the  officers  were  obliged  to  go  on  foot  again, 
to  let  some  of  the  men  ride  whose  feet  were  very  sore. 
The  country  is  level  and  has  a  most  beautiful  appearance. 
On  these  plains  there  is  a  species  of  clover,  as  large  as 
any  I  have  seen;  and  has  a  large  red  handsome  blossom. 
The  leaves  are  not  quite  so  large  as  those  of  the  red 
clover  cultivated  in  the  Atlantic  States,  but  has  seven  or 
eight  leaves  on  a  branch.  We  were  overtaken  and  pass- 
ed by  a  great  number  of  the  natives,  with  large  droves 
of  horses,  that  looked  well  and  are  in  good  order.  We 
traveled  about  25  miles  and  encamped  at  a  small  grove 
of  willow. 

Sunday  27.  The  morning  was  cloudy  with  some 
light  showers  of  rain;  and  about  9  o'clock  we  proceeded 
on  through  the  plains,  accompanied  by  a  great  many  of 
the  natives.  Some  light  showers  of  rain  fell  at  intervals 
during  the  day ;  and  after  halting  about  two  hours  we 
continued  our  journey  to  sunset,  when  we  came  to  a 
large  village  of  mat-lodges,  belonging  to  the  Wal-la-wal4j 
las,  who  have  encamped  here  on  the  north  side  of  the 
river.  Here  we  remained  all  night,  and  the  natives  were 
good  enough  to  supply  us  with  some  faggots  of  brush, 
they  had  gathered  in  the  plains  from  sage  bushes,  which 
grow  in  great  abundance  on  some  parts  of  these  plains 
and  are  very  large. 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICKGASS.  189 

Monday  28.  The  morning  was  pleasant,  and  we 
spent  it  with  the  Indians,  and  got  dogs,  fish,  shapaleel 
and  roots  from  them.  At  10  o'clock  we  began  to  take 
our  horses  over  the  river  at  this  place,  as  we  can  lesson 
our  journey  considerably  by  crossing:  We  borrowed 
canoes  from  the  natives,  and  swam  the  horses  along  side, 
and  at  2  o^clock  in  the  afternoon  had  them  all  landed  safe, 
after  a  good  deal  of  trouble.  From  this  place  we  can 
discover  a  range  of  mountains,  covered  with  snow,  in  a 
southeast  direction  and  about  fifty  miles  distant.  In  the 
evening  the  weather  was  cloudy,  and  it  thundered  and 
threatened  rain,  a  few  drops  of  which  fell.  We  remain- 
ed here  all  night,  and  about  dark  above  a  hundred  of  the 
natives  came  ¥  down  from  the  forks  to  see  us.  They 
joined  with  those  of  this  place  and  performed  a  great 
dance.  We  were  a  very  interesting  sight  to  the  sur- 
rounding crowd,  as  nine-tenths  of  them  had  never  before 
seen  a  white  man. 

Tuesday  29.  The  natives  remained  about  our  camp 
all  night;  and  we  bought  some  dogs  and  a  horse  from 
them.  The  day  was  fair  and  we  got  all  our  baggage 
transported  to  the  south  side  of  the  river.  Here  are  a 
great  many  of  the  natives  encamped  on  a  large  creek, 
which  comes  in  from  the  south,  and  those  on  the  north 
side  are  moving  over  as  fast  as  they  can.  We  encamped 
on  the  creek,  and  got  three  horses,  some  dogs,  shap-a- 
leel,  some  roots  called  com-mas  and  other  small  roots, 
which  were  good  to  eat  and  nourishing. 

Wednesday  30.  This  was  a  cloudy  morning,  and  we 
stayed  here  till  about  11  o'clock  to  collect  our  horses, 
got  two  more;  and  have  now  altogether  twenty-three 
horses.  We  then  set  out  from  Wai-la-wal-la  river  and 
nation;  proceeded  on  about  fourteen  miles  through  an 
extensive  plain,  when  we  struck  a  branch  of  the  Wal- 
la-wal-la  river,  and  halted  for  the  night.  We  saw  no 
animals  or  birds  of  any  kind,  except  two  pheasant,  one 
of  which  Captain  Clarke  killed.  The  whole  of  this 
plain  is  of  a  sandy  surface  and  affords  but  thin  grass, 
with  some  branches  of  shrubs  which  resemble  sage  or 
hyssop.  On  the  south  side  of  this  branch  the  soil  is  of 


190  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

earth  and  rich,  covered  with  grass,  and  very  handsome. 
We  are  still  accompanied  by  several  of  the  natives. 

Thursday,  May  1,  1806.  Some  rain  fell  during  the 
night,  and  the  morning  continues  cloudy.  We  set  out 
early  and  traveled  up  the  branch,  which  is  a  fine  stream 
about  20  yards  wide,  with  some  cotton-wood,  birch  and 
willows  on  its  banks.  One  of  four  hunters,  who  went 
forward  very  early  this  morning,  returned  at  noon  with  a 
beaver  he  had  killed;  other  game  is  scarce.  We  then 
halted  to  dine,  where  the  road  forks,  one  goLjg  up  the 
branch  an  east  course,  and  the  other  north  towards  the 
large  river.  Here  our  Indians  differed  in  opinion  with 
respect  to  the  best  road  to  be  taken.  The  man  with  the 
family  and  gang  of  horses  said  he  would  go,  across  to  the 
Great  river  to-morrow;  but  we  followed  the  opinion  of 
the  young  man  our  guide,  and  proceeded  on  up  the  creek. 
We  traveled  about  25  miles,  and  encamped  without  any 
of  the  natives  except  our  guide,  who  generally  keeps 
with  the  hunters,  one  of  whom  killed  a  deer  this  evening. 
The  higher  we  go  up  the  creek  the  cotton  wood  is  larger 
and  more  plenty;  and  the  plains  beautiful. 

Friday  2.  A  fine  morning.  Last  night  about  9  o'clock, 
three  of  the  Wal-la-wal-las  came  up  with  us,  and 
brought  a  steel  trap  that  had  been  left  at  our  camp  on 
the  north  side  of  the  Columbia,  opposite  the  mouth  of 
Wal-la-wal-la  river;  perhaps  one  of  the  greatest  instances 
of  honesty  ever  known  among  Indians.  Some  hunters 
went  on  ahead,  and  having  collected  our  horses,  we 
found  one  missing;  some  of  the  men  went  to  look  for 
him,  and  brought  him  back.  We  then  continued  our 
journey  up  this  branch;  and  saw  to  our  right  a  range  of 
hills  covered  with  timber  and  snow,  not  more  than  ten 
miles  distant.  We  went  fifteen  miles  and  encamped  on 
the  north  fork,  the  creek  having  forked  about  two  miles 
below  our  encampment.  The  south  fork  is  the  largest, 
and  from  its  course  is  supposed  to  issue  from  those  snow 
topped  hills  on  our  right.  In  the  evening  our  hunters 
joined  us,  and  had  killed  only  one  beaver  and  an  otter. 
The  three  Indians  remained  with  us  all  day;  and  at  night 
we  set  three  steel  traps,  there  being  a  great  many  beaver 
gigns  on  this  branch. 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  191 

Saturday  3.  We  had  a  wet  uncomfortable  morning, 
and  when  the  horses  were  collected  one  was  found  mis- 
sing, and  one  of  our  hunters  went  back  after  him,  while 
the  rest  of  us  continued  our  journey.  This  morning  our 
guide  and  the  three  other  Indians  went  on  ahead.  We 
continued  our  route  about  ten  miles,  when  we  struck  a 
creek,  having  left  the  other  entirely  to  our  right;  and 
halted.  Our  hunters  came  up  with  the  horse.  The 
wind  was  very  high  this  forenoon,  and  rather  cold  for  the 
season;  with  some  rain.  We  continued  about  two  hours 
and  eat  the  last  of  our  dried  meat;  and  are  altogether 
without  other  provisions,  as  our  stock  of  dogs  is  exhaust- 
ed, and  we  can  kill  no  game  in  these  plains.  In  the 
evening  we  met  a  chief  and  nine  of  his  men,  who  ap- 
peared glad  to  see  us.  We  encamped  on  a  small  branch 
or  spring,  as  it  was  too  far  to  go  over  the  hills.  The 
Indians  say  we  can  get  over  to-morrow  by  noon.  The 
wind  continued  to  blow  hard  and  some  snow  showers  fell 
in  the  afternoon* 

Sunday  4.  We  had  a  severe  frost  last  night;  and  the 
morning  was  cold  and  clear.  We  were  early  on  our 
march  over  a  handsome  plain;  and  came  to  another 
creek,  which  we  kept  down  until  we  came  to, Lewis's 
river,  some  distance  below  the  forks  of  Koos-koos-ke; 
where  we  halted  at  an  Indian  lodge,  and  could  get  noth- 
ing to  eat,  except  some  bread  made  of  a  kind  of  roots  I 
was  unacquainted  with.  We  had,  however,  a  dog,  which 
we  bought  from  the  Indians,  who  met  us  last  night;  but 
this  was  a  scanty  allowance  for  thirty  odd  hungry  men. 
We  remained  here  about  two  hours,  got  a  dog,  and  pro- 
ceeded up  the  south  side  of  Lewis's  river,  about  three 
miles,  when  we  met  with  one  of  our  old  chiefs,  who  had 
come  down  with  us  last  fall;  and  who  advised  us  to  cross 
the  river,  as  the  best  road  is  on  the  north  side.  We 
t  there  fore  were  occupied  in  crossing,  during  the  remainder 
'  of  the  day  as  we  could  raise  but  four  small  canoes  from 
the  natives  at  this  place.  We,  however,  by  dark  got  all 
safe  over,  and  encamped  on  the  north  side,  accompanied 
by  a  great  many  of  the  natives,  who  appear  a  friendly 
and  well  disposed  people. 


192  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 


CHAPTER   XX. 

Monday  5.  We  had  a  fine  morning,  and  proceeded 
on  early,  accompanied  by  our  old  chief  and  a  number  of 
the  natives.  About  10  o'clock  we  passed  the  forks,  and 
kept  along  the  north  side  of  Koos-koos-ke;  at  noon  we 
halted  at  three  lodges  of  Indians,  where  we  got  three 
dogs  and  some  roots.  We  also  got  one  of  our  horses, 
which  we  had  left  here  last  fall  in  the  care  of  the  old 
chief  who  is  now  with  us-  and  says  that  the  Snake  guide, 
who  deserted  us  last  fall,  stole  and  took  two  of  our  horses 
with  him.  We  remained  here  about  an  hour,  and  then 
continued  our  journey;  came  to  a  large  lodge  of  the 
natives,  at  the  mouth  of  a  creek,  where  we  encamped. 
This  lodge  is  built  much  after  the  form  of  the  Virginia 
fodder  houses;  is  about  fifty  yards  long,  and  contains 
twenty  families.  We  here  could  get  no  provisions  but 
shap-a-leel  and  roots. 

Tuesday  6.  This  was  a  cloudy  wet  morning;  and 
we  stayed  in  our  camp.  Captain  Lewis  and  Capt.  Clark 
acted  as  physicians  to  the  sick  of  the  village  or  lodge, 
for  which  they  gave  us  a  small  horse,  that  we  killed  and 
eat,  as  we  had  no  other  meat  of  any  kind.  We  contin- 
ed  here  until  about  3  o'clock,  when  we  started  and  went 
on  about  nine  miles,  and  encamped  close  to  a  lodge  of 
the  natives. 

Wednesday  7.  This  was  a  fine  morning,  and  we 
continued  here  till  after  breakfast,  when  we  proceeded  on 
about  four  miles  to  another  Indian  lodge,  at  the  mouth  of 
a  small  creek,  where  we  had  to  cross  the  river  again,  in 
order  to  get  to  a  better  road.  At  this  lodge  the  natives 
found  two  canisters  of  ammunition,  which  we  had  buried 
last  fall  on  our  way  down,  and  which  they  took  care  of 
and  returned  to  us  safe.  All  the  Indians  from  the  Rocky 
Mountains  to  the  falls  of  Columbia,  are  an  honest,  ingen- 
ious and  well  disposed  people ;  but  from  the  falls  to  the 
seacoast,  and  along  it,  they  are  a  rascally,  thieving  set. 
We  were  here  detained  about  three  hours  in  crossing,  as 
we  had  but  one  canoe  to  transport  ourselves  and  baggage. 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  193 

We  then  proceeded  over  a  large  hill  and  struck  a  small 
creek,  about  five  miles  below  the  place,  where  we  made 
our  canoes  in  October  last.  Here  we  encamped  for  the 
night,  accompanied  by  two  Indians,  one  of  which  can 
speak  the  Sho-sho-ne  or  Snake  language.  We  will 
therefore  be  able  to  hold  some  conversation  with  the 
natives  in  this  part  of  the  country,  as  our  squaw  is  of  the 
Snake  nation. 

Thursday  8.  The  morning  of  this  day  was  pleasant; 
and  we  remained  here  some  time,  to  endeavor  to  kill 
some  deer;  and  the  hunters  were  sent  out.  Here  some 
of  the  natives  came  to  our  camp,  and  informed  us,  ' 
that  we  could  not  cross  the  mountains  for  a  moon  and  a 
half;  as  the  snow  was  too  deep,  and  no  grass  for  our 
horses  to  subsist  on.  We  have  the  mountains  in  view 
from  this  place,  all  covered  white  with  snow.  At  noon 
our  hunters  came  in  and  had  killed  four  deer  and  some 
pheasants.  About  3  o'clock  we  continued  our  journey; 
passed  over  a  very  high  hill,  and  encamped  on  a  small 
run;  where  we  met  our  other  old  chief,  who  went 
down  the  river  with  us  last  fall.  He  told  us  that  his 
men  had  found  our  saddles,  where  we  had  hid  them,  and 
that  he  had  them  safe.  He  also  gave  us  an  account  of 
thirty-six  of  our  horses,  and  where  they  were. 

Friday  9.  This  was  a  cloudy  morning;  some  hunters 
went  out,  and  we  proceeded  on  for  about  six  miles,  when 
we  came  to  the  old  chief's  lodge,  where  his  family  is 
encamped  to  gather  roots.  We  have  now  got  into  a  part 
of  the  country  where  timber  is  plenty,  chiefly  pitch  pine. 

Between  the  great  falls  of  the  Columbia  and  this  place, 
we  saw  more  horses,  than  I  ever  before  saw  in  the  same 
space  of  country.  They  are  not  of  the  largest  size  of 
horses,  but  very  good  and  active.  At  noon  two  of  the 
Indians  went  to  look  for  our  horses,  and  the  old  chief 
who  with  one  of  our  men  who  knew  where  some  powder 
and  ball  was  buried,  went  to  bring  our  packsaddles.  In 
the  evening  they  all  returned  with  21  horses  and  about 
as  many  packsaddles.  Our  horses  are  generally  in  good 
order.  Our  hunters  also  returned  but  had  killed  nothing. 

Saturday  10.     At  dark  last  night  the  weather  became 
13 


194  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

cloudy  and  it  rained  about  an  hour  when  the  rain  turned 
to  snow,  and  it  continued  Snowing  all  night.  In  the 
morning  the  weather  became  clear.  Where  we  are  lying 
in  the  plains  the  snow  is  about  five  inches  deep;  and 
amidst  snow  and  frost  we  have  nothing  whatever  to  eat. 
Without  breakfast  we  started  to  go  to  a  village  of  the 
natives,  who  live  on  a  branch  of  the  river,  about  a  south 
course  from  this  place.  We  traveled  through  the  snow 
about  12  miles,  and  then  went  down  a  long  steep  descent 
to  the  branch  where  the  village  is  situated.  When  we 
were  about  half  ways  down  the  hill  there  was  not  a  par- 
ticle of  snow  nor  the  least  appearance  of  it.  It  was 
about  3  o'clock  when  we  arrived  at  the  village,  and  the 
Commanding  Officers,  held  a  conversation  with  the 
natives,  who  informed  them  that- they  had  not  more  pro- 
visions and  roots,  than  they  wanted  for  themselves. 
They,  however,  divided  their  stock  with  us;  and  told  us 
what  they  had  given  was  all  they  could  spare;  but  drove 
up  some  horses  and  told  us  to  shoot  one,  which  we  did. 
They  then  offered  another,  but  that  was  reserved  for 
another  time,  and  we  dressed  the  one  we  had  killed;  and 
in  our  situation  find  it  very  good  eating.  We  remained 
here  all  night.  One  of  the  hunters  who  had  gone  on 
before  the  party  did  not  join  us  yet. 

Sunday  11.  This  was  a  fine  clear  morning;  and  we 
lay  here  all  day.  The  natives  treat  us  very  well;  the 
Officers  practice  as  physicians  among  their  sick,  and  they 
gave  them  a  very  handsome  mare  and  colt.  About  12 
o'clock  our  hunter  came  in  and  brought  two  -deer  with 
him.  We  now  find  a  great  many  more  men  among  the 
Indians  than  when  we  went  down  last  fall;  and  several 
chiefs,  which  had  then  been  out  at  war.  In  the  evening 
the  natives  brought  in  six  more  of  our  horses. 

Monday  12.  We  had  another  fine  morning  and 
remained  here  also  to  day.  The  natives  in  the  course  of 
the  day  gave  us  four  horses,  one  of  which  we  killed  to 
eat.  We  also  got  bread  made  of  roots,  which  the  natives 
call  Ca-was,  and  sweet  roots  which  they  call  Com- mas. 
In  the  afternoon  they  brought  three  more  of  our  old 
stock  of  horses. 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  195 

Tuesday  13.  We  had  a  fine  morning  with  white 
frost.  Having  collected  our  horses  we  found  we  had  60 
and  all  pretty  good  except  four,  which  were  studs  and 
had  sore  backs.  At  noon  we  proceeded  down  the 
branch,  which  has  a  good  deal  of  cotton  wood,  willow 
and  cherry  trees  on  its  banks ;  and  is  a  bold  rapid  I  stream 
about  15  yards  wide.  We  kept  down  the  branch  about 
four  miles;  and  then  came  to  the  river  where  it  passes 
through  a  beautiful  plain.  Here  we  halted  to  wait  for 
a  canoe,  which  we  expected  that  some  of  the  natives 
would  bring  up  the  river,  to  assist  us  in  crossing,  when  we 
intend  to  encamp  until  the  snow  shall  have  sufficiently 
melted  to  admit  of  our  crossing  the  mountains.  At  dark 
the  canoe  came;  but  it  being  too  late  to  cross  we  encamp- 
ed on  the  south  side. 

Wednesday  14.  The  morning  was  pleasant  with 
some  white  frost.  Three  hunters  went  over  very  early 
to  the  north  side  of  the  river.  All  the  rest  of  the  men 
were  employed  in  collecting  our  horses  and  taking  over 
the  baggage.  About  noon  we  got  all  the  horses  and 
baggage  over  safe;  and  met  with  one  of  our  hunters,  who 
had  killed  two  bears,  some  distance  off.  So  two  men 
were  dispatched  with  him  to  bring, in  the  meat;  and  we 
set  about  forming  a  camp  at  the  remains  of  an  ancient 
village  on  the  north  side  of  the  Koos-koos-ke  river.  We 
were  accompanied  by  a  number  of  the  natives,  one  of 
whom  gave  us  a  horse;  and  three  more  of  our  old  stock 
were  brought  in  by  them.  In  the  afternoon  we  had  an 
operation  performed  on  seven  of  our  horses,  to  render 
them  more  peaceable;  which  was  done  by  one  of  the 
natives  upon  all  but  one.  In  the  evening  the  men  came 
in  with  the  meat  of  the  two  bears;  and  also  our  other 
hunters  who  had  killed  three  more,  all  of  the  grizly 
kind.  We  gave  some  of  the  meat  to  the  natives  at  our 
camp,  who  cooked  it  in  their  own  way;  which  was  done 
in  the  following  manner.  They  first  collected '  some 
stones  and  heated  them,  upon  which  they  placed  a  part 
of  the  meat,  and  upon  the  meat  some  small  brush,  and 
so  alternately  meat  and  brush,  until  all  the  meat  was  on  ; 
when  the  whole  was  covered  with  brush  and  lastly  with 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  197 

earth;  so  that  the  heap  or  mass  had  something  of  the 
appearance  of  a  small  coalpit  on  fire.  An  hour  and  a 
half  was  necessary  to  cook  it  in  this  way.  The  natives 
remained  at  our  camp  all  night. 

Thursday  15.  This  was  a  fine  morning,  and  some 
hunters  went  out  early.  The  rest  of  the  party  were 
engaged  making  places  of  shelter,  to  defend  them  from 
the  stormy  weather.  Some  had  small  sails  to  cover  their 
little  hovels,  and  others  had  to  make  frames  and  cover 
them  with  grass.  Around  our  camp  the  plains  have  the 
appearance  of  a  meadow  before  it  is  mowed,  and  affords 
abundance  of  food  for  our  horses.  Here  we  expect  to 
remain  a  month  before  we  can  cross  the  mountains. 
The  natives  stayed  all  day  at  our  camp;  and  one  of  them 
had  round  his  neck  a  scalp  of  an  Indian,  with  six  thumbs 
and  four  fingers  of  other  Indians  he  had  killed  in  battle, 
of  the  Sko-sho-ne,  or  Snake  nation.  The  nation  here 
the  Cho-co-nish,  is  very  numerous,  as  well  as  the  other. 
These  nations  have  been  long  at  war  and  destroyed  a 
great  many  of  each  other  in  a  few  years  past. 

From  the  Mandan  nation  to  the  Pacific  ocean,  the 
arms  of  the  Indian,  are  generally  bows  and  arrows,  and 
the  war-mallet.  The  war-mallet  is  a  club,  with  a  large 
head  of  wood  or  stone;  those  of  stone  are  generally 

NOTE — "The  warriors,  for  such  it  is  only  who  suffer  this  punish- 
ment, now  perform  in  a  more  prolix  manner  this  sad  solemnity- 
They  recount  with  an  audible  voice  all  the  brave  action  they  have 
performed,  and  pride  themselves  in  the  number  of  enemies  they 
have  killed  In  this  rehearsal  they  spare  not  even  their  tormentors, 
but  strive  by  every  provoking  tale  they  can  invent,  to  irritate  and 
insult  them.  Sometimes  this  has  the  desired  effect,  and  the  suffer- 
ers are  despatched  sooner  than  they  otherwise  would  have  been. 

There  are  many  other  methods  which  the  Indians  make  use  of 
to  put  their  prisoners  to  death;  but  these  are  only  occasional;  that 
of  burning  is  most  generally  used. 

This  method  of  tormenting  their  enemies  is  considered  by  the 
Indians  as  productive  of  more  than  one  beneficial  consequence.  It 
satiates,  in  a  greater  degree,  that  diabolical  lust  of  revenge,  which 
is  the  predominant  passion  in  the  breast  of  every  individual  of 
every  tribe;  and  it  gives  the  growing  warriors  an  early  propensity 
to  that  cruelty  and  thirst  of  blood,  which  is  so  necessary  a  qualifi- 
cation for  such  as  would  be  thoroughly  skilled  in  their  savage  art 
of  war." 


198  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

covered  with  leather,  and  fastened  to  the  end  of  the  club 
with  thongs  or  straps  of  leather  and  the  sinews  of  ani- 
mals.* 

In  the  afternoon  two  of  our  hunters  came  in  and  had 
killed  nothing  but  some  grouse,  four  more  continued  out. 

Friday  16.  The  morning  was  cloudy  and  some  rain 
fell ;  but  in  about  two  hours  it  cleared  away  and  we  had 
a  fine  day.  An  Indian  performed  the  quieting  operation 
on  two  more  of  our  horses.  In  the  evening  two  more  of 
our  hunters  came  in,  and  brought  with  them  two  deer 
and  some  ducks.  Two  of  the  hunters  still  remained  out. 
The  natives  all  left  our  camp  this  evening. 

Saturday  17.  We  had  a  cloudy  wet  morning  and 
some  light  rain  all  day.  Our  other  two  hunters  came  in 
and  had  killed  two  large  bears.  They  said  it  snowed  on 
the  hills,  when  it  rained  at  our  camp  in  the  valley. 

Sunday  18.  The  morning  was  cloudy,  but  without 
rain;  and  ten  of  the  party  turned  out  to  hunt.  None  of 
the  natives  visited  us  yesterday,  or  to  day ;  until  about 
2  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  when  five  came  that  1  had 
not  seen  before.  They  remained  about  an  hour  and  had 
some  eye  water  put  into  their  eyes  which  were  sore; 
after  which  they  went  away,  and  an  old  man  and  his 
wife  came  for  some  medicine,  as  the  old  woman  was 
sick.  In  the  evening  four  hunters  came  in  and  had  killed 
nothing,  but  some  grouse. 

Monday  19.  We  had  a  cloudy  w?et  morning.  The 
old  Indian  and  his  wife  staid  all  night  and  got  more 
medicine.  A  party  of  the  men  went  to  some  Indian 
lodges  about  four  miles  up  the  river  to  buy  roots ;  and  in 
the  afternoon  returned  with  a  good  many  of  them.  Seve- 

*  The  publisher  has  seen  one  of  these  stone  heads,  lately  found 
at  Hatfield,  the  farm  of  Mr.  David  Davis,  three  miles  from  Pitts- 
burgh, on  the  Allegheny  river.  It  is  of  a  hard  species  of  stone 
and  weighs  seven  ounces.  It  is  nearly  spherical  with  a  groove  cut 
round  to  hold,  as  is  supposed,  the  strap  by  which  it  is  fastened  to 
the  club.  Mr.  Gass  says  it  is  exactly  like  those  he  had  seen  to  the 
westward.  There  is  perhaps  nothing  which  in  form  it  so  much 
resembles  as  a  common  round  pincushion.  In  close  combat  the 
war-mallet,  when  skillfully  wielded,  must  be  a  destructive  and 
deadly  weapon. 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  199 

ral  of  the  natives  came  to  our  camp  with  the  men  and 
in  the  evening  all  went  away.  We  got  another  of  our 
old  stock  of  horses;  and  have  now  all  we  left  except 
three;  two  of  which  the  old  Snake  guide  took  wilh  him. 
At  dark  two  of  our  hunters  came  in  but  had  not  killed 
any  thing.  The  day  was  fair  during  the  whole  of  the 
afternoon. 

Tuesday  20.  We  again  had  a  very  wet  morning. 
Two  more  of  our  hunters  came  in,  but  had  killed  nothing, 
It  continued  raining  till  about  noon,  when  we  had  fair 
weather  with  some  sunshine.  The  hunters  said  it  also 
snowed  on  the  hill  to-day,  where  they  were  hunting, 
while  it  rained  at  our  camp.  About  2  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon,  another  hunter  came  in  and  brought  a  deer 
he  had  killed.  In  the  afternoon  four  of  our  hunters 
again  went  out.  In  the  evening  there  were  some  light 
showers. 

Wednesday  21.  This  was  a  cloudy  morning.  Two 
more  hunters  went  out;  and  some  men  set  about  making 
a  canoe  to  fish  in,  when  the  salmon  came  up,  as  we  do 
not  expect  to  leave  this  place  before  the  middle  of  June. 
To  day  we  made  a  small  lodge  of  poles  and  covered  it 
with  grass,  for  Captain  Lewis  and  Captain  Clarke,  as 
their  tent  is  not  sufficient  to  defend  them  from  the  rain. 
At  10  o'clock  the  weather  became  clear,  and  in  the  even- 
ing, was  cold. 

Thursday  22.  We  had  a  fine  clear  morning  with 
some  white  frost.  At  3  o'clock  five  of  our  hunters  came 
in  with  five  deer;  previous  to  which  we  had  killed  a  fine 
colt.  In  the  afternoon  we  saw  a  great  number  of  the 
natives  on  horseback  pursuing  a  deer  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river.  They  drove  it  so  hard  that  it  was 
obliged  to  take  the  water,  when  some  of  our  men  went 
down  the  bank  and  shot  it,  and  the  natives  got  on  a  raft 
and  caught  it.  These  Indians  are  the  most  active  horse- 
men I  ever  saw:  they  will  gallop  their  horses  over  pre- 
cipices, that  I  should  not  think  of  riding  over  at  all. 

The  frames  of  their  saddles  are  made  of  wood  nicely 
jointed,  and  then  covered  with  raw  skins,  which  when 
they  become  dry,  bind  every  part  tight,  and  keep  the 


200  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

joints  in  their  places.  The  saddles  rise  very  high  before 
and  behind,  in  the  manner  of  the  saddles  of  the  Span- 
iards, from  whom  they  no  doubt  received  the  form;  and 
also  obtained  their  breed  of  horses.  When  the  Indians 
are  going  to  mount  they  throw  their  buffalo  robes  over 
the  saddles  and  ride  on  them,  as  the  saddles  would  other- 
wise be  too  hard. 


CHAPTER   XXI. 

Friday  23.  We  again  had  a  fine  morning.  One  of 
our  sergeants  shot  a  deer  at  a  lick  close  to  our  camp,  and 
wounded  it  very  bad,  but  it  got  to  the  river  and  swam 
over.  Two  young  Indians  who  had  been  at  our  camp 
all  night,  then  mounted  their  horses,  swam  over  and 
drove  it  back;  and  we  killed  it  and  gave  them  half  of  it. 
The  river  is  about  two  hundred  yards  wide  and  cold  and 
rapid.  In  the  afternoon  all  the  hunters  came  in  but  had 
killed  nothing  more. 

Saturday  24.  This  was  another  fine  morning,  and 
two  hunters  went  out.  One  of  the  rcen  that  was  sick, 
still  keeps  unwell,  with  a  bad  pain  in  his  back;  and  is  in 
a  helpless  state.  Yesterday  we  gave  him  an  Indian 
sweat  and  he  is  some  better  to-day. 

Sunday  25.  This  was  a  cloudy  morning,  and  some 
light  showers  of  rain  fell.  Five  more  hunters  went  out 
to-day.  In  the  evening  of  yesterday  two  of  the  natives 
brought  an  Indian  to  our  camp,  who  had  lost  the  use  of 
his  limbs,  to  see  if  the  officers  could  cure  him,  and  to 
day  we  gave  him  a  sweat.  Our  interpreter's  child  has 
been  very  sick,  but  is  getting  better.  In  the  afternoon 
the  two  hunters  who  went  out  yesterday  returned ;  but 
had  not  killed  any  thing.  The  weather  became  clear 
and  we  had  a  fine  evening,  and  three  more  hunters  went 
out. 

Monday  26.     This  day  was  fine  and  pleasant,  and  we 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  201 

finished  our  canoe  and  put  her  into  the  water.  In  the 
afternoon  two  hunters  came  in,  but  had  not  killed  any 
thing:  they  had  procured  some  roots  at  a  village  about 
fourteen  miles  up  the  river.  Our  stock  of  provisions  is 
exhausted,  and  we  have  nothing  to  eat  but  some  roots, 
which  we  get  from  the  natives  at  a  very  dear  rate. 

Tuesday  27.  The  morning  was  fair  and  pleasant, 
and  several  of  our  men  went  to  the  villages  around  us  to 
procure  roots.  These  roots  are  a  good  diet,  but  in  gen- 
eral we  do  not  relish  them  so  well  as  meat.  We  there- 
fore killed  another  horse  to  dayr  which  one  of  the  natives 
gave  us  sometime  ago  for  that  purpose.  He  was  so  wild 
and  vicious  that  we  could  not  manage  him,  or  do  any 
thing  with  him. 

Our  sick  man  is  getting  some  better,  and  the  interpre- 
ter's child  is  recovering  fast.  The  Indian,  that  we  have 
under  cure,  had  another  sweat  to  day;  and  our  horses, 
that  have  had«the  quieting  operation  performed  on  them 
are  all  mending.  In  the  afternoon  some  rain  fell,  and 
three  of  our  hunters  came  in,  and  brought  with  them 
five  deer;  they  had  killed:  three  men  also  came  in  from 
the  villages  and  brought  a  good  supply  of  roots ;  six  yet 
remaining  out. 

Wednesday  28.  This  was  a  cloudy  foggy  morning. 
Some  hunters  went  out  this  morning,  and  in  the  afternoon 
three  of  them  came  in  with  eight  deer;  at  the  same  time 
three  more  of  our  men  returned  from  the  villages. 

Thursday  29.  The  morning  was  cloudy  and  wet,  and 
the  river  is  rising  very  fast,  which  gives  us  hopes  that 
the  snow  is  leaving  the  mountains.  At  10  o'clock  the 
river  ceased  rising  and  the  weather  became  clear. 

Friday  30.  The  morning  was  fine,  with  a  little  fog. 
Two  of  our  men  in  a  canoe  attempting  to  swim  their 
horses  over  the  river,  struck  the  canoe  against  a  tree, 
and  she  immediately  sunk;  but  they  got  on  shore,  with 
the  loss  of  three  blankets,  a  blanket-coat,  and  some  arti- 
cles of  merchandize  they  had  with  them  to  exchange  for 
roots.  The  loss  of  these  blankets  is  the  greatest  which 
hath  happened  to  any  individuals  since  we  began  our 
voyage,  as  there  are  only  three  men  in  the  party,  who 


202  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

have  more  than  a  blanket  apiece.  The  river  is  so  high 
that  the  trees  stand  some  distance  in  the  water.  In  the 
afternoon  one  of  our  hunters  came  in,  who  with  another 
had  killed  three  deer,  which  one  of  them  stayed  to  take 
care  of  as  their  horses  had  left  them. 

Saturday  31.  We  had  a  fine  clear  morning  with  a 
heavy  dew.  The  hunters  went  out  with  two  horses  for 
the  venison ;  and  two  men  went  over  the  river  to  the  villa- 
ges. About  noon  a  deer  was  seen  swimming  the  river 
and  some  of  our  men  killed  it.  Our  canoe  still  lies  under 
water  at  the  opposite  shore,  but  we  have  a  small  Indian 
canoe,  that  serves  to  cross  in.  In  the  afternoon  the  two 
men  came  from  the  village  with  some  of  the  natives,  and 
one  of  our  old  stock  of  horses;  which  is  the  last,  except  the 
two  which  they  assure  us  the  old  Snake  guide  took.  In 
the  evening  the  weather  became  cloudy,  and  we  had 
some  rain  with  sharp  thunder  and  lightening.  The  two 
hunters  came  in  with  the  venison.  -, .  ;j 

Sunday,  June  1,  1806.  We  had  a  fine  morning  after 
some  light  showers  of  rain  during  the  night.  Since  last 
evening  the  river  rose  eighteen  inches.  Two  hunters 
went  out  this  morning,  and  some  of  the  natives  came  to 
see  us.  The  sick  Indian  is  getting  much  better.  The 
officers  got  some  bear  skins  from  the  Indians,  that  are 
almost  as  white  as  a  blanket.  They  say  that  the  bears 
from  which  they  get  these  skins  are  a  harmless  kind,  and 
not  so  bold  and  ferocious  as  the  -grizly  and  brown  bear. 

Monday  2.  The  morning  was  cloudy,  and  six  of  the 
men  went  out  to  hunt.  About  noon  three  men,  who  had 
gone  over  to  Lewis's  river,  about  two  and  a  half  days' 
journey  distant,  to  get  some  fish,  returned  with  a  few 
very  good  salmon,  and  some  roots  which  they  bought  at 
the  different  villages  of  the  natives,  which  they  passed. 
One  of  these  men  got  two  Spanish  dollars  from  an  Indian 
for  an  old  razor.  They  said  they  got  the  dollars  from 
about  a  Snake  Indian's  neck,  they  had  killed  some  time 
ago.  There  are  several  dollars  among,  these  people 
which  they  get  in  some  way.  We  suppose  the  Snake 
Indians,  some  of  whom  do  not  live  very  far  from 
Ne  w  Mexico,  get  them  from  the  Spaniards  in  that  quar- 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  203 

ter.  The  Snake  Indians  also  get  horses  from  the  Span- 
iards. The  men  had  a  very  disagreeable  trip  as  the 
roads  were  mountainous  and  slippery.  They  saw  a 
number  of  deer,  and  of  the  ibex  or  big-horn. 

Tuesday  3.  This  was  a  cloudy  morning  with  a  few 
drops  of  rain;  and  there  were  some  light  showers  during 
the  forenoon  at  intervals.  The  river  rises  in  the 
night  and  falls  in  the  day  time;  which  is  occasioned  by 
the  snow  melting  by  the  heat  of  the  sun  on  the  moun- 
tains, which  are  too  distant  for  the  snow  water  to  reach 
this  place  until  after  night.  In  the  evening  three  hun- 
ters came  in  with  the  meat  of  five  deer  and  a  small  bear. 
Several  of  the  natives  continued  at  our  camp. 

Wednesday  4.  It  rained  slowly  almost  all  last  night, 
and  for  some  time  this  morning.  The  river  fell  consi- 
derably yesterday,  and  in  the  night  rose  only  an  inch 
and  an  half.  At  noon  one  of  our  hunters  came  in  with 
two  deer  he  had  killed.  The  afternoon  was  clear  and 
pleasant. 

Thursday  5.  This  was  a  fine  pleasant  morning  with 
heavy  dew.  In  the  afternoon  four  hunters  came  in  with 
the  meat  of  five  more  deer,  and  a  bear.  An  Indian  came 
with  them,  who  had  been  part  of  the  way  over  the  moun- 
tains; but  found  the  road  too  bad  and  the  snow  too  deep 
to  cross ;  so  we  are  obliged  to  remain  where  we  are  some- 
time longer. 

Friday  6.  The  morning  was  pleasant,  and  Captain 
Clarke  and  five  of  the  party  went  over  the  river  to  buy 
some  roots  at  the  villages,  and  in  the  evening  returned 
with  a  good  supply  accompanied  by  some  of  the  natives. 

Saturday  7.  We  had  a  cloudy  morning  with  a  few 
drops  of  rain.  I  went  over  with  five  of  our  party  to  the 
village,  on  the  other  side  of  the  river;  and  while  we  were 
going  some  snow  fell.  The  greater  part  of  the  natives 
were  out  hunting.  In  the  evening  we  all  returned  to 
camp,  except  two,  who  remained  at  the  village.  Some 
of  the  natives  "again  came  to  visit  us,  one  of  whom  gave 
a  horse  to  one  of  our  men,  who  is  very  fond  of  conver- 
sing with  them  and  of  learning  their  language. 

Sunday  8.      This  was  a  pleasant   morning;   and  our 


204     JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

two  men  came  over  from  the  village,  and  a  hunter,  who 
had  been  out,  returned  without  killing  any  thing.  Seve- 
ral of  the  natives  still  stay  about  our  camp,  and  are  of 
opinion  we  cannot  cross  the  mountains  for  some  time  yet. 
We,  however,  mean  to  remove  a  short  distance  to  where 
the  hunting  is  better. 

Monday  9.  This  was  a  fine  pleasant  day.  We 
caught  all  our  horses  and  hoppled  them,  so  that  we  might 
get  them  easily  to-morrow.  We  also  exchanged  some 
mares  with  young  colts,  and  some  of  the  horses  who  had 
not  got  quite  well,  for  others  more  capable  of  bearing  the 
fatigue  of  crossing  the  mountains. 

Tuesday  10.  We  collected  all  our  horses,  but  one, 
and  set  out  accompanied  by  several  of  the  natives,  travel- 
ed about  12  miles  and  arrived  at  what  we  call  the  Com- 
mas flat,  where  we  first  met  the  natives  after  crossing 
the  Rocky  Mountains  last  fall.  Here  we  encamped  and 
some  hunters  went  out.  The  com-mas  grow  in  great 
abundance  on  .this  plain ;  and  at  this  time  looks  beautiful, 
being  in  full  bloom  with  flowers  of  a  pale  blue  color.  At 
night  our  hunters  came  in  arid  had  killed  one  deer. 

Wednesday  11.  We  had  a  fine  morning  with  some 
white  frost.  Several  of  the  men  turned  out  to  hunt;  and 
returned  at  noon  having  killed  a  bear  and  two  deer.  In 
this  plain  there  are  the  most  strawberry  vines  I  ever  saw, 
and  now  all  in  blossom.  This  plain  contains  about  two 
thousand  acres,  and  is  surrounded  with  beautiful  pine 
timber  of  different  kinds.  The  soil  is  very  good;  the 
underwood  among  the  timber  chiefly  service-berry  and 
goose-berry  bushes.  In  the  evening  several  of  the  men 
started,  with  an  intention  of  encamping  out,  to  hunt;  and 
one  went  back  to  our  late  camp  to  look  for  the  horse, 
which  had  been  left  behind.  The  natives  all  left  us  and 
we  remained  in  quietness  by  ourselves. 

Thursday  12.  We  had  a  fine  lovely  morning  with  a 
heavy  dew.  I  went  out  with  some  of  the  party  to  hunt; 
about  8  o'clock  the  musketoes  became  very  troublesome; 
and  at  ten  all  came  in  without  any  success.  About  the 
same  time  the  man,  who  had  gone  back  for  the  horse 
returned  with  him.  About  an  hour  after  four  hunters, 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  205 

who  had  been  out  during  the  night  came  in ;  three  of  them 
had  been  without  success,  but  the  other  brought  in  two 
deer.  There  are  a  good  many  deer  here,  and  some 
bears,  but  they  are  very  wild,  as  they  are  much  pursued 
by  the  natives.  There  is  no  game  of  any  other  kind, 
except  squirrels  and  some  other  small  animals.  The 
squirrels  are  about  the  size  of  our  common  grey  squir- 
rels, and  very  handsome.  They  are  of  a  brown  grey 
color,  beautifully  speckeled  with  small  brown  spots,  and 
burrow  in  the  ground.  We  killed  several  of  them  since 
we  came  to  this  camp.  The  magpie  is  also  plenty  here,  and 
woodpeckers  of  a  different  kind  from  any  I  had  before 
seen.  They  are  about  the  size  of  a  common  red-headed 
woodpecker;  but  are  all  black  except  the  belly  and  neck, 
where  the  ends  of  the  feathers  are  tipped  with  a  deep 
red,  but  this  tipping  extends  to  so  short  a  distance  on  the 
feathers,  that  at  a  distance  the  bird  looks  wholly  black. 
In  the  afternoon  one  of  the  natives  came  to  our  camp, 
and  one  of  the  two  hunters  that  were  out,  returned  but 
had  killed  nothing.  In  the  evening  some  hunters  went 
out  with  intention  to  stay  all  night.  The  Indian  who 
came  to  our  camp  said  he  had  a  notion  to  cross  the  moun- 
tains with  us. 

Friday  13.  This  was  a  fine  morning,  and  a  hunter 
or  two  went  out.  The  Indian  exchanged  horses  with 
one  of  our  men,  whose  horse  had  not  recovered,  and  was 
unable  to  cross  the  mountains;  and  then  went  home  to 
the  village.  At  noon  two  of  our  men  took  their  loads  and 
went  on  ahead  about  eight  miles  to  a  small  prairie  to 
hunt  until  we  should  come  up.  During  the  afternoon  the 
men  who  went  out  yesterday  to  hunt  returned  with  eight 
deer.  In  the  evening  the  weather  became  cloudy.  The 
musketoes  are  very  troublesome. 

Saturday  14.  We  had  a  cloudy  morning.  Some 
hunters  again  went  out;  at  10  o'clock  one  came  in  with 
a  deer;  and  in  the  evening  the  rest  of  them,  but  they  had 
not  killed  any  thing. 

Sunday  15.  This  was  a  cloudy  wet  morning  with 
some  thunder.  We  left  Com-mas  flat  to  attempt  to  cross 
the  mountains;  and  had  sixty-six  horses,  all  very  good. 


206      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

We  ascended  a  high  mountain  with  a  good  deal  of  diffi- 
culty, as  the  path  was  very  slippery,  but  got  over  safe  to 
a  small  prairie,  where  the  two  men,  who  had  gone  on 
ahead  had  killed  two  deer  and  hung  them  up.  We  took 
the  meat,  and  proceeded  down  the  hill  and  found  the 
hunters,  who  had  killed  another  deer.  We  halted  at  a 
creek  and  took  dinner;  then  proceeded  over  a  very  diffi- 
cult road  on  account  of  the  fallen  timber.  We  had  rain 
at  intervals  during  the  forenoon,  but  the  afternoon  was 
clear.  We  encamped  in  a  small  glade  where  there  was 
plenty  of  grass  for  the  horses. 

Monday  16.  We  had  a  pleasant  morning,  and  renew- 
ed our  journey;  went  up  a  handsome  creek  about  three 
miles,  and  then  took  to  the  hills  which  are  very  rough 
with. a  great  many  banks  of  snow,  some  of  them  four  or 
five  feet  deep.  These  banks  are  so  closely  packed  and 
condensed,  that  they  carry  our  horses,  and  are  all  in  a 
thawing  state.  We  halted  for  dinner  at  a  handsome 
stream  where  there  was  some  grass  for  our  horses;  and 
in  about  two  hours  proceeded  on  again,  and  had  some 
rain.  In  the  afternoon  we  found  the  snow  banks  more 
numerous,  extensive  and  deep:  in  some  of  them  the 
snow  was  as  much  as  eight  feet  deep.  In  the  evening 
we  came  to  Hungry  creek  (where  Captain  Clarke  killed 
a  horse  last  fall  and  left  it  for  the  party)  and  encamped, 
that  our  horses  might  get  some  grass  as  we  do  not  expect 
they  will  get  any  soon  again ;  and  there  is  not  much 
here. 

Tuesday  17.  This  was  a  cloudy  morning,  but  without 
rain.  We  early  continued  our  march;  took  down  Hun- 
gry creek  about  six  miles,  and  then  took  up  a  large 
mountain.  When  we  got  about  half  way  up  the  moun- 
tain the  ground  was  entirely  covered  with  snow  three  feet 
deep ;  and  as  we  ascended  it  still  became  deeper,  until 
we  arrived  at  the  top,  where  it  was  twelve  or  fifteen  feet 
deep;  but  it  in  general  carried  our  horses.  Here  there  was 
not  the  appearance  of  a  green  shrub,  or  any  thing  for 
our  horses  to  subsist  on ;  and  we  know  it  cannot  be  better 
for  four  days  march  even  could  we  find  the  road  or 
course,  which  appears  almost  impossible,  without  a  guide 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  207 

perfectly  acquainted  with  the  mountains.  We  therefore 
halted  to  determine  what  was  best  to  be  done,  as  it  appear- 
ed not  only  imprudent  but  highly  dangerous  to  proceed 
without  a  guide  of  any  kind.  After  remaining  about  two 
hours  we  concluded  it  would  be  most  adviseable  to  go 
back  to  some  place  where  there  was  food  for  our  horses. 
We  therefore  hung  up  our  loading  on  poles,  tied  to  and 
extended  between  trees,  covered  it  all  safe  with  deer 
skins,  and  turned  back  melancholy  and  disappointed.  At 
this  time  it  began  to  rain;  and  we  proceeded  down  to 
Hungry  creek  again;  went  up  it  about  two  miles,  and 
encamped  for  the  night  where  our  horses  could  get  some- 
thing to  eat.  The  grass  and  plants  here  are  just  putting 
out,  and  the  shrubs  budding.  It  rained  hard  during  the 
afternoon. 

Wednesday  18.  The  morning  was  cloudy  and  seve- 
al  showers  of  rain  fell  during  the  day.  We  started 
about  8  o'clock,  and  found  the  roads  very  slippery  and 
bad.  Two  men  went  on  ahead  to  the  village  to  enquire 
for  a  guide,  and  two  more  remained  to  look  for  two  horses 
that  could  not  be  found.  We  proceeded  on  with  four 
men  in  front  to  cut  some  bushes  out  of  the  path ;  but  did 
not  go  far  till  one  of  the  men  cut  himself  very  badly 
with  a  large  knife;  when  we  had  to  halt  and  bind  up  his 
wound.  We  again  went  forward,  and  in  crossing  the 
creek  the  horse  of  one  of  our  men  fell  with  him,  threw 
him  off,  hurt  his  leg  and  lost  his  blanket.  We  halted  for 
dinner  at  the  same  place  where  we  dined  on  the  16th  and 
had  a  gust  of  rain,  hail,  thunder  and  lightning,  which 
lasted  an  hour,  when  the  weather  cleared  and  we  had  a 
fine  afternoon.  We  continued  our  march  till  we  came 
to  a  small  glade  on  the  branch  of  a  creek,  where  we 
encamped,  and  some  hunters  went  out  in  the  evening; 
we  had  left  two  men  to  hunt  at  the  place  where  we  dined. 
We  found  the  musketoes  very  troublesome  on  the  creek, 
notwithstanding  the  snow  is  at  so  short  a  distance  up  the 
mountains.  At  night  our  hunters  came  to  camp,  having 
killed  nothing;  but  saw  some  large  fish  in  the  creek, 
which  they  supposed  were  salmon. 

Thursday  19.     This  was  a  fine  morning;  some  hun- 


208  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

ters  went  out  and  we  agreed  to  stay  here  all  day  that  our 
horses  might  rest  and  feed.  At  10  o'clock  our  hunters 
came  in  and  had  killed  a  deer.  Two  men  are  trying  to 
take  some  of  the  fish  with  a  gig.  At  noon  the  two  men 
who  had  been  left  at  Hungry  creek  to  look  for  the 
horses  came  up,  but  had  not  found  them:  and  with  them 
the  two  hunters,  who  were  left  at  the  place  we 
dined  yesterday ;  and  had  killed  two  deer.  In  the  even- 
ing one  of  the  largest  fish  was  caught  which  we  found  to 
be  a  salmon-trout. 

Friday  20.  This  was  a  fine  morning;  we  caught  six 
of  the  salmon-trout;  and  some  hunters  went  out.  About 
9  o'clock  one  of  them  returned  and  had  killed  a  brown 
bear.  The  musketoes  and  gnats  are  very  troublesome.- 
In  the  evening  the  other  hunters  came  in  and  had  killed 
only  one  deer. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

Saturday  21.  We  had  again  a  fine  morning;  and  we 
collected  our  horses  in  order  to  return  to  Com-mas  flat. 
We  proceeded  on  to  a  creek,  where  we  met  two  young 
Indians,  who  said  they  were  coming  to  go  over  the  moun- 
tains with  us.  We  halted  here  for  dinner;  after  which 
all  our  party  proceeded  on  to  Com-mas  flat,  except 
myself  and  two  men  who  remained  here  to  hunt.  We 
wish  to  kill  as  much  meat  as  will  serve  the  party,  until 
we  get  back  where  our  loading  was  left,  as  we  have 
plenty  of  roots  there  to  serve  us  over  the  mountains. 
One  of  our  best  horses  got  snagged  to  day,  and  was  left 
here.  The  two  Indians  remained  with  us,  and  in  the 
evening  one  of  the  men  killed  a  deer. 

Sunday  22.  We  had  a  pleasant  day.  The  two  hun- 
ters went  out  early  and  the  Indians  remained  with  me 
at  camp.  At  noon  the  hunters  came  in,  but  had  killed 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  209 

nothing  but  one  small  pheasant.  In  the  evening  they 
made  another  excursion,  but  were  unsuccessful. 

Monday  23.  We  had  again  a  fine  morning;  and  the 
men  went  out  to  hunt.  W  hile  they  were  out  the  two 
Indians  went  on.  About  10  o'clock  the  hunters  came  in 
without  having  killed  any  thing;  and  at  noon  two  men 
came  to  our  camp  with  orders  for  four  of  us  to  follow  the 
Indians,  if  they  were  gone,  until  we  should  overtake 
them,  and  get  them  to  halt  if  possible,  till  the  party 
should  come  up;  but  if  not,  to  follow  them  on  and  blaze 
the  way  after  them;  as  the  man  who  had  gone  to  inquire 
for  a  guide  had  not  returned,  and  it  was  not  known 
whether  he  would  get  one  or  not.  The  men  said  they 
had  good  luck  at  the  Com-mas  flat,  having  killed  ten 
deer  and  three  bears.  I  immediately  started  with  three 
of  the  men  after  the  Indians,  leaving  one  to  take  care  of 
the  camp,  and  the  lame  horse  and  some  more  that  were 
there.  We  proceeded  on  till  we  came  to  the  creek 
where  we  had  stayed  the  19th  and  20th,  and  overtook 
the  Indians  encamped  there,  and  encamped  with  them. 

They  had  caught  two  salmon-trout  since  they  came 
to  this  camp;  and  shortly  after  we  came,  one  of  our  men 
killed  a  duck;  and  we  remained  together  during  the  night. 

Tuesday  24.  This  was  a  cloudy  morning.  We  gave 
each  of  the  Indians  a  pair  of  moccasons,  and  they 
agreed  to  stay  to-day  and  wait  for  the  party.  One  of  our 
hunters  went  out,  but  had  no  success.  The  day  keeps 
cloudy,  and  the  musketoes  are  very  troublesome.  There 
is  also  a  small  black  fly  in  this  country,  that  so  torments 
our  horses,  that  they  can  get  no  rest,  but  when  we  make 
small  fires  to  keep  them  off.  At  noon  two  hunters  went 
on  ahead  to  a  small  creek,  to  endeavor  to  kill  some  pro- 
visions, as  we  cannot  kill  any  here;  and  unless  the  party 
come  up  to  night,  I  intend  to  go  on  with  the  Indians 
to-morrow  morning.  In  the  evening  the  party  arrived 
with  three  more  Indians,  and  we  all  encamped  together 
for  the  night. 

Wednesday  25.  There  was  a  light  shower  of  rain 
this  morning.  We  proceeded  forward  early;  and  two 
men  and  an  Indian  were  sent  ahead  to  look  for  the  horses 
14 


210  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS   AND  CLARKE 

we  left  behind  when  we  were  here  before.  At  noon  we 
halted  at  the  creek  where  two  men  were  hunting,  but 
they  had  killed  nothing.  We  here  took  dinner,  and  pro- 
ceeded on  to  Hungry  creek,  where  we  met  the  men  with 
the  horses,  and  encamped  for  the  night.  A  considerable 
quantity  of  rain  had  fallen  during  the  afternoon. 

Thursday  26.  We  had  a  foggy  morning;  proceeded 
on  early;  and  found  the  banks  of  snow  much  decreased: 
at  noon  we  arrived  at  the  place  where  we  had  left  our 
baggage  and  stores.  The  snow  here  had  sunk  twenty 
inches.  We  took  some  dinner,  but  there  was  nothing  for 
our  horses  to  eat.  We  measured  the  depth  of  the  snow 
here  and  found  it  10  feet  10  inches.  We  proceeded  over 
some  very  steep  tops  of  the  mountains  and  deep  snow; 
but  the  snow  was  not  so  deep  in  the  drafts  between  them; 
and  fortunately  we  got  in  the  evening  to  the  side  of  a 
hill  where  the  snow  was  gone;  and  there  was  very  good 
grass  for  our  horses.  So  we  encamped  there  all  night. 
Some  heavy  showers  of  rain  had  fallen  in  the  afternoon. 

Friday  27.  We  had  a  cloudy  morning  and  at  8  o'clock 
we  renewed  our  march,  proceeding  over  some  of  the 
steepest  mountains  I  ever  passed.  The  snow  is  so  deep 
that  we  cannot  wind  along  the  sides  of  these  steeps,  but 
must  slide  straight  down.  The  horses  generally  do  not 
sink  more  than  three  inches  in  the  snow;  but  sometimes 
they  break  through  to  their  bellies.  We  kept  on  without 
halting  to  about  5  o'clock  in  the  evening,  when  we  stop- 
ped at  the  side  of  a  hill  where  the  snow  was  off,  and 
where  there  was  a  little  grass;  and  we  here  encamped  for 
the  night.  The  day  was  pleasant  throughout;  but  it 
appeared  to  me  somewhat  extraordinary,  to  be  traveling 
over  snow  six  or  eight  feet  deep  in  the  latter  end  of  June. 
The  most  of  us,  however,  had  saved  our  socks  as  we 
expected  to  find  snow  on  these  mountains. 

Saturday  28.  The  morning  was  pleasant,  we  set  out 
early,  and  passed  the  place  where  we  had  encamped  on 
the  15th  September  last  when  the  snow  fell  on  us.  After 
passing  this  place  about  a  mile,  we  took  a  left  hand  path, 
and  traveled  along  high  ridges  till  noon,  when  we  came 
to  a  good  place  of  grass;  where  we  halted  and  remained 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  211 

all  the  afternoon  to  let  our  horses  feed,  as  they  had  but 
little  grass  last  night.  Some  hunters  went  out,  as  we 
saw  some  elk  signs  here,  and  our  meat  is  exhausted. 
We  still  have  a  good  stock  of  roots,  which  we  pound  and 
make  thick  soup  of,  that  eats  very  well.  In  the  evening 
our  hunters  came  in  but  had  not  killed  any  thing.  On 
the  south  side  of  this  ridge  there  is  summer  with  grass 
and  other  herbage  in  abundance;  and  on  the  north  side, 
winter  with  snow  six  or  eight  feet  deep. 

Sunday  29.  This  was  a  foggy  morning.  We  set  out 
early,  proceeded  over  some  bad  hills,  and  came  to  the 
old  path;  at  which  time  there  was  a  shower  of  rain,  with 
hail,  thunder  and  lightning,  that  lasted  about  an  hour. 
At  10  o'clock  we  left  the  snow,  and  in  the  evening  we 
arrived  at  the  warm  spring;  wbere  we  encamped  for  the 
night,  and  most  of  us  bathed  in  its  water.  One  of  our 
hunters  killed  a  deer  where  we  dined  at  the  glades  or 
plains  on  Glade  creek;  and  where  there  is  good  grass, 
and  com-mas  also  grows.  Two  other  hunters  went  on 
ahead  and  killed  another  deer  on  the  way. 

Monday  30.  We  continued  our  march  early  and  had 
a  fine  morning.  When  we  were  ready  to  set  out,  we 
saw  a  deer  coming  to  a  lick  at  the  hot  spring,  and  one  of 
our  hunters  shot  it.  Two  hunters  went  on  ahead.  At 
noon  another  went  out  a  short  time,  and  killed  a  fine  deer. 
We  halted  for  dinner  at  the  same  place,  where  we  dined 
on  the  12th  of  September  1805,  as  we  passed  over  to  ttie 
Western  ocean.  After  dinner  we  proceeded  on,  and  on  our 
way  found  three  deer  that  one  of  the  hunters  had  killed  and 
left  for  us.  In  the  evening  we  arrived  at  Travelers'-rest 
creek,  where  tho  party  rested  two  days  last  fall,  and 
where  it  empties  into  Flathead  (called  Clarke's)  river,  a. 
beautiful  river  about  one  hundred  yards  wide  at  this  place; 
but  there  is  no  fish  of  any  consequence  in  it;  and  accord- 
ing to  the  Indian  account,  there  are  falls  on  it,  between 
this  place  and  its  mouth,  where  it  empties  into  the  Colum- 
bia, six  or  seven  hundred  feet  high;  and  which  probably 
prevents  the  fish  from,  coming  up.  Hero  we  encamped 
and  met  with  the  hunters. 

Tuesday,  July  1,  1806.      We    had   a  fine    morning, 


212      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

and  remained  here  to  rest  ourselves  and  horses  after  the 
severe  fatigue  of  coming  over  the  mountains,  and  some 
hunters  went  out.  The  Indians  still  continue  with  us. 
Here  the  party  is  to  be  separated;  some  of  us  are  to  go 
strait  across  to  the  falls  of  the  Missouri  and  some  to  the 
head  waters  of  Jefferson  river,  where  we  left  the  canoes. 
At  the  falls  we  expect  to  be  subdivided,  as  Captain  Lewis, 
myself  and  four  or  five  men  intend  to  go  up  Maria's  river  \ 
as  far  as  the  50th  degree  of  latitude;  and  a  party  to 
remain  at  the  falls  to  prepare  harness  and  other  things 
necessary  for  hauling  our  canoes  and  baggage  over  the 
portage.  Perhaps  Captain  Clarke,  who  goes  up  the  river 
here,  may  also  take  a  party  and  go  down  the  Riviere 
Jaune,  or  Yellow-stone  river.  In  the  afternoon  our  hun- 
ters came  in,  and  had  killed  twelve  deer,  most  of  them 
in  good  order. 

Wednesday  2.  We  continued  here  during  this  day, 
which  was  fine  and  pleasant,  fixing  our  loading  and 
making  other  arrangements  for  our  separation.  One  of 
our  hunters,  went  out  and  killed  two  deer.  The 
musketoes  are  very  troublesome  at  this  place. 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Thursday  3.  We  had  again  a  fine  morning;  collected 
our  horses  and  set  out.  Captain  Lewis  and  his  party 
went  down  Clarke's  river  and  Captain  Clarke  with  the 
rest  of  the  party  went  up  it.  All  the  natives  accompani- 
ed Captain  Lewis,  We  proceeded  on  down  Clarke's 
river  about  12  miles,  when  we  came  to  the  forks;  and 
made  three  rafts  to  carry  ourselves  and  baggage  over. 
The  river  here  is  about  150  yards  wide,  and  very  beau- 
tiful. We  had  to  make  three  trips  with  our  rafts,  and  in 
the  evening  got  all  over  safe;  when  we  moved  on  up  the 
north  branch,  which  is  our  way  over  to  the  falls  of  the 
Missouri,  and  after  traveling  a  mile  and  a  half  encamped 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  213 

for  the  night.  Two  hunters  went  out  and  killed  three 
deer.  The  musketoes  are  worse  here  than  I  have  known 
them  at  any  place,  since  we  left  the  old  Maha  village  on 
the  Missouri.  This  north  branch  of  the  river  is  called 
by  the  natives  Isquet-co-qual-la,  which  means,  the  road 
to  the  buffalo.* 

Friday  4.  We  had  a  beautiful  morning  and  waited 
here  some  time  in  order  to  have  a  morning  hunt,  as  our 
guides  intend  to  return,  and  we  wish  to  give  them  a  plen- 
tiful supply  of  provisions  to  carry  them  back  over  the 
mountains.  While  our  hunters  were  out  a  young  Indian 
came  to  our  camp,  who  had  crossed  the  mountains  after 
us.  At  10  o'clock  our  hunters  came  in,  but  had  not 
killed  any  thing.  We  were,  however,  able  to  furnish 
them  with  two  deer  and  a  half,  from  those  that  were 
killed  yesterday.  We  then  gave  them  some  presents  and 
took  a  friendly  leave  of  them:  and  it  is  but  justice  to  say, 
that  the  whole  nation  to  which  they  belong,  are  the  most 
friendly,  honest  and  ingenuous  people  that  we  have  seen 
in  the  course  of  our  voyage  and  travels.  After  taking 
our  farewell  of  these  good  hearted,  hospitable  and  obli- 
ging sons  of  the  west,  we  prodeeded  on  up  Isquet-co- 
qual-la  a  handsome  prairie  of  about  10  miles,  after  which 
the  hills  comes  close  on  the  river,  on  both  sides,  and  we 
had  a  rough  road  to  pass.  Having  made  18  miles  we 
encamped  for  the  night;  where  the  country  is  very  moun- 
tainous on  both  sides  of  the  river,  which  runs  nearly  east 
and  west,  and  is  a  deep  rapid  stream  about  80  yards  wide. 

Saturday  5.  We  had  another  beautiful  morning,  set 
out  early  and  proceeded  on  the  same  course  as  yesterday 
through  a  rough  country,  with  a  number  of  branches  or 
small  streams  flowing  from  the  hills.  We  killed  one 
deer,  and  about  1 1  o'clock  came  to  a  valley  three  quar- 

*  The  route  taken  by  Captain  Lewis  and  his  party  is  the  direct 
road  to  the  falls  of  the  Missouri,  mentioned  in  Captain  Clarke's 
letter;  that  taken  by  Captain  Clarke  and  his  party  leads  to  the  head 
waters  of  the  main  branch  of  the  Missouri,  which  they  ascended 
in  their  outward  bound  voyage,  and  which  is  a  considerable  dis- 
tance south  of  the  direct  course  from  the  falls  to  the  crossing 
place  of  the  great  chain  of  Rocky  Mountains. 


214  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

ters  of  a  mile  wide,  all  plains,  where  we  halted  to  dine 
and  to  let  our  horses  feed.  The  hills  upon  each  side  are 
handsomely  covered  with  timher  of  the  fir  kind.  While 
we  rested  here  one  of  our  hunters  killed  a  cabre  or  ante- 
lope. At  1  o'clock  we  proceeded  on  again  up  the  valley. 
When  we  had  gone  about  nine  miles  we  came  to  and 
crossed  a  river,  about  35  yards  wide,  which  flows  in 
with  a  rapid  current  from  some  snow  topped  mountains 
on  the  north,  where  jhe  valley  is  two  or  three  miles  wide. 
Having  gone  about  four  miles  further  we  came  to  the 
head  of  the  valley,  where  the  hills  come  close  upon  the 
river  for  two  miles.  After  we  had  passed  these  nar- 
rows we  came  to  another  large  and  beautiful  valley  four 
or  five  miles  wide,  and  all  plains,  except  some  timber  on 
the  river  banks.  In  the  evening  we  encamped  on  the 
bank  of  a  handsome  creek  which  comes  in  from  the 
north,  a  bold  stream  of  15  yards  wide. 

Sunday  6.  We  had  a  fine  clear  morning  with  some 
white  frost,  and  renewed  our  journey  early ;  saw  a  great 
many  service  berries,  not  yet  ripe,  and  some  flax  which 
grows  on  these  plains.  Having  gone  about  seven  miles 
we  crossed  a  north  branch  of  the  Co-qual-la-isquet, 
which  is  40  yards  wide  and  was  mid-rib  deep  on  our 
horses,  with  a  rapid  current.  About  seven  miles  up  the 
valley  we  passed  a  beautiful  small  lake;  where  the  river 
and  road  leaves  the  valley,  and  bears  towards  the  north- 
east between  two  hills  not  very  large.  We  kept  up  the 
river,  through  a  small  brushy  valley  about  the  eighth  of  a 
mile  wide,  for  a  mile  and  a  half,  and  then  halted  for  din- 
ner. Here  our  two  hunters  came  to  us,  and  had  killed  a 
deer.  We  keep  two  men  out  every  day  hunting.  In 
this  small  valley  there  is  a  considerable  quantity  of  cot- 
ton wood  timber;  and  the  musketoes  are  very  trouble- 
some. At  1  o'clock  we  proceeded  on,  passed  a  number 
of  handsome  streams  which  fall  into  the  river,  and  a  num- 
ber of  old  Indian  lodges.  As  we  advance  the  valley 
becomes  more  extensive,  and  is  all  plain.  At  night  we 
encamped  on  a  beautiful  creek,  having  traveled  twenty 
five  miles.  Our  hunters  killed  four  deer  to  day. 

Monday  7.     We  had  a  wet  night,  and  a  cloudy  morn- 


AS-  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  215 

ing.  Continued  our  journey  early  along  the  valley, 
which  is  very  beautiful  with  a  great  deal  of  clover  on  its 
plains.  Having  gone  about  five  miles,  we  crossed  the 
main  branch  of  the  river,  which  comes  in  from  the  north: 
and  up  which  the  road  goes  about  five  miles  further  and 
then  takes  over  a  hill  towards  the  east.  On  the  top  of 
this  hill  there  ar3  two  beautiful  ponds,  of  about  three 
acres  in  size.  We  passed  over  the  ridga  and  struck  a 
small  stream,  which  we  at  first  thought  was  of  the  head 
waters  of  the  Missouri,  but  found  it  was  not.  Here  we 
halted  for  dinner,  and  after  staying  three  hours,  proceed- 
ed on  four  miles  up  the  branch,  when  we  came  to  the 
dividing  ridge  between  the  waters  of  the  Missouri  and 
Columbia;  passed  over  the  ridge  and  came  to  a  fine  spring 
the  waters  of  which  run  into  the  Missouri.  We  then 
kept  down  this  stream  or  branch  about  a  mile;  then  turn- 
ed a  north  course  along  the  side  of  the  dividing  ridge  for 
eight  miles,  passing  a  number  of  small  streams  or  bran- 
ches, and  at  9  o'clock  at  night  encamped  after  coming 
thirty  two  miles. 

Tuesday  8.  The  morning  was  pleasant  with  some 
white  frost.  We  started  early  and  proceeded  on  nearly 
north;  saw  several  deer,  cabro  and  wolves  in  the  plains, 
and  after  going  three  miles  and  a  half  passed  torrent 
creek,  a  large  creek  that  runs  into  Medicine  river. 
Shortly  after  we  passed  this  creek  we  went  off  the  path 
or  trail,  traveled  straight  across  the  plains,  and  in  about 
fifteen  miles  struck  Medicine  river,  close  above  the  forks 
where  we  halted  for  dinner;  and  one  of  our  hunters 
killed  a  deer  and  a  cabre.  In  the  afternoon  we  proceed- 
ed down  Medicine  river  nine  miles;  and  having  come  in 
the  whole  to  day  twenty  eight  miles  encamped  for  the 
night;  and  found  the  musketoes  very  troublesome. 

Wednesday  9.  A  cloudy  morning.  We  set  out  early 
to  go  down  tha  river;  but  had  not  proceeded  far  until  it 
began  to  rain,  and  we  halted  at  some  old  Indian  lodges, 
where  we  took  shelter.  In  an  hours  time  the  rain  slack- 
ened, and  we  proceeded  on;  but  had  not  gone  far  before 
it  began  to  rain  again,  and  the  weather  was  very  cold  for 
the  season.  At  noon  we  came  up  with  our  hunters,  who 


216  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

had  killed  a  large  buffalo;  so  we  halted  and  some  of  us 
went  and  dressed  it,  and  brought  in  the  best  of  the  meat 
which  was  very  good.  We  encamped  here  and  lay  by 
during  the  afternoon  as  the  rain  continued  during  the 
whole  of  it. 

Thursday  10.  At  dark  last  evening  the  weather  clear- 
ed up,  and  was  cold  all  night.  This  morning  was  clear 
and  cold,  and  all  the  mountains  in  sight  were  covered 
with  snow,  which  fell  yesterday  and  last  night.*  At  8 
o'clock  we  started  down  the  river,  and  in  the  course  of 
the  day  our  hunters  killed  five  deer,  two  elk  and  a  bear. 
The  road  was  very  muddy  after  the  rain.  The  country 
on  both  sides  is  composed  of  beautiful  plains;  the  river 
about  80  yards  wide  and  tolerably  straight,  with  some 
cotton  wood  timber  on  its  banks;  and  plenty  of  game  of 
different  kinds  ranging  through  the  plains.  Having  made 
24  miles  we  encamped  for  the  night. 

Friday  11.  This  was  a  fine  morning  and  we  set  out 
early  to  cross  the  point,  and  having  gone  eight  miles, 
came  to  the  Missouri  at  the  Bear  islands,  nearly  opposite 
our  old  encampment.  Here  our  hunters,  in  a  short  time, 
killed  five  buffalo;  and  we  saved  the  best  of  the  meat; 
and  of  the  skins  made  two  canoes  to  transport  ourselves 
and  baggage  across  the  river.  The  buffalo  are  in  large 
droves  about  this  place. 

Saturday  12.  Again  a  fine  morning.  We  went  out 
to  collect  our  horses  and  found  that  ten  of  them  were 
missing.  I  then  set  cut  to  look  for  them,  went  seven 
miles  up  Medicine  river,  whsre  I  found  three  of  them 
and  returned  to  camp.  Two  more  went  to  hunt  for  them 
and  the  rest  of  us  crossed  the  river  in  our  new  craft 
which  we  find  answer  the  purpose  very  well.  At  night 
one  of  the  men  returned  without  finding  the  lost  horses. 

Sunday   13.     The  morning  was  pleasant,  and  we  mov- 

*It  will  not  be  a  subject  of  surprise  that  snow  should  fall  here 
in  the  middle  of  summer,  when  the  elevation  of  this  part  of  the 
country,  which  divides  the  eastern  from  the  western  waters,  is 
taken  into  view.  Every  person  will  be  able  to  comprehend,  that 
no  small  degree  of  elevation,  above  its  mouth,  will  be  sufficient  to 
give  so  rapid  a  course  to  the  Missouri  for  upwards  of  3000  miles, 
even  supposing  there  were  no  great  falls  or  cataracts. 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  217 

ed  about  a  mile  up  to  our  old  encampment;  opened  a 
deposit  we  had  made  here  and  found  some  things  spoiled  ; 
and  the  other  man  that  went  to  look  for  the  horses  not 
being  returned  we  remained  here  all  day  airing  and  sun- 
ning the  baggage  and  stores.  The  musketoes  torment 
us  very  much,  and  the  wolves  continually  howl  night 
arid  day  round  our  camp. 

Monday  14.  This  was  a  pleasant  morning.  We 
staid  here  also  to  day;  and  the  musketoes  continued  to 
torment  us  until  about  noon,  when  a  fine  breeze  of  wind 
aross  and  drove  them,  for  a  while,  away.  We  deposited 
the  most  valuable  part  of  our  baggage  and  stores  on  a 
large  island  so  that  if  the  Indians  came  they  would  not 
get  it. 

Tuesday  15.  We  had  pleasant  weather.  One  of  our 
men  started  to  go  down  to  the  other  end  of  the  portage,  to 
see  if  the  periogue  was  safe,  which  we  had  left  there; 
and  in  the  afternoon  the  man  who  had  gone  after  the 
horses  returned  unsuccessful;  but  as  he  saw  some  fresh 
Indian  signs  he  supposes  they  were  stolen  and  taken  back 
over  the  dividing  ridge.  Capt.  Lewis  therefore  concluded 
to  take  fewer  men  and  horsas  with  him  than  he  had 
intended  on  his  excursion  up  Maria's  river.  In  the  even- 
ing the  man  who  had  started  to  go  tot  the  other  end  of  the 
portage,  returned  without  being  there.  A  white  bear  met 
him  at  Willow  creek,  that  so  freightened  his  horse,  that 
he  threw  him  off  among  the  feet  of  the  animal;  but  he 
fortunately  (being  too  near  to  shoot)  had  sufficient  pre- 
sence of  mind  to  hit  the  bsar  on  the  head  with  his  gun; 
and  ths  stroke  so  stunned  it,  that  it  gave  him  time  to  get 
up  a  tree  close  by  before  it  could  seize  him.  The  blow, 
however,  broke  the  gun  and  rendered  houseless;  and  the 
bear  watched  him  about  three  hours  and  went  away; 
when  he  came  down,  caught  his  horse  about  two  miles 
distant  and  returned  to  camp.  These  bears  are  very 
numerous  in  this  part  of  the  country  and  very  danger- 
ous, as  they  will  attack  a  man  every  opportunity. 

Wednesday  16.  This  was  a  fine  morning.  We  col- 
lected our  horses,  of  which  Captain  Lewis  took  six  and 
left  four  to  haul  the  canoes  and  baggage  over  the  portage ; 


218  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

and  then  started  to  go  up  Maria's  river  with  only  three 
hunters.  We  continued  here  to  repair  our  waggons  or 
truckles  to  transport  the  baggage  and  canoes  on  when  the 
men  with  them  should  arrive.  The  musketoes  are  still 
very  troublesome. 

When  Captain  Lewis  left  us,  he  gave  orders  that  we 
should  wait  at  the  mouth  of  Maria's  river  to  the  1st  of 
September,  at  which  time,  should  he  not  arrive,  we  were 
to  proceed  on  and  join  Captain  Clarke  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Yellow-stone  river,  and  then  to  return  home:  but 
informed  us,  that  should  his  life  and  health  be  preserved 
he  would  meet  us  at  the  mouth  of  Maria's  river  on  the 
5th  of  August. 

Thursday  17.  We  had  a  pleasant  day,  and  high  wind ; 
which  drives  away  the  musketoes  and  relieves  us  from 
those  tormenting  insects. 

Friday  18.  This  was  another  pleasant  day,  and  I 
went  down  with  three  of  the  men  to  the  lower  end  of  the 
portage  to  examine  the  periogue  and  deposite  there, 
and  found  all  safe.  We  took  some  tobacco  out  of  the 
deposit,  covered  up  all  again,  until  the  party  should  arrive 
with  the  canoes,  and  then  returned  to  camp. 

Saturday  19.  The  weather  continues  pleasant  and 
most  of  the  men  are  employed  in  dressing  skins,  as  we 
have  got  all  ready  for  crossing  the  portage  as  soon  as 
the  canoes  arrive.  The  musketoes  were  very  trouble- 
some to  day.  At  3  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  a  sergeant 
and  nine  men  arrived  at  our  camp  with  the  canoes  and 
some  baggage.  They  informed  me  that  they  had  a  good 
passage  over  the  mountains  to  the  Missouri;  and  on  their 
way  saw  a  boiling  hot  spring,  which  in  twenty  five  min- 
utes would  boil  meat  put  into  it  quite  well  and  fit  for 
eating.  This  spring  is  on  the  head  watsrs  of  Wisdom 
river.  Thsy  had  got  to  the  canoe  deposite  on  the  8th 
inst.  and  found  every  thing  safe:  the  whole  party  then 
came  down  to  the  forks  at  the  mouth  of  Jefferson  river; 
where  Captain  Clarke  with  ten  men  and  the  interpreter 
left  them  and  went  up  Gal  latin's  river  in  order  to  cross 
over  to  the  Jaune,  or  Yellow  Stone  river.  They  had 
plenty  of  provisions  all  the  way.  In  the  evening  we 
hauled  the  canoes  out  to  dry. 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  219 

Sunday  20.  We  had  a  fine  day;  but  the  musketoes 
were  very  bad.  We  concluded  to  stay  here  all  day,  as 
the  men  who  had  come  with  the  canoes,  were  fatigued ; 
and  in  the  evening  tried  our  horses  in  harness  and  found 
they  would  draw  very  well. 

Monday  21.  A  pleasant  morning.  One  of  the  men 
went  out  for  the  horses;  and  the  rest  of  us  put  two  canoes 
on  the  wagons,  and  moved  them  forward  by  hand  some 
distance,  when  the  man  returned  without  finding  the  hor- 
ses. Two  more  then  went  out  to  look  for  them,  and  at 
noon  came  back  without  finding  them.  In  the  afternoon 
some  more  men  went  to  look  for  them,  who  at  night 
returned  also  without  seeing  any  thing  of  them;  and  we 
lay  where  the  canoes  were  all  night. 

Tuesday  22.  We  had  a  fine  morning.  Eight  of  us 
started  in  various  directions  to  look  for  the  horses,  and  in 
a  short  time  two  of  the  men  found  them;  harnassed  them 
in  the  wagons  and  moved  on  about  four  miles,  when  one 
of  the  axletrees  broke;  and  they  returned  to  the  river  to 
mend  it.  Myself  and  one  of  the  men  did  not  return  till 
dark,  and  then  came  to  the  place  where  the  canoes  were 
upon  the  plains,  with  some  of  the  men.  Here  a  heavy 
shower  of  rain  came  on  with  thunder  and  lightning; 
and  we  remained  at  this  place  all  night. 

Wednesday  23.  This  was  a  pleasant  morning  after 
the  rain;  and  I  went  with  the  man  who  came  with  me 
last  night,  and  joined  the  party  at  the  river.  They  had 
repaired  the  wagons  and  put  on  two  more  canoes;  one 
of  which  was  very  large  and  gave  us  a  great  deal  of 
trouble,  as  we  could  not  make  axletrees  out  of  the  willow 
that  would  stand  more  than  six  or  eight  miles.  At  5 
o'clock  we  got  to  Willow  creek,  and  encamped  for  the 
night;  and  made  a  new  axletree.  In  our  way  to  day  one 
of  the  men  cut  his  leg  very  bad  with  a  knife,  which  so 
lamed  him  that  he  had  to  ride  in  one  of  the  canoes. 

Thursday  24.  This  was  a  cloudy  morning.  I  was 
very  much  indisposed  last  night  and  am  yet  very  unwell. 
I  therefore  staid  at  this  camp,  and  the  party  went  back 
for  two  more  canoes.  About  3  o'clock  one  of  the  wag- 
gons with  a  canoe  arrived,  and  the  party  with  it;  having 


220  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

let  the  horses  feed  a  while,  and  taken  dinner,  they  pro- 
ceeded on  to  Portage  river.  About  an  hour  after  they 
started  a  very  heavy  shower  of  rain,  accompanied  with 
thunder  and  lightning,  came  on,  and  lasted  about  an  hour 
and  a  half.  After  this  we  had  a  fine  evening,  and  a  little 
before  sunset  the  other  wagon  with  a  canoe  arrived  ; 
when  we  encamped  for  the  night.  The  man  who  cut 
his  leg  is  still  very  lame  and  continues  at  this  camp. 

Friday  25.  This  was  a  fine  morning  with  a  very 
heavy  dew.  The  party  set  out  early  to  Portage  river 
with  the  canoe;  and  in  a  short  time  the  men  with  the 
other  wagon  came  back;  I  was  by  this  time  so  much 
recovered  as  to  be  able  to  return  with  the  party  for 
another  canoe;  which  is  all  we  will  bring  over,  as  the 
other  is  very  heavy  and  injured;  and  we  expect  that  the 
five  small  ones  with  the  periogues  will  be  sufficient  to 
carry  ourselves  and  baggage  down  the  Missouri.  About 
2  o'clock  the  wagons  met  at  Willow  creek,  when  we 
had  another  very  heavy  shower  of  rain  accompanied 
with  thunder  and  lightning.  At  3  o'clock  we  set  out  with 
both  the  wagons  and  two  canoss  to  Portage  river;  it 
rained  hard  on  us  all  the  way,  and  the  road  was  so  mud- 
dy that  the  horses  were  not  able  to  haul  the  loads,  without 
the  assistance  of  every  man  at  the  wagons.  At  night 
we  arrived  at  Portage  river,  and  then  had  four  canoes 
there  safe. 

Saturday  26.  The  morning  was  cloudy.  Eight  of 
us  went  back  to  Willow  creek  for  the  other  canoe,  and 
the  rest  of  the  party  were  employed  in  taking  down  the 
canoes  and  baggage  to  the  lower  end  of  the  portage, 
where  the  periogue  had  been  left.  It  rained  very  hard 
all  night,  which  has  made  the  plains  so  muddy,  that  it  is 
with  the  greatest  difficulty  we  can  get  along  with  the 
canoe;  though  in  the  evening,  after  a  hard  day's  labor 
we  got  her  safe  to  Portage  river,  and  the  men  run  her 
down  to  the  lower  landing  place,  where  we  encamped. 
A  few  drops  of  rain  fell  in  the  course  of  the  day. 


AS  RELATED  'BY  PATRICK  GASS.  221 


CHAPTER   XXIV. 

Sunday  27.  Is  a  fine  clear  pleasant  morning,  myself 
and  one  of  the  men  crossed  the  river  with  the  horses,  in 
order  to  go  by  land  to  the  mouth  of  Maria's  river:  the  rest 
of  the  party  here  are  to  go  by  water.  We  proceeded  on 
through  the  plains  about  twenty  miles,  and  in  our  way 
saw  a  great  many  buffalo.  We  then  struck  Tansy  or 
Rose  river,  which  we  kept  down  about  ten  miles  and 
encamped.  The  land  along  this  river  is  handsomely 
covered  with  Cotton  wood  timber  and  there  is  abundance 
of  game  of  different  kinds.  In  our  way  we  killed  a 
buffalo  and  a  goat.  The  wolves  in  packs  occasionally 
hunt  these  goats,  which  are  too  swift  to  be  run  down  and 
taken  by  a  single  wolf.  The  wolves  having  fixed  upon 
their  intended  prey  and  taken  their  stations,  a  part  of  the 
pack  commence  the  chase,  and  running  it  in  a  circle, 
are  at  certain  intervals  relieved  by  others.  In  this  man- 
ner they  are  able  to  run  a  goat  down.  At  the  falls  where 
the  wolves  are  plenty,  I  had  an  oppotunity  of  seeing  one 
of  these  hunts. 

Monday  28.  The  morning  was  fine  and  pleasant, 
and  at  an  early  hour  we  proceeded  down  the  river.  In 
our  way  we  killed  six  goats  or  antelopes  and  seven 
buffalo;  and  about  1  o'clock  came  to  the  point  at  the 
mouth  of  Maria's  river,  where  we  met  with  the  party 
who  had  come  down  from  the .  falls  by  water,  and  who 
had  just  arrived;  and  also  unexpectedly  with  Captain 
Lewis  and  the  three  men  who  had  gone  with  him.  They 
had  joined  the  party  descending  the  river  this  forenoon, 
after  riding  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  since  yester- 
day morning,  when  they  had  a  skermish  with  a  party  of 
the  Prairie  Grossventres,  or  Bigbellied  Indians  who  inha- 
bit the  plains  up  Maria's  river;  of  which  they  gave  the 
following  account.  On  the  evening  of  the  26th  Captain 
Lewis  and  his  party  met  with  eight  of  those  Indians, 
who  seemed  very  friendly  and  gave  them  two  robes.  In 
return  Captain  Lewis  gave  one  of  them,  who  was  a  chief, 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  223 

a  medal;  and  they  all  continued  together  during  the  night; 
but  after  break  of  day  the  next  morning,  the  Indians 
snatched  up  three  of  our  men's  guns  and  ran  off  with 
them.  One  Indian  had  the  guns  of  two  men,  who  pur- 
sued and  caught  him,  and  one  of  them  killed  him  with 
his  knife;  and  they  got  back  the  guns.  Another  had 
Captain  Lewis's  gun,  but  immediately  gave  it  up.  The 
party  then  went  to  catch  their  horses,  and  found  the 
Indians  driving  them  off;  when  Captain  Lewis  shot  one 
of  them,  and  gave  him  a  mortal  wound;  who  notwith- 
standing returned  the  fire,  but  without  hurting  the  Cap- 
tain. So  our  men  got  all  their  own  horses,  but  one.,  and 
a  number  of  those  belonging  to  the  Indians,  as  they  ran 
off  in  confusion  and  left  every  thing  they  had.  Our 
men  then  saddled  their  horses,  and  made  toward  the 
Missouri  as  fast  as  possible;  after  Captain  Lewis  had 
satisfied  himself  with  respect  to  the  geography  of  the 
country  up  Maria's  river. 

We  this  day  took  the  articles  out  of  the  place  of  depo- 
sit, and  examined  the  large  red  periogue  we  left  here, 
and  found  it  too  rotten  to  take  down  the  river.  We 
therefore  took  what  nails  out  of  it  we  could,  left  our 
horses  on  the  plains  and  proceeded  down  the  river. 
About  the  time  we  started,  a  heavy  gust  of  rain  and  hail 
accompanied  with  thunder  and  lightning  came  on  and 
lasted  about  an  hour,  after  which  we  had  a  cloudy  wet 
afternoon,  and  in  the  evening  we  encamped  about  twenty 
five  miles  below  the  forks. 

Tuesday  29.  Early  in  a  cloudy  morning  we  com- 
menced our  voyage  from  the  mouth  of  Maria's  river; 
and  the  current  of  the  Missouri  being  very  swift,  we  went 
down  rapidly.  At  noon  we  saw  some  Ibex  or  Bighorns 
at  the  entrance  of  a  range  of  high  rough  hills;  and  we 
halted  and  killed  two  of  them.  Having  dined  we  pro- 
ceeded on  again,  and  in  our  way,  during  the  afternoon, 
killed  seven  more  of  these  mountain  sheep.  There  are 
few  other  animals  in  this  range  of  high  country.  In 
the  evening  we  encamped  opposite  the  mouth  of  Slaugh- 
ter river,  and  Captain  Lewis  had  four  of  those  animals 
skeletonized,  to  take  with  him  to  the  seat  of  Government 


224      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

of  the  United  States.  A  considerable  quantity  of  rain 
fell  in  the  course  of  the  day. 

Wednesday  30.  We  embarked  early  in  a  cloudy 
morning  with  some  rain.  On  our  way  through  ^this  high 
range  of  mountains,  we  killed  four  more  of  the  large 
horned  animals,  two  buffalo,  two  beaver  and  a  bear. 

The  water  of  the  river  is  very  thick  and  muddy,  on 
account  of  the  late  falls  of  rain,  which  wash  those  clay 
hills  very  much.  We  went  down  the  river  upwards  of 
70  miles  to  day,  and  encamped  on  a  prairie  island.  Hea- 
vy rain  fell  at  intervals  during  the  day. 

Thursday  31.  We  set  out  early,  though  it  continued 
at  intervals  to  rain  hard;  about  10  o'clock  we  saw  a  great 
gang  of  elk  on  a  small  island,  where  we  halted  and  in  a 
short  time  killed  fifteen  of  them.  We  took  the  skins 
and  the  best  part  of  the  meat,  and  proceeded.  At  noon 
we  halted  to  dine,  and  had  then  a  very  heavy  shower  of 
rain.  We  also  killed  another  of  the  Large  horned  ani- 
mals or  mountain  sheep.  We  remained  here  about  an 
hour,  then  proceeded  on,  and  will  soon  be  clear  of  this 
range  of  high  rough  country.  In  our  way  this  after- 
noon, we  killed  two  mule  and  twelve  other  deer,  and  two 
beaver.  Though  the  afternoon  was  wet  and  disagreea- 
ble, we  came  70  miles  to  day. 

Friday,  August  1,  1806.  We  embarked  early  in  a 
wet  disagreeable  morning,  and  in  a  short  time  saw  a  large 
brown  or  grizly  bear  swimming  in  the  river,  which  we 
killed,  and  took  on  board;  passed  the  mouth  of  Muscle 
shoal  river;  and  at  noon  halted  to  dine  at  some  old 
Indian  lodges.  Captain  Lewis  being  afraid  from  the 
dampness  of  the  weather,  that  the  skins  he  had  procured 
of  these  big-horned  animals  would  spoil,  thought  it  advi- 
sable to  stay  here  this  afternoon  and  dry  them  by  a 
fire  in  these  old  lodges:  and  some  of  the  men  went  out 
to  hunt.  About  an  hour  after  we  landed  here,  a  large 
bear  came  so  close  to  our  camp,  that  one  of  the  men  shot 
and  killed  it  from  our  fire.  In  the  evening  our  hunters 
came  in  and  killed  several  deer.  The  afternoon  was 
cloudy  with  some  rain ;  and  having  made  a  fire  and  put 
the  skins  to  dry  with  two  men  to  attend  them,  made  our 
arrangements  for  the  night. 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  225 

Saturday  2.  This  was  a  fine  clear  morning,  and  Capt. 
Lewis  thought  it  best  to  stay  here  TO  clay  also  and  dry 
our  baggago,  as  it  was  becoming  damp  and  wet.  Two 
hunters  were  sent  on  in  a  canoe  to  hunt;  and  in  the 
course  of  the  day  we  got  every  thing  dry  and  ready  to 
set  out  the  next  morning. 

Sunday  3.  We  had  a  fine  morning,  and  at  6  o'clock 
got  under  way  and  proceeded  on.  Having  gone  10  miles 
we  came  up  with  the  hunters  who  had  killed  24  deer. 
We  went  on  very  rapidly  and  saw  great  gangs  of  elk 
feeding  on  the  snores,  but  few  buffalo.  At  sunset  we 
encamped  having  gone  73  miles. 

Monday  4.  This  was  another  pleasant  day  and  we 
proceeded  on  early.  One  of  the  small  canoes  with  two 
hunters  did  not  come  up  last  night.  We  left  another 
small  canoe  with  some  hunters  behind  and  proceeded  on. 
-We  went  very  rapidly,  and  in  our  way  killed  a  buffalo, 
and  some  deer.  At  5  o'clock  we  passed  the  mouth  of 
Milk  River,  which  was  very  high  and  the  current  strong. 
Having  proceeded  88  miles  we  encamped  for  the  night. 

Tuesday  5.  Last  night  was  cloudy  and  thunder  was 
heard  at  a  distance.  About  midnight  the  small  canoe 
we  left  yesterday  came  floating  down  with  the  current, 
and  would  have  passed  us  if  our  sentinel  had  not  hailed  it: 
the  hunters  in  it  killed  a  bear  arid  two  deer.  This  morn- 
ing was  also  cloudy,  and  we  halted  here  till  noon  in 
expectation  that  the  other  canoe  would  come  down;  but 
there  was  then  no  appearance  of  it;  and  we  began  to 
suspect  it  had  passed  in  the  night.  The  forenoon  had 
become  clear  and  pleasant,  and  at  noon  we  got  under 
way.  As  we  went  on  we  killed  a  very  fat  buffalo  and 
some  deer;  and  two  hunters  who  went  on  ahead  in  the 
morning  killed  two  very  large  brown  bears.  At  sunset 
we  encamped,  and  at  dark  a  violent  gust  of  wind  and  rain 
came  on  with  thunder  and  lightning,  which  lasted  about 
an  hour;  after  which  we  had  a  fine  clear  night. 

Wednesday  6.  WTe  embarked  early,  and  had  a  fine 
morning,  but  high  wind.  At  12  o'clock  the  wind  blew 
so  violent  that  it  became  dangerous  to  go  on,  and  we 
halted;  and  some  of  the  men  went  out  and  shot  a  large 

15 


226      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

buck,  but  not  dead  and  he  got  into  the  river;  when  two 
of  them  pursued  in  a  canoe  and  caught  him.  Having 
remained  here  three  hours,  we  again  went  on  until  night 
and  encamped.  We  have  yet  seen  nothing  of  the  two 
hunters  who  had  been  left  behind  in  the  small  canoe. 

Thursday  7.  The  morning  was  cloudy,  and  we  se* 
out  early,  after  a  very  heavy  shower  of  rain,  which  fell 
before  daylight.  We  proceeded  on  very  well,  and  about 
4  o'clock  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the  Yellow  Stone  River. 
We  found  that  Captain  Clarke  had  been  encamped  on 
the  point  some  time  ago,  and  had  left  it.  We  discover- 
ed nothing  to  inform  us  where  he  was  gone,  except  a 
few  words  written  or  traced  in  the  sand,  which  were 
"  W.  C.  a  few  miles  further  down  on  the  right  hand 
side."  Captain  Lewis  having  left  a  few  lines  for  the  two 
men  in  the  canoe,  to  inform  them,  if  they  are  still  behind, 
where  we  were  gone,  we  continued  our  voyage.  At 
night  we  encamped  after  coming  above  100  miles;  and 
though  dark  killed  a  fat  buffalo  at  the  place  of  our  en- 
campment. 

Friday  8.  We  had  a  fine  clear  cool  morning  with 
some  white  frost;  proceeded  on  early  and  in  a  short  time 
passed  one  of  Capt.  Clarke's  camps.  At  9  oclock  we  halted 
to  repair  the  periogue,  and  to  dress  some  skins  to  make 
ourselves  clothing.  The  musketoes  are  more  trouble- 
some here  than  at  any  other  place  since  we  left  the  falls 
of  the  Missouri.  A  party  of  men  went  out  to  hunt  and 
killed  some  elk  and  deer;  the  rest  were  employed  in 
dressing  deer  and  cabre  skins. 

Saturday  9.  This  was  another  fine  day;  and  most  of 
the  men  were  employed  as  yesterday;  and  in  making 
small  oars  tor  our  canoes.  Two  of  them  went  over  the 
river  and  killed  an  elk  and  a  deer. 

Sunday  10.     We  had  a  fine  morning  and  were  em-  ., 
ployed  in  repairing   the   periogua    and    dressing   skins, 
until  3    o'clock  in  the  afternoon,   when  we  got  the  per- 
iogue completed,  loaded  our  craft,  and  at  4  o'clock  pro-  ; 
ceeded   on   to   the    mouth    of    White-earth    River,    and 
encamped  opposite  it  on   the  same   bottom,   where    we 
encamped  on  the  2 1st  of  April  1805.     In  the  afternoon 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  227 

some  drops  of  rain  fell ;  and  the  musketoes  here  were 
very  bad  indeed. 

Monday  11.  The  morning  was  pleasant;  and  we 
set  out  early;  passed  Captain  Clarke's  encampment  of 
the  8th  instant,  and  proceeded  on  to  the  burnt  bluffs, 
where  we  saw  a  gang  of  elk  feeding.  The  canoes  were 
then  sent  to  shore  with  a  party  of  men  to  endeavor  to 
kill  some  of  them;  and  we  proceeded  on  with  the  per- 
iogue.  In  about  a  half  a  mile  further  we  saw  another 
gang,  when  we  halted  and  Captain  Lewis  and  one  of 
the  men  went  out  after  them.  In  a  short  time  Captain 
Lewis  returned  wounded  and  very  much  alarmed;  and 
ordered  us  to  our  arms,  supposing  he  had  been  shot  at 
by  some  Indians.  Having  prepared  for  an  attack,  I 
went  out  with  three  men  to  reconnoitre  and  examine  the 
bushes,  which  are  very  thick  at  this  place,  and  could  see  no 
Indians;  but  after  some  time  met  with  the  man  who  went 
out  with  Captain  Lewis,  and  found  on  inquiry  that  he 
had  shot  him  by  accident  through  the  hips,  and  without 
knowing  it  pursued  the  game.  Having  made  this  dis- 
covery, we  returned  to  the  periogue;  examined  and 
dressed  Captain  Lewis's  wound;  and  found  the  ball, 
which  had  lodged  in  his  overalls.  The  canoes  having 
come  down  we  proceeded  on,  after  dressing  two  elk 
that  had  been  killed  at  this  place,  and  passed  an  encamp- 
ment which  Captain  Clarke  had  left  in  the  morning. 
We  found  here  a  note  informing  us,  that  the  Indians  had 
stolen  all  the  horses  which  he  had  sent  with  a  sergeant 
and  party  from  Yellow  Stone  Kiver,  and  that  the  ser- 
geant with  the  party  came  down  in  skin  canoes  and  met 
him  at  this  place.  We  then  proceeded  on  some  distance 
and  encamped. 

Tuesday  12.  The  morning  was  pleasant,  and  we 
proceeded  on.  Captain  Lewis  is  in  good  spirits;  but  his 
wound  stiff  and  sore.  Having  gone  about  nine  miles 
we  met  with  two  men  on  the  river  trapping  and  hunting. 
Capt.  Lewis  gave  them  some  ammunition,  and  directions 
with  respect  to  the  river  above.  They  informed  us  that 
Captain  Clarke  and  party  had  passed  them  yesterday  at 
noon.  We  proceeded  on  and  at  10  o'clock  overtook 
Captain  Clarke  and  his  party,  all  in  good  health.  The 


228  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

two  men  with  the  small  canoe,  who  had  been  some  time 
absent,  came  down  and  joined  at  the  place  where  we  met 
with  the  two  strangers:  and  now,  (thanks  to  God)  we 
are  all  together  again  in  good  health,  except  Captain 
Lewis,  and  his  wound  is  not  dangerous. 

After  the  Corps  were  separated  among  the  mountains, 
as  before  mentioneJ,  Captain  Clarke's  party  proceeded 
on  to  the  Canoe  deposit,  near  the  head  of  the  main  branch 
of  the  Missouri  (called  Jefferson's  River)  and  having 
descended  with  the  canoes  to  the  mouth  of  the  branch, 
which  they  called  Gallatin,  Captain  Clarke  with  10  men 
left  those,  who  were  to  take  down  the  canoes  to  the  falls; 
traveled  three  days  up  Gallatin's  River  towards  the  south, 
when  they  crossed  a  ridge  and  came  upon  the  waters  of 
the  Jaune  or  Yellow-stone  River.  Having  gone  about  j 
100  miles  down  this  river  by  land  they  made  two  canoes, ' 
and  Captain  Clarke  having  sent  off  a  sergeant  and  three 
men  with  the  horses  to  the  Mandan  villages,  went  down 
himself  with  six  other  men  by  water.  On  the  second 
day  after  the  sergeant  and  his  party  had  started  for  the 
Mandan  villages,  the  Indians  stole  the  whole  of  the 
horses,  and  the  party  were  obliged  to  descend  the  river 
in  skin  canoes.  Captain  Clarke's  party  in  their  route 
had  found  game  plenty  of  different  kinds,  buffalo,  elk, 
deer,  beaver,  otter  and  some  other  animals.  They  also 
found  the  Yellow-stone  River  a  pleasant  and  navigable 
stream,  with  a  rich  soil  along  it;  but  timber  scarce. 

We  here  took  the  men  on  board,  and  left  the  buffalo 
canoes.  At  night  we  encamped  on  a  sand  beach,  as  the 
musketoes  are  not  so  bad  there  as  in  the  woods. 

Wednesday  13.  After  a  stormy  night  of  wind  and 
rain,  we  set  out  early  in  a  fine  morning;  about  9  o'clock 
passed  the  little  Missouri  and  went  on  very  well  during 
the  whole  of  the  day.  In  the  evening  those  in  some  of 
the  small  canoes,  which  were  ahead,  saw  Indians,  who 
fled  before  they  could  speak  to  them.  At  night  we 
encamped  opposite  an  old  wintering  village  of  the  Gross- 
ventres,  which  had  been  diserted  some  time  ago. 

Thursday  14.  The  morning  of  this  day  was  pleasant, 
and  we  embarked  early.  In  a  short  time  we  arrived 
near  to  our  old  friends  the  Grosventres  and  Mandans; 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  229 

and  fixed  our  encampment  in  a  central  position,  so  as  to 
be  most  convenient  to  the  different  villages.  The  inhab- 
itants of  all  the  villages  appear  very  glad  to  see  us,  and 
sent  us  presents  of  corn,  beans  and  squashes. 

Friday  15.  We  had  a  fine  clear  pleasant  morning, 
and  continued  here  all  day,  to  ascertain  whether  any  of 
the  chiefs  would  go  down  with  us  or  not.  They  had  to 
hold  councils  among  themselves,  and  we  had  to  wait  for 
their  answers.  The  two  hunters  we  left  up  the  river 
came  down,  staid  with  us  here,  and  got  one  of  our  party 
to  join  in  partnership  with  them,  and  to  return  up  the 
rivers  Missouri  and  Jaune  to  hunt. 

Saturday  16.  This  was  a  fine  cool  day;  and  we  yet 
remained  here,  waiting  an  answer  from  the  natives. 
Some  of  these  Indians  are  very  kind  and  obliging;  fur- 
nishing us  with  corn,  beans  and  squashes;  but  there  are 
others  very  troublesome,  and  steal  whenever  they  have 
an  opportunity.  Yesterday  and  to  day,  they  stole  sever- 
al knives  and  spoons;  and  three  powder  horns,  and  two 
pouches  filled  with  ammunition. 

In  the  afternoon  the  chief,  called  the  Big-White,  con- 
cluded to  go  down  with  us,  and  we  agreed  to  stay  until 
12  o'clock  to-morrow;  that  he  might  have  an  opportunity 
to  get  ready  for  his  voyage  and  mission.  The  command- 
ing officers  gave  discharges  to  the  man  who  agreed  to 
return  with  the  hunters  up  the  river,  and  the  interpreter; 
who  intends  settling  among  these  Indians,  and  to  whom 
they  gave  the  blacksmiths  tools;  supposing  they  might 
be  useful  to  the  nation.  They  also  gave  a  small  piece  of 
ordnance  to  the  Grossventers,  which  they  appeared  very* 
fond  of. 

Sunday  17.  There  was  some  flying  clouds  this 
morning,  and  the  weather  was  cold  for  the  season. 
The  two  strange  hunters,  with  the  man  who  had  received 
his  discharge  and  was  to  go  up  the  river  with  them,  went 
on  early.  We  lashed  our  small  canoes  together,  two 
and  two,  as  we  expect  they  will  be  more  steady  this  way 
and  carry  larger  loads.  At  noon  we  dropped  down  to 
the  village  of  the  Big- White:  and  he,  his  wife  and  child, 
with  Geesem  the  interpreter  for  the  Big- White,  his  wife 


230  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

and  two  children  embarked  in  two  of  our  canoes  to  go  to 
the  United  States.  We  proceeded  on  at  2  o'clock;  the 
wind  was  high,  and  river  rough;  and  in  the  evening  we 
encamped  having  descended  about  20  miles. 

Monday  18.     We  set  out  early  in  a  cloudy  morning, 
and  the  wind  high.     At    10  o'clock  we  killed  two  deer, 
when  we   halted  for  an  hour   and  cooked  some  venison. 
In  the  evening  we  encamped,  and  some  of  the  men  went  ^ 
out  and  killed  five  or  six  more  deer. 

Tuesday  19.  This  was  a  cloudy  windy  morning; 
and  the  water  rough,  that  our  small  canoes  could  not  safe- 
ly ride  the  waves:  so  we  remained  here  and  several  of 
the  men  went  out  to  hunt.  We  do  not  go  on  so  rapidly  as 
we  did  higher  up  the  river;  but  having  lashed  our  canoes- 
together  we  go  on  very  safe,  and  can  make  50  or  60 
miles  a  day.  Captain  Lewis  is  getting  much  better  and 
we  are  all  in  good  spirits.  At  3  o'clock  in  the  after- 
noon the  wind  ceased,  and  we  proceeded  on,  and  met 
with  our  hunters  on  the  bank,  who  had  killed  six  elk  and 
11  deer.  We  took  the  meat  on  board,  proceeded  on, 
and  encamped  on  a  sand-beach. 

Wednesday  20.  W7e  embarked  early  after  a  heavy 
gust  of  wind  and  rain,  and  proceeded  on  very  well. 
The  forenoon  was  cloudy,  without  rain;  and  in  the  after- 
noon the  weather  became  clear  and  pleasant.  We  went 
about  seventy  miles,  and  encamped;  where  we  found  the 
musketoes  very  troublesome. 

Thursday  21.     We  proceeded  on  early  and  had  a  fine 
morning.     At  10  o'clock  we  arrived  at  the  first  village  of 
the  Rickarees,  and  halted.     In  our   way  here  we    met 
three  Frenchmen  in  a  canoe;  one  of  them  a  young  man,  j 
who  formly  belonged  to   the   North  West   Company    of 
traders,  wished  to  go  with   us  to  the  United  States;  which 
our  commanding  officers  consented  to,  and  he  was  taken  , 
on  board  one  of  our  canoes.     When  we  halted  and  land- 
ed at  the  villages,  the  natives  generally  assembled,  and 
Captain    Clarke  held    a  council  with  them;   when  they, 
declared  they  would  live  in  peace  with  all  nations;  but  -j 
that  their  chiefs  and  warriors  would   not  go  to  the  United  ? 
States  at  present,  as   they  had   sent  one  chief  already,  *j 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GAS3.  ::U 

and  he  had  not  returned.  Thsre  are  also  a  great  many 
of  tho  Chien,  or  Dog  nation  encamped  here,  in  large 
handsome  leather  lodu-^:  u:id  \\i\e.  ha\e  eom-e  to  nado 
with  the  luckarees  for  i  beans,  for  which 

i:i  oxeha'.ii:  >    hntt'ilo    meat   a-ul  roh  -s.      Th  •>•  aw  a 

Tuitions  people.     r,ip:ain  Clarke  ijave  one 

of  their  chilis  ;i  medal,  which  he  ijuv  h  a  hullalo 

rohe,  a:ul  said  he  wa>  atVa'ul  i)fwhiux  jK^opK\  and  did  not 

like   to    iak-x    a:iy  tiling  h\>:n  ih.\n:  hut    atUM' 

suasion  h-.»  accepted  ih.v  medaU and  we  lef  th.Mn.*     II  i\- 

a  Ki\MU'hiu.Mi  join  \1  u>  to  ii'o  10  St.  L.uiis,  who  was  in  :lu» 
service  of  the  commanding  oftie  TS ;  ami  wo  dropped  iK»\\u 
to  the  villao-^  oa  ih,»  island,  and  iMUMiupod  for  the 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

Friday  22.  This  was  a  cloudy  wet  morning,  after 
anight  of  hard  rain,  and  we  stayvd  at  this  villa^-  to  112 
o'clock.  Th.'  natives  us  -d  us  tVi.'iully  and  with  kindness; 
ii'avc  us  corn  and  h  >ans  \\iih  oilier  articL-s;  hut  none  of 
them  wotdd  11,0  down  wiih  us.  At  i  . 
way;  and  having  proceeded  iwrlvo  miles  the  weather 

lie  clear,  and  we  halted  to  dry  our  ha^;i^  -,  \\hieh 
jr>i  \  TV  W.M  la  ;i  uii.'Jn.  At  -1  »>\-l«»ek  \\  i  again  \\>-ut  on, 
and  had  a  I'm  '  passage  till  ni;^ht,  \\!i-'ii  we  encamped* 

Saturday  12X.  \\'c  set  out  early  in  a  lino  morning, 
hut  the  \\  ind  was  hi^h;  and  we  went  on  \>T\  \\ell  till 
near  noon,  when  ihe  wind  hlew  so,  hard  that  \\--  had  to 
halt,  and  w  ire  detained  ahont  four  hours.  Three  hun- 
i  u.'in  on  aheail  hy  land,  and  when  we  ha.!  «.\ei-iaken 


*  Wo  think    lli:il.  soino   I'lirllicr  prunl'  :  \    to  rs|:i|,li  ,li  ll^ 

weakneti  and  luperitition  of  tin-.-  .     Had  the  chief  pert*- 

\  .•!•>-,  I  111  III  •  PfjeOtioB  of  tin-  in.'.hl,  We,  instead  Of  llunUin;'.  liim 
silly  and  HU|M'rslilii»us,  \vonl,!  IIMVP  IHM-II  im-lim-il  t>»  tin-  opinion, 
that  lie  was  ilif  \\  i-<-  ;t  ln.ii:inon  tli«-  Missouri. 


232  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

them  they  had  killed  two  elk  and  some  deer,  and  we 
halted  to  lake  in  the  meat.  Here  we  had  a  very  heavy 
shower  of  rain,  which  detained  us  another  hour.  We 
encamped  at  night  and  found  the  musketoes  very  trouble- 
some. 

Sunday  24.  We  had  a  fine  morning,  and  went  on 
very  well  till  noon,  when  the  wind  rose  and  blew  so 
strong  that  we  were  obliged  to  halt.  Having  lain  by 
three  hours  we  again  proceeded,  but  did  not  go  far  before 
we  were  obligsd  on  account  of  the  wind,  again  to  stop, 
and  encamp  for  the  night. 

Monday  25.  The  morning  was  again  pleasant,  and 
we  proceeded  on  early,  having  sent  forward  two  small 
canoes  with  five  men  to  hunt.  When  we  had  gone  12 
miles,  we  came  to  the  mouth  of  the  Chien  River,  where 
we  halted  and  staid  till  noon,  for  the  purpose  of  taking 
an  observation.  Some  of  the  men  went  out  to  hunt,  and 
while  we  remained  here,  killed  three  small  deer.  At 
half  past  12  o'clock  we  proceeded  on  again,  and  in  a 
short  time  overtook  our  canoes  with  the  hunters,  that  had 
gone  on  ahead,  and  killed  three  deer.  In  the  evening 
we  encamped  in  a  handsome  bottom,  and  a  hunter  killed 
another  deer. 

Tuesday  26.  We  set  out  early,  and  had  a  pleasant 
morning;  passed  Teeton  River,  but  saw  no  signs  of  the 
Teeton  band  of  the  Sioux  nation.  In  the  evening  we 
passed  Landselle's  fort;  but  found  no  persons  inhabiting 
it.  At  dark  we  encamped  after  coming  about  sixty 
miles. 

Wednesday  27.  We  again  had  a  pleasant  day  and 
embarked  early:  proceeded  on  till  we  came  to  the  upper 
end  of  the  Great  bend,  and  there  stopped  to  hunt.*  As 
our  hunters  saw  some  game,  we  in  a  short  time  contin- 
ued our  voyage  round  the  bend;  at  the  lower  end  of 

*  In  a  former  geographical  note  (pa.  62)  we  stated  that  the  place 
where  Mr.  Thompson,  Astronomer  to  the  North  West  Company, 
took  his  observation  n  the  year  1798  to  ascertain  the  latitude  and 
longitude  of  the  northern  bend  of  the  Missouri,  was  near  the 
longitude  of  the  Mandari  villages.  If  what  Mr.  Thompson 
called  the  northern  bend  is  the  same  with  what  Mr.  Gass  calls 
the  great  bend  (of  which  there  appears  little  doubt)  the  longitude 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  233 

which  we  killed  an  elk.  As  we  were  passing  an  island 
we  saw  a  gang  of  buffalo  feeding  on  it;  when  we  halted 
and  killed  three  of  them,  and  encamped  on  the  island 
for  the  night. 

Thursday  28.  We  had  another  pleasant  day;  embark- 
ed early,  and  proceeded  on  till  about  11  o'clock,  when 
we  arrived  at  Pleasant  camp,  and  halted.  We  left  the 
camp  on  the  18th  September  1806.  The  commanding 
officers  wishing  to  procure  and  take  down  with  them  the 
skeletons  of  some  more  deer,  and  cabre;  and  knowing 
that  there  were  but  few  of  those  animals  lower  down  the 
river;  continued  here  the  remainder  of  the  day,  and  sent 
out  six  or  eight  hunters;  who  returned  at  night  without 
finding  any  of  the  wished  for  animals,  but  killed  some 
fat  buffalo  and  common  deer. 

Friday  29.  The  morning  was  cloudy  and  some  hun- 
ters went  on  ahead  very  early;  while  we  amussd  our- 
selves till  10  o'clock  gathering  plums,  of  which  there  is 
great  abundance  at  this  place.  We  then  went  on,  and 
passed  White  River  on  the  south  side.  The  Missouri 
here  is  very  full  of  sand  bars  and  shoals,  and  we  find 
difficulty  in  gBtting  along.  About  2  o'clock  we  halted 
to  kill  some  buffalo,  but  were  unsuccessful,  and  we  pro- 
ceeded, till  evening,  and  encamped. 

Saturday  30.  We  had  a  pleasant  morning,  and  went 
on  early,  three  hunters  starting  ahead.  We  killed  some 
buffalo  and  elk  in  our  way,  and  about  2  o'clock  met  a 
band  of  the  Teetons,  fifty  or  sixty  in  number,  and  halted 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  as  we  did  not  wish  to 
have  any  intercourse  with  them.  Here  we  waited  for 
three  hunters,  who  were  behind;  and  during  our  stay 
eight  or  nine  of  the  Indians  swam  to  a  sand  bar  about 

of  the  Mandan  villages  will  be  between  two  and  three  degrees 
west  of  the  northern,  or  great  bend;  or  in  about  longitude  104 
degrees  west  of  London,  29  degrees  west  of  Philadelphia,  11* 
degrees  west  of  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  and  nearly  20  degrees 
east  of  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia.  This  will  still  show  the  great 
errors  of  those  maps  of  Louisiana,  which  place  the  Mandan 
villages  20  degrees  west  of  the  longitude  of  the  confluence  of 
the  M  ssouri  and  Mississippi;  and  less  than  12  degrees  east  of 
that  of  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia. 


234      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

60  yards  from  us,  and  we  found  that  they  were  the 
same  rascals,  who  had  given  us  trouble  as  we  went  up. 
We  could  not  converse  with  them,  but  one  of  our  men 
understanding  the  language  of  the  Ponis,  of  which  they 
understood  some  words;  we  through  him  let  them  know 
that  we  wanted  nothing  to  do  with  them ;  and  that  if  they 
troubled  us,  we  would  kill  every  one  of  them.  They 
then  withdraw,  and  the  whole  party  left  the  river  and 
went  off  to  the  hills.  Our  throe  hunters  returned,  and 
we  proceeded  on,  and  in  the  evening  encamped  on  a 
sand  bar  in  the  river. 

Sunday  31.  This  was  a  cloudy  morning,  after  a 
disagreeable  night  of  wind  and  hard  rain.  We  set  out 
early;  went  on  very  well  all  day,  and  in  the  evening 
encamped,  where  we  found  the  musketoes  very  trouble- 
some. 

Monday  September  1,  1806.  This  was  a  fine  pleas- 
ant day  and  we  S3t  out  early,  and  about  10  o'clock  met 
nine  of  the  Yonktin  band  of  the  Sioux  nation  of  Indians 
on  the  south  side  of  the  river.  We  halted  and  gave 
them  some  corn,  and  then  proceeded  on  with  an  unfavor- 
able wind.  At  night  we  arrived  at  our  encampment  of 
the  31st  of  August  1804,  where  we  held  a  treaty  with 
a  band  of  the  Sioux  nation,  and  encamped  for  the  night. 

Tuesday  2.  We  had  a  fine  morning,  but  high  wind; 
set  out  early,  and  went  on  till  noon,  when  we  halted,  and 
some  men  went  out  and  killed  two  fine  fat  buffalo  cows; 
and  brought  in  the  best  of  the  meat.  The  musketoes 
are  very  troublesome.  We  again  started  and  went  on 
about  two  miles,  when  the  wind  blew  so  violent  that  we 
had  to  encamp  for  the  night,  on  a  large  sand  bar,  where 
the  musketoes  are  not  so  bad,  as  where  there  are  woods 
or  bushes. 

Wednesday  3.  In  a  pleasant  morning  we  got  early 
under  way,  and  went  very  well  all  day.  About  5  o'clock 
in  the  afternoon,  we  met  a  Mr.  Aird,  a  trader,  who  was 
going  up  the  Missouri,  and  we  encamped  with  him.  At 
sunset  a  violent  gust  of  wind  and  rain,  with  thunder  and 
lightning  came  on  and  lasted  two  hours. 

Thursday    4.      This   was    a  cloudy  morning.      We 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  235 

exchanged  some  corn  with  Mr.  Aird  for  tobacco,  which 
our  party  stood  much  in  need  of;  and  his  party  having 
lost  a  boat  load  of  provisions  on  their  way  up,  wanted  the 
corn.  We  then  proceeded  on  till  we  came  to  our  old 
camp  near  the  Maha  village,  where  we  halted  to  dry  our 
baggage,  which  got  very  wet  last  night,  and  remained  all 
night.  The  natives  are  all  out  in  the  plains. 

Friday  5.  This  was  a  fine  morning,  and  we  early 
embarked,  and  went  on  very  well,  till  night,  when  we 
encamped  on  a  sand  bar,  where  the  musketoes  were  very 
troublesome. 

Saturday  6.  We  set  out  early  in  a  fine  morning, 
saw  a  number  of  pelicans,  and  about  8  o'clock  a  gang  ojf 
elk,  when  some  hunters  went  out,  but  returned  without 
killing  any.  At  1 1  o'clock  we  met  a  barge  belonging  to 
a  Mr.  Shotto,  of  St.  Louis,  loaded  with  merchandize, 
for  the  purpose  of  trading  with  the  Sioux  nation  of 
Indians.  We  got  some  spiritous  liquors  from  this  party 
the  first  we  had  tasted  since  the  4th  of  July  1805,  and 
remained  with  them  about  three  hours;  sent  some  hun- 
ters ahead  and  proceeded  on  till  3  o'clock  in  the  after- 
noon, when  we  halted  and  waited  for  the  hunters  at  the 
place  agreed  on  to  meet  them,  but  they  did  not  come 
in,  and  we  encamped  for  the  night. 

Sunday  7.  We  had  a  pleasant  morning.  The  hun- 
ters not  having  come  in,  we  left  a  canoe,  with  directions 
to  wait  till  12  o'clock  for  them;  and  proceeded  on. 
About  9  o'clock  we  met  with  our  hunters,  but  they  had 
not  killed  any  thing;  and  at  11  halted  to  hunt  and  wait 
for  the  canoe.  In  a  short  time  we  killed  three  elk  and 
brought  in  the  meat;  and  the  canoe  having  come  up, 
we  proceeded  on,  and  at  sunset  encamped.  The  mus- 
ketoes are  not  so  troublesome  as  they  were  some  time 
ago. 

Monday  8.  We  again  had  a  pleasant  morning;  and 
proceeded  on  early;  at  10  o'clock  we  passed  council 
bluffs  where  we  held  the  first  council  with  the  Ottos  on 
the  1st,  2,  and  3,  of  August  1804,  and  in  the  evening 
encamped  on  a  small  island,  having  gone  on  very  well 
during  the  day. 


236      JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

Tuesday  9.  We  embarked  early,  and  in  a  short 
time  passed  the  mouth  of  the  great  river  Platte ;  went  on 
very  well  all  day,  and  at  night  encamped  on  a  sand  beach 
opposite  the  Bald-pated  prairie. 

Wednesday  10.  We  had  a  pleasant  morning,  embark- 
ed early  and  went  on  very  well.  At  4  o'clock  P.  M 
we  met  a  periogue  with  four  men,  going  to  trade  with  the 
Loups  or  Wolf  Indians,  who  live  up  the  river  Platte.  We 
remained  with  these  men  about  an  hour,  got  some  whisky 
from  them,  and  then  continued  our  voyage.  In  a  short 
time  we  met  another  psriogue  and  seven  men,  going  to 
trade  with  the  Mahas,  who  live  on  the  Missouri.  We 
staid  some  time  with  these  men,  then  proceeded  and  at 
night  encamped  on  a  willow  island. 

Thursday  11.  We  set  out  early;  and  had  a  cloudy 
morning,  and  light  showers  of  rain  during  the  forenoon. 
At  two  in  the  afternoon  we  stopped  to  hunt,  and  soon 
killed  two  deer  and  a  turkey ;  then  proceeded  on  and  at 
sunset  encamped  on  an  island. 

Friday  12.  The  morning  was  fine  and  we  again 
embarked  early.  In  half  an  hour  we  met  two  periogues 
going  up  to  trade;  staid  with  them  a  short  time  and  went 
on.  About  an  hour  after  we  met  with  a  Mr.  M'Clelland 
in  a  large  boat  with  twelve  men  going  up  to  trade  with 
the  Mahas.  Our  Commanding  Officers  were  acquainted 
with  Mr.  M'Clelland,  and  we  halted  and  remained  with 
him  all  day,  in  order  to  get  some  satisfactory  information 
from  him,  after  our  long  absence  from  the  United  States. 
He,  and  two  Frenchmen  who  were  with  him  had  several- 
ly instructions  from  the  government  to  make  inquiry 
after  our  party;  as  they  were  beginning  to  be  uneasy 
about  us. 

Saturday  13.  We  had  a  pleasant  morning  after  some 
rain  that  fell  yesterday,  and  again  proceeded  on  early 
with  unfavorable  wind.  At  10  o'clock  we  halted  to  hunt, 
staid  about  three  hours  and  killed  four  deer.  We  then 
continued  our  voyage  to  sunset  and  encamped.  We  had 
a  few  musketoes,  but  they  were  not  so  bad  as  we  had 
found  them  higher  up  the  river. 

Sunday  14.      In  a   fine   morning   we  proceeded   on 


AS  RELATED  BY  PATRICK  GASS.  237 

early  and  went  very  well,  until  3  o'clock  when  we  met 
three  large  batteaux  loaded  with  merchandize,  going  up 
to  different  nations  of  Indians  for  the  purpose  of  trade. 
The  people  in  them  were  very  glad  to  see  us,  and  gave  us 
some  whisky,  pork,  and  biscuit.  We  remained  with 
them  two  hours  and  again  went  on.  We  killed  five  deer 
on  the  bank  to-day  as  we  floated  down:  and  saw  a  fine 
young  horse.  At  sunset  we  encamped  on  a  small  island. 

Monday  15.  The  morning  was  pleasant  and  we 
embarked  early.  In  a  short  time  we  killed  a  fine  large 
elk ;  at  1 1  o'clock  passed  the  Kenzon  river,  and  encamp- 
ed at  sunset. 

Tuesday  16.  This  was  another  pleasant  day.  We 
proceeded  on  early,  and  at  9  o'clock  met  a  large  periogue 
with  eight  men,  going  to  trade  with  the  Ponis  nation  of 
Indians  on  the  river  Platte  about  seventy  or  eighty  miles 
from  its  mouth.  At  11  o'clock  we  met  a  batteaux  and 
two  canoes  going  up  to  the  Kanowas  nation,  who  live  on 
a  river  of  the  same  name.  We  halted  with  them  awhile, 
then  proceeded  on,  and  at  sunset  encamped  on  an  island. 

Wednesday  17.  We  went  on  early  and  had  a  plea- 
sant day,  but  very  warm.  One  of  party  last  night 
caught  a  large  catfish,  supposad  to  weigh  100  pounds. 
We  got  a  great  many  papaws  on  our  way  to  day:  a  kind 
of  fruit  in  great  abundance  on  the  Missouri  from  the 
river  Platte  to  its  mouth;  and  also  down  the  Mississippi. 
About  11  o'clock  we  passed  through  a  bad  part  of  the 
river,  where  it  was  so  filled  with  sawyers  that  we  could 
hardly  find  room  to  pass  through  safe.  About  two  in 
the  afternoon  we  met  a  large  keel-boat,  commanded  by 
a  Captain  M'Clanen,  loaded  with  Merchandize  and  bound 
to  the  Spanish  country  by  way  of  the  river  Platte.  He 
intended  to  go  by  land  across  the  mountain,  and  get  the 
Spaniards  to  bring  their  gold  and  silver  on  this  side, 
where  he  could  take  his  goods  and  trade  with  them, 
had  fifteen  hands,  an  interpreter  and  a  black.  He 
intends  to  discharge  his  men  on  this  side  of  the  mountain, 
and  to  get  some  of  the  Ponis,  who  live  on  the  river  Platte 
to  accompany  him  to  the  Spanish  country.  Mr.  M'Clan- 
en gave  all  our  party  as  much  whisky  as  they  could 


238  JOURNAL  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE 

drink,  and  a  bag  of  biscuit.  Some  of  the  men  were  sent 
on  ahead  in  two  small  canoes  to  hunt,  and  we  encamped 
here  for  the  night. 

Thursday  18.  We  gave  Mr.  M'Clanen  a  keg  of  corn; 
took  our  leave  of  him  and  proceeded  on.  In  a  short  time, 
passed  the  mouth  of  the  river  Grande,  and  soon  after 
overtook  the  hunters,  who  had  not  killed  any  thing. 
We  continued  our  voyage  all  day  without  waiting  to 
hunt;  gathering  some  papaws  on  the  shores,  and  in  the 
evening  encamped  on  an  island. 

The  19th,  was  a  fine  day,  and  at  day  light  we  contin- 
ued our  voyage ;  passed  the  mouth  of  Mine  river:  Saw 
several  turkeys  on  the  shores,  but  did  not  delay  a  moment 
to  hunt;  being  so  anxious  to  reach  St.  Louis,  where  with- 
out any  important  occurrence,  we  arrived *on  the  23d 
and  were  received  with  great  kindness  and  marks  of 
friendship  by  the  inhabitants,  after  an  absence  of  two 
years,  four  months  and  ten  days. 


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